Launching a new beauty brand is exhilarating yet challenging and whether you are a startup or a longstanding corporation the foundational process of brand development is important. This journey is no simple feat, yet if executed correctly, the results can bring success over the long run.

Drawing from experience in marketing product development and brand strategy, especially within the startup realm, it is clear that there’s a common tendency to rush towards the endpoint of success without properly laying down the groundwork from the start.

This article explores the process of aligning messaging and branding with products, using case studies of two diverse brands. These brands, though rooted in trending lifestyle, ingredients, and performance, faced challenges in communicating their intentions effectively to the consumer.

By incorporating key points into your messaging and branding strategies, you can effectively align products with the brand’s identity and connect with consumers at a more engaging level.

Case #1: Crafting a Compelling Brand Story for Mass Market Bath Products

Overview:

Creating a successful mass-market self-care collection involves more than just assembling products with a beautiful design and componentry. The collection necessitates a compelling backstory and concept to distinguish itself in a competitive market. Crafting a strong narrative with engaging stories for products, effectively helps brands connect with consumers.

Problem:

Despite offering a variety of bath product collections with appealing designs, Bath At Work (fictitious name) wanted to stand out on mass market retail shelves. Additionally, the brand sought to align with current wellness lifestyle trends. The setback was that the brand lacked a compelling narrative to captivate consumers interested in this lifestyle.

Solution:

To address these challenges, a comprehensive narrative was crafted. The bath collection stories highlighted the products and their usage through creating a personalized regimen.

• As a result, Bath at Work spoke specifically to the experience of product use and time of day to use each product including directions for specialized regimens.
• Ingredients were combined as blends throughout the collections to offer a “theme” supportive of wellbeing.
• The names of the collections were updated and categorized to speak more personally to the user and designed to communicate an enhancement of overall well-being with themes like “Good Night – Sweet Dreams” and “Wake-Up – It’s a New Day”.
• Additionally, Bath at Work prioritized sustainability by minimizing packaging waste and utilizing eco-friendly materials.

Case #1 learnings

Incorporating product benefits and personalization into a compelling narrative is crucial for creating a unique brand identity that resonates with consumers, especially in mass market. Brands can effectively differentiate themselves by highlighting experiential product usage and integrating themes that promote a specific lifestyle,

Case #2: Streamlining Brand Messaging for Clarity

Overview:

In the highly competitive market of today, many brands struggle to effectively convey their unique brand message. Despite having captivating backstories and diverse product lines designed to appeal to a wide range of consumers, brands often find it challenging to stand out amidst the overwhelming amount of messaging that they hope to communicate to their audience.

Problem:

“Elevate Well“ (fictitious name) faced challenges in effectively communicating the unique benefits of its brand and products to various consumer segments. Despite highlighting holistic ingredients, superior product performance, engaging experiential product use, clinical claims, and the founder’s expertise, the brand struggled to convey a clear message about its true offerings and its distinct position in the market.

Solution:

1. A thorough competitive research analysis was conducted to determine the brand’s positioning and product pricing relative to similar brands in the market.

• This research yielded valuable insights, identifying multiple areas for improving communication and whitespace opportunities where the brand could differentiate itself and connect more deeply with its target audience.
• The research also highlighted that the hero product had room for a price increase communicating the high-end value of the product and its positioning, placing it in-line with the competition.

2. Development of a brand deck, served as a comprehensive guide for maintaining consistent messaging across all social media platforms.

• This ensured that every communication channel, including social media and traditional marketing channels, conveyed a unified message about the brand.
• The target markets were clearly defined and supported by products and claims for those targets.

3. Focus on lifestyle and ingredient components created compelling and clearly defined product benefits per SKU.

• This messaging not only highlighted the brand’s wellbeing mission statement but also emphasized the essence and performance of the product experience in use.
• The ingredients and clinical claims were teased out and highlighted for consumers to visually evaluate product performance before purchase.

4. A strategic marketing calendar was crafted for “Elevate Well” to ensure consistent communication with users.

• By emphasizing clear and consistent communication going forward, the brand strengthened its connections with the audience. This approach also provided the marketing team with a clear snapshot of value-added opportunities for their customers throughout the year.

5. A revamp of the website and new visuals better highlighted the brand’s story and product offerings, improving user experience and driving engagement.

• Low-selling products were strategically removed from the site and the brand to streamline the product lineup and focus on core offerings, maximizing consumer appeal.
• A new brand icon was designed highlighting all of the benefits of the brand in one view and was utilized on the site offering a quick view image that communicates the brand positioning and product performance.

Learnings Case #2

Highlighting the challenges brands encounter in clearly communicating their unique value propositions amidst a crowded marketplace may require time and effort, but it is worthwhile.

Through meticulous research and strategic refinement, a brand with multiple messages can successfully streamline its communications, thereby enhancing credibility, trust, and targeted consumer appeal.

Both cases underscore the importance of prioritizing clarity, consistency, and differentiation in brand messaging and product development. By aligning these elements with consumer preferences and market trends, beauty brands can position themselves for long-term success and forge deeper connections with their target audience.

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Despite the ever present concern about the economy, American beauty consumers are spending more. They are spending more on prestige products and trading up. There’s a significant “premiumization” of what would normally be considered commodity products:  toothpaste (Aurezzi toothpaste & mouthwash $39 each), deodorants (LeLabo for $37) and household cleaning products.

