formulation | in-cosmetics Connect

in-cosmetics Asia set for record growth in 2025 with interest up 273%

in-cosmetics group press office, Storm Communications — Sun, 27 Jul 2025 23:11:46 +0000

The agenda will spotlight biotech formulation challenges and consumer trends

in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, is poised to deliver its biggest and most dynamic show to date as it returns to BITEC, Bangkok from 4-6 November 2025.

This year’s event will play host to 80% of the world’s top 10 ingredient suppliers, including industry giants like BASF, Croda, Clariant, and Evonik. It is also expected to welcome 90% of the world’s top 10 cosmetic manufacturers, from L’Oréal and P&G to Kenvue and Unilever.

Now in its 16th year, in-cosmetics Asia has tripled in size since its launch, reflecting the growing demand among R&D professionals and formulators for ingredient solutions in the region.

The 2025 edition will feature over 700 exhibitors and welcome thousands of cosmetic scientists, manufacturers, brand owners, and product developers from across Asia Pacific and further afield. Based on the registration alert requests, overall demand for the show is already tracking 273% higher than at this stage in 2024.

Amid market volatility and regulatory shifts in the US, EU and China, global cosmetic brands are increasingly turning to Asia Pacific, with in-cosmetics Asia website traffic from the US, Russia and China up by 105%, 69% and 22%, respectively.

Up to 100 new exhibitors will be joining the event, with traffic to the website’s Exhibitor Directory up by 151% compared to last year; a clear sign of how eager personal care experts are to research and source the latest personal care ingredients.

in-cosmetics Asia 2025 continues to evolve alongside industry trends, with this year’s show placing a strong spotlight on:
• Personalisation and AI-powered beauty
• Shifting consumer behaviours across China, India and Southeast Asia
• Ethical cosmetics and sustainability: with marine-derived ingredients emerging as one of the most searched-for categories on the website.
• Product stability and efficacy: a core focus of this year’s Technical Seminar and Formulation Lab programmes.
• SPF and UV protection: with the latest advances in UV filters, formulation strategies and regional compliance challenges.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director at in-cosmetics Asia, said:

“This year marks an exciting turning point. As beauty brands navigate macroeconomic pressures and shifting consumer priorities, we have seen growing interest in APAC based on its agility, speed to market and endless demographic opportunities. in-cosmetics Asia 2025 will echo that momentum, not just in scale, but in how deeply we engage with the industry’s most pressing needs.

“From the rise of biotech beauty to the growing demand for well-ageing solutions, we’re aligning our programme with the real challenges facing formulators today: matching consumer trends with R&D capabilities, efficacy, ingredient compatibility, UV protection and more. This year’s show will provide attendees a platform to innovate and advance with confidence. There’s much more to come, and we look forward to revealing what’s in store!”

in-cosmetics Asia will take place from 4-6 November 2025 at BITEC, Bangkok. It will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s leading manufacturing, packaging and OEM/ODM exhibition for personal care and dietary supplement products.

Visitor registration will open in early August. For more information, visit here.

ENDS
Notes to editors: For further information please contact Olivia Evans or Kat Long at the in-cosmetics press office on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

About RX
RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

About RELX
RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

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LignoBase: A natural and sustainable SPF-booster

Yuan Gao, Product Innovation Scientist at Lignopure — Tue, 01 Apr 2025 09:09:26 +0000

(Sponsored article)

Lignin, a naturally abundant polyphenolic compound and key component of plant cell walls, is largely underutilized. Despite its proven powerful properties, it’s primarily relegated to low-value industrial applications or burned for energy, often as a byproduct of cellulose and paper pulp production

Ligopure Base, a natural SPF-Booster

Lignin is emerging as a safer, biodegradable SPF booster for sunscreens and personal care products. Its potential to reduce reliance on synthetic cosmetic ingredients is significant, yet raw lignin is unsuitable for cosmetic applications.

Lignopure recognized this potential and developed a patented particle technology to process lignin and unlocking its cosmetic functionality. This breakthrough resulted in Lignopure Base, the first non-nano lignin powder specifically designed for cosmetic formulations, boasting the highest lignin concentration on the market.

Sourced from clean, sustainable plants and processed with our patented technology, each LignoBase variant retains lignin’s unique polyphenolic structure, delivering key benefits: enhanced SPF, free radical protection, and potent antioxidant activity. Our bio-innovative line offers three distinct ingredients derived from birch trees, pine trees, and wheat straw, providing diverse options for formulators.

Lignopure Base’s mechanisms of SPF boosting effect

After demonstrating the SPF-boosting properties of lignin, many questions arise regarding the mechanisms behind its effectiveness. Based on Lignopure Base’s unique chemical and physical characteristics, we can identify four key mechanisms that may explain how it enhances SPF.

Photostabilization of BMDBM

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), a prevalent UVA filter, is prone to UV-induced instability, diminishing its protective efficacy and generating harmful byproducts. Specifically, its interaction with oxygen produces singlet oxygen, a reactive species that induces oxidative stress and cellular damage. This process further degrades BMDBM, reducing its UVA absorbance and increasing the risk of sun-related skin damage.

While quenchers can mitigate BMDBM’s photodegradation, they themselves can degrade, potentially releasing harmful byproducts. Lignopure Base offers a superior, natural solution by leveraging lignin’s complex phenolic polymer with diverse functional groups, including phenolic hydroxyl, carboxylic, carbonyl, and methoxyl. These groups effectively neutralize singlet oxygen, a primary driver of BMDBM degradation. Consequently, Lignopure Base acts as a natural stabilizer, significantly enhancing BMDBM’s photostability and boosting the overall protective efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Synergetic effect between lignin and UV filters

J-aggregation, the stacking of aromatic rings in lignin and UV filters like OMC, leverages attractive forces between electron-rich and electron-deficient regions. This stacking forms larger structures that significantly alter UV light absorption.

