in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in the APAC region for personal care ingredients, came to a close on 9 November with record-breaking visitor numbers and 40% international attendance, compared to 32% last year.

Bringing together top-tier suppliers, creators, and thought leaders from around the world, the event marked a significant milestone attracting 11,772 unique visitors, an increase of 16% vs 2022.

Reflecting the industry’s eagerness to engage with the latest advancements and trends in the sector and make the most of what the show has to offer, repeat attendee numbers surged by a third (33%) year-on-year, reaching 17,615.

An international audience

Drawing a diverse and international audience, 40% of visitors hailed from outside Thailand – travelling from the wider Asia Pacific region and beyond – the highest in the Bangkok show’s history.

The exhibition welcomed multinational powerhouses and leading local brands such as Aesop, Amore Pacific, Beiersdorf, Boticario, Emami, Godrej, Himalaya Wellness, Kenvue, Meiyume, Unilever and Paragon to name but a few.

Against this backdrop, a record of 581 personal care ingredient exhibitors showcased their innovations at the event, a 40% rise on the previous year. Among these were industry giants and the world’s top 10 suppliers, BASF, Dow, Croda, Evonik, Solvay, Clariant, Ashland, Lubrizol, Momentive, and DSM-Firmenich underscoring the event’s standing as an essential platform for innovation in Asia Pacific.

A noteworthy 53% (310) of exhibitors stood out for their dedication to sustainability and contribution to the transformation of a greener industry.

Celebrating Asian excellence

Asian suppliers shone brightly at the show’s prestigious Awards, held on the afternoon of 8 November. Claiming 80% of the Spotlight On Formulation Awards, Soho Aneco Chemicals, Nippon Fine Chemical, and Ichimaru Pharcos were just some of the esteemed APAC companies who took home accolades, highlighting the region’s pivotal role in driving innovation and excellence.

Meanwhile, Immunight by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics earned Gold in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award (Actives Category) and Gattefossé’s Emulium Dermolea MB was awarded Gold in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award (Functional Category).

Educational sessions that resonate

Leading speakers and experts from the likes of Mintel, Euromonitor, and others delved into trends, regulations, and techniques offering attendees a comprehensive understanding of the evolving personal care landscape. Across a variety of Marketing Trends & Regulations sessions, Formulation Lab presentations, Technical Seminars, as well as Spotlight On Seminars, the following were particularly popular:

• ‘Unlocking Southeast Asia’s beauty product shopping trends: The rise of e-commerce‘ by Vishnu Vardhan, Research Manager, Euromonitor International.
• ‘Understanding Gen Z: Beauty’s shapeshifters’ by Sienna Piccioni, Head of Beauty, WGSN
• ‘Beauty and personal care trends 2024: South APAC – Unlocking the future of beauty’ by Kinshen Chan, Senior Beauty & Personal Care Analyst, Mintel
• ‘O/W waterproof mineral sunscreen with biodegradable emulsifier’ by Haruna Sawaguchi, Formulation Development Group, Nikko Chemicals
• ‘How to enhance your V-neckline beauty’ by Ivan Marcos, Sales Manager – APAC, LipoTrue
• ‘Biomimetics: Unveiling the future of bio-tech beauty’ by Carmen Gutierrez, Global Technical Specialist, IMCD Beauty & Personal Care, IMCD
• ‘Sustainable haircare collection’ by Pornpan Singhapantu, Associate Technical Service & Development Scientist, Dow Company

The Spotlight On showcase placed significant emphasis on sustainability and haircare, reflecting the industry’s growing commitment to eco-friendly practices. In addition to the display of ingredients aligning with these themes, an open theatre was introduced to give attendees the opportunity to enhance their understanding by combining the visual experience of exploring formulated ingredients with attending the informative seminars.

Notable sessions included ‘Instant crush: Natural silicone identical haircare active with 5 benefits’ from Simge Gürsoy, Technical Marketing & Sales Specialist, Normactive and a keynote on ‘Green chemistry method for haircare’ from Joonho Choi, Ph.D., Researcher & Pharmacist, Material Research Lab, AmorePacific R&D Unit.

Innovation Zone

The highly anticipated Innovation Zone once again served as the hub for new product development, showcasing 87 cutting-edge ingredients launched within the last eight months from the likes of Ashland, BASF, Dow, Galaxy Surfactants, Lubrizol amongst others. The renowned Zone provided a comprehensive overview of the industry’s latest advancements with a particular emphasis on skincare, suncare, haircare, and decoratives.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director of in-cosmetics Asia commented: “The event has once again proven itself to be the epicentre of creativity, collaboration, and inspiration within the APAC beauty and personal care ingredients sector. The record-breaking number of international visitors and exhibitors, and the outstanding performance by Asian suppliers, continue to cement the event’s standing as a focal point for beauty professionals. We’re proud to have created a platform that not only celebrates achievements but also propels the industry towards a more innovative and sustainable future.”

in-cosmetics Asia returns to the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC) on 5-7 November 2024. For more information, please visit the website.

ENDS

About RX (Reed Exhibitions)  

RX is in the business of building businesses for individuals, communities and organisations. We elevate the power of face-to-face events by combining data and digital products to help customers learn about markets, source products and complete transactions at approximately 400 events in 22 countries across 42 industry sectors. RX is passionate about making a positive impact on society and is fully committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people.  RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. www.rxglobal.com

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

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in-cosmetics Asia has announced the winners of its annual Awards, held at the Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Centre (BITEC). A testament to the relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation within the cosmetic and personal care industry, the awards recognise outstanding ingredient innovations from some of the trailblazing leaders in this space.

As the leading event for the cosmetic and personal care community in the Asia-Pacific region (APAC), the expert judging panel have awarded accolades for the Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient and the Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient awards, plus the Spotlight On Awards.