Dr. Barbara Sturm, DedCool and Bath & Body Works are recent entries in this category. Unilever’s Dove just launched a collection of Plant Based Cleansing Bars in the premium space providing “a new standard for what consumers should expect from a premium bar—an elevated sensorial experience.” As the US accounts for about 25% of the global beauty market, what happens here is important to monitor.

Looking at a few numbers from 2023 (according to Circana), prestige beauty grew 14% to $31.7 billion.  The mass market gained 6%.  In general product categories, lip oils are strong, as is hand soap and scalp care.  Prestige fragrance grew 12% in a small, but star category. Prestige haircare grew 14%. Total US beauty grew 11% on a dollar basis.

Ironically, despite the strength of the prestige market, dupes remain important and compelling. While years ago the “copy” category stayed out of the lime light, brands today shout out their efforts and love flaunting their success stories on social media. E.L.F. has proudly made a name for itself in this category, providing quality “copies” of trending products for a fraction of the retail price.

Large beauty brands continue to search for acquisition opportunities that allow them to move into new spaces and find new customers. There have been several noteworthy acquisitions in recent months:

• Bridgepoint Capital purchased RoC Skincare.
• Shiseido purchased Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.
• E.L.F. Beauty purchased Naturium Skincare.
• Unilever acquired premium biotech hair care brand K18.
• Puig acquired Dr. Barbara Sturm Skincare.

While Bricks and Mortar retail is still recovering from Covid, finding its way back to health and trying to sort out how to improve the beauty consumer’s in-store experience, the category is showing signs of life.  It remains 75-85% (depending on the category) of the beauty business, a number we often forget with the double digit growth of online shopping in recent years (ecommerce in beauty grew 13.6% in 2023 according to Insider Intelligence).

We know brands perform better and sell more product when they are present in both channels:  online and in-store. For brands to really scale and build brand awareness, that Bricks and Mortar presence is crucial. Technology and AI are moving as fast as they can in the beauty category, but nothing compares to the experience of trying on a red lipstick or spritzing a fragrance in real life!

Social Media and influencers that populate it are major drivers in the US beauty landscape.  Two thirds of beauty shoppers say they turn to influencers to discover new products (Harvard Business School). One-third of beauty consumers interact with brands on social media.(Social Samosa). Four out of five beauty shoppers use Instagram daily (Harvard Business School).  Despite the controversy, the lack of regulatory oversight, and the constantly shifting landscape, the importance of this category in the beauty world cannot be overestimated.

Here’s a quick overview of some of the beauty trends that will impact consumer spending in the category in the US this year:

• The focus on sustainability is here to stay, but consumers won’t pay extra for it (despite what they say).
• Efficacy trumps “clean”. Science is critical and consumers recognize that.
• Premiumization in every category is happening. Despite concerns about the economy (and all the other worries consumers are tracking), beauty is an affordable luxury and a brief escape into self-indulgence.
• Hair and scalp care, niche fragrances, supplements and sexual wellness are categories of potential solid growth.

US consumers have started 2024 over indexing their spending on tech and devices and health and wellness. The beauty industry fits nicely into the second category.  We’re working on it, but we need to up our game in technology.  There’s a lot of it creeping into beauty, but most of it is clunky and awkward.  Lots of room for improvement here.

Our industry is off to a solid start in 2024. We have trained beauty consumers to be constantly on the alert for newness, innovation and bright shiny objects that may be little more than a facelift. The year is just getting started, but there appears to be a substantial quantity of all of these on the beauty horizon. I’m optimistic. Keep the young, upstart brands coming and the established, legacy brands re-inventing themselves. Let retailers continue to create new “experiences” to entice us inside. Who knows where social media will lead us next.  Yes, I’m optimistic.

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“The goal of marketing is to know and understand the customer so well that the product or service sells itself.” This quote from Peter Drucker inspired me to write this column. Drucker (1909-2005) was an Austrian business consultant and professor, writer and lawyer, considered the greatest management philosopher of the 20th century. He was the author of more than 35 books, and his ideas were decisive in the creation of the Modern Corporation. Drucker wrote multiple world-renowned works on topics related to the management of organizations, information systems and the knowledge society.

We live in the post-pandemic era and we are discovering the big changes in consumer behavior. Understanding these new features implies a significant challenge for companies and also brings great opportunities. Companies that can quickly adapt to these new dynamics will have an essential competitive advantage over others. For this, it is essential to know how the pandemic has influenced human behaviour. Next, we will see some examples of the characteristics of new consumers.

• Digital Mature: The pandemic accelerated the evolution of most of our actions to the online world. Brands experienced an increase in electronic purchases, in fact, it is estimated that electronic commerce advanced more than 10 years in just 90 days. The diversification of contact channels also advanced by giant steps, for example, it is estimated that in 2020 a third of customers contacted companies for the first time by message. Digital maturity continues and cosmetic companies have a great opportunity to continue offering digital innovations and experiences.

• Electronic Payment Lovers: We all have the experience of not wanting to touch physical money in the pandemic and after having to do so, we immediately reached for alcohol or washed our hands. The replacement of cash by electronic or digital means of payment is here to stay.

• Activist Consumer: Their objective is that the product they buy not only covers a need, but that both its production and its purchase are aligned with values, for example, environmental protection or the use of sustainable materials. Inclusion and respect for differences are highly valued by the new consumer in the cosmetic field.

• Intolerant of Waiting: New consumers have high expectations of fast and efficient services. Brands are creating and implementing new agile and secure service strategies. We see very interesting innovations thanks to artificial intelligence, such as chatbots. There are statistics that indicate that 32% of users who contact a brand through social networks expect a response in less than 30 minutes. Agility is the new black.

