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In this exclusive interview, we caught up with Brian Ecclefield, the Founder of  Validated Claim Support, who shares his thoughts and insights into the testing market, harmoniziation and disruptive trends as well as a secret very few people know…

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Sunscreen is exploding currently. Can you share some insights into what is going on in the field, especially with regards to testing and perhaps the role retailers and influencers are playing?

Exploding is a great adjective here, as that is exactly what sunscreen is doing at the moment.  There are numerous articles regarding underperforming sunscreens on the market, and social media is volatile with back and forth assertations and allegations.  

The global market has had a major push towards “Mineral Sunscreens” which means those which contain only Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  “Organic SPF Filters” have been somewhat vilified in a variety of markets due to their potential for degradation and interaction with the human body and the environment as a whole (as an easy example think “Reef Safe”).  

From a chemistry perspective, “Organic” or “Chemical” sunscreen filters are extremely effective and often backed by decades of bioavailability and safety studies at the global level.  Zinc and Titanium tend to have a fairly limited “efficacy range,” and only in the best formulations at extremely high quantities can the two ingredients successfully achieve water resistant SPF 50+ results. 

That said, they seem to be the two ingredients that find their way into the newest formulations, particularly within the US Market which has extremely limited filter choices due to FDA (over) regulation of the space.

With so much regulatory scrutiny and consumer skepticism, what does the future hold for cosmetic claims? Global harmonization in claims acceptability?

The market at large is currently “adapting” to push the boundaries of these “mineral” filters as far as possible, and that is often being done with “SPF Boosters” such as Butyloctyl Salicylate (BOS).

SPF Boosters are “quasi-regulated” and they do not have to appear in the “Active Ingredients” section of a sunscreen’s label despite the fact that they have a clear and direct impact upon the final SPF (the same formula with and without BOS will have a higher SPF once the BOS is added). 

Until regulatory can catch up with the “booster trend” consumers need to stay wary of “100% Mineral” SPF Label Claims, as they may be misleading since there are non mineral ingredients impacting the formula.  Chemically, BOS is very similar to Octisalate, which is an approved SPF active ingredient in most markets.

Regulatory needs to make decisions as to “inactive ingredients that are impacting the formulations performance” (which sounds to me like the definition of an “Active Ingredient!!!!!”). 

Unfortunately this will likely not be done in a “harmonized” manner as you have noted.  The EU and the US tend to go their own ways on Sunscreen and Cosmetic Regulation, and for a while with the MoCRA initiative in the US it looked like we could have moved towards some harmonization, however the current administration is in the process of “doing something serious” at the FDA. 

I think a good place to start would be “action” in the local regulatory zones which is decisive and complete.  As an example – ISO is working towards new international standards for hybrid in vivo/in vitro SPF results.  This would be a huge boon for consumer safety and testing ethics as participants would be receiving 95% or more of a reduction in delivered radiation during the efficacy/performance tests.  

 

In your opinion, what disruptive trends or technology in efficacy will render today’s methodology obsolete five or ten years down the line? 

I just mentioned the “Hybrid SPF Testing” element, which is fully known as Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy or HDRS.  Without getting into the deep science, this method will allow a much faster and safer SPF evaluation that doesn’t require directly sunburning the participants.  

This method is going to absolutely revolutionise clinical testing and claims, as for the first time it directly combines both in vivo UVB considerations as well as combining the reflectance technique which will provide insights that can’t be recognized through changes of the skin alone.  

This new method could* lead to the harmonization that you alluded to in question 3 – if we can get a formal, adopted, and approved method through ISO and FDA it will revolutionise the industry, making these tests faster and more efficient.  It will take away a lot of the variables that make the current test models so difficult, as there is no longer going to be a “subjective” assessment of the redness in the skin.  

Sunscreen testing will be utterly revolutionised – and it will actually become a much easier test to implement.  This will open up the competition and allow more players to compete in a healthy manner within the extremely niche claims and efficacy space, and it will also allow brands to conduct more of their own internal preliminary pilot research.

Can you share a secret about cosmetic testing very few people know?

Suncreen testing involves actively dosing people with UV radiation to a point where you illicit a redness response on the skin of the back.  Dumbing that down – it requires lightly sunburning 10 (and often more) people at a time.

These people also have to have a fair complexion, so sunscreen testing in upon itself is often only done on light skinned individuals.  If you see a product with an SPF that says it was “tested on all skintypes” it is definitely not talking about Fitzpatrick types, at least as far as the direct SPF efficacy is concerned.

A related one based on the above – “tested on all skintypes” OR “suitable for all skintypes” can actually mean 2 very different things.  It can mean that a product is tested on all of the Fitzpatrick skintypes, with Skintype I being the lightest and Skintype VI being the darkest, but it can also mean it is tested on a population where at least some of the individuals identify as “oily, dry, and/or combination skin.” 