This process lowers the energy required for the π-π* transition, crucial for UV absorption, and creates an extended conjugated system. Consequently, the UV absorption spectrum shifts to longer wavelengths—a spectral redshift. This broadened absorption spectrum allows the material to capture a wider range of UV radiation, enhancing sunscreen effectiveness.

Light scattering effect

The use of light-scattering particles to boost UV protection in sunscreens is a well-known approach, and Lignopure’s innovative micron sized lignin particles excel in this area. The non-nano lignin particles effectively scatter light, and when incorporated into sunscreens, its scattering effect increases the optical path length of UV radiation, ensuring that the light is more likely to interact with dissolved or dispersed UV filter molecules before reaching the skin, thereby enhancing the UV protection.

Film forming capacities

Sunscreen efficacy hinges on both the UV filter system’s absorption properties and its uniform distribution on the skin. Given the skin’s uneven surface, sunscreens that form a consistent film provide superior UV protection compared to those lacking this property. This uniformity directly impacts both in-vivo and in-vitro SPF values. Therefore, enhancing UV filter homogeneity on the skin is crucial for optimal performance.

Film-forming compounds are essential in sunscreen formulations to achieve this uniform distribution and boost SPF. During lignin extraction, residual cellulose often remains bound to the polyphenol structure, naturally imparting film-forming capabilities to the lignin extract. The amount of cellulose residue is directly influenced by the lignin extraction process.

Conclusion

Lignopure Base’s SPF-boosting mechanisms, supported by comprehensive in-vivo and in-vitro testing, establish its potential as a superior natural alternative for cosmetics. This upcycled, bio-based ingredient line enhances SPF levels while prioritizing human health and environmental safety.

From multifunctional makeup and skincare to tinted suncare and SPF-enhanced haircare, Lignopure Base is the ideal ingredient for consumers seeking effective UVA and UVB protection without compromising their commitment to sustainability.

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Asian beauty boom: in-cosmetics Asia 2024 to connect global beauty markets

in-cosmetics group press office, Storm Communications — Wed, 26 Jun 2024 09:33:25 +0000

in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, will return to Thailand in November, as the region’s beauty industry celebrates one of its most successful years on record.

Currently leading the way as one of the biggest beauty markets in the world, accounting for almost a third (32%) of worldwide retail sales (US$570 billion)(*1), APAC is dominating the global sector with a revenue share of $181 billion (*2). This provides the perfect backdrop for the return of in-cosmetics Asia from 5-7 November 2024.

Taking place at BITEC, Bangkok, the event comes at a time when major beauty markets in the region have surged on the international stage; K-Beauty, J-Beauty, and C-Beauty have swooped Western markets, followed closely by emerging markets in Southeast Asia.

Reflecting this surge, interest in the show has skyrocketed, with the event’s website traffic from across APAC up by a staggering 277% year on year. The launch of a new Thai website and a WeChat account, alongside intensified targeting of prospects via digital platforms and partnerships across the continent, underscore this growing interest.

in-cosmetics Asia 2024 will welcome over 650 exhibitors from across the globe, the largest number in the show’s 15-year history. These include some of the top 10 suppliers, from Ashland, Croda, and dsm-firmenich, to Evonik, Clariant, and Lubrizol. Additionally, the event will feature 79 new exhibitors and more in a dedicated New Exhibitor Zone.

Encompassing four key focus areas, this year’s event will hone in on science, innovation, trends, and community, ensuring visitors gain unparalleled insights into the latest developments and directions of the industry in the APAC region and beyond.

Aligned with both growing and emerging consumer trends, anti- ageing and well-ageing, health and wellness, natural beauty, sophisticated simplicity, and neurocosmetics will be prominent themes seen throughout exhibitors’ showcased products and the extensive, informative educational programme.

Spotlight On Skin Screen

With climate change impacting skin health and consumers becoming increasingly concerned about melanoma, acne, atopic dermatitis, and other conditions, the demand for products that protect and preserve skin health is on the rise.

This year’s Spotlight On Skin Screen will offer interactive experiences for attendees to touch and test ingredients specially formulated for skin protection, repair, maintenance, and alteration.

Exhibitors including Ashland Singapore, Bloomage Biotechnology Corp, Spec-Chem Industry, MyMicrobiome, IMCD APAC, Galaxy Surfactants, and Clariant Singapore will present and discuss their latest advancements in anti-inflammatory products, the microbiome, probiotics, skin lightening and brightening, blue light therapy, and more.

All showcased ingredients will compete for the prestigious in-cosmetics Asia Awards.

Looking towards future trends

This year’s refreshed Marketing Trends and Regulation Theatre – a space to discover the latest cosmetic industry marketing insights, trends, and regulations – will offer visitors updated, not-to-be-missed insights, with sessions delving into topics such as global beauty, wellness trends in APAC; K-Beauty and C-Beauty, artificial intelligence (AI), botanical resources, and more.

Adding to the vast educational opportunities on offer, the Formulation Lab will return to host live demonstrations on formulating finished products using exhibitor ingredients. In addition, the expert-led Technical Seminars will provide comprehensive overviews of key personal care ingredients shaping the APAC beauty market, their benefits, and scientific substantiation of product claims.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director at in-cosmetics Asia, said: “This year’s in-cosmetics Asia returns at an exciting time; the Asian beauty market is booming, and it’s more influential than ever before. The show will once again act as a key hub connecting the region with broader global markets and help to facilitate collaboration in cosmetic R&D.

In response to last year’s international attendance, we are enhancing our multilingual, digital, and social media promotion across Asia Pacific to attract a continent-wide audience to this R&D epicentre. With growing interest in the region, we are dedicated to making the event a truly multi-cultural gathering for attendees from across the APAC region and beyond.”

“We are thrilled to report the highest visitor and exhibitor satisfaction scores in the history of the show from the 2023 exhibition, reflecting our strongest performance yet. For the first time ever, we’re running out of space at the venue, which is indicative of the market’s flourishing status.