• Personalized Consumers: Today’s consumers value individuality and personalization. They want products and services tailored to their specific needs and preferences. Advances in technology, such as artificial intelligence and machine learning, have allowed companies to collect data and offer personalized experiences to their customers. These people appreciate attention to detail and expect unique treatment.

• Skeptical Consumer: They do not particularly enjoy the act of buying, so their decision will be very thoughtful and will require extensive prior research before opting for a product. They are people who read the labels, ingredient lists and look for comments (positive and negative) that users make on social networks. They investigate the meaning of ingredients, biochemical mechanisms, and cosmetic and dermatological terms on social networks.

• Optimistic Consumer: They trust that the purchase of a certain product will have a positive impact on their quality of life. They tend to seek balance in value for money, so they search and compare the available information before making a purchase. They are passionate about cosmetic brands, know and have experienced the benefits that the products offer them.

• The Fighters: These are those consumers who experienced financial insecurity during the pandemic and which continues today. In many countries there has been a boom in low-cost stores and white labels in the main supermarket stores, which are aimed at this segment.

• The Recovered: They are the consumers who suffered this same financial insecurity during the years of the pandemic but have returned to normality. They are characterized because they are now more cautious and careful with spending. Cosmetic products focused on “new luxury” concepts are ideal for these consumers.

• The Stable: These are the people who had no impact on their finances during the pandemic and have continued spending as usual. They are brand loyal and always eager to try new releases and benefits.

• The Prosperous: These are the consumers who saved money during the pandemic period and feel more financially secure than before the start of the pandemic.

• Experiential Consumers: Rather than simply purchasing products, many consumers seek unique and memorable experiences. This type of consumer values ​​experiences, such as trips, events, recreational activities, and gourmet meals. Millennials and Gen Z are especially prone to prioritizing experiences over acquiring material goods. On the other hand, the vast majority of consumers of cosmetic products are demanding new experiences and it is precisely in multi-sensory activation where cosmetic companies have great opportunities for innovation.

• Impulsive: As its name indicates, this type of consumer buys on impulse, unexpectedly and without prior notice. For example, when they are in line to pay at the supermarket checkout and take an additional product. They are consumers who are aware of the latest launches of cosmetic brands, they are the first to try new aromatic profiles in fragrances and new benefits and claims in skincare, personal care and makeup products.

• Kidults: The portal mercadonegro.pe presents an interesting definition of these consumers: “To be eternally children. Continuing to behave in some way like children is an increasingly popular way of coping with adult life. This segment is closely linked to being independent and authentic. The progressive disappearance of the stigma on child behavior in adults has contributed to this. In May 2022, a group that included former Disney CEO Bob Iger invested $263 million in Funko, a maker of dolls for adults. In addition, this lifestyle goes hand in hand with spontaneous and informal enjoyment without giving up the maturity that characterizes this stage of life. This way they can enjoy the best of both worlds at the same time, both being spontaneous and being more rational”.

• MaxMix: Extremes, very extremes, meet. The same previous portal explains this consumer like this: “Creativity and innovation have always had to do with the ability to combine things. Ideas, styles, flavors, but never like now. These mixes had been so extreme that they hadn’t even been that popular. We talk about mixing the old with the new, the luxurious with the popular, royalty with fast fashion, the expensive with the cheap. A combination of extremes that until now seemed impossible or dissonant, but that currently not only attract, but also work and are adopted by actors, models, singers and, of course, influencers. Royalty dresses in Zara and reggaeton singers in Gucci.” Without a doubt, a great inspiration for cosmetic brands.

• Comparative: Consumers who have this behavior are usually influenced by the price and features of the product or service. That is why they compare the same products that are from different brands to choose the one that best suits their needs.

Katherine Barchetti said: “Make a customer, not a sale.” Philip Kotler said: “If you create a romance with your clients, they will advertise you for themselves.” New cosmetic consumers are characterized by having a profile, being active, sharing their opinion on social networks, demanding benefits,  quality and results and can also easily follow or abandon the brands they consume.

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I recently read an article in the Spanish newspaper El País entitled: “The life and death of a trend”, which inspired me to write this column.

As many of you know, I quite enjoy writing about trends. We can find inspiration from many sources and sectors, such as food, fashion, cosmetics, technology, science, wine, medicine, research, entertainment… It is exciting when we start to discover trends and specially to project them in the cosmetics industry.

How do big companies and indie and niche brands create consistently successful products? How do they develop products, applications and services that no one thought would work? The answer lies in knowing how to read market trends to generate opportunities around them.

How can we define a trend? A trend is a social inclination towards a topic, behavior or product. A trend identifies upcoming social, cultural, environmental, aesthetic and other changes that influence society’s behaviour.

Yves Saint Laurent said many years ago that: “Trends disappear, style is eternal”… The reality is that trends are born, grow, reproduce and die. To describe this process, it is necessary to understand the genesis of trends. In general, we can describe it as follows:

Megatrends → Macrotrends → Microtrends → Mode

In the following, we will look at the definitions of each of these stages:

Pyramid of Trends

Megatrends: These are far-reaching, long-term changes that have a significant impact on multiple aspects of society, the economy and technology. These trends typically last a decade or more and have a global influence. Megatrends are based on fundamental changes in areas such as demographics, technology, environment, economics and politics. Examples of megatrends include rapid urbanization, population ageing, digitalization, sustainability and globalization.