 

This is a very common claim, and it’s  just about impossible to determine what categorization of “skin types” that the brand is referring to regarding the specific product data without having the test results in hand.

About our Interviewee: Brian Ecclefield, Founder, Validated Claim Support

Brian has spent the last 17 years custom developing in vivo clinical studies to help international brands build their personal care and cosmetic product portfolios. 

In 2018, he founded Validated Claim Support in the Testing, Inspection, Certification, and Compliance (TICC) space as an alternative to the “CRO Status Quo,” offering an ethical, transparent, and technologically secured solution for the modern Personal Care manufacturer.

Brian is heavily involved with consumer education and protection as it pertains to product label claims.  He has helped poke holes in misguided marketing language as an Expert Witness for cosmetic ingredients. 

By ensuring that end users gain a better understanding about what cosmetic and personal care claims actually mean and the value of doing studies the right way, Brian hopes to help make skincare clinical testing more transparent and CROs more accountable – leaving the industry a safer place for everyone.

Validated specializes in 4 main types of clinical testing to support claims:

• Expert Objective Clinical Grading
• Subjective User Perception
• Biophysical Instrumentation
• Clinical Before and After Photography

Onto the product/service we provide:

Validated Claim Support is a Skincare Clinical Testing Laboratory that conducts in-vivo (consumer/human) studies to determine how well products work.  We are decidedly “clinically” focused – we don’t do stand alone at home consumer perception studies, and our expertise is measurable endpoints – think clinical studies where participants, not @ home user consumer perception.

We conduct Expert Grading of visible changes in the skin and hair, biophysical instrumentation for things like hydration via electroconductivity, skin firmness and elasticity, surface sebum content, skin colour, skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and a wide range of other endpoint as well.

We test skincare, medical devices, OTC level ingredients, and a wide range of cosmetics (we also get into nutraceuticals but that’s less directly relevant). We’re FDA Registered and Inspected, and we ran over 70 completely custom clinical studies last year – many of which were for brands who you’ve already hosted. 

I founded VCS in 2018 as an “Alternative to the CRO (Clinical Research Organization) Status Quo” after having left two different laboratories over what I’ll call “unreconcilable ethical differences,” which proved to be extremely well founded. 

The owners of both companies have been in international news for fraud, and from my perspective, there is a very good reason.  I can tell you this, with 100% certainty. . . Skincare claims data that looks too good to be true is most definitely too good to be true!  That’s not to say that there aren’t highly effective products out there, but nothing is 100% effective 100% of the time.  This is a whole exciting topic in upon itself, and I’d be happy to chat more about it at a later time. 

Find out more about Validated Claim Support here

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical!

Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vyrtus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy with speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

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How does Catalynt align with the growing demand for sun protection and skincare innovation?

Catalynt supports personal care and cosmetics innovation by offering chemistries that help formulators meet performance, sensory, and regulatory demands.

From globally approved UV filters and multifunctional esters to preservatives, emulsifiers, and stabilizers, we provide the building blocks that enhance efficacy and elevate user experience.

As a woman-owned company with deep personal care expertise, we help brands stay agile and ahead by delivering quality ingredients, market intelligence, and nimble solutions that keep pace with consumer expectations for safety, sustainability, and skin health.

How are you addressing global chain instability and supply chain risks?

In a volatile world, Catalynt stands out for its proactive and transparent sourcing model. We maintain strategic relationships with vetted global producers and offer US-based stocking, custom blending, repackaging, and QC services to localize supply and reduce risk.

Our agile logistics team actively monitors tariffs, trade flows, and inventory positions, so customers can count on continuity. Whether managing REACH restrictions or port disruptions, we partner closely with personal care brands to anticipate challenges and create flexible pathways forward. Our goal is to help customers build resilience while navigating uncertainty.

What role does Catalynt play in the trend toward formulation flexibility and customization?

Catalynt enables flexibility by offering a curated portfolio of esters, emollients, thickeners, UV actives, and multifunctionals, along with secondary and tertiary sources already vetted and approved in collaboration with customer labs.

We provide rapid access to samples, technical data, and compliance documents to accelerate development timelines. For brands seeking differentiation, we also support custom blending and sourcing to meet unique performance or regulatory goals.

Our hands-on approach helps formulators bring innovative, inclusive products to market faster, with greater control and confidence.

Find out more about Catalynt here

About our Interviewee: Jennifer A.Calvery, Vice President of Marketing & Business Development, Catalynt

In her role, Jennifer unifies sales, business development, compliance, and tech by blending creativity with process thinking. As Director of Marketing & Business Development,  she crafts strategy, manages the brand, and drives growth through cross-functional collaboration, campaigns, and execution.

More about Jennifer A. Calvery

Feeling inspired

In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty, few terms have generated as much recent intrigue as exosomes.

