The agenda will spotlight biotech formulation challenges and consumer trends

in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, is poised to deliver its biggest and most dynamic show to date as it returns to BITEC, Bangkok from 4-6 November 2025.

This year’s event will play host to 80% of the world’s top 10 ingredient suppliers, including industry giants like BASF, Croda, Clariant, and Evonik. It is also expected to welcome 90% of the world’s top 10 cosmetic manufacturers, from L’Oréal and P&G to Kenvue and Unilever.

Now in its 16th year, in-cosmetics Asia has tripled in size since its launch, reflecting the growing demand among R&D professionals and formulators for ingredient solutions in the region.

The 2025 edition will feature over 700 exhibitors and welcome thousands of cosmetic scientists, manufacturers, brand owners, and product developers from across Asia Pacific and further afield. Based on the registration alert requests, overall demand for the show is already tracking 273% higher than at this stage in 2024.

Amid market volatility and regulatory shifts in the US, EU and China, global cosmetic brands are increasingly turning to Asia Pacific, with in-cosmetics Asia website traffic from the US, Russia and China up by 105%, 69% and 22%, respectively.

Up to 100 new exhibitors will be joining the event, with traffic to the website’s Exhibitor Directory up by 151% compared to last year; a clear sign of how eager personal care experts are to research and source the latest personal care ingredients.

in-cosmetics Asia 2025 continues to evolve alongside industry trends, with this year’s show placing a strong spotlight on:
• Personalisation and AI-powered beauty
• Shifting consumer behaviours across China, India and Southeast Asia
• Ethical cosmetics and sustainability: with marine-derived ingredients emerging as one of the most searched-for categories on the website.
• Product stability and efficacy: a core focus of this year’s Technical Seminar and Formulation Lab programmes.
• SPF and UV protection: with the latest advances in UV filters, formulation strategies and regional compliance challenges.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director at in-cosmetics Asia, said:

“This year marks an exciting turning point. As beauty brands navigate macroeconomic pressures and shifting consumer priorities, we have seen growing interest in APAC based on its agility, speed to market and endless demographic opportunities. in-cosmetics Asia 2025 will echo that momentum, not just in scale, but in how deeply we engage with the industry’s most pressing needs.

“From the rise of biotech beauty to the growing demand for well-ageing solutions, we’re aligning our programme with the real challenges facing formulators today: matching consumer trends with R&D capabilities, efficacy, ingredient compatibility, UV protection and more. This year’s show will provide attendees a platform to innovate and advance with confidence. There’s much more to come, and we look forward to revealing what’s in store!”

in-cosmetics Asia will take place from 4-6 November 2025 at BITEC, Bangkok. It will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s leading manufacturing, packaging and OEM/ODM exhibition for personal care and dietary supplement products.

Visitor registration will open in early August. For more information, visit here.

ENDS
Notes to editors: For further information please contact Olivia Evans or Kat Long at the in-cosmetics press office on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

About RX
RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

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RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

Exclusive article for Personal Care Global Magazine

Experts gathered at the 2025 in-cosmetics Global Co-Lab at White City House in October to discuss sustainability in the cosmetics and personal care industry, where Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager, Net Zero Intelligence Unit, and Marta Iglesias, Director, at The Carbon Trust, led a session titled, ‘The Path to Net Zero: Unlocking Transformation Through Product Carbon Footprints’.

The 29th session of the Conference of the Parties (COP29) to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) takes place from 11 to 22 November in Baku, Azerbaijan. Every COP conference is an opportunity for international collaboration on climate change and given the cosmetic and personal care industry’s far-reaching impact on the planet’s climate, the gathering is particularly significant in driving direction and progress forward. While the industry’s contributions to greenhouse gas emissions – currently sitting at 1% – are smaller than some others, the personal care industry has a significant reach beyond what many outside the industry might realise. For context, the UK’s contribution to global emissions¹ is also 1%, highlighting the industry’s significance.

The global beauty and personal care market is projected to generate revenue of $648.60 billion this year². The largest national markets for cosmetics products within Europe include Germany (€15.9 billion), France (€13.7 billion), Italy (€12.5 billion), the UK (€11.0 billion), Spain (€10.4 billion), and Poland (€5.2 billion)³. Considering the market share, the industry’s responsibility to address environmental damage, specifically issues like ingredient sourcing, plastic packaging, waste pollution, and deforestation, cannot be understated. With COP29 on the horizon, it is crucial for the industry to grasp its role in reducing greenhouse gas emissions.

The Carbon Trust’s 2023 report, Greenhouse Gloss: Is the beauty industry’s commitment to tackling climate change more than skin deep?⁴ examines the credibility of Net Zero commitments made by the world’s ten highest-revenue beauty and personal care companies. It also highlights ways the sector can drive meaningful progress on Net Zero while ensuring sustainability claims meet high standards in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. A key finding shows that nearly one in three beauty products is marketed as “clean,” reflecting the eco-friendly preferences of 76% of consumers.

The companies assessed in the report, including L’Oréal, Unilever, Procter & Gamble, Estée Lauder, Shiseido, Beiersdorf, LVMH, Kao, Coty, and Johnson & Johnson. The Carbon Trust’s Net Zero Reality Check tool was employed to gauge climate action across the sector by reviewing the most recent annual, sustainability, and emissions reports from these companies. At the time of the report, none of the world’s ten largest beauty companies had set an independently validated Net Zero target, while three companies had not committed publicly to any Net Zero goals at all.

The clean beauty movement

“Clean beauty,” while still somewhat ambiguous in definition, has emerged over the last decade as a trend that loosely encompasses natural and or organic ingredients, cruelty-free practices, and environmentally friendly packaging, amongst various other criteria. A significant driving force behind this trend is the focus on climate change, with efforts aimed at reducing carbon emissions, minimising reliance on unsustainable processes, and mitigating environmental damage.

Marta Iglesias, Director at The Carbon Trust, observes that “clean beauty” is a concept “without a clear definition,” which can be interpreted in various ways to include natural ingredients, minimal processing, organic, vegan, and sustainable. She explains, “Beauty companies are becoming more aware of their impact on the planet, particularly the climate, and consumers are demanding greater clarity about the impacts of their beauty products and the steps companies are taking to minimise it. Claims of ‘clean’ need to be backed up by evidence of meaningful action, including climate action.”

Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager, Net Zero Intelligence Unit, at The Carbon Trust, says that the growing demand for clean beauty indicates consumers want brands to take more decisive action. She highlights that aiming for clean beauty is not “the most effective goal”; rather, specific actions on climate and sustainability are paramount. “It’s about linking products with higher aims and goals. If companies get the numbers right, they will gain real credibility. Initiatives like the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) provide validation and support,” she adds.

As of October 2024, the landscape of beauty companies has shown marked improvement since the original Greenhouse Gloss findings. Now, nine out of the top 10 global beauty companies have publicly committed to Net Zero, signaling a growing alignment with climate goals. Additionally, three of these companies have set science-aligned Net Zero targets and the majority are actively addressing emissions linked to the sourcing of raw materials, an essential area for impact given the environmental cost of ingredient production.

Top-down change

The challenge of meeting clean beauty criteria often stems from top-down legislation and regulation. Transforming a company’s entire operation and value chain to align with a decarbonised future is a significant hurdle for most sectors, including beauty. However, many companies are making great strides, with an increasing number setting science-aligned Net Zero targets and publishing transition plans. Key challenges include reducing emissions from sourcing, processing, and shipping raw materials, as well as addressing emissions from packaging. Supplier engagement and sector-wide collaboration will be crucial in overcoming these challenges, according to Iglesias.