Macro-trends: These are long-term changes that affect an industry, a specific sector or a geographic region. Unlike megatrends, macrotrends are more specific and focus on narrower areas. These trends may emerge as a result of megatrends, but their impact is observed on a smaller scale. For example, a macro-trend in the fashion industry could be the rise in demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. These can last for several years.

Microtrends: Micro-trends are short-term, smaller-scale changes occurring within a specific industry, market or community. These trends usually last for a shorter period of time and may be driven by changes in consumer tastes, preferences or behaviors. An example of a micro-trend might be the sudden popularity of a new mobile application. They are short-term or more limited in duration.

Mode: We have seen that a trend is created when a novelty begins to be adopted by a considerable group of consumers, which generates in the rest of the population the feeling that this trend must be adopted, then the trend becomes in mode when the large part of the population standardizes it.

The article in El País states that: “A trend dies when it ceases to be novel and becomes ubiquitous, when it ceases to be used by a minority of trendsetters and is adopted by the vast majority”. A trend is a fact of recent appearance, known to all and has a good reputation for a short period of time.

We can see the genesis of trends in one example. The megatrend is globalization. The macro-trend is the Asian influence on Western culture. The micro trend is the popularization of Asian food in American countries. The mode is sushi.

In cosmetics, we can say that, after a technological innovation or a novelty in consumer behavior, a trend can be born. Trend is the prelude to fashion. The trend is consolidated when a segment of the population adopts it massively, generating in consumers the feeling that this trend must be adopted.

Evolution and death of a trend

In summary, megatrends are the broadest and most enduring changes that affect the global level, macrotrends focus on more specific areas, and microtrends are short-term, smaller-scale changes in an industry or community. Each of these categories is used to understand and analyze different levels of change and trends in different contexts.

How can we predict trends? This can be challenging, as it involves anticipating changes in consumer tastes, preferences and behaviors. Here are some strategies we can follow to predict them:

• In-depth research: Conduct in-depth research on the area or industry of interest. Examine demographic data, market research, industry reports, analysis of past trends, scientific and technological developments and any other relevant sources. Understanding the current context and driving forces will help identify possible future directions.
• Observing cultural and social changes: Observing social media conversations, emerging cultural movements, changes in values and consumer demands. These factors can provide clues to the directions in which trends are moving.
• Megatrend analysis: Examine megatrends that are in play, such as technology, sustainability, urbanization, demographics, among others. These broad trends can provide clues to areas where more specific trends might emerge.
• Observing innovations and disruptors: Pay attention to innovations and disruptive companies that are emerging in the market. Technological advances, new ways of doing business and creative solutions can indicate emerging trends.
• Tracking opinion leaders and industry experts: Keeping track of what opinion leaders and experts in the area of interest are saying is important because they may have unique information and perspectives on future trends.
• Data and pattern analysis: Use data analysis tools to examine past patterns and trends. This can be useful to identify early signals and recurring patterns that may indicate future trends.
• Creative thinking and strategic vision: With all the collected information, we can connect the dots and formulate possible future scenarios. It is important to keep in mind that trend forecasting involves a certain degree of uncertainty, as the future is always unknown.

The world of trends is exciting and we can find inspiration in phrases from famous designers. Christian Dior said: “By being natural and sincere, one can create revolutions without having sought them out. John Galliano said: “Style is wearing an evening dress to McDonald’s and heels to football. It’s personality, confidence and seduction”…

The cosmetics industry is one of the fastest adopters, trendsetters and innovators. The challenge is for us to identify trends in time to surprise consumers. The signs are there, speaking to us. Just as some trends are born and die, the strongest trends can go in cycles and reinvent themselves after a number of generations. As actors in the beauty industry, we must know how to anticipate and put a differential touch to our creations.

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I am Colombian and a big fan of Karol G (@karolg). For readers who suddenly can’t locate Karol, she is a famous reggaeton singer from my country and has recently been a worldwide trend because with Shakira they released the song TQG (Te quedó grande), which has been a global phenomenon, reaching more than of 50 million reproductions in the first 24 hours, becoming number 2 of the global top of Spotify.

Given such a magnitude of success, the two artists have been invited to many interviews, reports, magazine covers, among others.

On April 6, Karol G published on her Instagram account a post related to a new report in a well-known Latin American magazine, where she had been invited to be the cover.

The post quickly became a global trend because the photo was too retouched and therefore, the artist indicated that the magazine cover had an image that did not represent her and literally expressed: “My face doesn’t look like that, my body doesn’t look like that and I feel very happy and comfortable with how I look currently. I appreciate this opportunity because I was very happy when they confirmed that I would be there, but despite making clear my disagreement with the number of edits they made to the photo, they did nothing about it, as if I needed all those changes to look good. I understand the repercussions that this can have, but beyond feeling that it is disrespectful to me, it is also to women who wake up every day looking to feel comfortable with ourselves despite society’s stereotypes. In a few days, the publication reached more than 6 million likes and hundreds of comments.

This year we have seen how real beauty is becoming a trend and episodes like Karol G’s, which have gained worldwide recognition in a few days, confirm it. Even Jamie Lee Curtis, who has been an Oscar winner, supported the artist’s comments, indicating that: “I am so happy that Karol G is raising awareness of a problem that has worried me for a long time … We are human beings, we are not AI”.

She also commented: “This genocide against what is naturally beautiful is alarming and needs to be talked about”, “I am very encouraged that a younger person joins the chorus of disapproval”.

The hashtag about real beauty is beginning to trend and gain popularity. On Instagram we can see it in different languages: #realbeauty – 462097 posts, #bellezareal – 76339 posts and #belezareal 172040 posts (in English, Spanish and Portuguese relatively), information revised on April 10.

