Consumers, now more than ever, want personal care products that really deliver on their performance and promises. So how can you make sure you are choosing the best active for your cosmetic formulas?

Read on to learn tips and tricks to get the required results by choosing the best active ingredients specific to your product and cosmetic formula needs.

1. Review efficacy data of cosmetic actives carefully.

Cosmetic ingredient suppliers will usually provide detailed information showing how their active ingredients perform under certain conditions, which should include:

• how much of the active ingredient was used to get the desired results;
• how long it took to achieve those results;
• how often product was applied;
• the product form used to deliver the active ingredient.

You will need to review all of these items carefully when comparing different active ingredients and the relevance of the efficacy data to your desired use. For example, take particular note of:

• how many applications per day or week are required to get the results: if you are formulating a once a week face mask, the results may not be relevant.
• how much active was used: an active ingredient needed at 5%w/w to get similar results as an active used at 2%w/w may have formulation and cost implications making one active more desirable than another.
• how long the results took to be obtained: usually the faster you can see the desired results, the better customer satisfaction and brand loyalty.
• the type of formula the active was used in: if you are using the active in a gel-based serum, you may get very different results if the in vivo efficacy data was obtained from using an o/w cream.

Taking a critical look at these above considerations can help you identify which active ingredients have better suitability for your specific cosmetic formulation type and needs.

2. Actives from different suppliers, even with the same INCI, can have very different results.

The efficacy data you obtain from your cosmetic ingredient supplier is very specific to their ingredient.

This means that if you source a cosmetic active from another supplier, even if it has the same INCI or chemical name, it may be a different molecular weight, or may have used different extraction or manufacturing methods and therefore give very different results.

When using efficacy data from a cosmetic ingredient supplier, make sure you are sourcing your ingredients from that same supplier. What may seem like the same material from a different supplier could give a totally different outcome; see some examples of how this may impact your formulation and selections in this video.

3. Check pH, temperature and method of addition.

The cosmetic ingredient supplier information should provide you with details of:

• any charge incompatibilities, if relevant;
• pH of stability for that ingredient in a finished product. Be careful – this may differ from the pH of the ingredient in its raw form and what is written in its technical data or MSDS;
• how the active ingredient should be added; for example, if it should be added in the cool down phase or with heat, and if you need to use high or low shear processing to incorporate it into the formula;
• any other incompatibilities; if relevant.

If you use a great active ingredient in an incompatible formula, add at the wrong temperature, use the wrong shear or have a final pH that is not compatible, the material simply won’t work.

If you have the choice of active ingredients where one has broader compatibilities than another, then that would typically be the better active to choose.

You may also need to use a sodium citrate buffer to help stabilise the final pH of a formula within a tight range. Watch this video which explains how to select the best active along with an example of stabilising an active using a sodium citate buffer.

4. Consider delivery and penetration.

It is important to make sure your active ingredients get to the site where they can provide the best results. For example:

• oils and proteins provide the best results on the outer layers of the epidermis;
• humectants not only enhance delivery of active ingredients to the mid-layers of the epidermis, but also provide their best results when there; and
• very small molecular weight actives such as peptides will need to penetrate to the deeper layers of the epidermis to get the best results.

Make sure your cosmetic formulas incorporate penetration enhancers if deeper delivery is needed.

5. Understand how the active ingredients in cosmetic formulas work for best results.

When you understand how the active ingredients work, the depth of delivery they need, and their mode of action, you can make the best ingredient selections. This means making the best cosmetic ingredient selections for the whole formula, not just the active ingredients.

Functional ingredients like emulsifiers can support barrier protection, when chosen correctly. Osmolytes and amphiphilic formulas can enhance delivery. Which is needed for the actives you have chosen and the site of activity?

Understanding how your active ingredients work, along with their incompatibilities and site of activity, is fundamental in making the best choices for all ingredients in your cosmetic formulas. This is what ensures your final formula, and choice of actives, will have the best possible results.

When choosing the best active for your cosmetic formulas, make sure you read supplier data carefully and apply all the rules in this article to make the best active ingredient selection and get the best performance from your cosmetic formulas.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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(Sponsored Content)

In this exclusive interview, we caught up with Brian Ecclefield, the Founder of  Validated Claim Support, who shares his thoughts and insights into the testing market, harmoniziation and disruptive trends as well as a secret very few people know…

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Sunscreen is exploding currently. Can you share some insights into what is going on in the field, especially with regards to testing and perhaps the role retailers and influencers are playing?

Exploding is a great adjective here, as that is exactly what sunscreen is doing at the moment.  There are numerous articles regarding underperforming sunscreens on the market, and social media is volatile with back and forth assertations and allegations.  

The global market has had a major push towards “Mineral Sunscreens” which means those which contain only Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  “Organic SPF Filters” have been somewhat vilified in a variety of markets due to their potential for degradation and interaction with the human body and the environment as a whole (as an easy example think “Reef Safe”).  

From a chemistry perspective, “Organic” or “Chemical” sunscreen filters are extremely effective and often backed by decades of bioavailability and safety studies at the global level.  Zinc and Titanium tend to have a fairly limited “efficacy range,” and only in the best formulations at extremely high quantities can the two ingredients successfully achieve water resistant SPF 50+ results. 

That said, they seem to be the two ingredients that find their way into the newest formulations, particularly within the US Market which has extremely limited filter choices due to FDA (over) regulation of the space.

With so much regulatory scrutiny and consumer skepticism, what does the future hold for cosmetic claims? Global harmonization in claims acceptability?

The market at large is currently “adapting” to push the boundaries of these “mineral” filters as far as possible, and that is often being done with “SPF Boosters” such as Butyloctyl Salicylate (BOS).

SPF Boosters are “quasi-regulated” and they do not have to appear in the “Active Ingredients” section of a sunscreen’s label despite the fact that they have a clear and direct impact upon the final SPF (the same formula with and without BOS will have a higher SPF once the BOS is added). 

Until regulatory can catch up with the “booster trend” consumers need to stay wary of “100% Mineral” SPF Label Claims, as they may be misleading since there are non mineral ingredients impacting the formula.  Chemically, BOS is very similar to Octisalate, which is an approved SPF active ingredient in most markets.

Regulatory needs to make decisions as to “inactive ingredients that are impacting the formulations performance” (which sounds to me like the definition of an “Active Ingredient!!!!!”). 