Stay tuned for a major announcement on an exciting collaboration that is set to elevate scientific advancements and shape the future of beauty and skincare.”

in-cosmetics Asia 2024 will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), in Bangkok, Thailand from 5-7 November 2024. The event will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s most comprehensive exhibition on manufacturing technologies, machinery, packaging, and ODM/OEM services for cosmetics, personal care, and dietary supplement products. For more information and to register to attend in-cosmetics Asia, visit here.

*1: https://www.euromonitor.com/article/top-beauty-trends-shaping-asia-pacific-insights-from-china-japan-india-and-south-korea
*2: Euromonitor International

ENDS

Notes to editors:

For further information please contact Olivia Evans or Frankie Banton at the in-cosmetics press office on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

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How R&D and marketing can work better… together!

Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science — Tue, 11 Jun 2024 19:10:37 +0000

The Research & Development (R&D) and Marketing departments of a cosmetic brand are both groups of highly professional and skilled individuals essential to success… yet their approach is from such different perspectives, issues are bound to arise over time and discussions can sometimes get heated.

How can you get the best performance out of each of your teams particularly when a challenge hits your multi-faceted project? Read on to find out…

The way marketing sees it…

Your marketing team is essential to:

• identify cosmetic product opportunities within the competitive marketplace;
• conduct market research to drive product creation and strategy from the concept stage;
• create effective marketing campaigns to be seen and heard by your target market;
• determine the right price and place for products to be available;
• monitor and grow product sales.

Your marketing department want a great product with outstanding ingredients and performance they can truly boast about so they can get consumers to love your brand as much as they do.

Surely a team of R&D specialists can mix some ingredients to give them what they’ve asked for?

The way R&D sees it…

Your R&D team is essential to:

• create safe, stable and efficacious cosmetic formulations that meet the needs of a brief;
• run regulatory checks and provide compliance information;
• conduct safety, stability and performance tesity and performance testing to prove all theoretical work;
• create an amazing product formula that can be scaled up easily.

Your R&D department have created a fantastic product that has a great shelf life and complies with the rules. Surely a team of marketing specialists can create advertising copy and make it leap off the shelves?

R&D and Marketing red flags

Exactly why do these two groups within the same company conflict? It could be:

• issues with the product development brief: marketing would have researched their target consumers well before finalising the brief, so its little wonder they aren’t keen on making changes to this very important document just because a Chemist says something is not possible, or Regulatory says a rule can’t be broken. However, those are the exact types of situations that commonly arise.

• clarify responsibilities: cosmetic product development is a multi-stage project where crossovers can (and often do) occur between various departments. For example, a formula could be totally inappropriate for certain types of packaging or dispensers – so this needs to be finalised early. Which department is in charge of finding the right packaging? An ingredient list can’t be finalised until a cosmetic formula is signed off, and even then, it’s not a certainty until minimum accepted stability tests have been completed. Who is wearing the risk if changes need to be made for quality reasons that impact printing, just to meet a tight schedule?

• micro-managing or over control: R&D need to respect the consumer knowledge the marketing department has, while marketing needs to respect the ingredient and formulation knowledge the R&D team brings to the table. Issues can occur when R&D tries to tell marketing how to write product copy or what consumers want. They can also occur when marketing tries to tell R&D how to adjust their formulas. Let each department know their strengths and weaknesses, don’t try to tell them how to do their job.

• workflow: certain stages of cosmetic product development can rely heavily on a department or even an individual. If too much pressure is applied, steps can be missed and human error can occur. It may be necessary, especially when multiple projects are under way, to check if there is sufficient experience and team members to prevent this from happening.

• understanding time and the process: conflicts will often arise where someone doesn’t understand the other person’s role well enough, or the required time to complete certain stages of a cosmetic development project. Does the R&D team understand the commercial reasons why a certain performance, claim or even feel is essential? Does the marketing team understand what stability testing is, and why it can’t be rushed? People can’t know what they don’t know; and if these two teams don’t know enough about the challenges that each faces when trying to create and sell a successful cosmetic product, there are sure to be issues down the line.

Ways to help R&D and marketing work better… together!

Try these approaches to smooth things over and get the best possible outcomes for your brand and cosmetic developments:

• consider the product development brief as a tool for communication. Yes, a fair bit of work has gone into its creation, however changes are often necessary. Work together to achieve the desired outcomes knowing these are bound by scientific principles and regulatory restrictions. At the same time, if the brief changes too much, it may no longer have its competitive edge. What ideas can everyone discuss to jump the hurdles rather than let them be roadblocks?

• explain issues using the right language. Explaining the issues with the current brief, or dilemmas with altering the brief, can help people from both sides of the company understand how to find a suitable solution. While scientific or regulatory discussions enable one to speak very specifically, they can make it sound like you’re trying to talk above another person’s intellect. On the other hand, creative explanations can sound like waffle to a pragmatic person. Both R&D and marketing personnel will need to find ways to highlight the issues they face with any changes needed using language the other team will properly understand.

• be open to brainstorming. Marketing are typically creative types; R&D are typically more rational. Brainstorming needs creativity before it can walk a rational path, so brainstorming can often be best started by the marketing team alone. With a few options on the board, the R&D team can then explore which idea has the best scientific (or regulatory) potential, and the teams can meet again.

• be flexible without breaking. You’ve discovered some changes need to be made to the product, the formula or the brief. Which changes can be made without losing sight of the original objective? Are there different ways of approaching a formula, outside of the box your are normally formulating within? Both teams may need to ask themselves: what is the closest acceptable alternative? Discussions could be fruitful once each department has used this approach.