INNOVATION ZONE: ACTIVE INGREDIENT AWARD

Immunight by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has been honoured with the prestigious Gold Active Ingredient Award for its green-processed oil-soluble lavandin extract, specifically designed to reduce the effects of poor-quality sleep on skin by boosting nighttime skin recovery and targeting the improvement of sleep quality by inhalation of olfactory compounds.

The Silver Award was awarded to CODIF which impressed the judges with its REGETASTE – an anti-ageing epidermal ingredient that improves skin texture and brightness.

RAHN AG has once again demonstrated its commitment to innovation by receiving the prestigious Bronze Award for its water-based extraction of Helichrysum italicum syn angustifolium, chlorogenic acid, and di-O-caffeoylquinic acids, PERFELINE®, to strengthen the micro-vessels in human skin.

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD 

In the Functional Ingredient Award category, Emulium Dermolea MB earned Gattefossé the esteemed Gold Award. As a plant-based O/W emulsifier, this functional ingredient offers a unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes to reduce skin stress and bring long-term soothing.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S by IOI Oleo scooped the Silver Award for its cold-processable transforming ingredient allowing simple powder-to-emulsion on-the-go formulas with soft after-feel.

Also highly commended for its achievements, BENTONE® PLUS GLOW won Elementis the Bronze Award, combining natural ingredients designed to impart rheological control and suspension to the oil phase of cosmetics and skin care products and promote the skin’s barrier function.

SPOTLIGHT ON FORMULATION AWARD

in-cosmetics Asia also provided a platform for attendees to celebrate outstanding achievements through the prestigious Spotlight On Formulation Award in the Sustainable, Conscious Beauty and Love is in the Hair (Haircare) categories.

The awards saw 39 entries reviewed by judges live on the show floor, marking an exciting journey to discover this year’s winners:

The Bronze Award for Sustainable, Conscious Beauty went to BioSyn-Bisabolol by China-based Soho Aneco Chemicals, whilst Silver was awarded to Lotion with Neosolue-Aqulio by Japanese company, Nippon Fine Chemical.

Described by one of the judges as “an outstanding innovative achievement for 5% UV Filters with SPF30, with a good feel, great double layered encapsula and technology with particle aggregate prevention”, the Gold Award went to SunCat JCW03 by Taiwanese BIO-NEST Biochemical Technology. 

Competition was fierce in the “Love is in the Hair” (haircare) category with two Gold Award winners announced: BURGEON-UP(HS) by Ichimaru Pharcos from Japan took the first accolade for a product that, according to one of the judges was, “a great topical cosmos option for hair greying, with a dual function for anti-hair loss and anti-grey hair”.

Azelis was awarded Gold for its Detox Scalp Butter Mask, referred to by the judges as a “really trendy, easy to use multifunctional with a lovely end formula and texture.”

This year’s awards brought together a wealth of experience and expertise, comprising leading experts and professionals to evaluate and recognise the most innovative entries:

Dr Awanthi De Silva, Senior R&D/ Regulatory Compliance Lead, Moorebank Aerosol and Fillers
Dr. Jaesung Hwang, Professor, KyungHee University;
Dr Junho Choi, Chief Researcher, Amorepacific;
Dr Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group;
Dr Oliver Hofmann, in-cosmetics Asia Official Technical Advisor and Technical Director, Shieling Laboratories;
Faiza Hussain, Co-Founder and Head of Innovation, Younger Inc.;
John Jimenez, Senior Researcher, Belcorp;
Merve Samur, Director, The INCI Lab;
Mike Sohn, General Manager, REACH24H Consulting Group;
Muriel Pujos, Technical and Scientific Director Skin Care, Coty Monaco;
Ranelle Anderson, Technical Director, Ausmetix Pty Ltd;
Stacey Fraser (DipFormChem), Personal Care Product Design Consultant, Stacey Fraser.Co;
Yvette Ishac, Head of R&D, IconsIRauxel;
Belinda Carli, Director/Cosmetic Chemist, The Institute of Personal Care Science.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

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(Partner Content)

Pre-Registration Now Open

Beijing, 18 September 2023 — The upcoming edition of Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi), China’s choice sourcing platform for the global personal care industry, will be held from 20-22 March 2024 at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center in China.

Riding on the remarkable growth of China’s beauty & personal care market, PCHi 2024 promises to be a landmark event, bringing together industry leaders, esteemed academics, and influential government representatives to explore the latest trends, innovations, and solutions.

According to a forecast by Statista, revenues for China’s beauty & personal care market are expected to soar to an impressive US$60.17 billion in 2023. This upward trajectory is set to continue at a robust annual rate of 5.03% (CAGR 2023-2028) .

With the increase of Chinese consumers prioritizing product efficacy, the industry is turning its focus to research and development and product innovation, ushering in an exciting era of possibilities.

The Gateway to China’s Personal Care Industry

In light of these trends, PCHi 2024­­ will provide an unparalleled platform for networking, knowledge sharing, and business development, fostering growth and collaboration across the industry.

Attendees can look forward to engaging with perennial show segments like the PCHi Annual Industry Conference, New Products Showcase, New Technology Sessions, and the highly anticipated PCHi Fountain Awards, which have been integral to the event’s success over the years.

The PCHi Sustainability Zone, Beauté Gourmet experiential zone, and the Toxicological Testing Zone will also return — making PCHi 2024 an event brimming with exciting features to meet the diverse needs of the industry.

“We are pulling out all stops to make PCHi 2024 an experience like no other,” said a spokesperson from Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions, the event’s organizer. “As the industry continues to thrive and evolve, PCHi remains the definitive gateway to China’s thriving beauty and personal care market, offering an enriching platform that facilitates knowledge exchange, fosters deeper industry insights, and enables business opportunities for all participants, regardless of their functional roles.”