Regulations and guidelines can be vital in combating greenwashing in the beauty industry. The Green Claims Directive⁵, for instance, aims to protect consumers from ambiguity and misleading terms like ‘climate positive’ and ‘carbon neutrality,’ which can create a false impression of environmental impact. Iglesias explains that achieving neutrality “often relies on offsets, instead of on prioritising emissions reduction measures”, but that “carbon offsetting is not guaranteed to deliver the necessary outcomes from an overall sustainability point of view.”

COP29 could help to raise levels of climate ambition and action globally. Foster highlights the two-pronged nature of its impact: formal negotiations among world leaders paired with active involvement from the real economy, including businesses, financial institutions and experts – a combination that drives positive feedback loops and is essential for meaningful change.

While the clean beauty movement reflects the good intentions of the industry, the absence of clear guidelines on its definition and implementation can pose some challenges. Establishing these guidelines in the first instance will provide direction for the beauty sector, ensuring that sustainable practices trickle down to all stakeholders. This would not only benefit the environment but also enhance product and industry standards.

Top-down regulation and legislation will be crucial in demonstrating how governments and the private sector can collaborate on global climate targets. The growing consumer demand for clean and sustainable beauty products offers a significant opportunity for the sector to take action on Net Zero and ensure sustainability claims reflect meaningful progress in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. As The Carbon Trust states, without credible action, ambitious language risks becoming mere greenhouse gloss, where promises fail to deliver meaningful change.

For information on the in-cosmetics Global Co-Labs, please visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/join-the-co-lab.html

in-cosmetics Global returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, bringing together top suppliers and manufacturers to inspire the future of cosmetics. For more information about the event, please visit the website here.

The Carbon Trust will open the Sustainability Zone Forum with a keynote session on Tuesday 8 April at 10:15. Speaker and session details will be confirmed soon.

This week, in-cosmetics Global held the first of this year’s Co-Lab events in London. Gathering leading experts in cosmetics product formulation and development from across the UK, the event provided an open platform for attendees to discuss pressing challenges, emerging opportunities, and trends for sustainable practices and products in the cosmetics industry.

The story so far…

Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager at The Carbon Trust shed light on the urgency of sustainability in the beauty and personal care sector. Drawing from the 2023 research report, Greenhouse Gloss[1], she highlighted the sector’s significant environmental impact, noting that it currently accounts for 1% of global greenhouse gas emissions – a significant figure, especially when compared to the UK’s contribution of 1% of global emissions[2]. With the global beauty market expected to grow by 6% annually through 2028, according to McKinsey & Co[3]., the potential for a growing environmental impact is clear.

She pointed out that the beauty industry not only contributes to issues like deforestation, through the sourcing of ingredients like palm oil but also faces supply chain vulnerabilities due to climate change. Common cosmetic resources such as Argan oil from Morocco and Shea butter from West Africa are increasingly at risk from extreme weather events. Foster concluded that the industry holds a unique opportunity to be part of the solution.

Accountability in the industry

Discussing progress since the publication of Greenhouse Gloss, Foster shared that nine of the 10 companies included in the report – such as L’Oréal, Unilever, and P&G – have now committed publicly to a Net Zero target. However, just three of those companies have set an independently validated Net Zero target.

Conversely, breakout sessions revealed that setting publicly available sustainability targets may not be the most viable option for smaller cosmetics organisations at this stage. Lianna Soffe, Brand Director at Ruby Hammer explained, “While we haven’t made any public commitments or targets, we’re doing everything we can to be sustainable.” This sentiment was shared amongst experts, suggesting that more needs to be done to support small and medium cosmetics businesses in their journey to a sustainable future.

Tanita Ketchen, NPD and Regulatory Manager at Laurelle London, added that one of the biggest obstacles is getting suppliers and internal leaders to set sustainability targets, and that it is often difficult to secure organisational level buy-in.

Meanwhile, Jo Farrow, Product Development Director at Hair by Sam McKnight, highlighted that when taking these changes into consideration, cosmetic businesses have to evaluate all the other costs associated with any amendments, such as retesting which can be expensive especially when clinical trials are involved.

Soffe mentioned that industry wide initiatives could “really help” smaller cosmetics businesses to succeed in their sustainability efforts.  The experts all agreed that smaller businesses could benefit from more collaboration with larger businesses.

Sustainability: a beauty consumer’s dilemma

Another central topic at the Co-Lab was the extent to which consumers truly prioritise sustainability. Data from across the board consistently indicates a desire for sustainable cosmetics products. For example, a 2020 survey from the British Beauty Council[4] found that 41% of consumers felt guilty about the environmental impact of beauty and grooming products.

Despite this, industry professionals shared their observations that in some cases, other factors can take precedence in purchasing decisions. Efficacy and performance, for example, were unanimously cited as more critical considerations than sustainability.

Timings and speed also play a crucial role, often leading brands to place unrealistic demands on ingredient manufacturers. Discussing this in the breakout sessions, Fred Edwards, COO at Monpure highlighted the sometimes-conflicting expectations, wanting products to be sustainable and eco-friendly, while also expecting them to be available almost immediately.  Dr Barbara Brockway, Scientific Advisor, Cosmetics & Personal Care, at Barbara Brockway Consulting echoed this, highlighting how the industry is “always under pressure from brands to do things in a weeks when it we know it takes months”. Meanwhile Estrella Corral, Cosmetic Market Trends and Innovations Specialist at HCT by kdc/one, advised that “This doesn’t take into consideration testing, more eco-friendly shipping methods, and other important processes”.

Beyond the buzzwords: common sustainability claims

Sustainability claims play a key role in both the formulation and marketing of beauty products across the globe, with claims encompassing a wide range of attributes, from plant-based ingredients to biodegradability and the absence of microplastics. As part of her session, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy, shared the most common sustainability claims being used by cosmetics brands[5]. The top three claims were ‘natural’ origin, biodegradability, and being free from micro-plastics.

Throughout the breakout sessions, the experts agreed that the breadth of sustainability claims are becoming more convoluted and complex for the consumer to understand. ‘Biodegradability’ specifically was mentioned by the experts as a red herring, with a significant portion of consumers confusing the term with ‘compostable’. Research suggests that about half of consumers have trouble distinguishing the terms “biodegradable” and “compostable”[6]. Experts agreed that there certainly needs to be more cohesion around sustainability claims being made, and a greater emphasis on consumer education to ensure that sustainable products are being disposed of in the correct way.

Innovation in packaging

The final speaker of the day was Paul Jenkins, Founder and Managing Director of ThePackHub, who presented some of the latest and biggest innovations in packaging, helping brands to reduce their carbon emissions. Case studies included using recycled materials or biomaterials, improving stacking efficiency for transport, reducing the weight and size of packaging, and using a refill system.

Discussion around refillable products was notable in the breakout sessions, with Tuna Ziver Yöney, Founder of Ziver Organiques Skincare advising that refills are only sometimes a viable option and that he’d encountered some resistance to the idea of refills. Meanwhile, Ketchen suggested that because refills aren’t a big trend yet, companies probably won’t invest until the concept is fully established. Soffe recommended that to be successful, refills need to be convenient and incentivised for consumers.