Once limited to regenerative medicine, these nano-sized messengers derived from cellular processes have made their way from aesthetic clinics to one of the most discussed developments in skincare, promising to enhance skin longevity.

At this year’s in-cosmetics Global, several exhibitors notably unveiled exosome and exosome-like innovations, highlighting the growing momentum and diverse applications that are fascinating formulators and manufacturers.

Although exosomes offer advanced solutions, they remain widely misunderstood due to marketing ambiguity, regulatory grey areas and a lack of consumer education about what they truly are and how they work.

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are nanosized (30-150 nm), naturally occurring lipid-encased particles secreted by nearly all cell types in our body, including stem cells.

They are one of two primary types of extracellular vesicles (EVs), the other being ectosomes. Exosomes originate inside the cell and are released into the extracellular environment through exocytosis.

Once thought to be mere cellular debris, these vesicles carry biological material like proteins, lipids, growth factors and genetic material from one cell to another, altering the behaviour and fate of recipient cells.

They’re not living cells like stem cells but naturally function as delivery systems and are now understood to play a crucial role in intercellular communication by modulating immune responses, promoting recovery and regulating inflammation.

A single exosome can carry hundreds to thousands of unique combinations of material inside that reflect the identity and current state of its parent cell. As a result, its molecular payload varies and adapts to the cell’s environment, almost like a tailored response to the body’s needs.

When were exosomes first discovered?

While extracellular vesicles (EVs) were studied as early as the 1950s, the term exosomes was first introduced in the 1980s during studies on reticulocytes (maturing red blood cells), where they were initially observed as vesicles facilitating the removal of obsolete cellular components.

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that immunological research in the US and Europe highlighted their regenerative role as key intercellular communicators.

This sparked interest in Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs)-derived exosomes (from bone marrow) which were shown to aid tissue repair, modulate inflammation and influence fibroblast activity.

By the mid-2010s, thanks to their progressive regulatory landscape South Korea emerged as a global leader in exosome research and development (R&D), particularly in post-laser care, microneedling and many K-beauty products like ampoules and serums.

Today, exosomes are bridging regenerative medicine and advanced skincare delivery systems for their ability to deliver functional molecules with targeted precision.

Where are exosomes sourced from?

Exosomes can be sourced from a diverse range of cells such as human, animal, plant, algae and bacteria cells.

In skincare, due to ethical considerations and regulations they are not extracted from live organisms but instead harvested from cell cultures, such as stem cell–conditioned media, freeze-dried vesicle fragment or plant tissue.

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), often derived from bone marrow, umbilical cord, or adipose tissue produce exosomes rich in growth factors and cytokines that promote skin regeneration.

Regulations in the UK, EU and US currently classify exosomes from these sources as biologicals or drugs if they contain human-derived material, restricting their use in skincare.

Plant-derived (e.g. grape, ginger), milk-derived or probiotic vesicles such as those from Lactobacillus spp. often considered lysates, are being marketed as phyto-exosomes, biosomes or nanoparticles to mimic exosome functions.

These offer more accessible, regulatory accepted, stable, halal and vegan-friendly options for formulators.

Market potential

The global exosomes skincare market is projected to grow from $417.8 million in 2025 to $809.5 million by 2032, with a CAGR of 9.9% (Coherent Market Insights).

This rapid expansion is being driven by consumer demand for regenerative, non-invasive skincare and major R&D investment in biotechnology with Asia-Pacific and North America leading market share.

Skincare science (and limitations)

Exosomes are being increasingly used in skin formulations for accelerating regeneration, supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and promoting collagen synthesis.

In most regulated markets, only non-viable, well characterised and highly purified sources often derived from fermentation or plant origin are permitted.

For formulators and manufacturers, working with exosomes offers exciting potential but also complexity.

Exosomes are highly sensitive to temperature, pH and oxidation making them unstable in conventional emulsions or serums unless stabilised and without proper extraction and delivery methods their benefits are often overestimated.

Many products may not contain viable or functional vesicles by the time they reach the skin. This also presents challenges in ensuring exosome viability throughout manufacturing and shelf life.

The lack of globally accepted standards makes it difficult to confirm presence, purity or dosage, raising concern over efficacy claims they are often marketed for.

To address these limitations alongside regulatory and ethical concerns, formulators are exploring exosome-like alternatives like technologies, synthetic vesicles or engineered peptides- designed to mimic the delivery function of natural exosomes without relying on biologically derived materials.

While not identical in structure or origin, these exosome-like ingredients aim to achieve similar goals; delivering active ingredients deeper into the skin and modulating cellular behaviour.

Importantly, these alternatives offer greater consistency, improved safety profiles and clearer regulatory pathways.

According to recent market data, plant-derived exosome-like products currently make up 39% of the category, largely due to their regulatory accessibility and consumer preference for ethical sourcing.