• walk the walk a little. Invite the other department to spend time in yours. This can be tricky – let’s face it, everyone is so busy these days – but even just a small amount of time spent walking in each other’s ‘shoes’ could lead to massive gains in existing and future projects. I’m not suggesting a marketing person should suddenly start creating a cosmetic formula, but if they could watch a complex regulatory search get conducted, or see a failed stability test, they may suddenly have a greater appreciation for what is involved. Similarly, a chemist who gets to see market survey results and competitor analysis will better understand exactly why the brief has certain requests. When there is better understanding, teams are more congruent and resolutions more forthcoming.

You’re all on the one team

A market leading cosmetic product needs both a fantastic formula and effective marketing campaign. Achieving both is impossible when your R&D and marketing departments are more like opponents than teammates. Use the tips in this article to identify where issues have occurred in the past and implement strategies for solutions to overcome them in the future.

The results will be amazing products that truly get noticed, with the sales results and happy consumers you’ve been hoping for.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

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Sensory and aromatic essentials of cosmetic formulas

Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science — Wed, 01 May 2024 13:13:17 +0000

I often get asked: what is the difference between pharmaceutical formulation and cosmetic formulation? While the use of therapeutic actives and delivery is often cited as the most obvious variation, the other main distinction is that cosmetic formulas must be much more aesthetically pleasing to consumers than their medicinal counterparts.

When creating pharmaceutical formulas, we need to be concerned foremost with ensuring stable and effective delivery of a medicinal compound; how the product feels or smells is of much lesser importance.

When it comes to formulating cosmetics however, while the product must perform as required by a consumer, it must also provide a pleasing sensory experience to fulfill their expectations and meet often intangible desires.

Let’s look at some formulating tips to ensure your cosmetic formulas deliver on the sensory and aromatic aspects deemed desirable and essential by consumers.

Immediate sensory pleasure can build cosmetic brand loyalty

When a consumer tests a cosmetic product, they will usually apply a small portion to the back of their hand or palm, smell it, then rub it between their fingertips. See additional interesting consumer habits in this video. This can mean the difference between them purchasing a product or choosing to leave it on the shelf.

You can alter the immediate sensory pleasure of a cosmetic product by:

selecting emulsifiers that have a cushioning feeling without excessive rub in time;
choosing lipids with volatility or little play time for oily skin types;
using lipids with a buttery sensory for dry or sensitive skin products;
combining lipids to create a long spreading emolliency required by body products; and/or
adding gums that can alter the spread and feel of lipids on contact.

You may also find it useful to add cooling ingredients (such as menthol) or warming ingredients (such as zeolite) in certain cosmetic formulation types for an extra wow factor on application. See more tips on how to formulate for rapid results with this blog. Testing the immediate sensory experience of a product with a target consumer group can be an important aspect to see how well your cosmetic formula appeals to them from the very first introduction.

Lasting sensory appeal can support the activity of the cosmetic formula

The lasting sensory of a product needs to support the performance aspects of the cosmetic formula. In formulation terms, examples include:

formulas for dry, mature and sensitive skin types need a lingering emolliency on the skin, long after it has been applied;
cosmetics for hair care should have little to no residue shortly after being applied – volatile lipids can be a great way to achieve this result;
make up products need to spread well during application but then must not run into fine lines or move throughout the day;
formulas for oily skin types should remain relatively weightless from application – but usually benefit from the addition of humectants for non-greasy hydration.

Think about the needs of your target consumer: the lasting sensory profile of a cosmetic formula should support these needs to ensure the best results of the product over a prolonged period.

The aroma must appeal to the target market

The aroma of your cosmetic formula can be used to entice a consumer to test its sensory, and can reinforce the message you are trying to convey about the product. The smell of a cosmetic product has such a powerful impact, it can instantly appeal or deter a consumer from purchase! For example, if you are formulating for a:

sensitive skin market: fragrances and essential oils are often avoided.
budget market: cheap fragrances with simple aromas are usually the best choice.
natural market: essential oils or natural fragrances created from essential oil isolates are generally required.
luxury market: the aromatic profile must be highly specialized to your ideal consumer, whether it be from essential oils or fragrance materials.

When creating cosmetic formulas with essential oils, remember their input is generally too low to be of therapeutic benefit, and their inclusion must not be marketed based on their traditional medicinal uses. Some essential oils can support the performance of active ingredients by balancing the sebum levels of the skin or hair, although their use must be carefully considered if the aromatic profile is not appealing to your target market, despite their benefits.

Aromas can also be used to define a product range, impart an uplifting or relaxing mood, cover undesirable body odours or boost attraction. Learn how to choose aromas to suit your target market, including the use of essential oils, and incorporate them safely into your formulas.

Why sensory and aromatic principles are essential in cosmetic formulas

Consumers have a lot of choice when it comes to personal care. The immediate and long-term sensory aspects of a cosmetic formula, and especially its aroma, can be a make-or-break point when consumers are considering whether to purchase new cosmetic products. Consumers can’t often know just how well a product will work when they are first introduced to it at the shelf – but they can sense whether they like how a product smells and feels almost immediately. Use the tips in this article to ensure the sensory experience suits their preferences and boosts the positive experience of using your brands cosmetic products.

Remember to test the suitability of the sensory and aromatic profiles of your intended product before launching on members of your target market to ensure it hits the right note.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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Driving sustainable beauty – a view from the professionals

in-cosmetics Group — Wed, 10 Jan 2024 10:29:49 +0000

in-cosmetics Global recently headed to Hotel Fauchon in Paris for the second of its newly created Co-Lab events. A unique gathering that united industry leaders and professionals from the cosmetics and personal care sector, the day focused on one of the sector’s biggest challenges – sustainability. While insightful presentations were given by Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at THG Eco, Experienced Director of Regulatory Affairs, Tiphaine Daubert Macia, and green chemistry expert, Dr Barbara Olioso, attendees also had the chance to take part and share their insights in group sessions.

The event served as a nexus for the professionals, fostering collaboration and dialogue and allowing attendees to digest the topics, brainstorm, and share insights based on their own experiences. Discussions explored some of the key challenges and topics in the wider sustainable cosmetics net, from formulation techniques and consumer beliefs to cost management strategies. It was a day where minds met and ideas flourished, laying the groundwork for crafting a more sustainable future.