Victoria Brownlie, Chief Policy & Sustainability Officer at the British Beauty Council, also weighed in on the topic. She said, “Sustainability in the beauty industry is a key issue for the British Beauty Council. We established the Sustainable Beauty Coalition as a result of our Courage to Change Report in 2020 which outlined the need for industry to stop working in silos and look at more effective ways of collaborating if we are to meet our shared challenges and reduce our environmental impact.

“Creating a truly sustainable beauty industry is not just an environmental imperative; it is a strategic business decision. By embracing sustainability, we can meet consumer demand, enhance brand reputation, improve cost efficiency, and prepare for future regulations.

Opportunities for industry to come together to identify and resolve barriers to sustainable business practices can help build a future that is not only beautiful but also responsible and profitable, which we support wholeheartedly.”

Final thoughts

The event explored the steps the industry needs to take to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions. Discussions shined a spotlight on the biggest barriers facing (particularly small and medium) businesses in the cosmetics industry, when it comes to achieving Net Zero. The experts agreed that greater industry collaboration and standardisation across different regional markets is essential.

Meanwhile, the experts agreed that more effective consumer education is needed to ensure that sustainable practices are being implemented, beyond the point of sale and throughout the entire product lifecycle. Further, the session explored the need to tackle consumer misunderstanding and ensure that messaging is clearer, for example, misinformation and the use of technical INCI ingredients deterring some consumers.

As the Co-Lab experts closed the day, the unanimous agreement was that while the beauty industry is impacting the environment, it can also hold the key to the solution.

For information on the in-cosmetics Global Co-Labs and the next event being held in Düsseldorf, Germany, please visit, https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/join-the-co-lab.html

in-cosmetics Global returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, bringing together top suppliers and manufacturers to inspire the future of cosmetics. For more information about the event, please visit the website here.

Click here to learn more about the Sustainability Zone and Sustainability Zone Forum, where representatives from both The Carbon Trust and ThePackHub will be speaking.

[1] https://www.carbontrust.com/our-work-and-impact/guides-reports-and-tools/greenhouse-gloss-is-the-beauty-industrys-commitment-to-tackling-climate-change-more-than-skin-deep

[2] https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/uk-and-global-emissions-and-temperature-trends/#:~:text=The%20UK%20ranked%2017th,followed%20by%20transport%20with%2025%25.

[3] https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/the-beauty-boom-and-beyond-can-the-industry-maintain-its-growth

[4] https://issuu.com/hubbubuk/docs/the-courage-to-change_20_2_?fr=sODYxYjIxNTU5MzU

[5] Mintel GNPD (Global New Products Database) Europe.

[6] https://www.packagingdive.com/news/compost-recycling-report-BPI-closed-loop-partners/686039/#:~:text=The%20survey%20found%20that%20about,put%20compostable%20packaging%20in%20a

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Does anyone remember Procter & Gamble’s Reflect?  A 6 year (1999 – 2005), $80 million experiment that provided customized make-up, skincare, haircare and perfume to its customers.  The products were shipped to consumers within 5 days after creation. (Marketing Week) After the company was closed, P&G said it had been an exploratory project to gain insights into consumer preferences. Were they ahead of their time?  Or is customization too challenging to turn a profit?

Let’s take a look at some of the brands that have moved into the customization space since then.

Launched in 2015, Function of Beauty celebrates the consumer with tailor-made, naturally-derived hair care formulas, crafted by in-house chemists and beauty experts. Since launch, they created over 15 million unique, customized products with the capability of creating a unique formula every 15 seconds. This customization includes fragrance, color, size and bottle type. Formulations can change as needs change. “Give us two minutes of your time and we’ll formulate a unique haircare regimen customized just for you.”

Prose launched in 2018 with an AI-powered algorithm to personalize skincare and haircare products and routine, carefully selecting from 185+ clean ingredients. Because every person is one of a kind, Prose is replacing mass-produced with made to order — for truly personalized products and custom care for unique hair and skin needs. As consumer requirements change, Prose will modify the custom formulas accordingly. Building progress into every formula, designed to evolve over time, products are freshly bottled in their Brooklyn factory and customized to the consumer’s life style, zip code and the changing seasons.

Pure Beauty Culture launched in 2020 via an at-home skin test and questionnaire. The company creates custom formulas that consider everything from the consumer’s diet and environment to their genes and skin priorities. They strive to make it easy to build a routine that fits each consumer’s unique lifestyle. They flipped the industry’s standard approach. Instead of starting with a one-size-fits-all product, they start with each client. “You’re more than just your skin type.”

Finnish Tech company Revieve launched in 2022. The company’s proprietary technology is their digital health-beauty-wellness platform, which features easy-to-use self-diagnostic modules. They can personalize search and shopping experiences to deliver targeted products, services and treatments to their clients. Their true-to-life AI and AR try-on platform proves “Beauty is Personal. Unleash the Power to Be Unique.”

Strands is a science-driven, premium, direct-to-consumer brand that launched in 2020, using results of scalp and hair testing to individualize haircare. The Hair Lab, a mass-market offshoot, entered Walmart in 2022. Their latest offspring, The Body Lab, launching shortly in Walmart, is anticipated to do $10 million in their first year.

Thinking through the category of customization on a broader scope brings me to Starbucks. With more than 170,000 ways to customize beverages at Starbucks stores, customers can create a favorite drink that fits their lifestyle. The concept of the “IKEA effect” refers to the psychological phenomenon where individuals place a higher value on products they have partially created or customized themselves. Starbucks expertly capitalizes on this effect by involving customers in the creation process of their drinks. By allowing patrons to customize their beverages down to the smallest detail, Starbucks taps into the innate human desire for autonomy and self-expression. As a result, customers feel a deeper connection to their Starbucks drinks, elevating their perceived value and fostering brand loyalty. By embracing customization as a cornerstone of its brand identity, Starbucks has transformed the coffee-drinking experience into a deeply personal and gratifying ritual for millions of people worldwide.

Back to beauty:

Estimates are all over the board, but the most mentioned number of beauty brands in the United States is about 4300.  I think that’s low…none the less, it’s hard for me to imagine there isn’t already a product on the shelf for every need and preference. Fenty has made 50 foundation shades table stakes!!

Can customization scale, make money, be efficient?  From my perspective, it remains to be seen.  Starbucks, claiming 170,000 variations of their drinks, made customization their mantra.  As we all know, they are now having their own set of issues and one of them is the amount of time baristas spend customizing consumer orders.

Technology is certainly a key element in the future and success of this progression.  Consumers believe customization is critical.  I’ve seen many failed attempts.  More to come for sure.  I can’t wait to see where we’ll be in another 5 years!!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Trends in Colour Cosmetics

Tracking consumer trends in any category is like forecasting the weather: unpredictable and unreliable! Consumers move in mysterious ways today. While it’s always been true that for every trend there’s a counter trend, that’s never been truer than now!

Still, we continue to look for patterns, behavioural changes and indicators in many consumer categories that may tell us something about where beauty trends are headed.

Those of us who love tracking consumer behaviour will continue to do so. When we’re wrong, we hope no one notices!

What I’m reviewing here is not newly emerging. These directions have staying power and are, I believe, indicators worth exploring.

Colour Cosmetics + Skincare Ingredients

Makeup is increasingly linked to skincare. The demand for products that also demonstrate skin benefits like radiance, hydration, or UV and pollution protection are becoming essential. Foundation seems like the most logical place to start, but it doesn’t stop categories such as blush, brow gel and eye liner from jumping on board.
What we’re seeing is a creation of hybrid products that combine the artistry of makeup with the science of skin care.