Unfortunately this will likely not be done in a “harmonized” manner as you have noted.  The EU and the US tend to go their own ways on Sunscreen and Cosmetic Regulation, and for a while with the MoCRA initiative in the US it looked like we could have moved towards some harmonization, however the current administration is in the process of “doing something serious” at the FDA. 

I think a good place to start would be “action” in the local regulatory zones which is decisive and complete.  As an example – ISO is working towards new international standards for hybrid in vivo/in vitro SPF results.  This would be a huge boon for consumer safety and testing ethics as participants would be receiving 95% or more of a reduction in delivered radiation during the efficacy/performance tests.  

 

In your opinion, what disruptive trends or technology in efficacy will render today’s methodology obsolete five or ten years down the line? 

I just mentioned the “Hybrid SPF Testing” element, which is fully known as Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy or HDRS.  Without getting into the deep science, this method will allow a much faster and safer SPF evaluation that doesn’t require directly sunburning the participants.  

This method is going to absolutely revolutionise clinical testing and claims, as for the first time it directly combines both in vivo UVB considerations as well as combining the reflectance technique which will provide insights that can’t be recognized through changes of the skin alone.  

This new method could* lead to the harmonization that you alluded to in question 3 – if we can get a formal, adopted, and approved method through ISO and FDA it will revolutionise the industry, making these tests faster and more efficient.  It will take away a lot of the variables that make the current test models so difficult, as there is no longer going to be a “subjective” assessment of the redness in the skin.  

Sunscreen testing will be utterly revolutionised – and it will actually become a much easier test to implement.  This will open up the competition and allow more players to compete in a healthy manner within the extremely niche claims and efficacy space, and it will also allow brands to conduct more of their own internal preliminary pilot research.

Can you share a secret about cosmetic testing very few people know?

Suncreen testing involves actively dosing people with UV radiation to a point where you illicit a redness response on the skin of the back.  Dumbing that down – it requires lightly sunburning 10 (and often more) people at a time.

These people also have to have a fair complexion, so sunscreen testing in upon itself is often only done on light skinned individuals.  If you see a product with an SPF that says it was “tested on all skintypes” it is definitely not talking about Fitzpatrick types, at least as far as the direct SPF efficacy is concerned.

A related one based on the above – “tested on all skintypes” OR “suitable for all skintypes” can actually mean 2 very different things.  It can mean that a product is tested on all of the Fitzpatrick skintypes, with Skintype I being the lightest and Skintype VI being the darkest, but it can also mean it is tested on a population where at least some of the individuals identify as “oily, dry, and/or combination skin.” 

 

This is a very common claim, and it’s  just about impossible to determine what categorization of “skin types” that the brand is referring to regarding the specific product data without having the test results in hand.

About our Interviewee: Brian Ecclefield, Founder, Validated Claim Support

Brian has spent the last 17 years custom developing in vivo clinical studies to help international brands build their personal care and cosmetic product portfolios. 

In 2018, he founded Validated Claim Support in the Testing, Inspection, Certification, and Compliance (TICC) space as an alternative to the “CRO Status Quo,” offering an ethical, transparent, and technologically secured solution for the modern Personal Care manufacturer.

Brian is heavily involved with consumer education and protection as it pertains to product label claims.  He has helped poke holes in misguided marketing language as an Expert Witness for cosmetic ingredients. 

By ensuring that end users gain a better understanding about what cosmetic and personal care claims actually mean and the value of doing studies the right way, Brian hopes to help make skincare clinical testing more transparent and CROs more accountable – leaving the industry a safer place for everyone.

Validated specializes in 4 main types of clinical testing to support claims:

• Expert Objective Clinical Grading
• Subjective User Perception
• Biophysical Instrumentation
• Clinical Before and After Photography

Onto the product/service we provide:

Validated Claim Support is a Skincare Clinical Testing Laboratory that conducts in-vivo (consumer/human) studies to determine how well products work.  We are decidedly “clinically” focused – we don’t do stand alone at home consumer perception studies, and our expertise is measurable endpoints – think clinical studies where participants, not @ home user consumer perception.

We conduct Expert Grading of visible changes in the skin and hair, biophysical instrumentation for things like hydration via electroconductivity, skin firmness and elasticity, surface sebum content, skin colour, skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and a wide range of other endpoint as well.

We test skincare, medical devices, OTC level ingredients, and a wide range of cosmetics (we also get into nutraceuticals but that’s less directly relevant). We’re FDA Registered and Inspected, and we ran over 70 completely custom clinical studies last year – many of which were for brands who you’ve already hosted. 

I founded VCS in 2018 as an “Alternative to the CRO (Clinical Research Organization) Status Quo” after having left two different laboratories over what I’ll call “unreconcilable ethical differences,” which proved to be extremely well founded. 

The owners of both companies have been in international news for fraud, and from my perspective, there is a very good reason.  I can tell you this, with 100% certainty. . . Skincare claims data that looks too good to be true is most definitely too good to be true!  That’s not to say that there aren’t highly effective products out there, but nothing is 100% effective 100% of the time.  This is a whole exciting topic in upon itself, and I’d be happy to chat more about it at a later time. 

Find out more about Validated Claim Support here

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical!

Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vyrtus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy with speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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This article integrates recent scientific findings, including the expanded hallmarks of ageing, with global industry trends present at this year’s in-cosmetics Global to update the understanding of skin longevity in 2025, after examining intrinsic and extrinsic ageing factors, cellular and molecular mechanisms, and innovations in active ingredients.

Emphasizing a shift from anti-ageing to healthy ageing and resilience, this review shows how targeting biological hallmarks can transform skincare toward sustainable skin health.

Biological foundations of skin aging

Skin ageing is a multifactorial process influenced by intrinsic (genetic, cellular, and molecular) and extrinsic (environmental) factors. Intrinsic ageing involves accumulating cellular damage and declining regenerative capacity, while extrinsic ageing stems mainly from UV radiation (photoaging), pollution, and oxidative stress.

The concept of skin longevity, prolonging skin health and function rather than merely reversing visible signs of ageing, has become a global trend in the cosmetics industry in 2025.

This paradigm shift aligns with advances in the biology of aging, particularly the identification and expansion of the “Hallmarks of aging”, which provide a mechanistic blueprint to target ageing at its roots. This article integrates new scientific findings and industry innovations, offering a holistic and biologically informed roadmap for next-gen skincare products.

From theory to skincare applications: Active ingredients lead the innovation wave

The Cosmetics industry’s momentum was showcased at in-cosmetics Global 2025, where the most promising longevity-focused innovations were recognized.