The customer is king; understanding consumer mindsets and beliefs

The industry professionals touched on the idea that consumer beliefs and opinions when it comes to the products they use can sometimes be at odds with the science behind the ingredients and formulations.

For example, the professionals discussed product efficacy in relation to consumer beliefs. In the realm of consumer preferences, there’s a widespread, unwavering – albeit unconscious – belief that the frothier and foamier the lather of a product, the more effective it is. Foaming agents are only synonymous with the effectiveness of cleaning products in the eyes of consumers. In reality, this frothy façade does not equate to a more efficient or effective cleaning process. Despite the science, consumers don’t want non-foaming shampoos.

The same applies to many areas within personal care and cosmetics, where perceptions of products or ingredients can hugely drive sales or vice versa. Attendees discussed the power of consumer perception and how it fuels a fascinating phenomenon in the market and through the supply chain. For formulators, this means treading the thin line between appeasing consumer opinion, whilst using the most effective and sustainable ingredients and processes to create products.

The ‘natural vs synthetics’ debate

As the ‘clean beauty’ phenomenon has grown in popularity, consumers are becoming increasingly interested in the different ingredients and elements that make up their cosmetics. This has sparked a lively debate around the use of natural vs synthetic (or chemical) ingredients in cosmetics. For example, which is safer? Which is more effective? However, the reality and general consensus gathered at the event is that natural ingredients can’t be used alone.

Industry professionals at the Co-Lab event came to a unanimous agreement that a harmonious blend of both must be achieved.

One of the experts added if the world’s population turned to only natural ingredients, the resource “would be quickly depleted.” She went on to explain the awareness of the alarming impacts that palm oil has on the environment. “We all said palm oil was bad, so we replaced it with coconut oil,” she explained. “But natural cannot feed into everything. When this resource runs out, it will follow the same path as palm oil.” The professionals discussed the questions posed around the sustainable credentials of products and concerns about overuse. And so, the cycle continues. Sourcing ingredients through a variety of mediums is needed to preserve our resources. Attendees delved into the merits and drawbacks of natural vs. chemical ingredients and processes, and how one will cease to exist without the other.

Sustainability from the comfort of your smartphone

Across the board, technology is driving change in the way that consumers interact with businesses and their products. More than ever, customers are seeking an easy and convenient shopping experience, and this is being fuelled by apps.

While there currently isn’t a single, unified system for communicating sustainability credentials to customers, a variety of new consumer apps are changing the landscape. Apps such as YUKA and Think Dirty allow consumers to instantly compare beauty and personal care products, decipher ingredients, and understand their potential health impact.

Our professionals discussed the benefits of these sustainability apps, as well as the concerns and potential pitfalls, highlighting a possible disconnect between the consumer and the science. Though the apps are becoming increasingly popular with consumers, and evidently very engaging, the professionals questioned the scientific prowess behind the app data. Georgios Stamatas, Scientific Director / Health & Nutrition – Cosmetics & Hygiene at SGS, commented that “While scientific evidence is important, most of time it is not enough on its own to impact consumer opinions and behaviours.”

Attendees debated the use of these apps, their concerns, and what it may mean from a wider industry perspective. On the one hand, it’s great news that many consumers are using the technology and resources available to educate and inform themselves about the sustainable credentials of products. However, there needs to be a unified, scientific approach on offer, which is easy to use and able to keep consumers engaged in the same way. Christine Ansari, VP of Development at CTK Cosmetics, advised while apps can be effective and reliable when it comes to assessing food qualities, caution should be exercised when applying the same approach to cosmetics.

Packaging; the unsung hero of sustainable cosmetics

The heart and soul of the beauty industry lies in ensuring a positive experience for consumers in the way their cosmetics products make them look and feel. As a result, packaging is the all-too-often forgotten element – quickly discarded by the consumer, and frequently considered nothing more than a marketing tool for brands.

However, as we move towards a circular economy, the spotlight will firmly be focused on recycling and industry waste. As such it is expected that sustainable packaging will be a must-have, not a nice to have. According to the British Beauty Council, 95% of all cosmetics packaging is thrown away after its initial use. To make matters worse, most of this is single-use plastic packaging that can take up to 500 years to decompose.

Our professionals discussed how plastic has always been king, but the industry often overlooks alternative materials, such as aluminium. According to Stanford University, producing recycled aluminium requires 95% less energy than making it from raw materials. It’s also considered “endlessly recyclable”, compared to plastics which can take centuries to decompose. One of the experts at the event commented that “before plastics, it was glass and aluminium” and everyone was in “better health”.

Unfortunately, it’s not necessarily as simple as just switching to more sustainable packing materials like aluminium. The professionals noted that not all materials are suitable for specific formulations, as some can adversely affect the shelf-life and stability of the final product.

Considering the wider picture of sustainable packaging, materials are by no means the only factor. An easy fix to reduce cosmetics waste and cut costs across manufacturing and distribution processes, is to simply reduce packaging size by removing empty space. Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at THG Eco describes how developing a smaller product can mean spending significantly less on transportation costs, as well as reducing emissions.

However, this can create challenges in producing the ‘premium look’, as consumers often associate larger packaging with luxury products. Not to mention, amid a global cost-of-living crisis and the rise of ‘shrinkflation’, consumers may be sceptical or mistrusting of products which appear to be smaller – even if it’s simply reduced packaging.

The push for greater transparency around sustainable ingredients and packaging is also causing logistical issues. Where brands are having to add additional information and credentials onto their packaging is often at direct odds with the needs to reduce packaging size.

Formulating a better future

Moving forward – and as part of the drive towards a circular economy – it’s essential the industry works as a collective to rewrite the narrative around beauty products, and in doing so, reframe the consumer mindset and current expectations.