Here are a few examples I believe are noteworthy:

Ciele Tint & PROTECT SPF 50+ Tinted Serum Foundation
Jones Road Miracle Balm All-Over Glow (this could also be added to the “Glow” list that follows)
Kosas Revealer Concealer
Chanel N°1 de Chanel Lip and Cheek Balm
Ilia Limitless Lash Mascara
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner
Valde Beauty Ritual Creamy Satin Lipstick
Kjaer Weis FeatherTouch Brow Gel

Glisten & Glow

While the pendulum may swing back and forth between radiant and matte, the fact remains, glowing skin is aspirational. Radiant skin looks healthier, younger, more energetic and vibrant. TikTok loves this category because of its powerful visual appeal and attraction.

The entries in this category are substantial. There are few brands without one. This is a random sampling.

RMS Beauty Luminizer The OG glow. It doesn’t get better than this!
Chanel Le Blanc Rosy Light Drops
Kosas Glow I.V. Vitamin-Infused Skin Illuminating Enhancer
Armani Beauty Fluid Sheer Glow Enhancer
Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter Sticks

Lash-Out with Colour! Coloured Mascara is having a moment!

Red, pink, yellow, purple, green or blue, lashes have never had such a rainbow of colors to choose from. Like hair color and nail lacquer, there is no limit on the color palette.
Pat McGrath Dark Star Colour Blitz Mascara: red, fuchsia, azure, jade
Kiko Milano Smart Colour Mascara: purple, emerald, bright blue, metallic burgundy
ColourPop BFF Volumizing Mascara: blue, red, green, purple, pink
Chanel Noir Allure: red, orange, lilac

Many brands have jumped in here: Chanel, Valde, Hermès, Fenty Beauty, Dries Van Noten, Hourglass, Dior, Kjaer Weis, Lush and Guerlain.
Anecdotal evidence from beauty influencers and consumer reviews suggests positive reception. Consumers appreciate the ability to reduce waste and often view refillable products as a luxury or premium option. However, I’m not hearing great reviews from suppliers on this topic. It can also be complicated for retailers, forcing them to carry additional inventory. From the few I’ve spoken with, sales are not robust.

As much as the concept feels like the right thing to do, carrying and displaying an expensive lipstick is part of our industry’s DNA. When the case starts to look shop-worn (and they all do after weeks or months in a bag), buying a refill to keep the original case out of landfill is probably unlikely.

The entire refill concept remains controversial. There are experts who say the refills only exacerbate the carbon footprint. The jury is still out.

Hot/Interesting Products

Milk MakeUp really scored on this one. Sticks are hot in all categories and their Cooling Water Jelly Sticks are playful, easy to use and very social media friendly. Lots of press and a quick sell-out!
Milk MakeUp Cooling Water Jelly Tint Sheer Lips & Cheek Stain

Lush Earth Naked Mascara launched last year with an interesting concept. A blend of butters and waxes are moulded into a solid form so no plastic packaging is required. The consumer wets one of the 3 brush choices (no plastic in the brush), twirls it inside the mascara “roll”, picks up the desired amount of product and applies it to lashes. It’s a new gesture that requires a bit of practice, but scores high for innovation.

For the colour crazy beauty consumer, there’s plenty of action and lots to choose from. New textures and delivery systems work their magic and adding a few skin friendly ingredients doesn’t hurt either.

Whether it’s for self-expression, confidence boosting, transformation, mental health “therapy” or just plain fun, there’s nothing that beats make up for a feel-good vibe!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

in-cosmetics Global brought together leading minds from the cosmetic and personal care sector, as well as eminent sustainability and regulatory experts for the first ever ‘Co-Lab’ event held at White City House, London. The event focused on untangling sustainability complexities and fostering discussions on confusing and varying interpretations of practices.

Presentations emphasised the significance of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in supporting cosmetic brands and unveiled regulatory insights set to transform the landscape of sustainable industry practices. Group brainstorms also played a crucial role throughout the day, providing attendees with the chance to share their own insights, address key sector challenges, and collaboratively explore innovative, sustainable solutions.

The world of cosmetics is undergoing rapid change, with sustainability shifting from a trend to a necessity. But what is really driving momentum in the cosmetic and personal care sector and how is it being implemented?

Sustainability sells!

According to McKinsey and Company, over the last five years, products that make environmental, social and governance (ESG)-related claims have grown disproportionately, accounting for over half (56%) of all market growth.

However, this isn’t the whole story. Throughout the session’s presentations and group discussions, the professionals were unanimous that despite consumers consistently reporting favouring sustainable products, they are unwilling to compromise on performance and quality. Of course, this can pose several challenges when it comes to formulation: Industry professionals detailed the complexities of adapting and reformulating an existing product in a more sustainable way, without impacting the finished product. They also discussed this can take significant time and cost, which – they caution – some smaller firms may not be able to shoulder. Many agreed that green chemistry methods can enable cosmetics formulators to combine naturally derived ingredients and sustainable practices while maximising cosmetic performance.

Confusion in the market

Consumer mistrust in sustainability claims is indeed a significant issue, and studies like the one by the European Commission highlight this. According to the study, 53.3% of environmental claims in the EU were found to be vague, misleading, or unfounded, while 40% were unsubstantiated.

One of the big issues is the host of different environmental and ethical claims that beauty brands can make about their products. Claims vary hugely and can include anything from animal welfare and social responsibility (fair wages for workers) to plant-based/vegan, organic positioning, and sustainable packaging. Therefore, it’s understandable that consumers can be left confused and may have simplistic views of what sustainable beauty products truly are.

To make matters more complex, regulatory mandates can vary hugely from one market to another. For brands operating in multiple regions, the lack of a consistent, cross-regional approach to regulations means they can be extremely difficult to address.

Additionally, the physical practice of adding sustainability credentials to cosmetics packaging can be tricky. As brands look to reduce the size of their packaging – to remove empty space, use fewer resources, and produce less waste, or remove packaging altogether – the opportunity to market and communicate certain credentials and messaging diminishes.

Sustainability credentials

Today, many savvy consumers are seeking the opportunity to be educated on what’s really behind the cosmetics they are purchasing. Therefore, if we are to see growth in the industry it is important that cosmetics brands are working hard to boost consumer trust and improve transparency.

To improve their sustainability credentials, brands need to be as comprehensive and holistic as possible in their approach. For example, if brands cherry-pick which elements they want to focus on – such as focusing on sustainable packaging but failing to acknowledge carbon emissions – credentials can lose their meaning.

Certified sustainability

While many cosmetics brands do have some form of sustainable practices in place, there currently isn’t a standardised approach for measuring and documenting credentials. Businesses can employ various approaches, including certifications, which come in three degrees: self-certification, second-party, and third-party. Common examples of third-party frameworks include the COSMOS-standard, NATRUE standard, and the RSB framework.

Scores on the doors

As part of her session, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy, focused on the concept that if sustainability can be measured, then “a scoring system for sustainable products should be feasible.” Olioso described how The EcoBeautyScore Consortium has developed an industry-wide environmental impact assessment and scoring system for cosmetics products. The collective currently has over 70 stakeholders, including big players such as Unilever, Johnson & Johnson, and L’Oreal.

When discussing the Eco Beauty Scores, the professionals described what they considered to be some of the key challenges of implementing the system. Primarily, it can be difficult to identify the criteria for a score, as there are so many potential factors to take into account. According to the professionals, the system has everything it needs to succeed, but stakeholders “need to find a way to simplify it”.