PCHi2024 Exhibitor List (until September 18th)

Secure Hassle-free Access to PCHi 2024

Industry professionals planning to attend the event are encouraged to register before 23:00 (GMT+8) on March 15, 2024. Please click PCHi2024 Pre-Registration

By registering online early, visitors enjoy complimentary access and ensure seamless entry without the hassle of waiting in line at the event. Self-service counters will also be available for pre-registered guests to collect their passes on-site — a move to enhance the overall event experience for visitors.

For more information about PCHi 2024, please visit www.pchi-china.com/en, or connect with PCHi on social media.

Statista, https://www.statista.com/outlook/cmo/beauty-personal-care/china, August 2023

Notes to the Editor

About PCHi

The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show is China’s #1 Sourcing Platform for the Global Personal Care Industry. As an innovation-led event, PCHi provides cosmetics, home and personal care manufacturers, ingredients suppliers, cosmetics packaging, machinery and product testing providers from all over the world with a quality platform for ingredients sourcing, gaining insight into global trends, and networking with world-class experts.

Visit www.pchi-china.com/en or connect with PCHi on social media for regular updates.

LinkedIn    www.linkedin.com/company/PCHiChina
Instagram www.instagram.com/PCHi_China  
Facebook  www.facebook.com/PCHiExpo
YouTube   www.youtube.com/user/PCHiExpo
WeChat 

Choosing sustainable products has become such an important trend for consumers that brands can no longer ignore the need to be eco-conscious. In their recent 2022 Sustainability Barometer report, Mintel found that over 40% of consumers reported they would be encouraged to purchase products where the labelling shows how a product is environmentally friendly and/or its impact on the environment.

Proving and explaining sustainability is also so important, particularly considering potentially misleading ‘green washing’ claims, that around 60 cosmetic stakeholders, including some very big cosmetic brands and associations, have come together to form an EcoBeautyScore consortium. You can track the progress of its development here – but while we wait for the full details of how sustainability of cosmetic ingredients and personal care products can be ‘scored’, here are my top tips to help you make your brand more eco-transparent for your consumer and support your sustainability message.

Eco-ready tip # 1: Clarify what sustainability means to your brand.

One of the simplest definitions of sustainability could be: being able to be maintained at a certain rate. For example, if we need to chop down a hectare of three-year old trees to obtain an ingredient, then we need to replant a hectare of those trees – and should have already planted another two hectares of those same trees two and three years ago.

Unfortunately, true sustainability, when you consider a broader meaning of the term, such as ensuring the rate of use can be maintained over several years, and in fact, ensuring longevity of the supply for future generations, it becomes much hard to define and prove. It becomes even harder when you try to apply either definition to the cosmetics industry!

There are very few cosmetic ingredients that can be plucked from a source and used as they are – in fact, there are hardly any. Just about every cosmetic ingredient needs at least a purifying step, while many cosmetic ingredients can have multiple processing steps, and even international transport, before they are used in a cosmetic formula. Each of those processing steps can have a significant carbon footprint, not to mention the impact of any shipping methods over long distances – so it goes far beyond replanting the original material in a growth-rate related manner.

Other considerations can include, but are not limited to: the impact on local societies, where farming or culture is impacted; and waste matter, throughout the production process. Watch this video which also explains how natural ingredients can still have a significant carbon footprint – and what you might need to check with your supplier to make sure you haven’t misinterpreted their meaning of green.

True sustainability needs to take into account the overall impact of an ingredient – not just if it can be regrown or replanted in a time efficient manner. It’s this overall impact that is much harder to quantify not only for an individual ingredient, but for a multi-component product, including all elements of its packaging, such as a finished cosmetic or personal care product.

The EcoBeautyScore will take into account all of these factors, so get your brand ready by clarifying: what aspects of sustainability have you taken into account, and what areas of sustainability have you not yet considered?

Eco-ready tip # 2: Start collecting documentation.

As with any claim, evidence is required to support it. Previously, with a claim such as sustainability within the cosmetics industry, there has been no standard to use as a scoring model – but the EcoBeautyScore will change this. Read this blog to check you aren’t guilty of greenwashing without the right evidence!

While using the EcoBeautyScore on your brand’s products will be optional, with key industry players taking part in developing the scoring standards, brands that don’t adopt the scoring system may be considered as not being pro-active by conscious consumers.

But – your brand doesn’t have to be left behind! Start collecting evidence about the sustainability of your cosmetic brand’s ingredients now by contacting your suppliers for clarification of their sustainability statements. You may be surprised to learn that many suppliers are ready for this next step by industry already – many will already have data that could include a green score, a carbon rating, biodegradability information and even marine impacts. They would commonly also have statements or information on the sourcing which could include environmental impacts.

And don’t forget your packaging! Your packaging suppliers would also have considerable data about the sourcing, recyclability and biodegradability of their components also. Watch this video for some great packaging innovations and where industry is heading.

Reach out to your suppliers now to collect the information and data they have to support your eco- and sustainability messages as it will take time to collate and sort this information. You can guarantee any eco statement is going to need some or all of what you collect.

An up-side to this data collection is that your brand may discover some great stats or information it can use to support and clarify its meaning of sustainability – messages that your consumer is wanting to hear but you possibly weren’t even aware you had access to yet!

Eco-ready tip # 3: Speak to your consumer.

One of the great things about the EcoBeautyScore system is that it will use real-world language a consumer will understand. It is going to be based on validated science, but translated in a way that an everyday consumer, without a strong background in science, can easily interpret: what does this eco-beauty-score actually mean?

You can prepare your brand for the coming changes by using clear, unambiguous terms about:

• what sustainability means for your brand (refer to tip # 1), and
• how your brand has achieved this with each of your products, once you’ve collected all of that important evidence (refer to tip # 2).

Test the terms you want to use on your target market via your social media channels – it will not only build confidence in the sustainability message of your brand, you may find it doesn’t need to be adjusted greatly once the EcoBeautyScore terminology is finally provided.