Marketing transparency

One of the biggest challenges facing exosome skincare is the widespread marketing ambiguity surrounding the term itself ‘exosome’.

Many consumers and even some brands don’t understand what exosomes truly are or confuse them with other technologies.

The term is often used loosely, often without clarifying the source, type or function of the vesicles included in the product.

In some cases, formulations may not contain intact or viable exosomes at all, only lysates, conditioned media or plant-derived mimetics and yet still carry the same regenerative claims.

Without clear labelling or scientific substantiation, consumers are left to navigate vague promises that often suggest stem cell benefits without regulatory backing.

This blurring of definitions dilutes credibility, misinforms users and undermines the truly advanced science behind authentic exosomes.

Regulatory concerns

Currently the most pressing issues surrounding exosome use in skincare is regulatory oversight or lack thereof.

To date, no cosmetic regulatory authority has formally approved human-derived exosomes, especially those from embryonic or foetal stem cells which are classified as biological medicinal products (biologics) or cell-based therapies and not cosmetics (skincare).

Without rigorous purification and documentation, their use in cosmetics is restricted and/ or prohibited across regions such as the UK, EU, US, Canada, South Korea, Japan and Australia.

What makes it even harder is the lack of quality standards as there’s currently no global benchmark for verifying exosome concentration, purity or functionality in skincare.

As a result, many products may list exosomes on the label without containing functionally active material or clearly specifying their source, type or purpose. Standardisation, origin traceability and transparent labelling are essential to build consumer trust and scientific credibility.

This is why formulators are turning to safer, more transparent options like plant- or probiotic-derived alternatives, which are easier to regulate and formulate.

Final thoughts

Exosomes are a fascinating breakthrough at the intersection of biology, biotechnology and skincare.

While they’ve shown therapeutic potential, exosomes are still largely in the research phase and most supporting evidence demonstrating their skin-related benefits are limited (lab-based cell culture) or animal model studies.

Human clinical trials (in-vivo) remain scarce, mostly investigating wound or scar healing, highlighting an opportunity for innovators to lead with science.

While true exosomes are still in regulatory limbo, exosome-like systems offer a promising alternative, particularly those that are more stable, scalable and aligned with consumer values.

Did you know that there will be a special focus on Biotech Beauty at in-cosmetics Asia this year?

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

References

Mendt, M., Kamerkar, S., & Alt, E. (2019). MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative therapy and beyond. Frontiers in Cell and Developmental Biology

Phinney, D.G., & Pittenger, M.F. (2017). MSC-derived exosomes for cell-free therapy. Molecular Therapy

Alcayaga-Miranda, F., Cuenca, J., & Khoury, M. (2017). Harnessing the immunomodulatory properties of MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative medicine applications. Stem Cell Research & Therapy

Pan, B.T., Teng, K., Wu, C., Adam, M. and Johnstone, R.M., 1985. Electron microscopic evidence for externalization of the transferrin receptor in vesicular form in sheep reticulocytes. Journal of Cell Biology, 101(3), pp.942–948. doi:10.1083/jcb.101.3.942

Caplan AI. Mesenchymal stem cells. J Orthop Res. 1991;9:641–650. doi: 10.1002/jor.1100090504

Harding CV, Heuser JE, Stahl PD. Exosomes: looking back three decades and into the future. J Cell Biol. 2013 Feb 18;200(4):367-71. doi: 10.1083/jcb.201212113. Erratum in: J Cell Biol. 2013 Apr 29;201(3):485. PMID: 23420870; PMCID: PMC3575527

Charbord P. Bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells: historical overview and concepts. Hum Gene Ther. 2010 Sep;21(9):1045-56. doi: 10.1089/hum.2010.115. PMID: 20565251; PMCID: PMC4823383

Woith, E.; Fuhrmann, G.; Melzig, M.F. Extracellular Vesicles—Connecting Kingdoms. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019, 20, 5695. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20225695

Bin Zhang, Mei Wang, Aihua Gong, Xu Zhang, Xiaodan Wu, Yanhua Zhu, Hui Shi, Lijun Wu, Wei Zhu, Hui Qian, Wenrong Xu, HucMSC-Exosome Mediated-Wnt4 Signaling Is Required for Cutaneous Wound Healing, Stem Cells, Volume 33, Issue 7, July 2015, Pages 2158–2168, https://doi.org/10.1002/stem.1771

Kim YJ, Yoo SM, Park HH, Lim HJ, Kim YL, Lee S, Seo KW, Kang KS. Exosomes derived from human umbilical cord blood mesenchymal stem cells stimulates rejuvenation of human skin. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2017 Nov 18;493(2):1102-1108. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2017.09.056

Men in South Korea spend more on skincare per person than men anywhere else in the world.*

Male skincare in South Korea

South Korea is the world’s 10^th largest beauty market*, whilst men in South Korea spend more on skincare per person than their peers anywhere else in the world**. Driven by cultural norms and societal expectations, the segment is also boosted by the phenomenal marketing creativity of Korean brands.