Solabia Group earned the Gold Award in the Innovation Zone for its green biotechnology-derived “pro-longevity” ingredient, which demonstrated strong scientific backing. The Spanish ingredient manufacturer, Vytrus Biotech followed with a Silver Award for a 100% natural active inspired by “Fasting for skin longevity”, designed to boost cellular repair and regeneration.

These groundbreaking developments illustrate how biotechnology and molecular biology, inspired by natural mechanisms, are setting a new standard in active ingredients designed for long-term skin health, targeting these hallmarks:

• Biotech-derived actives: Compounds inspired by natural longevity mechanisms, such as fasting-mimicking molecules, enhance repair and regeneration.
• Antioxidants and mitochondrial support: Ingredients reduce oxidative stress and improve mitochondrial function.
• Senolytics and senomorphics: Emerging actives selectively eliminate or modulate senescent cells.
• Epigenetic modulators: Compounds restore youthful gene expression.
• Proteostasis enhancers: Molecules improve protein folding and degradation.

The expanded “Hallmarks of Ageing”

Advances in ageing research, particularly the “Hallmarks of Ageing”, significantly deepen our understanding of skin aging, identifying twelve interconnected hallmarks that define ageing at the molecular level.

The Hallmarks of ageing refer to biological changes that occur in our skin over time as we age:

1. Genomic instability: DNA damage impairs cell function and promotes senescence.
2. Telomere attrition: Telomere shortening limits cell replication.
3. Epigenetic alterations: Dysregulated gene expression affects skin cell identity.
4. Loss of proteostasis: Impaired protein folding and clearance disrupts cell health.
5. Deregulated nutrient sensing: Altered metabolism affects skin cells.
6. Mitochondrial dysfunction: Declining mitochondrial efficiency increases ROS and reduces energy.
7. Cellular senescence: Senescent cells secrete inflammatory factors that accelerate aging.
8. Stem cell exhaustion: Depletion of skin stem cells limits regeneration.
9. Altered intercellular communication: Disrupted signaling impairs tissue homeostasis.
10. Chronic inflammation (inflammaging): Persistent low-grade inflammation damages skin.
11. Disabled macroautophagy: Reduced autophagy limits cellular renewal.
12. Dysbiosis: Microbiome imbalance affects the skin barrier and immunity.

These interconnected hallmarks collectively undermine skin integrity and function. Each hallmark meets three criteria: it increases with normal ageing, experimental modulation affects ageing rates, and targeted intervention can slow or reverse age-related decline.

Recent research has expanded the universe of ageing hallmarks, providing a mechanistic blueprint for understanding and targeting the root causes of ageing at the cellular and tissue levels, and has expanded the list from 12 to 16, with four additional hallmarks:

13. Mechanical ageing: This refers to the wear and tear the skin undergoes from repetitive facial movements, gravity, and loss of structural integrity over time, as collagen and elastin fibers degrade, the skin becomes less able to resist mechanical stress. This contributes to wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of firmness.
14. Disruption of the Circadian rhythm: Disrupted rhythms (due to ageing, poor sleep, or night-shift work) can impair DNA repair, barrier function, and antioxidant defences, making skin more vulnerable to damage.
15. Skin-brain axis: Stress, anxiety, and neurological ageing can affect skin inflammation, barrier function, and wound healing, and can accelerate skin ageing, showing how mental health and ageing are deeply connected.
16. Extracellular Matrix degradation: Ageing leads to an imbalance between ECM synthesis and degradation, primarily driven by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are enzymes activated by UV exposure and oxidative stress.

Shifting the storytelling: From anti-ageing to pro-longevity

In 2025, skin longevity has emerged as the most influential trend shaping the cosmetics industry. With an increasing demand for science-backed, well-ageing solutions, active ingredient manufacturers are prioritizing longevity-focused innovations that address biological ageing at its roots.

These next-generation ingredients aim to slow down the ageing process by targeting cellular and molecular damage while protecting the skin from environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution, blue light, and infrared radiation.

Marketing is moving from anti-ageing, implying reversal, to pro-ageing and pro-longevity claims, focusing on maintaining skin health and resilience. This approach embraces ageing as natural and emphasizes:

• Protection against environmental damage.
• Enhancing intrinsic repair and regeneration.
• Maintaining skin barrier integrity and microbiome balance.
• Supporting metabolic and immune homeostasis.

This holistic perspective meets consumer demand for sustainable, science-backed skincare promoting long-term well-being.

Future directions: Personalized and evidence-based products

The fusion of ageing biology and cosmetic science is redefining skin longevity as an achievable, science-based goal.

By targeting interconnected biological hallmarks with advanced biotechnologies is redefining what’s possible in skin longevity, and adopting healthy ageing narratives positions skincare to enhance appearance and sustain skin health and resilience.

This updated framework guides researchers, formulators, NPD, and marketers toward advancing skin longevity in 2025 and beyond.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The biology of beauty: How skin longevity and biological hallmarks are shaping the next-gen of skincare products first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/the-biology-of-beauty-how-skin-longevity-and-biological-hallmarks-are-shaping-the-next-gen-of-skincare-products/feed/ 0 23402 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/environmentally-friendly-cosmetics-reality-myths/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/environmentally-friendly-cosmetics-reality-myths/#respond Wed, 25 Jun 2025 13:40:54 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23361 Sustainable, green, natural, organic, eco-conscious… the use of these environmentally friendly sounding terms abound in the cosmetics industry. But how true are these statements, and are they overused? This blog will look at the myths and realities of cosmetics and their ingredients to answer the question, just how environmentally friendly are cosmetics? And how can […]

Sustainable, green, natural, organic, eco-conscious… the use of these environmentally friendly sounding terms abound in the cosmetics industry. But how true are these statements, and are they overused?

This blog will look at the myths and realities of cosmetics and their ingredients to answer the question, just how environmentally friendly are cosmetics? And how can you make sure your cosmetic brand is providing the reality, rather than adding to the myths?

Myth:

If you don’t hold the proof, don’t make the claim.

One of the first things that could help a consumer discern if a cosmetic brand is really being truthful is for that company to provide valid % based claims, and certification where possible.

Unfortunately, when talking to brands, we find that often they are ‘told’ a claim or use a claim to mimic a competitor, without actually holding the evidence about the cosmetic formula or its ingredients from the suppliers and Cosmetic Chemists directly.

Cosmetic regulations require cosmetic brands to hold evidence for all claims they make about a product – including eco-conscious and environmentally based claims.