Finally, if you need some tips and ideas on how to boost your brands sustainability profile, consider this video which shows some leading sustainable innovations.

It’s encouraging to see industry working together to protect our planet and safeguard consumers’ purchases. Get ready for the EcoBeautyScore system by preparing your cosmetic brand with these easy to implement steps and see how responsive your consumers really are.

Happy formulating!

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The world’s leading personal ingredients show returns to Barcelona, Spain for the first time in eight years

16 January 2022: Sustainability is now top of mind for personal care and cosmetic ingredient suppliers, manufacturers and brands. Helping the industry to take the next step towards circularity, in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, will return to Barcelona, Spain this March with sustainability at the forefront of discussions.

Taking place at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via from 28-30 March 2023 – the first time back in the Catalonia capital since 2015 – more than 700 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are anticipated to showcase the latest ingredient suppliers. Among them, 80% of the top 20 global cosmetics ingredient suppliers will be in attendance. This includes BASF, Croda, Ashland, Solvay, Clariant, Momentive, Evonik, Lubrizol, Nouryon, Arxada (formerly Lonza Specialty Ingredients), Stepan Europe, Wacker, Shin-Etsu, Roquette, DSM and Symrise. Meanwhile, almost 60 new exhibitors will exhibit for the first time, including AntalGenics, Cellugy ApS, Escruder, Gravel AI, Innomost and Sequential Bio.

Zoning in on Sustainability

New for 2023, in-cosmetics Global will help attendees understand what it means to be truly sustainable. Since 2017, the Sustainability Corner feature at the event has grown in popularity, with an increasing number of attendees looking for suitable solutions. The new, dedicated Sustainability Zone will welcome exhibitors who can support suppliers and manufacturers in becoming more sustainable. Sponsored by FarmForce and in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence, the zone will cover every step of the supply chain from product planning, formulation and ingredient sourcing to packaging, manufacturing and transportation.

Elsewhere on the show floor, dedicated zones will focus on specialist topics – bringing together suppliers to help attendees discover the companies and solutions available to meet their unique challenges.  From the latest ingredient launches in the show’s popular Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland, to tailored product showcases in the Fragrance Zone, Lab Zone and Testing and Regulation Zone. Furthermore, the Sensory Bar and Make-Up Bar will return to offer inspiration for the next generation of new product launches, helping attendees discover exciting new formulations.

Brands and ingredients will also be on show by location. The event’s dedicated country pavilions will capture the trends and innovations showcased by suppliers, spanning France, UK, Brazil, Spain, China, Tunisia, South Africa and new to the show this year, Indonesia.

Also returning to the show to connect attendees with the latest products and brands – both established and new – will be the event’s dedicated R&D Tours. Following their  resounding success at in-cosmetics Global in Paris 2022, the tours will be open exclusively to R&D  professionals from cosmetic/contract manufacturers. The themes for this year’s tours include Microbiome – Advancements in skincare and anti-ageing (sponsored by Symrise), ‎Skinification (sponsored by Codif)‎ and Biotech (sponsored by Mibelle Biotechnology)‎. Also available in a digital and printed format for on-site visitors, this year’s Indie Trail will help attendees navigate the event with greater efficiency, creating new business opportunities.

Learning from industry experts

While the show floor will offer boundless opportunities to source the latest ingredients, the education programme at this year’s in-cosmetics Global will bring together leading industry experts to explore the more pertinent trends impacting cosmetics and personal care brands. Market intelligence will be explored in the Marketing Trends Theatre, where experts will be on hand to deliver the latest industry research and market analysis.

The Sustainability Corner Theatre, sponsored by AAK, will showcase the very latest developments and achievements in sustainable beauty, while Technical Seminars will offer inspiration for new product formulations and alternative solutions for existing projects. Finally, the popular Formulation Lab will return, sponsored by Brenntag, with a carefully curated programme to provide  exclusive opportunities for formulators and R&D specialists to get hands-on with the latest formulation techniques.

Speaking about the 2023 event, Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “More than ever, we’re seeing sustainability dominate conversations, with suppliers, manufacturers and brands all dedicating time and budget to understand how they can minimise their impact on the planet. As the conversation continues to expand, we’re delighted to announce the launch of our new Sustainability Zone at this year’s event. It will further expand the opportunities for attendees to discover solutions to every challenge facing their business. We’re counting down the days to return to Barcelona – our first Spanish event since 2015 – and the chance to inspire the industry to take the next step in the critical journey to circularity.”

in-cosmetics Global returns from 28-30 March 2023 at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via Conference Centre. For more information and to register to attend, visit the website.

For more information on exhibitor’s, visit the Exhibitor Directory.

ENDS

Premier Sponsor:

A new digital natural formulation-focused tool, a digital asset-led campaign and a new multi-million project looks for plant-based feedstock alternatives to progress innovations in beauty and personal care. Scalp care and personal care repellent launches focus on protecting consumers’ skin.

In our bi-weekly cosmetics round-up, we delve into the beauty and personal care space to explore the latest news, updates, launches and developments around the globe.

Clariant launches online tool for natural beauty manufacturing.

Personal care company, Clariant, conceptualises and releases a new digital tool to give beauty and personal care brands information on the naturality of their proposed formulations.

In creating its personal care tool, BeautyForward 6, Clariant seeks to enable consumers to access natural knowledge about ingredients and products. The tool is designed to calculate the percentage of natural ingredients and the naturality of personal care formulations.

The tool was produced in alignment with the industry-standardised framework, ISO 16128 methodology, which defines and quantifies criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.

With over 800 Clariant and non-Clariant ingredients on its platform, the personal care name aims to provide information on the ingredient’s naturality. Clariant aims to help manufacturers explore the contents of individual ingredients and formulations listed on the platform. Users can access the information to create their formulation from scratch or follow guidance to help produce their desired end-product.