Let’s find out more…

Culture and society

Confucian values associate a well-groomed appearance with professionalism but also success and respect. In South Korea, men’s skincare is normalised and men are indeed encouraged to adopt comprehensive skincare routines from hydration to gentle exfoliation and double cleansing.

With the influence of K-pop idols, actors, as well as influencers, projecting a flawless, youthful aesthetic male skincare is a must. Celebrities in South Korea, from Song Hye Kyo, a notable ambassador for Laneige and Sulwhasoo and Park Seo Joon, who is known for promoting brands like TIRTIR regularly endorse skincare and makeup products, making it socially acceptable for men.

Market and Industry Innovations

As a global leader in the skincare industry, South Korea is known for its advanced research and development and continuously innovates with progressive formulations, multi-functional products, and high-performance ingredients tailored to diverse skin concerns. According to Euromonitor International, the top five skincare concerns for men in South Korea are blemishes/ acne prone, followed by wrinkles, fine lines, acne pits and finally, blackheads.

From oil-controlling moisturizers to brightening serums, and lightweight sunscreens that suit male skin, which is generally thicker and more prone to excess sebum production, brands in Korea cater specifically to men by offering gender-targeted solutions.

The plethora of specialized products, combined with powerful marketing campaigns has powered sales of skincare among South Korean men. In fact, as the world’s foremost consumers per-capita of skincare products, Korean men spend four times more than Denmark, which is in second-place, according to Euromonitor International.

A daily skincare routine

Around the world, male skincare routines are often minimal. But in South Korea, men typically follow multi-step regimens. The routine incorporates cleansers, toners, serums, essences, moisturizers, and sunscreens. Sheet masks and anti-ageing treatments are also in regular use. Interestingly, these routines are instilled from a young age, which means that skincare is perceived as a necessary part of daily life rather than an occasional luxury.

The impact of technology and retail experience

E-commerce as well as tech-driven beauty solutions have also played a major part in Korean men’s increased spending on skincare. From AI-driven skin analysis to personalized skincare recommendations, and virtual consultations, men are offered tailored solutions for their skin concerns. Plus, South Korea’s vibrant retail environment enhances the skincare shopping experience. From immersive store layouts to free samples, and in-store skin assessments, skincare is both engaging and accessible to all.

Conclusion

Driven by necessity, K-beauty’s societal impact and aspiration, South Korea has successfully integrated skincare into daily life for men. For personal care creators, this market provides   invaluable insights into new product development, unique marketing strategies but also the future of male skincare across the world.

*Source: Euromonitor International
**Source: The BBC

To discover more about the Korean market and its opportunities, visit in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul on 2-4 July 2025.

Despite its abundance of local herbs, Thailand imports 90% of its personal care ingredients.*

Thailand’s heavy reliance on imported personal care ingredients

According to Science Direct, despite its rich biodiversity and abundance of local herbs, Thailand imports approximately 90% of its personal care ingredients. But why? From the country’s reliance on beauty and personal care regulations, technological limitations, consumer choices  and supply chain challenges, understanding these factors is crucial.

Let’s find out more…

Processing and refinement challenges

While Thailand is home to a vast array of medicinal and aromatic plants such as lemongrass, turmeric, pandan, and tamarind, it lacks the advanced infrastructure required to process these ingredients into high-quality cosmetic-grade extracts.

As a rule, global cosmetic formulations often demand standardized active ingredients with exact concentrations, purity, and stability, in many cases requirements that prove a challenge for Thailand’s raw ingredient processing industry.

With the trend for savvy consumers keen on science-backed beauty, the majority of multinational cosmetic brands expect to be supplied with highly refined and laboratory-tested ingredients that meet strict safety and efficacy standards.

Since Thailand’s extraction and refinement technology is not as sophisticated as that of leading Western nations like France, Germany or Switzerland and the likes of Japan, it is often more practical for manufacturers in Thailand to import ingredients that are already tested, certified, and formulation-ready.

Regulations and certification challenges

While Thailand has a flourishing herbal and natural beauty sector, many domestic ingredients lack the necessary international certifications necessary for large-scale use in premium cosmetic products.

For example, ECOCERT (for organic cosmetics) or COSMOS (for natural and organic personal care) require stringent documentation and testing. As many Thai suppliers struggle to meet these requirements, sourcing and importing certified ingredients rather than investing in developing a local supply chain proves more cost-effective for Thai brands to meet global standards.

Consumer choices and market needs

Traditionally, Thai consumers, especially those in the premium beauty segment, tend to associate imported ingredients from the West and Japan in particular, with higher expertise, quality and effectiveness. As a result, local consumers favour beauty products formulated with actives that have been sourced overseas such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, and retinol.