Yet it is surprising how often we have brands seeking urgent help when they are required to provide this evidence because they didn’t hold it in the first place. Read this blog for more information on how to avoid ‘accidental’ greenwashing.

Make it a reality: To be truthful, make sure your cosmetic brand holds the proof for any sustainability, natural, green or similar claims it wants to make about the cosmetic formula, its ingredients and even its packaging.

Even better – use official sources to certify the content of ‘natural’ or organic input; but at the very least make sure your % claims are backed up by suitable evidence that will satisfy a regulator.

Myth: using water to boost the ‘natural’ content of the formula.

Did you know that claims such as ‘contains 95% naturally sourced ingredients’ typically count somewhere between 70 – 90% of water as part of that claim?

Sure, water is used in a vast majority of cosmetic formulas as one of the major components, and while it is natural, it does make a consumer think their cosmetic product contains a much greater input of natural plant oils and extracts rather than pointing out the actual water content.

Make it a reality: wouldn’t it be more truthful to state the % natural excluding the water input? For example, a claim such as ‘contains 95% naturally sourced plant ingredients.’

Another more truthful approach would be to use the higher % input, but make it clear that it contains the water input? For example, ‘contains 95% naturally sourced ingredients including water.’

Myth: what is the true carbon footprint of your product?

Even if your cosmetic formula does contain a high percentage of natural and sustainable ingredients, have you considered the carbon footprint of that product?

Here are some things to consider:

• What processing is needed to obtain the cosmetic ingredient? For example, many esterified materials (which includes a vast majority of emollients and emulsifiers) and surfactants need very high temperature processing to go from the raw form to the ingredient that actually gets used in a cosmetic formula. This can add significant carbon burden. Learn more about how this impacts many common cosmetic materials with this video: Sustainable and carbon neutral beauty.

• How far has that ingredient travelled, and then your finished product? If you are using cosmetic ingredients from far off locations and then shipping your finished products a long way to consumers, that travel component and the fuel needed to cover the delivery is adding to the carbon footprint.

• Was high temperature processing or high shear needed to manufacture your product? If so, there is an increased carbon loading.

• Don’t forget your packaging! Is it truly as sustainable as you claim – or is it more recyclable than sustainable? See sustainable packaging tips and products here.

Reality: tips to help you create truly environmentally friendly cosmetics

Now that we’ve looked at the items you need to be wary of, let’s look at tips on how to improve the environmental score on your cosmetic ingredient choices, and cosmetic formulas.

• Review your cosmetic formulas and calculate the water content, natural ingredient content, or upcycled ingredient content and promote this on your label. Learn how to calculate the sustainability content of a cosmetic formula here.

• Switch to more locally sourced cosmetic ingredients or make functional ingredient choices that provide performance benefits as well to minimise the number of ingredients needed.

• If you are shipping a lot of products, consider if you could make them ‘concentrated’ so the consumer adds water before use, rather than shipping a high content of water. You could also consider which products you could make waterless: powder to foam, waterless bars and other waterless forms can be an innovative way to send product without water. This would also help with the % natural claims (excluding water) too!

• Use upcycled ingredients where possible – upcycled ingredients, those that would otherwise be considered waste, are a fantastic way to boost the environmental benefits of your cosmetic formulas.

• Use cosmetic ingredients source using biotechnology – commonly fermentation – as this has a very low carbon footprint.

• Use cosmetic ingredients that enable you to cold-process the formula – manufacture large quantities of product without needing a heating or cool down phase. This saves dramatically on manufacture times and energy requirements to be much more environmentally friendly.

• Check the true sustainability of your packaging and avoid heavy packaging such as glass. While glass sounds ‘natural’, it takes very high temperatures to create, needs extra packaging to prevent breakages and is very heavy for shipping, which adds significantly to fuel and the carbon footprint.

Use the above tips to boost the environmentally friendly message of your cosmetic product to your marketing benefits but also to resonate with the conscious consumer of today.

There are so many ingredient and packaging choices now available, make sure you speak with your suppliers and look for environmentally conscious innovations at your next in-cosmetics exhibition to take big steps toward truly sustainable and earth friendly cosmetic products with your next developments.

Happy formulating!

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Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Environmentally friendly cosmetics: reality & myths first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/environmentally-friendly-cosmetics-reality-myths/feed/ 0 23361 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ingredient-percentages-does-more-mean-better/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ingredient-percentages-does-more-mean-better/#respond Mon, 16 Jun 2025 13:30:04 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23307 A formulator’s perspective Let’s address the elephant in the lab: the skincare industry’s fixation on percentages is, at best, a wild oversimplification and at worst, what could be perceived as a marketing ploy that can undermine formulation science. For those of us in R&D, innovation and manufacturing, the real conversation should centre on how ingredients […]

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A formulator’s perspective

Let’s address the elephant in the lab: the skincare industry’s fixation on percentages is, at best, a wild oversimplification and at worst, what could be perceived as a marketing ploy that can undermine formulation science.

For those of us in R&D, innovation and manufacturing, the real conversation should centre on how ingredients work together and not just how much is thrown into a formulation.

The allure of high numbers

In today’s digitally savvy skincare market, consumers and marketing teams are increasingly drawn to products boasting high percentages of active ingredients such as 10% niacinamide or 2% salicylic acid.

Vogue Business reported a 229% rise in ingredient-based searches like retinol and vitamin C.

This trend reflects a desire for transparency and efficacy. While this shift towards ingredient awareness is positive, consumers are keen on understanding skincare science.

Focusing only on percentages can be misleading, more isn’t always better (often riskier) and percentages alone rarely predict product performance or safety.

This is why ingredient percentages shouldn’t be the sole factor guiding formulation choices.

Consumer trends

A 2023 Mintel report found that 68% of UK skincare buyers actively seek percentage disclosures, a trend fuelled by social media.

Ingredient-focused searches in South Korea have also surged. Cosmetics Business reports a 168% increase in weekly searches for ‘Korean skincare’, driven largely by terms like kojic acid with buyers prioritise high percentages on labels.

While some brands disclose ingredient percentages to promote transparency, others may use this information as a marketing narrative by inflating numbers such as 20% vitamin C or 10% glycolic acid, even when those concentrations are unnecessary or unstable.

Clinical strength claims

Terms like clinical or medical-grade or 10% potency imply medical efficacy, yet most clinical studies cited by brands are in-house trials with questionable methodology. 78% of in-house studies lack placebo controls (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2023).

For instance, a “10% tranexamic acid” claim may reference a single-arm study (no placebo) on 30 participants, hardly robust evidence (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2022).