“There is evident increasing consumer preference for natural, specifically plant-based ingredients, as well as a growing expectation for brands to understand and communicate on naturality with transparency,” said Hermann Bach, Global Head of Strategic Marketing and Innovation at Clariant.

Clinique and Daz 3D partner to create beauty brand’s first makeup NFT.

US multinational beauty producer, Clinique, joins forces with non-fungible community developer, Daz 3D, to release the beauty brand’s first-ever makeup non-fungible token (NFT) campaign.

Clinique is the first of the Estée Lauder brands to move into the NFT space (an increasingly popular move by beauty brands) by producing and showcasing its first advanced technology-led makeup campaign, called “Metaverse More Like Us”.

By utilising the digital asset, Clinique gears up to develop its profile on the 3D internet, otherwise known as the metaverse, as it aims to build a better and more inclusive online beauty world.

In collaboration with Daz 3D, Clinique worked with makeup artists and creators, including Tess Daly, Sheika Daley and Emira D’Spain and leading authority in NFT, Cathy Hackl, to produce its inaugural makeup campaign using the increasingly-prevalent unit of data.

The makeup artists and creators each produced two beauty aesthetics, forming a total of six makeup creations. In developing its looks, Clinique wanted to embrace a diverse range of NFPs to reflect all skin tones, face shapes and hairstyles.

“Our mission to be in the service of all skin means that we’re dedicated to increasing inclusivity everywhere our brand connects with consumers, and that commitment is no different in the Metaverse,” said Carolyn Dawkins, SVP of Global Marketing, Analytics and Online at Clinique. “As the Metaverse is blossoming, we know that what we create today can positively impact the beauty standards of the future,” added Dawkins.

Unilever and Genomatica embark on $120 million venture to scale plant-based feedstocks.

Personal care supplier Unilever and biotechnology company Genomatica (Geno) announce a $120 million (€114 mn) joint venture to develop alternatives to palm oil and fossil fuels for personal care products.

By collaborating, the new partnership will allow both companies to access new sustainable ingredients and technologies to create more environmentally-friendly everyday personal care products by finding plant-based feedstock varieties.

The new partnership marks Unilever’s largest venture in exploring possible biotechnology alternatives to palm oil. Together, the duo will focus on commercialising and scaling options to palm oil and fossil fuel-derived cleansing ingredients.

Geno will draw on its platform to find plant-based feedstocks. Currently, it is moving towards scaling its sustainable feedstock-focused process to enable its advanced technology to produce ingredients. The company is using plant- or waste-based feedstock to create fossil fuel alternative materials that can be scaled and commercialised for use in the personal care sector.

Early indications suggest that by utilising biotech, brands in the personal care sector can reduce the carbon footprint of palm-derived ingredients by 50% with the adoption of plant-based varieties.

“We’ve developed our technology in response to our planet’s urgent climate crisis and we’ve proven that biotechnology can replace traditional production methods to produce ingredients with bio-based sources that deliver both high-performance and sustainability, at scale,” relayed Christophe Schilling, CEO of Geno.

“Biotechnology has the potential to revolutionise the sourcing of our cleansing ingredients,” said Richard Slater, Chief Research and Development (R&D) Officer at Unilever. “We are building this innovative new venture to have the scale to drive real impact and change in our industry, helping to reinvent the chemistry of home and personal care products for the 21st Century,” Slater added.

Kao develops new mosquito repellent product.

Japanese personal care brand, Kao, unveils its newly-developed mosquito repellent for consumers in Thailand. The product, Bioré GUARD Mos Block Serum, utilises the Asian skincare and personal care brand’s technology to provide a serum that blocks mosquitos by having widespread protection over the skin.

Developing its new technology saw Kao research how best to protect consumers from mosquitoes. The brand subsequently devised its latest product, a formula that acts as a protection shield, with the aim of offering skin protection. The technology’s mechanism is geared to differ from conventional insect repellents on the market, which it states “rely on mainly volatile active agents”.

Kao has set up its Guard Our Future global project to help save lives from mosquitoes by working to control dengue fever and other infectious diseases spread by mosquitoes. It is initially releasing its product in Thailand and then plans to extend to the wider Southeast Asia region to build awareness-raising activities, field testing and research activities.

The formulation contains natural citronella oil, floral blossom fragrance and lavender valley fragrances and is deet-free. Kao designed the formulation to have a non-sticky texture and to provide widespread coverage on the skin.

Nutrafol unveils patent-pending scalp system.

Hair health brand, Nutrafol, releases a new product line that draws on understanding of hair biology. The unveiling of its patent-pending Scalp Microbiome Support comes after research into the scalp barrier and the impact of both internal and external environmental impacts on the scalp microbiome.

The physician-formulated products have been created to balance the scalp microbiome and offer opportunities for optimal hair growth by using nutraceuticals contained within the product.

Nutrafol’s new collection of scalp care products includes an exfoliating mask, a cleansing shampoo and a scalp microbiome essence. The product line also contains the Microbiome Friendly Seal certification, which is used by personal care brands to indicate those products that follow specific clinical testing to ensure products look after and encourage positive microbial diversity.

“The scalp microbiome is not just another trendy health topic being talked about on social media—it is an important element to overall hair health that should be cared for just as much as people care about their skin routines,” said Giorgos Tsetis, CEO and co-founder of Nutrafol.

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New beauty partnerships see global beauty, perfumery, personalization and skin diagnostics take centre stage.

A multi-million investment in period and intimate care sees one brand work towards realizing its global vision.

New findings in hair loss and skincare ingredients strive to progress the options available to meet consumers’ needs and concerns.

In our bi-weekly cosmetics round-up, we explore the need-to-know cosmetics industry news, beauty trends and personal care launches worldwide.

DSM and Firmenich merge.