Even within Thailand’s blooming natural beauty sector, brands feel that they often need to highlight exotic botanicals that have been imported, such as Swiss edelweiss or Moroccan argan oil rather than locally available herbs. This preference further drives demand for  ingredients from overseas, even when local alternatives exist.

Supply chain and costs

The Thai beauty market is vibrant and very competitive, which means that local brands must balance cost-effectiveness with product performance. Sourcing ingredients locally saves costs but the lack of large-scale production facilities and extensive testing make it a challenge for manufacturers. Imported ingredients often come with established supplier reliability, quality assurance, and scalability, all of which are key factors for brands looking to produce high-performance cosmetics.

Conclusion

While Thailand boasts a wealth of natural resources, the industry’s demand for high-quality, standardized, and globally recognized personal care ingredients continues to push high import rates. For overseas personal care ingredient suppliers, this represents a significant opportunity to expand in the region.

*Source: www.sciencedirect.com

To discover more about the Thai and Asia Pacific market and its opportunities, visit in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok on 4-6 November 2025.

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Catalynt is proudly certified as a woman-owned supplier—But what does that mean for the industry?

Catalynt Solutions is more than just a certified woman-owned supplier; it is a driving force in shaping the chemical industry through leadership, innovation, and advocacy. Megan Gluth’s role in the Alliance for Chemical Distribution (ACD) is a testament to this commitment, as she actively helps businesses navigate the increasing complexity and challenges of the industry.

Catalynt’s leadership is exemplified by Megan’s historic position as the first woman on the ACD board, paving the way for greater diversity in industry governance. The company drives innovation by challenging the status quo and leveraging technology to enhance efficiency and transparency. Additionally, Meg is engaged in regulatory advocacy, lobbying for pro-business policies that foster growth and stability in the sector.

Leveraging its expertise in regulatory advocacy and active role in industry policy discussions, Catalynt has guided manufacturers through compliance hurdles by providing updated regulatory insights on restricted ingredients, recommending compliant alternatives, and facilitating supplier relationships to ensure long-term regulatory alignment.

As a result, manufacturers have successfully met compliance deadlines and avoided potential financial losses. Beyond regulatory guidance, Catalynt delivers tangible value to both customers and suppliers, offering high-quality ingredients, strategic market insights, and solutions that address evolving industry needs.

What sets Catalynt apart as a global supplier and manufacturer?

Catalynt operates at the intersection of distribution, sourcing, and manufacturing, combining global reach with localized expertise to navigate today’s increasingly complex supply chains. Here’s what distinguishes the company:

Multi-Region Sourcing Capabilities – With an extensive global supplier network, Catalynt ensures ingredient availability even when traditional supply routes face disruptions, mitigating risks for customers.

Regulatory Mastery – Whether navigating EU REACH, U.S. FDA regulations, or Asia-Pacific compliance standards, Catalynt provides fully vetted, compliant ingredients, ensuring seamless market entry.

Agility & Responsiveness – Catalynt quickly adapts to supply chain disruptions and regulatory changes, offering flexible, real-time solutions to meet customer demands.

By integrating these capabilities, Catalynt delivers a competitive edge to customers, ensuring reliability in an unpredictable marketplace. As an example, when manufacturing customers recently faced an ingredient shortage of a key ingredient used to stabilize their product, Catalynt provided alternative supply options that met both performance and regulatory requirements – as a result, the manufacturers avoided production delays, maintained consistent product availability, and strengthened their resistance to future disruptions.

How does Catalynt secure hard-to-source products and quality alternatives?

Catalynt’s strength lies in proactively identifying supply chain vulnerabilities and securing alternative solutions ahead of industry shortages.

One notable example is: Preservative Systems That Anticipate Regulatory Shifts.

1. Challenge: The EU’s scrutiny on phenoxyethanol meant many brands were caught off-guard, needing urgent preservative alternatives.
2. Solution: Catalynt partnered with suppliers offering multi-functional botanical extracts with antimicrobial properties, reducing the need for traditional preservatives.
3. Impact: Customers secured long-term stability in their formulations while aligning with consumer demand for “clean” beauty.

What are the emerging trends shaping the market in 2025 and beyond?

The personal care industry continues its evolution, driven by sustainability initiatives, regulatory tightening, and technological advancements. Based on Catalynt’s market intelligence, here are the most pressing trends:

(a) Regulations and technology
• The personal care industry must adapt to regulatory tightening, which continues to drive new technological innovations.
• Catalynt’s role: We are engaging directly with cosmetic chemists to support new product development by providing samples and documentation.

(b) Supply chain disruptions & regionalization
• Data Insight: According to the WTO, global chemical supply chains have experienced a 12% increase in lead times due to geopolitical instability and logistics bottlenecks.
• Industry Shift: Companies are shifting toward nearshoring and regional suppliers to reduce risks.
• Catalynt’s Role: We are proactively diversifying supply options to prevent disruptions before they happen.