Yet independent research (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021) shows that tranexamic acid’s efficacy plateaus at 2–5% in topical formulations.

The greenwashing of percentages

There are brands which claim to be “clean” and are known to market “10% lactic acid” as “natural,” while omitting synthetic stabilisers that are essential for shelf life.

60% of “clean” brands use synthetic stabilisers (pentylene glycol) despite marketing claims, with environmental groups funded by organic brands also fueling this narrative (The Eco Well, 2023).

Regulatory realities (where % matters)

A higher concentration doesn’t always mean better results and can cause irritation.

There are many compliance steps brands must follow when sourcing raw materials, including obtaining certificates of analysis and safety data sheets, ingredient usage guidelines and conducting third-party safety assessments before a product can be sold.

The EU’s Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 governs cosmetic products with strict rules on ingredient limits and safety assessments, to ensure products sold to the market are safe to use on our skin.

For example, alpha-arbutin is limited to 2% and kojic acid at 1% in face products from April 2025 onward. These aren’t arbitrary numbers, data on skin tolerance, long-term exposure and cumulative risk back them.

Salicylic acid in the US is an over-the-counter (OTC) acne ingredient with a 2% FDA monograph limit (21 CFR 333.310).

South Korea’s KFDA regulations sets a 3% tranexamic acid limit for particular claims (Notification 2021-64).

These regulations highlight that the efficacy of an ingredient isn’t solely dependent on its concentration. Factors such as formulation, pH levels and ingredient synergy are key to a product’s performance.

More isn’t always better

The effectiveness of an active ingredient doesn’t necessarily increase with its concentration. Higher percentages can sometimes lead to skin irritation without providing additional benefits.

It’s essential to recognise that the optimal concentration varies depending on the ingredient and individual skin types.

The role of formulation

The percentage of ingredients is just one piece of the efficacy puzzle. The overall performance can depend on factors such as pH levels, delivery systems and the presence of complementary ingredients.

A well-formulated product considers these interactions to maximise benefits and minimise potential adverse effects.

The limits of penetration and bioavailability

A 10% active sounds impressive on a label, but if the formulation lacks the right method of delivering the ingredient into the skin, most of it will sit on the skin’s surface.

The International Journal of Pharmaceutics (2020) showed that some active ingredients require optimised delivery systems to achieve skin penetration.

Delivery systems with 0.3% retinol have shown to outperform 1% basic emulsions (Journal of Controlled Release 2021) with a reduced risk of irritation.

Again, non-delivery systems containing retinol in lower concentrations (0.25-0.5%) can still yield noticeable improvements in fine lines and pigmentation with minimal side effects.

pH and stability

For actives like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and vitamin C, pH is the critical factor and not just a percentage.

A 10% glycolic acid at pH 5 is practically inert, while a 5% formula at pH 3.5 delivers superior exfoliation.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is most effective at a pH below 3.5 and an oxidisable active, above 10% it is unstable.

Yet most brands omit pH disclosure, leaving consumers (and even retailers) none the wiser.

The EU’s Cosmetic Regulation (EC 1223/2009) requires pH data to exist in technical documents (though not public-facing), a loophole that is often misunderstood.

Also, there is no requirement to test/document pH in South Korean regulations unless product is classified as functional (e.g., whitening).

Synergy over strength

A well-formulated 2% salicylic acid with other ingredients outperforms a 4% salicylic acid toner because it leverages multi-mechanistic exfoliation.

Similarly, vitamin C works best when paired with other ingredients designed to stabilise the molecule and enhance antioxidant efficacy and prevent oxidation.

Niacinamide paired with barrier-repairing ingredients outperforms standalone 10% formulation.

Brand marketing often relies on isolated high-percentage actives (e.g., 10% niacinamide), but their minimalist formulations often lack the supporting ingredients needed for optimal performance.

A formulator’s quick guide

Delivery systems or advanced formulation methods

pH optimisation

Stabilisation

Synergistic pairing of ingredients

A call to action for the industry

As formulators and R&D leaders, we must push back against the percentage obsession by:

-Educating retailers and consumers on why 10% isn’t inherently better than 5%.
-Considering patents and delivery systems over isolated actives
-Third party substantiated claims and robust scientific evidence
-Demanding regulatory clarity on pH and stability claims.

The future of skincare isn’t in labels with percentages, it’s in intelligent formulation. Let’s lead with science, not marketing temptations.

While knowing the percentage of active ingredients can provide insight, it’s not the definitive measure of a product’s efficacy.

A thoughtful approach that considers formulation, ingredient synergy, robust scientific evidence and individual skin needs is crucial for achieving desired skincare outcomes. Remember, more isn’t always better, it’s about finding the right balance for your skin.

For more formulation insights, connect with me on LinkedIn and at in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul and in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, 2025. Let’s elevate the conversation beyond percentages.

References:

Vogue Business (2023), Ingredients before brands: The new beauty consumer priority?

Mintel (2023) Transparency trends in UK skincare buying habits.

Cosmetics & Toiletries (2023), Industry survey on clinical claims.

Cosmetics & Toiletries (2022), Tranexamic acid in skincare: Misused metrics.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021) Efficacy of topical tranexamic acid.

The Eco Well (2023) A critical look at the ‘clean’ beauty movement.

International Journal of Pharmaceutics (2020) Penetration enhancers in topical delivery.

British Journal of Dermatology (2020) Niacinamide: Efficacy in skin barrier support.

Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2005) Stabilisation of ascorbic acid with ferulic acid and vitamin E.

Journal of Controlled Release (2021) Liposomal retinol delivery in skincare.

Almeman, A. A. (2024), Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 17, 1661–1685. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S453243

European Commission (2009), Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

U.S. Food & Drug Administration. (n.d.). 21 CFR 333.310: OTC acne treatments monograph.

Korea Food and Drug Administration (2021), KFDA Notification 2021-64: Whitening ingredient concentration limits.

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Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Ingredient percentages: Does more mean better? first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ingredient-percentages-does-more-mean-better/feed/ 0 23307 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/exclusive-catalynt-qa-innovating-skincare-with-uv-solutions/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/exclusive-catalynt-qa-innovating-skincare-with-uv-solutions/#respond Fri, 13 Jun 2025 08:52:31 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23287 (Sponsored Content) How does Catalynt align with the growing demand for sun protection and skincare innovation? Catalynt supports personal care and cosmetics innovation by offering chemistries that help formulators meet performance, sensory, and regulatory demands. From globally approved UV filters and multifunctional esters to preservatives, emulsifiers, and stabilizers, we provide the building blocks that enhance […]

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(Sponsored Content)

How does Catalynt align with the growing demand for sun protection and skincare innovation?