Introducing LCAs

Another increasingly popular option for cosmetic brands is to commission a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). LCAs provide brands with a holistic overview of how eco-friendly their products are, with a complete breakdown of the emissions at each stage and how they can be reduced. The assessments examine every stage of the product lifecycle – from cradle to grave. Starting with the raw material extraction, then looking at the manufacturing processes, distribution, how the product is used by the consumer, whether it can be recycled, and ultimately, disposal.

LCAs can be a useful tool for brands, however, some of our professionals shared some of their concerns. Not only can LCAs be considered costly and time-consuming, but they also described how the system could potentially be branded as greenwashing. For context, an LCA only covers the areas of a product that the business requests and often targets “low-hanging fruit”; exploring the areas which can be addressed quickly and easily.

Stretching resources

Lack of resources – both time and cost – is one of the biggest roadblocks for sustainability in the cosmetics industry. The experts discussed how many brands don’t have a sustainability department and as such, it can be difficult to put the resources in place.

For many businesses, it may not be financially viable to set up a sustainability team or make new hires to pick up the work. Therefore, it’s often an add-on to existing departments, stretching resources thin. While a third-party certification, assessment, or another metric, can lighten the internal workload, it can also be costly.

Moving forward

As an industry, it’s essential to rethink the way that we develop and manufacture new ingredients and finished products. However, it’s not going to be an easy task. With government regulations evolving, the session concluded that it is essential that formulators consider the resilience of the ingredients and processes being used and how they will fare in the future.

When it comes to understanding their beauty ingredients and products, the professionals highlighted the notion that consumers often want black and white concepts and rules. But, in reality, the cosmetics landscape is grey. The professionals agreed that variety is (and will be) what leads to better sustainability overall.

Though some form of standardised metrics certainly needs to be implemented, a balance is essential. In order to create high-performing, innovative products, which are also able to stand up from a sustainability perspective, formulators need some flexibility to operate within parameters.

To drive genuine, positive change in the industry, collaboration and unification will be key in combatting the challenges that lie ahead.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Visit in-cosmetics Korea on 12-14 July to get more insights into K-Beauty, formulations and technology, with the K-Beauty Inspiration Zone.

There are more than six million Instagram posts alone tagged #kbeauty…and that’s not counting all the variations on the theme. South Korean brands, ingredients and beauty routines have caught the imaginations of beauty shoppers the world over – particularly those of what’s been coined the MZ Generation[1] – Millennials now in their late 20s and 30s, and Gen Z, in their teens and early 20s – helped by the reach social media offers.

And while K-Beauty isn’t new, it’s still growing rapidly – a sign that it’s still a long way from being a mature sector. In fact, researchers[2] expect it to grow at a CAGR [compound annual growth rate] of 9.2% until 2030 to reach US$18.32 billion.

When it comes to why K-Beauty products are so popular, it’s not only down to their efficacy; a unique combination of innovative ingredients and formulations, a commitment to natural and cruelty-free ethos, and a willingness to embrace technology, are all underpinned by South Korea’s long tradition of skincare understanding. That is also driven by the fact that South Korea is also considered the “capital” of both skincare and plastic surgery, and with an emphasis on beautiful skin, South Koreans learn about effective skincare from a very early age[3].

To find out more about why K-Beauty is at the forefront of the skincare industry and what this year’s in-cosmetics Korea holds for attendees this year, three key exhibitors in the K-Beauty Inspiration Zone shared their take on the market.

Trending now

Rachel Kim, who heads up the overseas market for ingredients specialist, Daebong Life Science, explained some of the biggest trends right now. She said that the pandemic increased the importance of beauty and has since seen more consumers eager to embrace skincare, because prolonged mask-wearing had detrimental effects on their skin. “Cosmetics that protect and sooth irritated skin have become trending items in the skincare market.”

She added that environmental and hygiene issues are also now more significant to beauty buyers, meaning ‘clean’ beauty – both ethical and environment-friendly – are becoming major focus areas.

“Clean beauty has become a mega-trend, a culture and behaviour pursued by Korean consumers,” she said, adding: “20.8% of Korean skincare launches in 2022 were vegan cosmetics[4] and this has continued to increase its market share. At the same 35% of South Koreans are willing to spend more on eco-friendly products[5]…As the MZ generation, the main consumer group, values ethical consumption, clean beauty has become a major marketing keyword for most brands.”

Kim’s comments chime with McKinsey & Co. insight that states Gen Z consumers do their research before making a purchase[6]. Nearly half of Gen Z survey respondents said they did “extensive research on product ingredients and their benefits before purchase, similar to Millennials”. McKinsey’s report also states that beyond product efficacy, younger consumers expect brands to stand for something, have an “authentic and approachable image” and a story that transcends the products. All attributes that K-Beauty players have embraced.

Adèle Nowak, Account Manager at plant enzyme specialist, Enzybel, and Monika Buchholz, Scientific Marketing Specialist of plant bio-product specialist, Vytrus Biotech, both agree with Kim that ‘conscious’ beauty products are growing in importance. Nowak said: “As consumers are getting more and more conscious about their health and their environmental impact, we see growth in sustainable and natural products that are made with non-toxic ingredients.”

And Buchholz added: “Latest emerging developments and shifts in consumer preferences could accurately outline the future of K-beauty over the next five to 10 years. These would be along the lines of the concepts of sustainability and clean beauty, as well as innovation in lab-grown ingredients (biotechnology) due to the benefits of efficacy, sustainability, and possibility to work with plants without harming nature. Those may play an important role in the integration of advanced personalized skincare solutions.”

All three pointed to social media as a key to K-Beauty’s success, with products and techniques booming in popularity, not only in Asia-Pacific, but also globally. Nowak referenced the success of Korean influencers in raising the profile of products’ efficacy to drive the popularity of K-Beauty, and Kim points to the MZ Generation’s social media use.

“The younger generation is more proficient in the use of social media and influenced by influencer celebrities,” she said, adding: “Overall, the rise in popularity of K-Beauty across social media can be attributed to a combination of innovative products, skincare emphasis, natural ingredients, appealing packaging influencer marketing, cultural influence and increased accessibility.” She also pointed to the wider global interest in all things South Korean, from K-Pop to Korean television dramas and films.

Buchholz added that the popularity of K-beauty across social media could be attributed to its innovative products, skincare-focused philosophy, cultural fascinations and the emphasis on inclusivity and customisation.

Tech takeover

Brands are already scrambling to meet the demands of the MZ Generation for clean, ethical products, according to Kim, but she also stressed that consumers also expect products to be effective. “Brands recognise that consumers want to see results, as well as ingredients they consider to be ‘safe’. This means ‘Cleanical’ skincare is the future of clean beauty with ingredients that are clinically proven. Even now most of the raw ingredients companies and brands are moving in that direction.” She said more brands will look to ingredients, such as marine algae, to protect the skin’s microbiome and bio-cellulose forming film as a replacement for silicon. Nowak also underlined sustainable, natural products at the forefront of future developments.

It’s important to remember that South Korean brands have helped to drive the use of technology in skincare – from smart beauty devices to virtual skincare consultations, and this is likely to become more sophisticated. Tech, including AI skin analysis tools, work with mobile phones to analyse a consumer’s skin condition or enable virtual make-up try-on and then recommend the correct products and routines. Using AI to recommend specific ingredients also enables brands to create products tailored for individual consumers’ needs.