Two global personal care giants, DSM and Firmenich, have come together to pull their resources and knowledge in leading scientific understanding and capabilities in beauty and wellbeing. Entering into a business combination agreement, the duo strives to build the leading creation and innovation partner in beauty and wellbeing through its newly-created DSM-Firmenich.

By teaming up, global science company DSM, and fragrance and flavour business Firmenich, strive to maximize their ability to anticipate and address evolving consumer needs. The duo will leverage leading science and capabilities in the beauty and wellbeing spaces, including fragrance, to boost innovation in identified high-growth and resilient segments.

With combined revenues of $3.5 billion (€3.3 bn) in the perfumery and beauty sector, Firmenich will see its global perfumery and ingredients business expand further by uniting with DSM’s personal care and aroma business.

The newly-named DSM-Firmenich will house its dual headquarters in Kaiseraugst, Switzerland and Maastricht, the Netherlands. DSM-Firmenich’s perfumery and beauty arm will be led from Geneva, Switzerland. Following the merger, DSM’s shareholders will own a total of 65.5% of the company and Firmenich shareholders will take 34.5%.

New clinical findings in hair loss bring new treatment opportunities.

Aesthetic medical technology company, Revian, revealed the results of a recent clinical study by Wake Forest University School of Medicine, US. The study explored how Revian’s  hair loss focused system may be able to help treat patients with Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA).

The company expressed that CCCA is a form of scarring hair loss with no known cure that largely impacts women of African descent, and the condition is considered to have environmental, genetic and inflammatory elements.

“To our knowledge, this is the first study evaluating the use of low-level light therapy for CCCA management and we were excited to partner with the Revian team to evaluate a treatment for this devastating condition,” said Dr Amy McMichael, Chair and Professor of Dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine. “In my opinion, the Revian Red system is showing promising results for a complex disease for which we have no treatment options.”

Revian explains that its Red System uses a patented combination of two LED light wavelengths of 620 nanometers (nm) and 660 nm. The two wavelengths stimulate nitric oxide production and release, increase local blood flow, lower inflammation and inhibit the steroid, dihydrotestosterone (DHT).

In the study, patients used the all-LED treatment cap for ten minutes per day. Patients’ hair loss was assessed with follow-up visits at two, four and six months by examining digital photography, patients’ self-assessment of their symptoms and clinical evaluations into their severity.

The clinical findings reported that 75% of patients saw a decreased loss of follicular openings and breakage. They also detailed that follow-up imaging showed short, re-growing vellus hairs and minimal inter and perifollicular scale. Further, 75% of patients had improved Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) at the end of the study. Researchers at the Wake Forest University School of Medicine shared the results of its recent clinical study at the Society for Investigative Dermatology 2022 Annual Meeting.

L’Oréal snaps up stake in Japanese startup, Sparty.

Global cosmetic company L’Oréal has announced it has acquired a minority investment in personalized beauty startup Sparty. The acquisition of Sparty marks the global beauty brand’s first beauty purchase in Japan. L’Oréal’s corporate venture capital fund BOLD (Business Opportunities for L’Oréal Development) managed the purchase.

Tokyo-based e-commerce name, Sparty, entered the beauty technology scene in 2017. Developing its direct-to-consumer business model focusing on personalized beauty, Sparty houses haircare brands such as Medulla and skincare names, including Hotaru.

With its mission to “create a sensual era”, Sparty strives to appeal to consumers looking for personalized beauty collections and personalized consumer experiences.

“Japan is one of the most sophisticated and influential beauty markets,” said Jean-Pierre Charriton, CEO of L’Oréal Japan. “In Japan, personalized consumer experience is highly valued, and we are seeing new trends and innovations when it comes to personalization, especially in beauty.”

Rael raises $35 million for period and intimate care expansion.

Holistic personal care name, Rael, which centres on period care, intimate care and skincare, has closed a $35 million Series B round of investment.

Launched in 2017 by three Korean American women in Los Angeles, US, Rael is the personal care brand made by women for all people who bleed. Since its inception, Rael has raised a total of $59 million and expanded to South Korea. The brand has hopes to expand to a further 12 international countries.

Following its investment, Rael plans to pursue its ongoing product development led by its development team in South Korea, expand its approach to women’s wellness, progress growth in retail by developing partnerships, invest in brand and trade marketing, and advance its global expansion. The brand is also building upon its executive leadership team, with Lauren Consiglio becoming its President, who was previously a senior marketing executive at Unilever and L’Oreal.

“We started Rael with a mission to improve women’s wellness by leveraging novel technology from Korea, bringing organic, high-performing, comfortable products to the marketplace,” said Yanghee Paik, CEO and co-founder of Rael. “Now, five years later, the company has evolved greatly, but our commitment to bringing women cleaner and more effective personal care solutions throughout their hormonal cycle has stayed the same.”

i-On Skincare unveils new skincare launches.

Beauty tech brand, i-On skincare, launches two new products to the beauty market: its Age Disrupting Skin Emulsion and AI-powered Skin Diagnostic Tool.

i-On Skincare relays that biological aging is significantly impacted by the key factor of excess iron build-up on the skin. It states that this element, which occurs with the cessation of menstruation, is most responsible for forming oxygen free radicals that are known to cause visible signs of skin aging.

With a focus on formulating cosmetics, the brand uses its patented DII technology with vitamin C and pearl powder, designed to remove excess iron from the skin’s surface, allowing the skin to focus on repairing and rebuilding.

With a focus on targeting excess iron that forms on the skin’s surface, i-On skincare has unveiled its skin-aging product, Age Disrupting Skin Emulsion, utilizing DII technology. The brand also teamed up with fellow beauty tech name, Perfect Corp, to develop its AI-powered Skin Diagnostic Tool. i-On Skincare saw this partnership as a natural next step as it seeks to expand its educational communication on the relationship between biological aging, lifestyles and routines.