(c) Sustainability & ethical sourcing
• Rising Demand for Carbon-Neutral Ingredients – Brands are moving toward biodegradable raw materials and requiring full carbon footprint transparency from suppliers.
• Ethical Palm Oil & Biotech Solutions – RSPO-certified ingredients are in higher demand, while biotech-derived actives (e.g., fermented ceramides, lab-grown collagen) are gaining traction.
• Catalynt’s Response: We are prioritizing partnerships with suppliers that provide verified ethical sourcing and carbon-neutral manufacturing.

Find out more about Catalynt here

About our Interviewee: Chris Karber, Vice President of Sales, Catalynt

As Vice President of Sales, Chris’s role is to lead and empower Catalynt’s national sales team by providing them with the tools, strategy, and support needed to drive growth. Chris focuses on optimizing sales processes, strengthening customer relationships, and ensuring that his team is equipped to deliver exceptional value to customers and suppliers.
More about Chris Karber.

On average, the cosmetics industry in Europe spends 5% of its annual turnover on R&D.*

Cosmetic R&D Investment in Europe

As a global leader in innovation, the European cosmetics industry invests approximately 5% of its annual turnover into R&D. This significant financial commitment is due to several key factors, from regulatory compliance to consumer demand for innovation, sustainability and fierce competition in the market.

Strict regulations

As the European cosmetics market is one of the most highly regulated worldwide, this entails significant R&D expenditure. The EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC No 1223/2009) lays out very stringent safety and efficacy standards, which in turns requires companies to rigorously test products before they are marketed to consumers. All ingredients must be assessed for potential risks, and safety evaluations are a must. This includes costly and time-consuming dermatological as well as toxicological assessments. By focusing on R&D, the reassurance for consumers is that compliance with these regulations will facilitate the reformulation of products should certain ingredients be restricted or banned.

Innovation and efficacy to the fore

Whether it is anti-ageing serums or microbiome-friendly skincare, the market demands science backed formulation and tangible evidence. Advanced R&D enables companies to explore new actives, delivery systems, and formulation techniques that improve product performance, texture, as well as their sensory appeal. With that in mind, clinical trials and in vitro studies play a crucial role in substantiating product claims, all of which help reinforce consumer trust and the credibility of brands.

Sustainability and ethics

Greener R&D is a compelling factor for the industry and consumers, whether developing biodegradable formulations, sustainable sourcing or reducing carbon footprints. Fifteen years on from the ban on animal testing in the EU, investment in alternative testing methods is the only way and this includes 3D skin models and AI-driven predictive toxicology. Furthermore, as consumers demand natural and organic ingredients, companies have to invest in research in order to maintain the stability and efficacy of their products while adhering to green chemistry and clean beauty standards.

Competition

In the highly competitive European market, industry goliaths like L’Oréal, Beiersdorf, and Unilever are now faced with increasing competition from innovative startups. The only way forward for both is to remain competitive by differentiating themselves with pioneering  research, using novel anti-ageing ingredients, enhancing skin barrier repair technology, or improving the shelf life of makeup products. Scientific advancements in biotechnology, nanotechnology, and dermatology are all contributing factors to continuous investment in R&D.

Digitalization and hyper personalisation

Advancements in AI, machine learning, and big data analytics are metamorphosing cosmetics R&D. Whether it is hyper personalised skincare solutions, virtual try-on technologies, and AI-driven diagnostic tools, they all require large investment. Skin-type based customization, genetics, and lifestyle are all growing trends and considerations and they demand complex R&D efforts to develop formulations for discerning consumers.

Conclusion

The European cosmetics industry’s 5% R&D investment underlines its commitment to safety, innovation and sustainability and also ensures it remains competitive. As regulatory pressures increase and consumer expectations intensify, R&D has a pivotal role to play for industry growth to ensure cosmetic products are not only appealing but also safe, ethical, and environmentally-sound.

*Source: Cosmeticseurope.eu

To discover more about the European – and global – market, visit in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam on 8-10 April 2025 or Paris on 14-16 April 2026

By: Covalo Team 

Exploring the power of the ocean

Beneath the shimmering surface of the vast oceans lies a treasure trove of transformative potential. In recent years, marine ingredients have emerged as an exciting frontier in beauty and wellness, sparking a movement that experts are calling “blue beauty“ – redefining how we think about skincare, sustainability, and scientific innovation.

Blue beauty is experiencing explosive growth, with the market for marine-based skincare ingredients projected to grow over the next 7 years, to USD 1162.73 million by 2032. Marine ingredients represent a breakthrough in cosmetic science: seaweeds that hydrate with evolutionary resilience, marine peptides that combat ageing, and extracts carrying the raw power of underwater ecosystems.