Ingredients to watch

With younger consumers incorporating active ingredients in their skincare routines, Kim says there’s now a large number of ingredients coming to market that help to balance and strengthen the skin barrier with the most frequently used ingredients, according to data from South Korean health and beauty retailer Olive Young, being Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, and Centella Asiatica. She added that while these might be familiar ingredients, already listed in many products, ingredients suppliers are working to upgrade their efficacy by varying molecule sizes according to how they will be used.

Trending ingredients highlighted by exhibitor are:

• Centella Asiatica – an Asian herb used to treat skin conditions for millennia
• Houttuynia Cordata – anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial
• Propolis is a compound created by bees to hold the hive together, which when used in skincare can help diminish wrinkles and smooth skin
• Snail mucin, or snail secretion filtrate is known for its hydrating properties
• Fermented extracts, which might be of fruit, herbs or yeast, are added to skincare to help maintain the microbiome
• Adaptogens are herbal compounds that can help stressed skin

K-Beauty Inspiration Zone

More than 280 cosmetics and personal care ingredients suppliers are set to exhibit in the K-Beauty Inspiration Zone at this year’s event, all demonstrating the very latest in ingredient innovation.

Daebong Life Science will showcase Jeju Centella Asiatica Extract. “Although Centella is already famous in the Korean Beauty market, we differentiate by selecting just four types, all of which have a higher triterpene content of more than 100ppm (parts per million) in total and is only grown in the clean area Jeju. We then apply GreenDiol, a 100% natural humectant and the only polyol in the human body to the triterpene extraction process, which results in higher active ingredients when compared to using other solvent, such as ethanol for the extraction process,” said Kim.

In line with recent skincare trends across TikTok, namely ‘SkinTok’, Enzybel will exhibit HELISKIN, a snail secretion filtrate that Nowak said has the “highest concentration of natural active ingredients, such as Allantoin, Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic Acid”.

Nowak explained: “One of our main features is to have direct access to regions where snails live naturally. This snail secretion filtrate is a sustainable product, as it is naturally produced by the snails. We can collect massive volumes of mucin without hurting the snails; the mucin is then refined and concentrated at our facility in Belgium.”

For Vytrus Biotech the focus at the event will be on a new concept, the Photobiome Factor and how the skin microbiota interacts with the sun to trigger a new microbiota pathway to fight skin photoaging. The award-winning Photobiome, which is based on sustainable plant biotechnology opens the door to a new category of microbial antioxidants by helping skin microbiota photoprotect itself by protecting and nourishing bacteria, modulating the release of its own natural photo-defence molecules to improve the signs of the photoaging process on the skin, said Buchholz.

The three said they were expecting strong interest at this year’s show. “We know our snail mucin is the highest quality on the market and expect it to be used in some of the most prestigious Korean skincare brands,” said Nowak, with Kim adding: “We want to be recognised by our customers as an active, professional company that is capable of not only developing Jeju and plants that are native to South Korea and active raw materials from marine products, but also pharmaceutical-level, high-purity or green bio-synthetic raw materials.”

“We want to continue to raise awareness of the potential of nature-inspired solutions and biotechnology that helps us to create skin and hair care actives based on innovation and sustainability.”

in-cosmetics Korea will take place from 12-14 July 2023 at the Coex Convention & Exhibition Center in Seoul, South Korea. For more information and to register to attend, visit here.

[1] https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/culture/2023/05/135_339490.html

[2] K-Beauty Products Market Trend, Growth to 2022-2030 (straitsresearch.com)

[3] https://sensient-beauty.com/insights/innovative-skincare-trends-why-the-k-beauty-wave-is-still-going-strong/

[4] Daebong Life Science internal market trend stats

[5] Daebong Life Science internal market trend stats

[6] https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-beauty-market-in-2023-a-special-state-of-fashion-report#/

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

A scientist’s first-hand account of in-cosmetics Korea.

Senior exploration scientist, John Jimenez, takes us through his experience of the Korean edition of in-cosmetics. Korea is a leading country for trends in the cosmetics world and John uses his knowledge and insights of the industry to give an in-depth look at what trends and inspirations are coming up in 2023 and beyond.

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This year I had the great opportunity to visit in-cosmetics Korea and participate as a jury for the innovation awards. I also had the opportunity to present the prizes to the winners in the functional ingredients category. It really was a wonderful experience.

This was the first time I visited this fair and it exceeded my expectations. I have had the opportunity to participate as a jury in other fairs, such as in-cosmetics Global, in-cosmetics Latin America and in-cosmetics Asia in different years and the truth is, this experience was very different.

To start off with, I want to say that I am Colombian and I am a lover of good coffee. I love discovering new coffees, new aromatic profiles and new textures, especially those related to high altitude varieties, which are specialty coffees produced in the green mountains deep in the Colombian Andes.

When coffee is grown above 2,000 meters, the metabolism of the plant changes and natural flavours and aromas of cocoa, chocolate and wood are created. When I arrived in Seoul and started walking around the city, I was surprised to find out that coffee has become one of the star businesses in South Korea.

Statistics indicate that per capita consumption is almost triple the world average, with each inhabitant consuming an average of 353 cups of coffee per year, which corresponds to 2.7 times more than the world average, well above Colombia. Coffee shop sales in Korea exceed $4.3 billion, the third largest turnover after coffee shops in the United States and China. So, it was really a great sensory experience to discover many specialty coffees in Seoul and precisely in places close to Coex, the place where the fair was held.

And just like coffee, cosmetics is also a sensory and trend-setting world. For cosmetics lovers, visiting Seoul is a great opportunity to learn about trends. I had the pleasure of visiting several places that are really fascinating due to the number of stores and the variety of formats, textures and brands.

To begin with, in the Gangnam district there are endless shopping malls, stores, and venues, including innovative flagship proposals where brands seek to surprise. We can find brands that offer free coffee, others are literally a coffee, like Skin Food, there are others that are a cinema like 3Ce and others that simulate art galleries. There are stores that are huge, like Olive Young, which can receive 10,000 people a day and with many references from different brands.

If we think of the equivalent of Times Square in New York, Shibuya in Tokyo, Gran Vía in Madrid or Calle 85 in Bogotá, without a doubt, it is Korea’s Myeongdong. It gave me the impression that all its streets were dedicated to cosmetics. In general, you can find three types of spaces: stores in the streets, which are of specific brands, shopping malls, in which we can find local and western stores, and multi-brand stores.

Technological development at the fair was impressive. I was struck by the presence of several suppliers that come from the pharmaceutical area. In other words, there is an increasingly thin line between the cosmetic and pharmaceutical and new technologies are on the border between these two worlds. This is something interesting, since, in the future, in other regions such as the West, legislation will also evolve to allow the use of ingredients with pharmaceutical technology and quality in cosmetic products, including new molecules and new anti-ageing release actives with drug-inspired concepts.

White and blue biotechnology are also a driver of innovation in the development of new products. Another technological trend that caught my attention were the actives for oral hygiene and cleaning. Globally, we are experiencing a boom in hyaluronic acid products and derivatives, and at the fair I was struck by the large number of suppliers that are working on this trend. Microbiome care is also a global trend and this is a category where suppliers came up with many innovations and new applications. We also saw new excipients, viscosity agents and film formers of natural origin, which allow the development of almost 100% natural emulsions. The fair also had a section developed with Mintel to illustrate the latest successful product launches on the market in K-Beauty concepts.