“Our goal is to shift the conversation about how we think and talk about aging,” said Dr. Xi Huang, founder of i-On Skincare.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

The Formulation Summit 2021 (29-30 November) was a fabulous event which I had the great honour to moderate. It was not just about cosmetic trends, science and regulations, but also about the cosmetic industry’s resilience and the people behind it, from the speakers and the attendees, to the sponsors (CompLife and CLR Berlin) and even the event organizers who managed to pull through despite the challenges. Even though it lasted for just two days, a lot of content was covered, and in this article I will give a summary of what I believe were the key “take aways” of the event. (1)

COVID CONSUMERS AND INDUSTRY TRENDS – “MORE FOR LESS”
Consumers have kept on using on cosmetics during the pandemic, especially with a mental health focus. They also expect more out of the beauty products they use, and this makes multifunctional cosmetics very trendy and appealing. Examples of this trend are haircare products with de-stressing benefits, and colour cosmetics with additional skincare properties.

Ironically, the industry has ended up embodying the “making more for less” mind set because of the disruption experienced, from staff to ingredients, packaging etc. The raw materials shortage has also shone a light on supply chains, making local supplies more appealing, even if they are not as cost effective. After all, a reliable supply is a very valuable commodity, and if it comes with transparency it is even more valued, so it can add to the credibility and authenticity of a beauty product in a competitive market place driven by consumers with an increasingly stronger sense of ethics.

HAND GELS, “NOT EASY PEASY”
Antibacterial hand gels would seem so simple to make; mix together water, alcohol and a gelling agent and off you go. But they are far more complicated than mixing a few ingredients together; from safe manufacturing conditions to product efficacy, compatible packaging and regulatory compliance, all of these are complicating factors. The same formula can also be sold as a drug, a biocide or a cosmetic, depending on the product claims, which in turn will determine the type of testing and regulatory requirements, and these result in different budgets and timelines. So, a few words about a hand gel can have quite a domino effect on the development cost, as well as the time to get it compliant and where it can be sold.

REGULATORY UPDATES
The UK Cosmetic Regulations initially started in sync with the European ones, however there are divergences ahead, especially regarding the approach to raw materials safety evaluation, i.e. UK REACH. This may be a great challenge to the animal testing ban as, at the moment the UK responsible body does not seem keen to purchase the data already available in Europe. As a result of this divergence, DHA will be permitted at levels above 10%, whereas microplastics, D5 and D6 restrictions will not be implemented in the UK work program for 2021/2022 , which will include PFAS instead.

In the coming spring, the UK will also enforce a plastic tax on packaging that contains less than 30 % PCR plastic. This tax will not apply to pharmaceutical products.

A few months ago a new bill, called the Cosmetic Supply Chain Transparency Act of 2021 (2), was published in the US Congress, giving cosmetics manufacturers and beauty brands the power to request more information about residues present in raw materials as well as safety data to make safer products.

The Ecolabel standard has been revised to include stricter rules regarding Palm Oil derivatives sourcing.

PACKAGING AND PLASTIC POLLUTION, “WHO IS RESPONSIBLE?”
Everybody is aware of pollution caused by plastic packaging, however who is responsible for sorting this out and how do we go about it? Some people believe the key culprit is consumer’s bad behaviour which need to be punished in order to change their polluting habits. Other people believe it is an industry problem, being and call for packaging design that allows for easy recycling ,and for new business models that uses plastic waste as a commodity to manufacture other finished products according to a circular model. The packaging challenge is ultimately everyone’s problem, starting with brand owners, involving the packaging designers, environmental regulators, moulders and packaging manufacturers and finally consumers. Everybody needs to get on board if we are to solve this challenge.

THE NEURO-COSMETICS TRIANGLE: “BRAIN, SKIN, AND EMOTIONS”
A simple movement of our face muscles, like smiling, can induce the release of endorphins, the happy chemicals that make us feel relaxed and even look younger. The skin is the largest sensorial organ and it contains a complex peripheral neuronal system; positive emotions can also be triggered the other way round, by applying cosmetics formulated with hedonistic criteria that can affect the mood. Formulations developed according to this neuro-cosmetic approach can achieve quite interesting results. In fact a fascinating consumers study showed that a product with a good hedonistic profile was favoured over a product with better efficacy data, showing how consumers greatly value the way a cosmetic product makes them feel. This is a relatively new cosmetic frontier, that of neuro-cosmetics, and it carries great innovation potential; but it also has the concomitant danger of being used to mislead consumers in new ways, leading to “neuro-washing”– in order to trick consumers into buying unnecessary products. So, we need to use this new approach wisely.

REFERENCES AND NOTES
1. https://www.in-cosmetics.com/ summit/en-gb/programme/ formulation-summit-programme. html#/sessions
2. https://www.congress.gov/ bill/117th-congress/house[1]bill/5539?s=1&r=18.The post Formulation Summit 2021 – Key takeaways first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/formulation-summit-2021-key-take-aways-by-barbara-olioso/feed/ 0 16882 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news/in-cosmetics-global-and-asia-now-scheduled-for-2022-in-cosmetics-latin-america-moving-to-november-2021/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news/in-cosmetics-global-and-asia-now-scheduled-for-2022-in-cosmetics-latin-america-moving-to-november-2021/#comments Tue, 17 Aug 2021 08:01:00 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=15374 in-cosmetics Global and in-cosmetics Asia are being postponed. The rescheduled dates for in-cosmetics Global will be 5-7 April 2022 in Paris, and in-cosmetics Asia will now take place on 1-3 November 2022.

Every month, Simon Pitman (Editor, Journalist) takes a look at what’s shaken up the industry. From acquisitions to launches and everything in-between, don’t miss the latest cosmetics news, only here at in-cosmetics Connect.