However, we can only achieve this change in perception if brands prioritise simplicity and transparency in their communications with the customer. Today’s modern consumer typically desires the opportunity to be educated on their favourite products and brands. Therefore, beauty businesses must provide their customers with access to relevant scientific information, in an easily digestible format and platform. The industry professionals agreed that the key driver of change lies in unification and standardisation.

From a logistical perspective, brands and cosmetics organisations will increasingly need to consider all elements of their products. No longer will factors such as packaging be able to go relatively unnoticed – despite their environmental impact and potential for mitigation.

The success of this pioneering event in Paris, served as a poignant reminder that as consumers continue to make more conscientious product choices, brands in the cosmetics and personal care industry must adapt to meet these changing needs.

in-cosmetics Global returns from 16-18 April 2024 at the Porte de Versailles in Paris. For more information or to explore our Sustainability Zone, visit us here.

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How to create the perfect cosmetic formula

Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science — Thu, 26 Oct 2023 16:29:44 +0000

Just how do you create that perfect cosmetic formula? This blog will tell you how, in 5 simple steps, to go from concept to approved samples, whilst ensuring the cosmetic formula is exactly what the product development brief has called for.

Cosmetic formulation step 1: Identify the critical elements of the product development brief

The product development brief acts as an informative tool to be used by the concept developer and the Cosmetic Chemist so that it’s clear the type of product that needs to be developed. The brief should describe in words what the concept developer wants the Cosmetic Chemist to create, and ideally be accompanied by comparison samples to demonstrate how the product should feel, smell and/or perform.

The development brief contains the how, what and why of the product to be created; the Cosmetic Chemist’s job is to capture the theory of what the concept developer wants, and put it in a bottle or jar for them.

Critical information needed includes:

key product details, such as form of the product, required aesthetics, company philosophy, pricing models and ingredients to specifically include or avoid.
packaging requirements, and ideally samples of the finished product packaging.

Cosmetic formulation step 2: Determine essential ingredients and method required

Once you have identified the form of the product that needs to be created, you can then:

determine the appropriate ingredients to build the formula, for example:
- o the functional ingredients, to achieve the function of the product;
- o the structural ingredients, to ensure the right form and viscosity;
- o the supportive ingredients, selected specifically to ensure long term stability;
- o active ingredients, to enhance the performance of the product; and
- o added extra ingredients, the ingredients you may need to add to help improve the marketing story of the product.
determine appropriate inputs (%w/w) of each of the ingredients to meet the functionality, performance and budget needs of the cosmetic formula.

‘phase’ materials together.
prepare a method that suits all materials selected.

It is at this step that you should start contacting cosmetic ingredient suppliers to clarify any compatibilities or processing information, along with pricing, minimum order quantities and lead time on the orders.

Cosmetic formulation step 3: Cross check selected ingredients and amounts against the product development brief.

It is crucial that you cross-check your selections against any limitations of the product development brief, or ingredients the concept developer specifically does not want you to use. This is also a good time to double check all ingredient selections for any specific pH, regulatory or incompatibility requirements.

Use the brief as a checklist to make certain your formulation is addressing all requirements, including budget and time constraints. Make any changes to your formulation selections if required to theoretically fulfill all requirements of the brief. You can now also work on potential pricing of the finished product.

Once this information is confirmed and theoretically suitable, you would order samples of the materials so you can move to the next step: creating product samples.

Cosmetic formulation step 4: Prepare your samples and send out for feedback.

When all of your raw material samples have arrived, you can now head into the lab and prepare your first sample and see how well your theory translates into a finished product.

The first sample is always the worst sample, but gives you a practical sample of the theoretical formula you have prepared. Once you have a tangible product, you can then adjust the theoretical formula and prepare further samples to refine the sample and make it feel, look and otherwise perform as specified by the brief.

It is quite common to need to review your formula and prepare more samples at least 1-6 times to meet the needs of a specific brief when you are experienced at formulating. If you are just new to formulating, do not be surprised if you need to adjust your theoretical formula and prepare revised samples at least 10 or more times.

Once you send your first completed sample to the concept developer (remember, this is likely to be about your fifth revision); they will provide you with feedback from which you can make further adjustments. It is common to need to revise two more times (yes, that means another 3-10 samples each round, depending on your experience), before the final formula is ‘approved,’ or ‘signed off’.

Cosmetic formulation step 5: Finalise paperwork

Once the sample has been confirmed as suitable (signed off) by the concept developer, you are ready to finalise the paperwork. This step involves writing up the final version of the formula with amounts, phase details and method of manufacture. It should also include preparation of a compliant ingredient list and compiling technical data sheets to confirm efficacy of any actives or functional ingredients.

Unless you work for the manufacturing company who will make the final product, you are not able to confirm price, but should be able to estimate what each unit is likely to cost.

The cosmetic formulation process overview:

Here is an overview of the process, steps involved, and likely time taken. Always allow a little extra time in case there are logistical hold-ups or other untimely (and usually uncontrollable) delays.

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The phage story: the natural solution for blemish-prone skin

Karen Young, The Young Group — Tue, 20 Dec 2022 01:29:58 +0000

There is so much chatter about microbiomes, pre/pro/post biotics and all the flora and fauna that is part of our skin’s eco system. I’m fascinated and overwhelmed. There’s a great deal we still don’t know or understand in the category. It’s sometimes challenging to separate fact from myth. If we, the beauty experts, are confused and baffled, imagine what’s happening with the consumer. Having said that: there is research that is very promising and very compelling. I’d like to share some of it.

Acne is the most common skin affliction globally, and many cases are driven by a bacterium found normally on our skin called Cutibacterium acnes.

More than 85% of teenagers experience acne in some form. It may be clogged pores, painful pimples, or, sometimes, hard, deep lumps on the face, neck, shoulders, chest, back and upper arms.

Adult acne is also a serious problem.