Catalynt supports personal care and cosmetics innovation by offering chemistries that help formulators meet performance, sensory, and regulatory demands.

From globally approved UV filters and multifunctional esters to preservatives, emulsifiers, and stabilizers, we provide the building blocks that enhance efficacy and elevate user experience.

As a woman-owned company with deep personal care expertise, we help brands stay agile and ahead by delivering quality ingredients, market intelligence, and nimble solutions that keep pace with consumer expectations for safety, sustainability, and skin health.

How are you addressing global chain instability and supply chain risks?

In a volatile world, Catalynt stands out for its proactive and transparent sourcing model. We maintain strategic relationships with vetted global producers and offer US-based stocking, custom blending, repackaging, and QC services to localize supply and reduce risk.

Our agile logistics team actively monitors tariffs, trade flows, and inventory positions, so customers can count on continuity. Whether managing REACH restrictions or port disruptions, we partner closely with personal care brands to anticipate challenges and create flexible pathways forward. Our goal is to help customers build resilience while navigating uncertainty.

What role does Catalynt play in the trend toward formulation flexibility and customization?

Catalynt enables flexibility by offering a curated portfolio of esters, emollients, thickeners, UV actives, and multifunctionals, along with secondary and tertiary sources already vetted and approved in collaboration with customer labs.

We provide rapid access to samples, technical data, and compliance documents to accelerate development timelines. For brands seeking differentiation, we also support custom blending and sourcing to meet unique performance or regulatory goals.

Our hands-on approach helps formulators bring innovative, inclusive products to market faster, with greater control and confidence.

Find out more about Catalynt here

 

About our Interviewee: Jennifer A.Calvery, Vice President of Marketing & Business Development, Catalynt

In her role, Jennifer unifies sales, business development, compliance, and tech by blending creativity with process thinking. As Director of Marketing & Business Development,  she crafts strategy, manages the brand, and drives growth through cross-functional collaboration, campaigns, and execution.

More about Jennifer A. Calvery

 

 

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Feeling inspired

In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty, few terms have generated as much recent intrigue as exosomes.

Once limited to regenerative medicine, these nano-sized messengers derived from cellular processes have made their way from aesthetic clinics to one of the most discussed developments in skincare, promising to enhance skin longevity.

At this year’s in-cosmetics Global, several exhibitors notably unveiled exosome and exosome-like innovations, highlighting the growing momentum and diverse applications that are fascinating formulators and manufacturers.

Although exosomes offer advanced solutions, they remain widely misunderstood due to marketing ambiguity, regulatory grey areas and a lack of consumer education about what they truly are and how they work.

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are nanosized (30-150 nm), naturally occurring lipid-encased particles secreted by nearly all cell types in our body, including stem cells.

They are one of two primary types of extracellular vesicles (EVs), the other being ectosomes. Exosomes originate inside the cell and are released into the extracellular environment through exocytosis.

Once thought to be mere cellular debris, these vesicles carry biological material like proteins, lipids, growth factors and genetic material from one cell to another, altering the behaviour and fate of recipient cells.

They’re not living cells like stem cells but naturally function as delivery systems and are now understood to play a crucial role in intercellular communication by modulating immune responses, promoting recovery and regulating inflammation.

A single exosome can carry hundreds to thousands of unique combinations of material inside that reflect the identity and current state of its parent cell. As a result, its molecular payload varies and adapts to the cell’s environment, almost like a tailored response to the body’s needs.

When were exosomes first discovered?

While extracellular vesicles (EVs) were studied as early as the 1950s, the term exosomes was first introduced in the 1980s during studies on reticulocytes (maturing red blood cells), where they were initially observed as vesicles facilitating the removal of obsolete cellular components.

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that immunological research in the US and Europe highlighted their regenerative role as key intercellular communicators.

This sparked interest in Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs)-derived exosomes (from bone marrow) which were shown to aid tissue repair, modulate inflammation and influence fibroblast activity.

By the mid-2010s, thanks to their progressive regulatory landscape South Korea emerged as a global leader in exosome research and development (R&D), particularly in post-laser care, microneedling and many K-beauty products like ampoules and serums.

Today, exosomes are bridging regenerative medicine and advanced skincare delivery systems for their ability to deliver functional molecules with targeted precision.

Where are exosomes sourced from?

Exosomes can be sourced from a diverse range of cells such as human, animal, plant, algae and bacteria cells.

In skincare, due to ethical considerations and regulations they are not extracted from live organisms but instead harvested from cell cultures, such as stem cell–conditioned media, freeze-dried vesicle fragment or plant tissue.

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), often derived from bone marrow, umbilical cord, or adipose tissue produce exosomes rich in growth factors and cytokines that promote skin regeneration.

Regulations in the UK, EU and US currently classify exosomes from these sources as biologicals or drugs if they contain human-derived material, restricting their use in skincare.

Plant-derived (e.g. grape, ginger), milk-derived or probiotic vesicles such as those from Lactobacillus spp. often considered lysates, are being marketed as phyto-exosomes, biosomes or nanoparticles to mimic exosome functions.

These offer more accessible, regulatory accepted, stable, halal and vegan-friendly options for formulators.

Market potential

The global exosomes skincare market is projected to grow from $417.8 million in 2025 to $809.5 million by 2032, with a CAGR of 9.9% (Coherent Market Insights).

This rapid expansion is being driven by consumer demand for regenerative, non-invasive skincare and major R&D investment in biotechnology with Asia-Pacific and North America leading market share.

Skincare science (and limitations)

Exosomes are being increasingly used in skin formulations for accelerating regeneration, supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and promoting collagen synthesis.

In most regulated markets, only non-viable, well characterised and highly purified sources often derived from fermentation or plant origin are permitted.

For formulators and manufacturers, working with exosomes offers exciting potential but also complexity.

Exosomes are highly sensitive to temperature, pH and oxidation making them unstable in conventional emulsions or serums unless stabilised and without proper extraction and delivery methods their benefits are often overestimated.

Many products may not contain viable or functional vesicles by the time they reach the skin. This also presents challenges in ensuring exosome viability throughout manufacturing and shelf life.

The lack of globally accepted standards makes it difficult to confirm presence, purity or dosage, raising concern over efficacy claims they are often marketed for.