“Back to basics” is another of the trends that was all the rage at the fair and that have been prominent in product launches in the last six months. The objective is to bring back those ingredients that are traditional and known, but repowered, that is, with new efficacy tests, in new delivery systems and with new studies.

For this reason, we are now seeing ingredients such as panthenol, vitamin C, madecassoside and derivatives of Centella asiatica, ceramides, aloe vera, vegan collagen, glutathione, ferments, prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic active ingredients, tea tree, charcoal, AHAs, niacinamide, tomato and chamomile. In the last six months we have also seen an increase in product concepts related to green, vegan, wellness, waterless and sustainability. Masks and especially sheet masks continue to specialize with a wide variety of textures and formats.

What does K-Beauty hold for us in the future? Intimate beauty is a cosmetic driver in Korea and it is starting to become so in the West as well. The mask and hyaluronic acid boom is increasingly present in the main regions of the world and we will see new applications and technologies in this category.

Back to basics is also a booming trend, driven by the pandemic and by the localism trend, so different regions are rescuing traditional ingredients known for their effectiveness. Healthy glow is a trending claim that we have already seen in recent months in many regions of the world. Multi-use products are also important because there’s a strong trend toward simplifying routines and we are seeing proposals and concepts of hybrid products in the main markets globally. Fermented beauty is another of the categories where we see a great opportunity for innovation and it is an area where suppliers will continue to present very interesting innovations at upcoming fairs.

In summary, I want to say that Seoul is the perfect destination for cosmetic lovers. The cosmetic capital of the world is the cradle of K-Beauty, a great source of trends and inspiration that are a fundamental factor for innovation in the new post-pandemic reality that we are experiencing.

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Want to experience it for yourself? Register your interest for 2023 so you don’t miss out.

Purchases take shape this fortnight, with Estée Lauder announcing it has snapped up Tom Ford and acne brand, Zitsticka, revealing its got a new owner to help expand its digital presence. One company seeking to deepen microbiome understanding receives $20 million funding, while skincare devices and ingredient launches seek to advance intelligence and innovation in the segment.

In our bi-weekly roundup, we take a look at the latest in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Get the latest news on acquisitions, launches and trends evolving the beauty space.

Estée Lauder Companies purchases Tom Ford

In an acquisition worth a reported €2.7 billion ($2.8 billion), global beauty manufacturer and marketer Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has signed an agreement to buy luxury fashion house, Tom Ford.

Tom Ford first collaborated with ELC in 2006 to create and release the luxury fashion house’s first foray into fragrances and signature scent, Black Orchid. In 2011, Tom Ford released its skincare and makeup ranges in British premium retailers Harrods and Selfridges. The lines feature lip glosses, mascara and a blush kit.

In a further nod to the growth and direction of the brand’s cosmetics offering, most recently, the brand entered into the premium skincare market by developing its Tom Ford Research collection in 2019. Its skincare line strives to bring together high-performance and scientific skincare with a premium delivery system.

In ELC’s fiscal year ending 30th June 30 2022, the beauty arm of Tom Ford reached almost 25% net sales growth compared to the previous year, with particular traction in the prestige fragrance markets in the US and China, the ELC states. Over the next couple of years, the company expects Tom Ford will achieve annual net sales of one billion dollars.

The acquisition, subject to certain conditions, including regulatory approvals, is expected to close in the first half of 2023.

Nu Skin launches smart skincare device

Global beauty and wellness company Nu Skin Enterprises has released its newest offering, its ageLOC LumiSpa iO system.

Available in the US, the treatment and cleansing device aims to provide a connected, personalised and immersive skincare experience. Dubbed as the next generation of smart skincare, its ageLOC LumiSpa iO system uses Nu Skin’s patented micropulse technology to provide customised treatments, coaching and skincare routine tracking via its app.

The ageLOC LumiSpa iO system comprises the LumiSpa iO device, which consists of three non-abrasive treatment head options and five cleanser options. Nu Skin applied a science-led formulation to enable precise skin cushioning, cleansing and interaction.

Nu Skin’s proprietary micropulse oscillation technology works by a counter-rotating action that removes dirt, oil, makeup, pollutants and toxins, lifting them away without causing skin irritation. The device is designed to be microbiome friendly, respecting the skin’s pH to help preserve its natural moisture barrier.

Following a 12-week clinical efficacy study conducted by Nu Skin, the brand reports how consumers found a 58% improvement in softness, 47% improvement in smoothness, 40% improvement in brightness and 34% improvement in radiance in individuals who used the device with its normal/combo treatment cleanser.

In 2022, Nu Skin launched its Vera app to offer consumers personalised skincare experiences. Users receive a digital skin consultation that uses a guided questionnaire on a user’s skin and lifestyle. By uploading a photo, they can tap into the app’s artificial intelligence (AI) technology to identify possible skin concerns and its algorithm presents personalised product recommendations.

Users can also create and save customised facial treatments that target key skincare areas, such as the face, neck and décolleté as well as treatments for the skin around the eyes. Skincare consumers can track usage, earn badges and awards and receive treatment tutorials and coaching.

Online beauty brand ZitSticka joins Heyday

Virtual platform Heyday has acquired the digitally-native skincare brand ZitSticka in a move that seeks to expand the beauty name’s presence among global audiences.

The move signals the online consumer products company’s ongoing and increasing investment in the personal care space as it hopes to achieve a dominant position in the acne patch skincare segment. Heyday is known for acquiring and incubating digital-native brands through building partnerships with e-commerce entrepreneurs and brands.

ZitSticka is known for its acne treatment and prevention range. With a focus on evidence-based skincare that targets every stage of a zit’s life cycle, the brand designed its debut product, the KILLA patch, with specific ingredients for acne-prone skin. The product’s formulation also contains self-dissolving microdarts that aim to disrupt the progression of upcoming and early-stage acne.

By teaming up with Heyday, Zitsticka hopes to expand in the retail landscape. Via the Heyday platform, ZitSticka will have access to technology, data, supply chain and growth capabilities to support the skincare name, explore omnichannel opportunities, grow its product offering and build brand equity.

Eagle Genomics generates $20 million for microbiome science

Technology and biology-led Eagle Genomics, which seeks to develop an understanding of the microbiome through conversations and data, has received €19.5 million ($20 mn) in its latest funding round. Microbiome refers to an ecosystem of bacteria, fungi and viruses present in living organisms.

The scale-up funding aims to accelerate the application of microbiome science, including the continued development of the AI-augmented knowledge discovery platform, e[datascientist], and its ongoing expansion into global markets. The e[datascientist] uses science and multilayer hypergraphs to apply machine learning and AI. It aims to provide data-driven insights into how companies can overcome large-scale complex problems.

With a focus on ‘One Health’, a concept that recognises more sustainable and impact-oriented product outcomes, Eagle Genomics centres its research and understanding on microbiome and host-microbiome interactions as the common denominator across these domains, it states. It aims to show the connection between products, microbiome health and ‘One Health’ related issues.

Eagle Genomics also aims to understand new key bio-active ingredients that could deliver health benefits or target a particular health benefit and work backwards through data to identify key ingredients. The TechBio name hopes to close the current ‘translation gap’ and address critical bottlenecks in the industrial application of microbiome science.

Differentiating beauty and personal care items and product claims in the industry’s microbiome space has been highlighted as a core area of focus. Areas of interest include personalised and stratified cosmetics such as skin, oral, scalp, pre/pro/postbiotics, ingredient manufacturing, cosmeceuticals and genital health/personal hygiene products.