Many treatments are available, but they often include harsh ingredients that strip and irritate skin and cause sun sensitivity. Oral and topical antibiotics are sometimes prescribed. However, they come with their own side effects and concerns about antibiotic resistance, which is an increasing concern for all of us.

There is good news: Bacteriophages (or phages), the good viruses existing naturally on our skin that target and destroy harmful bacteria, are being put to work to restore balanced, clear skin. Phages have been around for billions of years and may be the most abundant thing you’ve never heard of. There are thousands of known phage varieties, each specialized to eliminate only one or a few types of bacteria.

An estimated 30 billion phages pass in and out of our bodies every day.

Phages are found wherever bacteria are present. They are natural microorganisms that are harmless to humans and only interested in targeting bacteria. An imbalance of these phages on our bodies is associated with obesity, bowel disorders, acne and other diseases.

A French-Canadian microbiologist named Félix d’Hérelle first published reports about the bacteria-killing viruses for which he coined the term ‘bacteriophage’ in 1917. Frederick Twort, an English bacteriologist, was conducting similar research at the same time.

Throughout the early 20th century, phage therapy centers and commercial phage production plants opened across Europe and the United States, treating people for dysentery, cholera, bubonic plague and other bacterial illnesses. Despite early successes, phage therapy fell out of popularity in Western medicine as antibiotics became readily available. For decades, antibiotics were the go-to treatment for all things bacterial…until they quit working.

With antibiotic-resistant bacteria becoming a global health crisis, scientists and other experts are again turning to bacteriophages to manage bacterial infections that don’t respond to other measures.

The food industry quickly jumped on this: It now commonly uses phage sprays to prevent bacterial contamination. Phage formulations applied to food packaging and the food itself (including meat, dairy, fruits and vegetables) control the growth of foodborne pathogens, including Salmonella, Listeria and E.coli, to name a few. Many of us have very likely been eating these phages that keep food fresh from farm to fork and curb the occurrence of foodborne illnesses.

How do phages rescue blemished skin? Those with blemished skin can use a product containing DermaPhage^® CA, a topical solution uniquely targeted to Cutibacterium acnes. Application on the affected area 2 times per day for 7 days will frequently show significant improvement. Blemishes are reduced with remarkable change in both redness and inflammation. There are no side effects, no danger to “healthy” skin, nothing harsh or irritating.

The products do need to be refrigerated to keep the phages stable and healthy, as it is a natural ingredient.

Applications for DermaPhage^® CA include facial and body care products, a sprayable formula for use on bedding and linens, as well as laundry detergents and additives and more.

This new approach to target the bacteria contributing to blemish flare-ups is a game changer.

Bacteriophages
-exist naturally on our skin
-are sustainability sourced and naturally occurring
-have been part of nature for billions of years
-are harmless to humans and have no side effect
-are very effective in targeting certain bacterial skin problems
-are your body’s friend!

While I’m a big fan of this technology, as well as all the work that is currently being done on skin microbiomes and skin health, we have a long way to go to clarify and simplify the topic for beauty consumers. It’s not only confusing, there’s a great deal of misleading information that’s difficult to assess.

But it’s progress! Working with nature and finding skin friendly solutions to skin challenges should always be our industry’s goal.

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Clearing phytotoxicity for safe natural ingredients

Dr. Robert Shengkui Hu, Investor | Advisor | Consultant — Thu, 10 Nov 2022 14:50:04 +0000

In a recent contribution, we discussed how skincare actives can be derived from food and absorbed through skin. This application is logical, since if we consume a species as food, then the chance that we encounter phytotoxicity when applying it as a cosmetic is smaller.

Because many plants produce toxic substances in self-defense, it is essential to understand a plant’s phytotoxins thoroughly before using that particular plant in food or cosmetics. Selecting cosmetic actives based on known food-safe plants reduces the probability of encountering phytotoxins; however, just because a substance is safe to eat does not mean it is safe to apply to skin. This is because, when applied to skin, these substances encounter different environmental conditions than when consumed as food. The most significant difference between the food environment and the skin environment is the prevalence of sunlight when plant-based actives are applied to skin.

Phytotoxicology is the study of plant poisons, which are part of a plant’s defense system. Most of the poisonous higher plants are angiosperms (flowering plants), though only a small percentage of them are recognized as poisonous. Poisonous plants can be classified by the chemical nature of their toxic constituents, their phylogenetic relationships, their botanical characteristics, etc.; however, a classification based on toxic effects is most useful to consumers. According to this approach, poisonous plants can be classified into four families:

Plants that are poisonous when eaten.
Plants that are poisonous upon contact.
Plants that produce airborne allergies.
Plants that produce photosensitization.

In the cosmetic industry, we usually start our search for plant-based actives within species that have been proven safe by the food industry. As such, poisonous plants in families 1-3 are not considered for cosmetic applications. In the food industry, plant ingredients are not exposed to excessive sunlight before they are consumed, so photosensitization is not usually an item of concern there. It is, however, of great importance when plant ingredients are used on skin, particularly for skin applications where sunlight exposures are expected.

Photosensitization is caused by non-thermal-reactive molecules called photosensitizers (PSs). While these molecules are harmless in the absence of sunlight, they display cytotoxic activities under light irradiation. Because of this behavior, their potential toxicities can escape detection until they are used in applications where light exposures are present.

Herbal plants and plant extracts are natural compounds that are generally regarded as green when compared to synthetic chemicals. Because of their environmental sustainability and reduced side effects, natural substances and herbal actives are becoming the preferred choice to satisfy many cosmetic performance requirements. Understanding the phototoxicity of plant compounds, particularly compounds which are otherwise safe for food applications, is critical to successfully adopting these compounds as cosmetic active ingredients.