Yet, this exciting frontier comes with a critical responsibility. As companies invest further in marine biotechnology, the imperative of sustainable sourcing has never been more crucial. The same oceans that offer these miraculous ingredients are delicate ecosystems that demand our most thoughtful and respectful approach.

This article explores the marine heroes who are not just extracting ingredients, but pioneering practices that protect and preserve the incredible underwater world that is becoming our newest source of beauty and wellness innovation.

Marine innovation meets sustainable sourcing

Algae has emerged as the undisputed star of marine ingredients, according to Covalo’s platform data. In 2024, an impressive 5 of the top 20 best-performing ingredients on Covalo were algae-based, highlighting the profound potential of these marine organisms. What makes algae so remarkable is their incredibly rich nutrient profile – packed with vitamins and compounds that offer transformative benefits for skin health.

The true innovation lies not just in the ingredients themselves, but in how they are sourced. Seaweed farms have revolutionized marine ingredient production, creating a sustainable ecosystem that goes beyond simple extraction. Ingredients like fucoidan and alginate have become prized not only in personal care but also in medical applications. Even more exciting is the net-positive environmental impact of seaweed cultivation: these underwater farms actually release oxygen into the environment, actively reducing carbon footprints.

Marine collagen represents another breakthrough in sustainable marine ingredients. Derived from fish by-products – specifically the skin, bones, and scales that would otherwise be discarded – this ingredient is rich in the fast-absorbing Type I collagen, the same type most abundant in human skin, nails, and hair. By utilizing parts of fish that would typically be waste, the beauty industry has found an ingenious way to create valuable ingredients while simultaneously reducing potential environmental harm from overfishing.

These marine-derived ingredients symbolize more than just a trend. They represent a holistic approach to product development, where innovation meets environmental consciousness. Companies are no longer just extracting resources; they are actively contributing to a circular, sustainable ecosystem that respects and preserves marine biodiversity.

Who are the leading suppliers of marine ingredients?

Now that we have an overview of blue beauty and key innovations – let’s get into the suppliers and their ingredients! Below are the top suppliers leading the marine revolution and can see their in-cosmetics Global stand #s – in case you can pay them a visit in-person at the event!

Algaktiv

● Algaktiv are pioneers in the use of advanced marine biotechnology, leveraging microalgae’s unique resilience and bioactive compounds to deliver high-performance, sustainable ingredients.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: Algaktiv RetinART, Algaktiv Collage

ISS-Ínclita Seaweed Solutions

● Ínclita Seaweed Solutions is a Portuguese company that specializes in harnessing the power of sustainably sourced seaweed, transforming its rich bioactive compounds into innovative ingredients.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: newly launched InAlgae® LIT

Cobiosa

● Cobiosa harnesses marine biotechnology, using algae and seaweed extracts to create innovative ingredients for hydration and skin renewal. With more than 50 years of experience in personal care ingredients, they bring the best right from the ocean.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: HYDROTENSYL COMPLEX

CODIF Technologie Naturelle 

● CODIF unlocks the ocean’s potential through marine biotechnology, crafting eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients. Through their original supply methods, they are able to develop unique active ingredients with a reasonable sourcing approach.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: CYBRIGHT-G

Givaudan Active Beauty

● Givaudan’s blue biotechnology expertise focuses on exploring molecular treasures found within ocean ecosystems. In their dedicated marine research center located in Brittany, France, they develop cutting-edge technologies for cultivating microalgae and identifying unique molecules that offer exceptional skincare benefits.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: Mariliance, Hydrintense

Carbonwave

● By using upcycled Sargassum, Carbonwave transforms seaweed into sustainable, high-performance ingredients through marine biotechnology. Through this algae, they are able to prevent methane emissions for the decomposition process of the seaweed.
● Skincare Ingredients to know: Seabalance 2000

Embracing the ocean’s potential

As the demand for sustainable and innovative solutions grows, marine ingredients are taking centre stage in the cosmetics industry. From deep-sea algae to seaweed extracts, the ingredients developed by these suppliers are packed with bioactive compounds that provide unique benefits such as enhanced hydration, anti-ageing properties, and skin barrier protection.

With these innovative suppliers leading the charge, the future of beauty is firmly rooted in the power of the ocean, offering transformative, eco-friendly solutions for next-generation formulations.

Discover the top trending marine ingredients on Covalo for free here. 

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The blue beauty infatuation & marine players leading the way first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-blue-beauty-infatuation-marine-players-leading-the-way/feed/ 0 23018 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/pdrn/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/pdrn/#respond Fri, 21 Mar 2025 14:50:27 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22998 The global skincare market is embracing longevity-focused skincare, with some retailers worldwide introducing ‘slow-ageing’ corners. This shift signals a major move toward products that enhance skin function over time rather than offering temporary anti-ageing solutions.  The beauty industry consistently looks to South Korea for the latest skincare innovations, and as a product innovator, I do […]