To address these limitations alongside regulatory and ethical concerns, formulators are exploring exosome-like alternatives like technologies, synthetic vesicles or engineered peptides- designed to mimic the delivery function of natural exosomes without relying on biologically derived materials.

While not identical in structure or origin, these exosome-like ingredients aim to achieve similar goals; delivering active ingredients deeper into the skin and modulating cellular behaviour.

Importantly, these alternatives offer greater consistency, improved safety profiles and clearer regulatory pathways.

According to recent market data, plant-derived exosome-like products currently make up 39% of the category, largely due to their regulatory accessibility and consumer preference for ethical sourcing.

Marketing transparency

One of the biggest challenges facing exosome skincare is the widespread marketing ambiguity surrounding the term itself ‘exosome’.

Many consumers and even some brands don’t understand what exosomes truly are or confuse them with other technologies.

The term is often used loosely, often without clarifying the source, type or function of the vesicles included in the product.

In some cases, formulations may not contain intact or viable exosomes at all, only lysates, conditioned media or plant-derived mimetics and yet still carry the same regenerative claims.

Without clear labelling or scientific substantiation, consumers are left to navigate vague promises that often suggest stem cell benefits without regulatory backing.

This blurring of definitions dilutes credibility, misinforms users and undermines the truly advanced science behind authentic exosomes.

Regulatory concerns

Currently the most pressing issues surrounding exosome use in skincare is regulatory oversight or lack thereof.

To date, no cosmetic regulatory authority has formally approved human-derived exosomes, especially those from embryonic or foetal stem cells which are classified as biological medicinal products (biologics) or cell-based therapies and not cosmetics (skincare).

Without rigorous purification and documentation, their use in cosmetics is restricted and/ or prohibited across regions such as the UK, EU, US, Canada, South Korea, Japan and Australia.

What makes it even harder is the lack of quality standards as there’s currently no global benchmark for verifying exosome concentration, purity or functionality in skincare.

As a result, many products may list exosomes on the label without containing functionally active material or clearly specifying their source, type or purpose. Standardisation, origin traceability and transparent labelling are essential to build consumer trust and scientific credibility.

This is why formulators are turning to safer, more transparent options like plant- or probiotic-derived alternatives, which are easier to regulate and formulate.

Final thoughts

Exosomes are a fascinating breakthrough at the intersection of biology, biotechnology and skincare.

While they’ve shown therapeutic potential, exosomes are still largely in the research phase and most supporting evidence demonstrating their skin-related benefits are limited (lab-based cell culture) or animal model studies.

Human clinical trials (in-vivo) remain scarce, mostly investigating wound or scar healing, highlighting an opportunity for innovators to lead with science.

While true exosomes are still in regulatory limbo, exosome-like systems offer a promising alternative, particularly those that are more stable, scalable and aligned with consumer values.

Did you know that there will be a special focus on Biotech Beauty at in-cosmetics Asia this year?

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

References

Mendt, M., Kamerkar, S., & Alt, E. (2019). MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative therapy and beyond. Frontiers in Cell and Developmental Biology

Phinney, D.G., & Pittenger, M.F. (2017). MSC-derived exosomes for cell-free therapy. Molecular Therapy

Alcayaga-Miranda, F., Cuenca, J., & Khoury, M. (2017). Harnessing the immunomodulatory properties of MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative medicine applications. Stem Cell Research & Therapy

Pan, B.T., Teng, K., Wu, C., Adam, M. and Johnstone, R.M., 1985. Electron microscopic evidence for externalization of the transferrin receptor in vesicular form in sheep reticulocytes. Journal of Cell Biology, 101(3), pp.942–948. doi:10.1083/jcb.101.3.942

Caplan AI. Mesenchymal stem cells. J Orthop Res. 1991;9:641–650. doi: 10.1002/jor.1100090504

Harding CV, Heuser JE, Stahl PD. Exosomes: looking back three decades and into the future. J Cell Biol. 2013 Feb 18;200(4):367-71. doi: 10.1083/jcb.201212113. Erratum in: J Cell Biol. 2013 Apr 29;201(3):485. PMID: 23420870; PMCID: PMC3575527

Charbord P. Bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells: historical overview and concepts. Hum Gene Ther. 2010 Sep;21(9):1045-56. doi: 10.1089/hum.2010.115. PMID: 20565251; PMCID: PMC4823383

Woith, E.; Fuhrmann, G.; Melzig, M.F. Extracellular Vesicles—Connecting Kingdoms. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019, 20, 5695. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20225695

Bin Zhang, Mei Wang, Aihua Gong, Xu Zhang, Xiaodan Wu, Yanhua Zhu, Hui Shi, Lijun Wu, Wei Zhu, Hui Qian, Wenrong Xu, HucMSC-Exosome Mediated-Wnt4 Signaling Is Required for Cutaneous Wound Healing, Stem Cells, Volume 33, Issue 7, July 2015, Pages 2158–2168, https://doi.org/10.1002/stem.1771

Kim YJ, Yoo SM, Park HH, Lim HJ, Kim YL, Lee S, Seo KW, Kang KS. Exosomes derived from human umbilical cord blood mesenchymal stem cells stimulates rejuvenation of human skin. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2017 Nov 18;493(2):1102-1108. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2017.09.056

Yet there are some types of cosmetics that can be considered preventative, or at least, able to combat damage effectively. Let’s take a closer look at what they are, their key ingredients, and how they can support a claim of preventative skincare.

1. Sunscreen formulas

Undoubtedly, the number one preventative skincare product has to be sunscreen. Using sunscreen regularly can help prevent all types of skin damage, from drying out and burning, through to premature ageing and skin cancer.

Sunscreens are treated differently to standard skincare products when it comes to regulations; in some regions of the world they are considered drugs (USA and Canada) or therapeutic (Australia), while in the EU they are considered cosmetics but additional directions and claims can be made with the intention to protect the consumer and provide preventative skincare.

When formulating sunscreens, there are 3 key things you need to remember to get started:

1. you will need to use appropriate UV filters to obtain broad spectrum protection. This means using both UVA and UVB filters – the UVA filters must provide at least one third of the stated SPF claim.

2. check regulatory limits of sunscreen filters specific to the country that you are formulating for; this means you will generally need to use a combination of UV filters to achieve the desired broad spectrum and UVA:UVB performance.

3. depending on how much oil soluble UV filters are used, you may need to formulate a water in oil emulsion to ensure suitable stability and spreading, which contributes to achieving the best SPF rating and performance.