The funding round was led by abrdn plc, along with existing investors, including Environmental Technologies Fund and a consortium led by Granpool Innovative Investments.

Inolex launches two new ingredients

Cosmetic and personal care ingredient manufacturer, Inolex, has launched its latest ingredients: Lexgard GH70 Natural and Spectrastat GHL Natural. Designed to offer sustainability and natural preservation, the brand strives to add further options to its range of technologies that strive to protect products from microbial contamination.

The brand states its Lexgard GH70 Natural (Glyceryl Heptanoate) ingredient represents the first of its kind in the market. It is a non-palm, 100% natural, ultra-mild preservation component. The patent-pending, multifunctional ingredient is a plant-based bacteriostatic medium chain terminal diol designed to provide antimicrobial control in formulations.

Inolex created its Hurdle Technology System to achieve the inclusion of antimicrobial properties in cosmetics. Borrowing the concept from food science, the system deploys multiple components, or a series of hurdles, to inhibit microbial contamination.

Its Spectrastat GHL Natural (Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Glyceryl Heptanoate (and) Propanediol) ingredient is designed to be an ultra-mild and 100% natural preservation system that uses a combination of multifunctional ingredients to enable formulators to produce self-preserving formulations.

Inolex states that both ingredients are suited to sensitive skin, facial care and baby care applications and have clear formulations.

“We employ the Hurdle Technology approach across our portfolio of safe preservation options, using multiple barriers to control microbial growth,” notes Lisa Gandolfi, PhD, VP of Marketing. “This intelligent combination of different preservation techniques, or ‘hurdles’, allows brands to achieve broad spectrum, mild, and reliable preservation effects with consumer acceptable ingredients.”

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Haircare applications and active ingredients rank highest among APAC professionals

28 October 2022: While the Asia Pacific (APAC) region has long been recognised for its leading position in the skincare market, new analysis by in-cosmetics Asia and Covalo, has revealed the categories gaining traction in the region. Among the surprising shifts, the haircare category was among the most searched-for, with 55% of users in the APAC region looking for relevant haircare ingredients. This compares to just 36% worldwide. It was followed by skincare (19%), make-up (15%) and suncare (3%).

Meanwhile, the most popular ingredient functions searched for by APAC personal care professionals saw active ingredients, emollients, plant extracts, emulsifiers and surfactants make the top five searches, followed by rheology modifiers, thickeners, antioxidants, pigments, and preservatives. This mirrored wider international trends, with the top five functions proving of equal importance to formulators across the globe.

The research also revealed that claims such as ‘plant-based’ and ‘natural’ make up over 90% of all searches by personal care professionals in the APAC region, at 50% and 41% respectively. This compares to just 45% globally. In addition, terms such as upcycled, bio, clean and biodegradable saw less than 1% of all searches. While the limitation on search terms may suggest that the international market is more mature and demanding in terms of sustainability, the popularity of plant-based ingredients is only set to continue to grow as consumers seek out more plant-based goods.

Haircare: transforming formulations with natural ingredients

Reflecting this growing interest in the haircare sector, research by Euromonitor revealed growth was anticipated over the next four years to 2026[i]. Heightened awareness among consumers looking to solve common hair problems, such as dandruff, hair loss and hair thinning continues to drive this growth, with many consumers looking for non-surgical procedures and at-home products to overcome these issues.

Among the notable trends highlighted by Euromonitor, no-rinse products are gaining popularity in China, while in India there is an increased demand for ayurvedic and natural haircare products, with natural ingredients such as sandalwood, jasmine, rose, aloe vera and almond being embraced by local brands.

As the second biggest segment represented at in-cosmetics Asia – the leading event in the Asia Pacific (APAC) region for personal care ingredients, more than 300 haircare products from over 120 exhibitors will be on display, helping the regional and global personal care community discover the most relevant, and innovative haircare ingredients. From colouring, conditioning, cleansing and styling, exhibitors including AVT Natural Products, ColorClay, Elementis, Essencia, Evonik, Lubrizol Life Science, Provital, Vantage Personal Care and more will help demonstrate how formulators can take their new product development to the next level.

For example, Henry Lamotte Oils will demonstrate its diverse range of oils suitable for haircare applications, including Avocado, Babassu, Brazilnut, Coconut, Grapeseed, Groundnut, Hemp, Jojoba, Meadowfoam, Sacha Inchi, Paradise Nut and Tamanu.

Using an extract derived from the shell of a black-lipped pearl oyster found in the Tahiti Sea, SEIWA KASEI will introduce attendees to its BLACK PEARL Extract which is designed to achieve conditioned and moisturised hair. Elsewhere, Lubrizol Life Science will demonstrate long-lasting colour protection with its Chromapol ColorPOP polymer. It helps maintain a true colour with vibrant tonality and intensity while providing conditioning and smoothness benefits to the hair fiber.

Haircare gets technical

In addition to an array of exciting new products on the show floor, a series of Technical Seminars will explore the latest ingredients to transform haircare formulations. Pornpan Singhapantu, Association TS&D Scientist, Dow will focus on bio-based ingredients for hair, including its CD-1 Polymer – a cationic dextran polysaccharide, biodegradable, 81% bio-based carbon content hair conditioning polymer that provides deposition aids with benefit agents such as silicones or natural oils. In another session, Alexandre Lapeyre, Global Head of Marketing & Business Development, Clariant, will explore the role of psychoemotional stress on hair and scalp well-being. He will explore how plants with strong anti-stress potential helps reduce the effects of psychoemotional stress on hair and stimulates vitality.

The latest innovations in haircare technology

The crème de la crème of the industry’s most pioneering new ingredients will be put on display at this year’s Innovation Zone, the starting point on many attendees’ must-see list. On the zone this year, out of the 75 on show, 10 new ingredients, launched over the past 8 months, will demonstrate the latest ingredients to transform haircare formulations. For example, Vytrus Biotech will highlight its active ingredient ELAYA RENOVA also described as the “hair tensegrist”. Made from plant stem cells, the natural active boosts hair tensegrity, an arquitecture-inspired concept which considers the scalp, hair follicle, and hair shaft as interconnected parts. It enables protein carbonylation prevention and protection from oxidative stress and high temperatures, boosting whole hair structure of CMC, proteins and delivering nutrients to hair fibres.

Also displayed in this year’s Innovation Zone is Clariant’s Prunizen. The natural active ingredient is extracted from Prunella vulgaris – a herbaceous plant in the mint family Lamiaceae. Recognised for its apaptogenic properties, it addresses scalp and hair issue caused by psycho-emotional stressors, modulates cortisol production in the scalp and protects hair structure. In addition, it stimulates the production of oxytocin, providing a well-being effect on the scalp.

Laboratorios ARGENOL will highlight its acti-hair complex – an active ingredient containing a mixture of silver, magnesium, zinc, copper, and manganese with citric acid that is especially suited for dry, weak, dull, split, and brittle hair. While Galaxy Surfactants will demonstrate its Galseer Tresscon, a pioneering shampoo bar base designed to address the needs of the sustainability-conscious consumer. It is thought that by shifting to a solid surfactant system and replacing 1 million bottles of shampoo, Galseer Tresscon could save 50 metric tons of plastic from being disposed of[ii].

in-cosmetics Asia will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), Asia’s premier exhibition and convention centre from 1-3 November 2022. Registration is now open. For more information, please visit https://asia.in-cosmetics.com/

[i] https://www.euromonitor.com/hair-care-in-asia-pacific/report

[ii] Galaxy Internal Research