In social networks, the issue of filters has reached an evolution that practically generates another identity. There are filters for everything, for hair color, with freckles, without freckles, old, young… and this is precisely where the issue of real beauty becomes relevant, because it is lost, it seems that many people live in a world where they want to be others.

Beauty is a universal right and in beauty there should be no stereotypes but rather an appreciation for diversity and this is a trend where cosmetics is its great ally. The human being is perfect in its essence. Four days after the publication of Karol G, CNN published a note titled: After the controversy over the editing of Karol G’s photographs: how far are the retouching necessary? How far should the editing of the images go?

Reviewing different posts on Instagram under the hashtag #realbeauty I found some very interesting and inspiring ones:

– “I reminded myself that being at war with your body is out of fashion. I am grateful for this body that allows me to do what I have to do”, Camila Cabello.

-“The beauty of a woman is not in her outward appearance, but in her soul and in the light that radiates from her”, Audrey Hepburn.

-“Many people think beauty lies in the looks. But the real beauty that makes someone stay with you lies in your heart”, Gauranga Das.

We see many very interesting examples that support real beauty in the market. For example, many brands are inviting plus-size models to participate in their concepts. The issue of enhancing frizz is now a big trend in Latin America and now it is a pride to be frizzy.

Skin tone is also a source of pride and that is why we now see how inclusion is generated from a biochemical and molecular level. In the anti-aging category there are thousands of opportunities, because it is not about turning back time, it is about accompanying our best version forever so that we look and feel good.

In this post-pandemic era, we have witnessed how the concept of beauty is becoming more and more linked to health. The idea of ​​well-being is the one that now dominates the main desires of consumers.

This week I also read a post on LinkedIn indicating that unfiltered beauty on social media is becoming more relevant as many agencies and brands are increasingly betting on untouched content. The article indicates that: “the new influencer marketing campaigns are investing in content without touch-ups or alterations. ¿The reason? They seek to combat the damage to mental health caused by social networks.

Let’s think about what Coco Chanel said so many years ago: “Beauty begins in the moment you decide to be yourself.” Innovation in the cosmetics industry is also focused on supporting real beauty. As a cosmetic chemist and formulator I am proud of all the work we do every day. Thousands of scientists in many countries are working hard to develop actives, technologies, excipients, formulas, products and evaluation methodologies that are going to have a great positive impact on the lives of so many people. This column is also a tribute to all of them.

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The global cosmetic market has a projected CAGR of 5.36% during the period 2022 – 2026. The truth is that our industry is very resilient. All human beings have rights to beauty and cosmetics and that is why this industry always has opportunities for growth even in difficult situations such as pandemics, wars, recession, inflation… Below we will see some of the most interesting trends that will be protagonists in 2023.

Un beauty espresso por favor!: The pandemic accelerated the back to basics trend, which is why in recent months we have seen a boom in traditional ingredients such as aloe vera, vitamin C, panthenol, AHAs, among others. This year the turn is for caffeine. We are seeing very interesting proposals from suppliers with new materials obtained through by-products and upcycling processes. Coffee is rich in antioxidants and the cosmetics industry is taking advantage of it. We are seeing a boom in many formats such as masks, scrubs, serums, and moisturizing and nourishing creams. Caffeine skincare is the new black.

Real skin: This trend is all about normalizing real skin. We are seeing trendy concepts like glass skin, dolphin skin and skin cycling that allow us to improve the way the skin looks and feels… but do we really know our skin? Consumers this year will work harder to understand what the skin needs to give it what it really requires. Real skin has textures, spots, pores, pimples. Real skin has imperfections. This concept is related to the inclusion and diversity trend.

Beard boom: In men’s grooming we are seeing a very interesting trend. On the one hand, this year products and procedures such as waxing, laser hair removal, electric razor and depilatory creams will be booming. On the other hand, projections indicate that beard growth products will have great growth this year. On TikTok, the videos related to this category have approximately 400 million views. The beard care market has a projected CAGR of 6.7% for the next 4 years. In summary, we can summarize the trend like this: beard, yes! body hair, no!

Psychobiotics: This term refers to the use of probiotics for mental health. This year we will see new studies on the use of probiotics in improving the gut-brain connection. In fact, the intestine is beginning to be known as “the second brain” due to the large number of nerve connections it has. The main nerve that connects the brain and the gut is called the vagus nerve, which is the main nerve of the parasympathetic nervous system and plays a key role in regulating mood, heart rate, digestion, and immunity. The cosmetics industry will benefit from new scientific findings, so we will also begin to better understand the gut – brain – skin relationship.

CosmeTikTok: This platform was consolidated in 2022 as the leader to lead fashion, beauty and cosmetic trends. Every brand dreams of going viral on TikTok. In this regard, the portal nextinbeautymag.com indicates that “the speed of creating trends on this platform has meant that the media have a monthly edition in which the most successful cases (and also the most absurd) of this social network are collected in the field of cosmetics and make-up. The term hype is part of the new branding and refers to when the displayed content goes viral and becomes popular.

Skin boosting: After skin cycling, this is the concept that is gaining ground in dermatology and cosmetics. As the skin begins to show signs of ageing, boosters are used to restore elasticity, restore skin texture and improve the overall appearance. This term has been growing on social networks since 2020. This trend invites us to follow a facial care routine in which we strengthen the skin by applying more powerful ingredients a couple of days a week.