Kao Corp invests $136m into digital transformation

Japanese multinational beauty player Kao has been hard hit by the pandemic, leading company executives to take the decision to invest big in a digital transformation to offset declining sales. The company says it is investing $136m to create digital tools that will enhance the competitiveness of its cosmetics division in an effort to build on the value of its current portfolio offering, improve the user experience and reach new consumers.

Company executives want to engage the many consumers who have shifted to digital shopping during the pandemic, as well as tailoring its offering to significantly changing consumer needs and a number of key new trends that have appeared as a result.

“A good example of this approach is Kate Lip Monster, a lipstick launched in April​,” said President and CEO Yoshihiro Hasebe.

“By effectively communicating its features, of not discolouring easily even when a face mask is worn and long-lasting moisture by using digital marketing, we succeeded in gaining its recognition and support among consumers. As a result, the product gained a high market share.”​

Last month the company announced that it was ditching physical hair dye swatches, a measure that it estimates will reduce the amount of plastic it used by 56 tonnes a year. The swathes have been replaced with an augmented reality tool that stimulates hair colours using an app created by Taiwanese tech player Perfect Corp, together with the company’s YouCam Make-up App.

Kao says the new technology takes advantage of a new development that every hair colourant product in every shade can be tested using its HK Dye Technology to show different hair colours in all types of light angles. The investment in the new digital technology is part of the company’s aim to get its sales back on track after revenues fell by more than 5% during 2020 while operating income decreased by more than 17% on a like-for-like basis.

In particular, the company’s colour cosmetics sales performed particularly poorly, slumping by more than 20% in 2020, but this was counterbalanced by an increase in skincare products, driven by hygiene and hand soap products.

The company says it is also considering divesting a number of smaller beauty and personal care brands over the course of the next two years, although it did add that this will only include brands with a profit margin of less than 15%.

L’Orêal gets a full score for the 2021 Disability Equality Index

L’Orêal has received a full 100 out of 100 for its 2021 Disability Equality Index (DEI) rating, the fourth year in a row the company has secured a perfect score.

The DEI is the result of a joint venture between Disability IN and the American Association of People with Disabilities (AAPD), a programme that aims to create full opportunities for people with disabilities as well as specific amenities to accommodate a range of disabilities in the workplace.

“At L’Oréal USA, we have a responsibility to create an inclusive and accessible work environment where individuals with disabilities feel supported and positioned for success,” said Angela Guy, chief diversity & inclusion officer, L’Oréal USA

“As a business leader with my own disabilities, I appreciate the encouragement to generate an open dialogue across the business and ensure we are always working to foster an inclusive workplace culture among our employees.”

The DEI was launched in 2015, rating corporations according to how well they accommodate disabilities employees using a score out of 100 that has been linked to a constantly evolving index rating that has been developed by the DEI committee and a voluntary group of experts over the course of the last six years.

In 2021 319 corporations enlisted to become involved in the DEI benchmarking efforts, evaluating participants according to nine different categories.

Those categories include:

• Culture & Leadership
• Enterprise-Wide Access
• Employment Practices (Benefits, Recruitment, Employment, Education, Retention & Advancement, Accommodations)
• Community Engagement
• Supplier Diversity
• Non-U.S. Operations

For 2021, the DEI was adapted to changing workplace conditions created by the pandemic, which meant the addition of weighted questions relating to advance digital and remote accessibility, as well as mental wellness benefits and flexible work options.

“The Disability Equality Index shines a spotlight on companies that believe they have a stake in creating a more equitable society for people with disabilities,” said Maria Town, President and CEO of AAPD.

“It is a conduit for our work championing disability rights for the 60 million Americans with disabilities and knocking down barriers to employment, technology and healthcare, and we’re thrilled to see the progress being made today.”

EWG partners with Amazon on Climate Pledge Friendly list

The Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) verified products have been added to Amazon’s Climate Friendly list after the two organisations struck up a new partnership. Amazon’s Climate Pledge Friendly is designed to make it easier for consumers to buy more sustainable products. It works by ensuring that brands hold at least one or more approved certification seals that are a part of the Climate Pledge Friendly programme.

Amazon launched the initiative in 2020 and to date, it already includes more than 75,000 different products that have been able to meet the criteria. The programme has been made possible through Amazon’s partnership with a number of government organisations and non-profits that are responsible for distinguishing and certifying products that do not have a negative impact on the environment, therefore making them more sustainable.

By signing up to the Climate Pledge Friendly programme, the EWG joins a number of other leading certifiers also involved in it, including Carbonfree Certified, Certified Animal Approved, Climate Neutral by ClimatePartner, Fairtrade International, Cradle to Cradle Certified, Regenerative Organic Certified, EPA Safer Choice and Compact by Design, among others.

Compact by Design is Amazon’s own certification, created to identify products that incorporate a more efficient design, which, for example, might include the removal of excess air and water, or products that have been designed to have less packaging in order to make them easier to ship.

Both Amazon and the EWG state that their sustainability efforts have been vetted by experts within both Amazon, as well as third-party consultants.

“The EWG Verified mark is recognized as the gold standard for health and transparency,” said Carla Burns, EWG’s senior director of cosmetic science.

“EWG has long verified cosmetics and other personal care products, and recently expanded into household cleaners, baby diapers and ingredients. “Because of this new EWG partnership with Amazon, more consumers will learn about the rigorous science-based criteria we’ve developed to measure a product’s impact on human health and our fragile environment,”

Amazon customers can identify products that are a part of the Climate Pledge Friendly programme by the accompanying badge or by shopping on the dedicated portal. They then simply click on the badge to find out more about the exact certifications the products have complied with and what makes them sustainable.

As well as beauty and personal care products, the programme also extends to groceries, household, fashion and personal electronic products, among others.

Read more about the multinational giants accused of not tackling the root of the plastic pollution problem.