To demonstrate the mode of action of a PS, the photophysical and photochemical background of photosensitization is explained by way of a classical Jablonski diagram (Figure 1). When a PS is at ground state, it has no dark toxicity. When exposed to light of appropriate wavelengths, the PS is excited into the S1 state, from which it can fluoresce and return to ground state or undergo ISC to the T1 state. When at the T1 state, the PS can phosphoresce and return to ground state, react directly with other biomolecules (Type I photosensitization), or transfer the excited energy to ground state oxygen (Type II photosensitization). During both Type I and Type II photosensitization, toxic compounds, primarily reactive oxygen species (ROS), are generated; these compounds can then trigger a deadly cascade of cells.

Figure 1: The Jablonski diagram and photosensitization processes.

As such, photosensitization needs to be considered when selecting plant-based actives for cosmetic applications. Some common plants with no dark toxicity contain potent PS molecules; in the absence of light, these plant materials are very beneficial as food or cosmetic ingredients (Table 1). However, because of their known PS components, natural cosmetic ingredients derived from these plants should be limited to applications where no significant light exposures are expected.

Table 1: Plants and their photosensitizer ingredients.

To exemplify the importance of considering the photosensitivity of food ingredients before using them in cosmetics, let us take the food colorant curcumin as an example. Curcumin is labeled as E100 and found in the rhizome of Curcuma longa. The class of curcuminoids consists of linear diarylheptanoids, which are themselves composed of four aglycons—dicinnamoylmethane, curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin (Figure 2). Curcumins have a versatile pharmacological activity spectrum and are shown to provide many health benefits when consumed as food. When used as cosmetic ingredients, similar antioxidizing performances have also been reported. However, because of the well-known photosensitivity of the curcuminoid structure, curcumins or Curcuma longa extract should not be recommended for cosmetic applications related to sun exposure; the resulting buildup of toxic compounds could damage or even kill cells.

Figure 2: Structures of curcuminoids.

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Formulating with cosmetic acids

Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science — Wed, 19 Oct 2022 16:19:37 +0000

Cosmetic acids can provide accelerated skin renewal and a revitalized appearance. However, because of the way they work, and the low pH usually required to ensure they are effective, there are usually strict regulations around the inputs in cosmetics and personal care to ensure safe consumer use, particularly when in ‘at home’ skin care formulations.

This blog will take a closer look at the categories of cosmetic acids, their pros and cons, and how they should be added to formulations.

How do cosmetic acids work?

Cosmetic acids work by dissolving the intercellular ‘cement’ that holds the very outer layer of the skin cells together, and thereby encourage a chemical exfoliation effect of the oldest epidermal cells to reveal fresher, more vibrant and softer skin cells beneath.

Cosmetic acids can be used to reduce pigmentation, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce congestive skin disorders and visually improve skin brightness.

Formulating with acids – important considerations

Most cosmetic acids, unless particularly stated by suppliers, require a low pH, around 3.5, to be ‘bioavailable’ and effective. So, what about formulas ‘boasting’ a high input of acids, where the final pH is around 4.5 or even 5?

When an acid is added to a formula, it pulls the pH down. The more acid that is added, the lower that pH becomes. When a company ‘adds’ a lot of acid to a formula, but then the final product is pH adjusted back up, they are effectively turning the acid to its inactive salt form.

Even partially neutralized, the portion that has been neutralized may as well not be present at all. This means that any preservatives, gums, emulsifiers or even surfactants that are intended to be added to the formula with these acids present must be compatible with the low pH required to ensure their effectiveness. Even though the formulas have a low pH, a preservative is still needed in a formula anytime its pH is above 3.

Regulatory restrictions on hydroxy acids

The main alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids are regulated by input – these limits are country dependent and can change at any time. Before formulating with acids, you need to search the regulatory limits to ensure safe and suitable used in your cosmetic formulations. Watch this video for a general overview of cosmetic acids used in skincare formulas.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Common alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, several fruit acids and even the acid from sugar cane extract.

Glycolic acid is undoubtedly the most well know, but also the most irritating. With a molecular weight of just 76 g/mol, it is extremely small. Because of its low molecular weight, it is able to penetrate the outer layers of the epidermis and this is why it creates significant irritation.

‘Fruit acid’ materials are usually based on selected fruit extracts combined with citric and lactic acid, combined with naturally occurring or added glycolic acid to improve their performance. Watch how to make a fruit acid peel here.

Mandelic acid is a trending AHA at the moment – it is less irritating than glycolic acid, but still has great efficacy, and it has been shown to be particularly effective on hyperpigmented and even darker skin tones. Watch how to make a mandelic acid serum here.

Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA)

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that is popular amongst acne sufferers. It is much milder than glycolic acid, but still provides effective keratolytic effects.

To use salicylic acid in a formula, you usually need to dissolve it first in ethanol, or in larger proportions of propylene glycol or propanediol, and ensure the pH remains low (around 3.5 – 3.8, if regulations permit) to prevent it from recrystallizing in your formula. Watch how to make a salicylic acid face scrub here.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)

Polyhydroxy acids include galactose, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. They have multiple hydroxyl groups on the molecule, making them effective humectants with a much larger molecular weight and lower irritancy than AHAs.

They will tend to pull the pH of a formula down, so generally need to be ‘buffered’ with a small input of sodium citrate, otherwise they can cause long term stability and viscosity issues within the formulation.

Watch how to buffer a formula with gluconolactone with our video hyaluronic acid gel with sodium PCA.

How to use cosmetic acids in skincare formulas

It is not a simple case of ‘adding’ an active acid to a skincare formula and expecting it to work. Remember to:

check regulatory inputs specific to your region;
check the final pH required;
determine how to add the acid;
include stability enhancing ingredients; and
monitor stability closely over time using accelerated and real time samples.

There is no doubt using cosmetic acids can boost the performance of a personal care regime, but the formulas need to be created with careful checks and measures to ensure safety, stability and efficacy. Find out more by watching the links provided in this blog or study our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation for comprehensive training to be confident in formulating with cosmetic acids.

Happy formulating!

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