Cloud skin: This has been a viral trend on TikTok in recent months. Its purpose is to leave a diffused, light and soft effect on the skin but with a bit of glow that emulates the reflection of the sky with sunlight. Experts recommend using products to hydrate and illuminate along with makeup that controls excess oil. There are neither very shiny nor very matt finishes, the objective is to achieve a balance between both. This is a concept where we will see innovation in formats, textures, benefits and claims.

Slugging: This is a concept that comes from Korea. It consists of the application of an occlusive product (oil or wax) on the skin to create a protective layer that seeks to prevent water loss as well as keep the skin hydrated and moisturized. This trend is not ideal for all skin types, so it should be tested on combination or dry skin. We are seeing the launch of new emollients and waxes with very interesting physicochemical and sensory benefits for the development of new textures that are ideal for the slugging concept.

Beautherapy: This year we will see the rise of beauty as therapy. This is the evolution of trends such as self-care and wellness. Consumers are increasingly concerned with improving mental health and well-being, therefore beauty is becoming a daily routine that has the ability to make us feel better. For this reason, we will see new biochemical mechanisms and cosmetic efficacy studies that validate the psychological benefits of using skincare, body care, hair care, fragrances, and makeup products.

Psychodermatology: In a publication on January 2, 2023, the Glamour magazine indicates that this discipline analyses how our thoughts affect the quality of our skin and is projected as one of the great trends for 2023. Science has demonstrated how stress affects metabolism and many of the diseases we commonly face. It has also shown how stress is responsible for countless ailments including rashes, swelling, and redness, along with skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea. The publication also indicates that “the link between mind and skin is well established and can be explained at the biochemical level through the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal (HPA) axis. Stress activates this system in the brain to release chemicals and hormones that can cause or drive skin diseases.” In the development of psychodermatology, cosmetics plays a very important role and will be its main ally. We will see a boom in biochemical mechanisms and new skincare actives with psycho-claims that will be a great novelty. We will also see new formats, emollients and textures that adapt to this new reality.

In times of uncertainty, financial insecurity, and war risks, consumers are looking for a sense of control. People are also looking for sources of entertainment that bring moments of relaxation, happiness, and tranquillity in their lives. Cosmetics play a fundamental role for human well-being and the industry has a great opportunity for innovation in these times of crisis.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, PhD CChem FRSC, Independent Consultant in Cosmetic Chemistry, is helping to curate the programme at this year’s Formulation Summit ahead of its return to London from 29-30 November 2021. Here, he shares his thoughts ahead of the event taking place next week shining a light on the process of choosing those all-important, hot topics for discussion.

For the last 18 months or so, Covid has affected pretty much every aspect of our lives. From social habits to ways of conducting businesses, we have adapted to what many have defined as the “new normal”.

Optimists have probably seen some positive sides, for example, a global decrease in air pollution due to travel bans and travel restrictions along with the opportunity to enjoy valuable family time during lockdowns. Others, maybe a little less of half-full-glass types, have pointed at shrinking economies, loss of jobs, and, more broadly speaking, the frailty of humankind.

The in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 2021 is a true reflection of how the beauty industry, always resourceful, innovative and driven by science, has responded and shaped to make the most of the current times to meet evolving consumer needs.

Attendees at the opening day of the Summit (29 November) will learn how the pandemic has changed both the industry and consumers’ behaviour. The humble soap bar and alcohol-based hand sanitisers have risen to the new role of “hero products”. In the first weeks of the pandemic, the demand for these goods skyrocketed, exposing supply chain weaknesses. Several manufacturers experienced never-before-seen shortages of vital raw materials, from ethanol to acrylic polymers. At the same time, questions emerged from a regulatory, safety and claims point of view.

The line between cosmetics, biocides, and sanitising agents became thinner than ever before, with too many self-appointed formulators jumping onto the bandwagon of hand hygiene and producing all sorts of remedies claiming an ability to kill the virus. For example, in some of the most concerning instances, hand-sanitisers were found to contain substances at levels greater than those imposed by European Regulations.

Speakers at this year’s Summit will address all the above and much more in what is going to be an interesting and inspiring debate. To conclude the day, we will also have an update on another important topic: Brexit. Here, industry experts will help our audience understand how it is affecting our industry.

Moving onto Day Two (30 November), the focus will shift towards sustainability and emotions. Sustainability has been at the core of our industry for many years. However, if not already evident from the changing climate, the pandemic has shown that the impact of human operations on the planet can be dramatic. From debunking the myths surrounding plastic materials to understanding more about the highly-debated palm oil, we will learn how cosmetic formulators and manufacturers can implement robust elements of sustainability across all aspects of the supply chain.

And, if we have realised how fragile life, in all its manifestations and nature are, then one cannot help but reckon that the pandemic has put an enormous strain on our emotions. Speakers will explore the effect of the use of beauty-care products on our emotions and how this can result in physical reactions, which then, in return, affects our mental health. From fragrances to make-up, we will hear that a more holistic approach to beauty and health is possibly the way forward.

For more information on the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 2021 and to register to attend,
visit: https://www.in-cosmetics.com/summit/en-gb.html

The market for cosmetic products for men has been affected by the pandemic for different reasons, mainly due to the closure of shops, beauty salons and working from home. One of the categories that has been affected the most was that of shaving products. This has been reflected in the increase in the consumption of other types of products, since staying at home has driven more awareness on self-care and more time to experiment with different products and routines. E-commerce, social media and influencers are also catalyzing the rise of certain products. The portal mordorintelligence.com indicates that the men’s grooming market was worth USD 55.22 billion in 2020 and has a projected CAGR of 4.29% for the period 2021 – 2026. Next, we will see some of the most representative trends in men’s grooming.