Watch tips on how to formulate SPF50+ sunscreen formulas.

2. Botox like peptides

Another preventative type of cosmetic formula is one that can help reduce expression-induced muscular contractions that would normally contribute to wrinkles. One of the most effective class of cosmetic ingredients that can provide this functionality is peptides with a botox-like activity. Learn more about peptides, proteins and collagen in cosmetic formulas here.

Peptides with this activity tend to mimic the peptides which are normally produced by the body to prohibit muscular contractions. By providing these mimics, the cosmetic product can help reduce the number and depth of these expression lines, and thereby ‘prevent’ the formation of deep wrinkles.

Delivery is especially important with these botox-like peptides – they are extremely small but need to travel a comparably huge distance through the epidermis. Watch our video on cosmetic absorption by the skin to see how difficult this delivery can be; and then watch how to increase cosmetic penetration to the required delivery sites.

3. Whitening and brightening actives

There are a lot of complexion brightening actives available, ranging from vitamin B3 and C through to a multitude of plant extracts and even certain types of peptides. Speak with your suppliers to see what options they can provide.

While sunscreen can help prevent the entire melanin production reaction from happening, brightening actives can be considered a type of ‘preventative’ skincare ingredients because they use one or more pathways to inhibit, or prevent, the activity of melanocytes such as:

1. neutralizing reactive oxidants

2. inhibit tyrosinase activity

3. inhibit melanocyte dendricity and/or

4. block the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes

4. Antioxidants

Antioxidants can be considered preventative skincare because they quench free radicals before they are able to cause damage to our skin. Some of the key antioxidants you should be incorporating into your formulas for this preventative effect include:

• Mixed tocopherols – undoubtedly one of the most widely used and known antioxidants found in a vast range of cosmetic formulas to not only protect the formula from oxidative changes, but also the skin. Just remember, when formulating, the acetate form will protect the skin but not the formula, so if you need to improve the stability of your cosmetic formula with anti-oxidant protection, always use the pure tocopherol form.

• Vitamin C – another widely known antioxidant, it can also brighten the skin. Vitamin C can be a lot trickier to formulate with, given its many incompatibilities (depending on the specific form used) and its relatively low shelf life. Make sure you formulate with vitamin C carefully to get the desired results, watch this video for tips.

• Ferulic acid is another antioxidant with brightening skin benefits and is especially useful in after-sun products.

• Resveratrol, ectoin and a host of other antioxidant herbal extracts – speak with your suppliers for materials with potent antioxidant activity for the skin.

Just remember: antioxidants that help stop free-radical damage in the skin don’t necessarily have any antioxidant activity to help lengthen the shelf life of your cosmetic formula. Only a few materials such as mixed tocopherols, alpha-tocopherol and resin-like rosemary extract can provide formula specific benefits.

5. Humectants and barrier protection

Humectants are the unsung hero of a cosmetic formulation; they provide suppleness and hydration to the skin without greasiness and can give an instant plumping and smoothing effect on application.

Barrier protection from ordinary lipids or specific film formers can also help hold water in the skin by significantly lowering and in some cases, almost preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The combined effect of humectants with barrier protection helps keep moisture in the skin, an essential element to keep it healthy and looking great.

Preventative skincare is not a marketing term that can be bandied about; but when promoting sunscreens, botox like activity, whitening, antioxidant and TEWL protection, it is definitely a claim you can imply with caution.

These types of cosmetic products, and the ingredients used in their formulation, are the best defence against undesirable cosmetic effects, and even skin damage, for what is the closest thing we can consider as preventative skincare.

Remember to speak with your suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to formulate ‘preventative skincare’ with confidence.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Brazil is the world’s 2nd largest market for fragrance sales*, highlighting its focus on personal appearance.

Brazil’s flourishing fragrance market

After the USA, Brazil is the world’s second-largest market for fragrance sales*, a position rooted in cultural traditions, tropical climate, economic factors, and industry innovation. But what are the reasons behind this colossal demand?

Let’s find out more…

The cultural importance of fragrance

Fragrance holds deep cultural importance in Brazil. Paying high attention to personal care and hygiene are the norm regardless of backgrounds, whilst perfume is seen as an essential part of daily grooming. The fresh, clean feeling after bathing (”banho tomado”) is part and parcel of Brazilian culture, and wearing fragrance is not reserved for special occasions but instead considered a natural extension of maintaining hygiene.

A common perception is that Brazilians often shower twice daily and apply fragrance multiple times a day. The hot and humid climate plays a pivotal role in this frequent reapplication, as people seek to refresh themselves throughout the day.

Affordability makes it accessible

With the average salary in Brazil standing at US575** , affordability is clearly a key factor when it comes to driving  Brazil’s fragrance sales. The market is dominated by mass-market and mid-range fragrances, with domestic powerhouses like O Boticário and Natura having rolled out high-quality yet very affordable fragrances suited to local preferences.

As Brazil has one of the largest direct sales networks in the world, this channel is a crucial factor.  In large cities but also in remote areas, this distribution model enables brands to sell  fragrances through a combination of catalogues, home visits, and social selling.

Climate and fragrance preferences

Brazil’s tropical climate plays a major role in the types of fragrances that perform well in the local market. As they provide a refreshing experience in the heat, light, fresh, and citrusy scents are very popular and fragrances with floral and fruity notes in particular dominate sales, as they align with local preferences.

Furthermore, the demand for body splashes and deodorant sprays is high with many consumers preferring layering scents, using a combination of scented body products and perfumes to maintain a long-lasting fragrance throughout the day.

Strong presence and innovation in the industry

With the benefit of their strong presence and understanding of local consumers’ preferences, Brazil’s fragrance industry is dominated by the likes of Natura and O Boticário who both invest heavily in research and development. As a country where environmentally-friendly consumption is key, Brazilian brands highlight their sustainability credentials by incorporating eco-friendly practices and natural ingredients.

Many global fragrance companies tailor their offering to local preferences and formulate lighter, fresher versions of their perfumes specifically for Brazilian consumers.

Conclusion

Brazil’s ranking as the second-largest fragrance market in the world is a result of cultural traditions, affordability, climate-driven needs and industry innovation. The fragrance market benefits from its use as an everyday essential and, once combined with a very accessible and diverse product range, it is on track to grow annually by a very healthy 5.27%.

*Source: Euromonitor International
** Source: Trading Economics
***Source: Statista

To discover more about the Brazilian market and its opportunities, visit in-cosmetics Latin America in São Paulo on 23-24 September 2025.