MANIS AND PEDIS: On the web, we can find tutorials on how to do these procedures from the comfort of our homes. We also see recommendations for products and routines. Manicure and pedicure at home is a great innovation opportunity for cosmetic companies. Men are increasingly concerned about the appearance and care of their nails.

INTIMATE HA: The badhombremagazine.com portal indicates that, although we live in a world that is increasingly open, there are topics that may still be taboo in our society, with aesthetic procedures for men being one of them. Facial care technology is also moving to treatments for the male intimate area and the goal is to make us feel better. Hyaluronic acid penis thickening is gaining popularity as it is a non-surgical, non-invasive procedure that can provide immediate benefits.

COWASHING: This is an interesting concept, as some men wash their hair every three days on average and are giving more attention to conditioner. We are seeing new formats and formulations of conditioners that also help to remove excess dirt and clean the hair.

BABY BUTTOCKS: One of the good things that the pandemic has brought to the category of men’s grooming is that men have had more time to take care of themselves and apply facial and body treatment therapies. Butt hair removal is trending in many of our countries and there are various treatments that men are becoming adept at, such as the use of depilatory creams, waxing, the shaving machine and laser hair removal. Other areas of interest, which are also in trend, are the shoulders, back, forehead and groin. There is a great opportunity to find powerful insights around this need, which allow the development of products with innovative concepts.

MANSCAPING: This is the term that refers to intimate hair removal and intimate hair care. We are seeing diversity in concepts and products such as specialized razors in this area, deodorants and waterproof underwear that reduce the risk of chafing. In this regard, the GQ magazine says in a recent note that men are more aware of their own personal hygiene and therefore are more focused on looking for suitable products and tools.

MESSY HAIR: One of the trends in hair cosmetics for men that is gaining strength this summer is messy hair. This look was popular a few years ago and it is important that the hair has a good texture and volume so that, when it is tousled, it looks good. The hair needs to be layered to have a good messy effect. Now that men are gradually returning to hairdressing and SPA, we see very interesting innovations to achieve these effects.

BROTOX: The applications of botulinum toxin in men continue to trend and derive new benefits, in addition to the treatment of wrinkles and gestural lines, such as the treatment of hyperhidrosis in the palms and hands. Integral Orofacial Harmonization is an interesting concept that seeks to find the best version of each man and that also takes advantage of the benefits of botox. The #babybotox is also in trend in millennials and centennials, which consists of the injection of botulinum toxin in microdoses to prevent the formation of expression lines in susceptible areas such as the brow, forehead and crow’s feet. Other complementary aesthetic procedures that remain in trend in times of pandemic are hair transplantation, laser resurfacing for acne and marks.

CHLOROPHYLL: Chlorophyll consumed orally and in cosmetic products has been a trendy topic on social networks. It has benefits for oily skin, acne and improvement of the appearance of blemishes. In the coming months, we will see very interesting launches of technologies for skincare, based on the benefits of this substance and derivatives, in fact, Chlorophyll-like can be a great opportunity to develop new innovative biochemical routes in facial care.

MASKCULINITY: Due to the pandemic, men have begun to love masks and are incorporating them into their facial care routines, once or twice a week. We are seeing very interesting products with claims related to radiance, purification, hydration, cleaning, matification, pores, clays, nutrition, refining, peeling, exfoliation, purification, firming, recovery, oil-control, renovation, among others.

COLOUR COSMETICS: The world’s first men’s makeup store – War Paint for Men – opened in London in July. In the store, we can find everything from bases, bronzers, to beard and eyebrow fillers. Founder Danny Gray mentions that he created the brand in response to his own experiences, about which he says: “When I was 15 years old and I started getting blemishes like most people, I went to see my sister and used her concealer, and it changed my life forever”. Gray has managed to see a connection between men’s makeup and mental health and is actually partnering with The Lions Barber Collective, a group of non-profit barbers trained in mental health support to help prevent male suicide. We are facing “The golden age of male makeup”, as indicated by a publication of the newspaper El Pais in Spain in July. This trend has been driven by social media and video calls, which make us more aware of our appearance. We are seeing innovations in formats such as blur stick, nail lacquers, eyeliner, tone unifying moisturizers, eyebrow pencil, concealer, bronzer, foundation, stick makeup, eyebrow and eyelash gel and primer among others.

REGI-MEN: The pandemic is making men start taking better care of their skin. Now we see the design of special routines for men’s facial care for the treatment of dark circles, wrinkles, spots, along with signs of fatigue and stress on the skin.

SKIN POSITIVE: This movement teaches us to love our blemished skin. Thanks to the pandemic, men have been able to understand more diverse ideals of beauty, knowing the reality beyond the perfect figures that we have followed for so long and above all, understanding that not everything we see on social networks is true. This movement aims to teach us to feel good about our skin imperfections, scars, pimples, blemishes, pores and wrinkles. #Skinpositivity is gaining more and more followers amongst influencers and celebrities. Reducing the effects of toxic masculinity in our perception is also beginning to be a trend and cosmetics play a fundamental role in this goal.

BLEACHING AT HOME: Tutorials to bleach hair at home are in trend, which is driven by celebrities, for example, David Beckham a few days ago posted a freshly bleached look on Instagram and his children Cruz and Romeo wore two shades of pink and emerald respectively.

GROIN GROOMING: Proper groin skincare is also on-trend, as, if not properly maintained, it can create conditions for the growth of bacteria and fungi. Sweat can cause groin itching, chafing, and strange odours. We are seeing very interesting innovations in this category, like moisture-wicking underwear, anti-chafing lotions that are interesting formulations because these creams have starch and soothing actives, starchy sprays that can be rubbed on the thighs and other places, electric pubic hair razors that are more delicate and prevent cuts, antimicrobial oils, wipes for the groin area, gels and soaps for the intimate area with prebiotic and postbiotic active ingredients and healing creams that relieve irritation, dryness and skin chafing.

MEN MASKNE: As we know, products and treatments to treat maskne are currently on the rise and this is also a problem that men are experiencing since male skin produces more sebum and has more open pores. We are looking at the market for specialized maskne treatment products for men.

CLEAN BEAUTY: In the market, we are seeing an increase in the demand for products in this concept, the consumer is looking for more natural, organic, cruelty-free and chemical-free products that can be harmful.

Clearly, the pandemic and the new reality in which we live in are driving some categories of male hygiene and beauty that undoubtedly represent a great opportunity for the development and transformation of the cosmetics industry. The possibilities are many and the investment is already generating profits for several brands. Is yours among them?

Read more market trends from John Jimenez:

• What are the latest Vegan Beauty trends and why are they on the rise?
  
• Biohacking and the new trends in cosmetics
  
• From Anti-Ageing to Pre-Ageing: The next beauty trend

(Sponsored content) By Evonik

Portfolio transformation towards quantified sustainable attributes is key for us. Closed product circles are difficult to achieve as most of the personal care products will still end up in the environment with or without treatment. Therefore, we are continuously working on ingredients with a low environmental burden during processing and application. On continuous basis we conduct lifecycle assessments of ingredients and make representative assessments of final consumer formulations to identify the most important levers and options to reduce carbon footprint along the value chain.

Using resources efficiently we place sustainability at the center of everything we do. From our sourcing, production and innovation processes, to capital expenditure and M&A decisions. All our activities which help keep us on the right path to achieving our sustainability vision consider the three pillars of sustainability: For us this means: planet, people and products.

PLANET

With these clear strategic ambitions, we can focus our work and better track our progress towards achieving these goals. But it also serves as a constant reminder that there is still a lot of work ahead. We are not there yet. For example, we are committed to achieving 50% carbon-neutral operations by 2025. But this is not enough, and we want all our operations to be carbon-neutral. We know this is a challenge, but we are ready and have set the target of achieving this by 2050. 

PEOPLE

As part of civil society, we assume sociopolitical responsibility that goes beyond our business and have introduced several programs to support this. As part of “Together for Sustainability” – a social and environmental assessment program within the chemical industry, we carry out continuous assessments at our own sites and those of our suppliers. 

PRODUCTS

Designing products for environmental compatibility is what the industry now need to work on, and the major prerequisite is to do so with transparency on product origin, constitution and efficiency. This is why we have launched the CAREtain® toolbox. It provides our customers with the most important characteristics that they need to evaluate and achieve their individual sustainability targets.  

Dialog across the value chain is key for the responsible production of personal care products. Please log in to Evonik’s intoBeauty® portal and use the information given as a starting point for quantification. We are keen to work with our customers to help them identify risk and leverage this knowledge to improve our common environmental impact.

Register for in-cosmetics Virtual to meet Evonik at their virtual stand.

 The sensorial question in cosmetic product development is an important theme that deserves attention because it determines the success of your formulation and brings more consumers to your brand. Sensory is as important a question as performance.

‘Sensorial’ can be understood as a characteristic that allows a connection between perception and the senses when the product is still in the pack, during the application and the after-feel sensation.

In cosmetic product development, the senses that are most commonly used are touch, smell and vision and they can be awakened mainly by the use of sensorial modifiers. All of the ingredients in a formula affect the sensorial qualities of the final product. However, we have specific ones that are able to provide different characteristics, such as silicon, powders, colouring agents, fragrances, thickening and rheology modifiers agents, emulsifiers, etc., and the main results that can be obtained are spreadability, consistency, odoring, colouring, softness, silkiness, etc.

Nowadays, it is possible to find studies that guide your purchase based on positive emotions aroused by the use of cosmetics. The sensorial impact in a final product gives the consumer a certain message from the brand, as well as the emotional aspects.

On the other hand, it is possible to improve the commercial value of the product by modifying its characteristics and turning it into a sophisticated cosmetic that will give a better impression of the results to the consumers.

Finally, the emphasis on the sensorial modification in cosmetics is the function of personalising the product and creating textures, aspects and flavours that please a cross-section of consumers. It is possible that not all types of consumers are interested in the same product since the sensory experience is unique and varies from person to person.

Other factors that can be worked out to attract the public is the marketing issue and how we can convey key product ideas, from the design of the pack to the fragrance. It is very common for the sensory aspect of a cosmetic to be worked on in a marketing proposal, and that its characteristics refer to its benefit explained in the label across aspects including nutrition, cushion sensation and more.

I will present all of the important topics involved in sensorial aspects to you at in-cosmetics Latin America 2018: the advantages in developing a good sensory profile; what you can bring to your consumers; the emotional factors involved in the sensory; the principal raw materials that enable the sensorial modification; and how to evaluate a sensorial in a cosmetic product.

In this lecture, there will have practical demonstrations that will show what the main ingredients can bring to benefits your formulation and the sensorial aspect to reach your consumer.

Cleber is a Technical Researcher at Vinia and will present ‘The various ways of impacting the sensory of cosmetic formulations’ at in-cosmetics Latin America on 19^th September from 13.15 to 13.45.

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