(Sponsored Content)

In this exclusive interview, we caught up with Brian Ecclefield, the Founder of  Validated Claim Support, who shares his thoughts and insights into the testing market, harmoniziation and disruptive trends as well as a secret very few people know…

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Sunscreen is exploding currently. Can you share some insights into what is going on in the field, especially with regards to testing and perhaps the role retailers and influencers are playing?

Exploding is a great adjective here, as that is exactly what sunscreen is doing at the moment.  There are numerous articles regarding underperforming sunscreens on the market, and social media is volatile with back and forth assertations and allegations.  

The global market has had a major push towards “Mineral Sunscreens” which means those which contain only Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  “Organic SPF Filters” have been somewhat vilified in a variety of markets due to their potential for degradation and interaction with the human body and the environment as a whole (as an easy example think “Reef Safe”).  

From a chemistry perspective, “Organic” or “Chemical” sunscreen filters are extremely effective and often backed by decades of bioavailability and safety studies at the global level.  Zinc and Titanium tend to have a fairly limited “efficacy range,” and only in the best formulations at extremely high quantities can the two ingredients successfully achieve water resistant SPF 50+ results. 

That said, they seem to be the two ingredients that find their way into the newest formulations, particularly within the US Market which has extremely limited filter choices due to FDA (over) regulation of the space.

With so much regulatory scrutiny and consumer skepticism, what does the future hold for cosmetic claims? Global harmonization in claims acceptability?

The market at large is currently “adapting” to push the boundaries of these “mineral” filters as far as possible, and that is often being done with “SPF Boosters” such as Butyloctyl Salicylate (BOS).

SPF Boosters are “quasi-regulated” and they do not have to appear in the “Active Ingredients” section of a sunscreen’s label despite the fact that they have a clear and direct impact upon the final SPF (the same formula with and without BOS will have a higher SPF once the BOS is added). 

Until regulatory can catch up with the “booster trend” consumers need to stay wary of “100% Mineral” SPF Label Claims, as they may be misleading since there are non mineral ingredients impacting the formula.  Chemically, BOS is very similar to Octisalate, which is an approved SPF active ingredient in most markets.

Regulatory needs to make decisions as to “inactive ingredients that are impacting the formulations performance” (which sounds to me like the definition of an “Active Ingredient!!!!!”). 

Unfortunately this will likely not be done in a “harmonized” manner as you have noted.  The EU and the US tend to go their own ways on Sunscreen and Cosmetic Regulation, and for a while with the MoCRA initiative in the US it looked like we could have moved towards some harmonization, however the current administration is in the process of “doing something serious” at the FDA. 

I think a good place to start would be “action” in the local regulatory zones which is decisive and complete.  As an example – ISO is working towards new international standards for hybrid in vivo/in vitro SPF results.  This would be a huge boon for consumer safety and testing ethics as participants would be receiving 95% or more of a reduction in delivered radiation during the efficacy/performance tests.  

 

In your opinion, what disruptive trends or technology in efficacy will render today’s methodology obsolete five or ten years down the line? 

I just mentioned the “Hybrid SPF Testing” element, which is fully known as Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy or HDRS.  Without getting into the deep science, this method will allow a much faster and safer SPF evaluation that doesn’t require directly sunburning the participants.  

This method is going to absolutely revolutionise clinical testing and claims, as for the first time it directly combines both in vivo UVB considerations as well as combining the reflectance technique which will provide insights that can’t be recognized through changes of the skin alone.  

This new method could* lead to the harmonization that you alluded to in question 3 – if we can get a formal, adopted, and approved method through ISO and FDA it will revolutionise the industry, making these tests faster and more efficient.  It will take away a lot of the variables that make the current test models so difficult, as there is no longer going to be a “subjective” assessment of the redness in the skin.  

Sunscreen testing will be utterly revolutionised – and it will actually become a much easier test to implement.  This will open up the competition and allow more players to compete in a healthy manner within the extremely niche claims and efficacy space, and it will also allow brands to conduct more of their own internal preliminary pilot research.

Can you share a secret about cosmetic testing very few people know?

Suncreen testing involves actively dosing people with UV radiation to a point where you illicit a redness response on the skin of the back.  Dumbing that down – it requires lightly sunburning 10 (and often more) people at a time.

These people also have to have a fair complexion, so sunscreen testing in upon itself is often only done on light skinned individuals.  If you see a product with an SPF that says it was “tested on all skintypes” it is definitely not talking about Fitzpatrick types, at least as far as the direct SPF efficacy is concerned.

A related one based on the above – “tested on all skintypes” OR “suitable for all skintypes” can actually mean 2 very different things.  It can mean that a product is tested on all of the Fitzpatrick skintypes, with Skintype I being the lightest and Skintype VI being the darkest, but it can also mean it is tested on a population where at least some of the individuals identify as “oily, dry, and/or combination skin.” 

 

This is a very common claim, and it’s  just about impossible to determine what categorization of “skin types” that the brand is referring to regarding the specific product data without having the test results in hand.

About our Interviewee: Brian Ecclefield, Founder, Validated Claim Support

Brian has spent the last 17 years custom developing in vivo clinical studies to help international brands build their personal care and cosmetic product portfolios. 

In 2018, he founded Validated Claim Support in the Testing, Inspection, Certification, and Compliance (TICC) space as an alternative to the “CRO Status Quo,” offering an ethical, transparent, and technologically secured solution for the modern Personal Care manufacturer.

Brian is heavily involved with consumer education and protection as it pertains to product label claims.  He has helped poke holes in misguided marketing language as an Expert Witness for cosmetic ingredients. 

By ensuring that end users gain a better understanding about what cosmetic and personal care claims actually mean and the value of doing studies the right way, Brian hopes to help make skincare clinical testing more transparent and CROs more accountable – leaving the industry a safer place for everyone.

Validated specializes in 4 main types of clinical testing to support claims:

• Expert Objective Clinical Grading
• Subjective User Perception
• Biophysical Instrumentation
• Clinical Before and After Photography

Onto the product/service we provide:

Validated Claim Support is a Skincare Clinical Testing Laboratory that conducts in-vivo (consumer/human) studies to determine how well products work.  We are decidedly “clinically” focused – we don’t do stand alone at home consumer perception studies, and our expertise is measurable endpoints – think clinical studies where participants, not @ home user consumer perception.

We conduct Expert Grading of visible changes in the skin and hair, biophysical instrumentation for things like hydration via electroconductivity, skin firmness and elasticity, surface sebum content, skin colour, skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and a wide range of other endpoint as well.

We test skincare, medical devices, OTC level ingredients, and a wide range of cosmetics (we also get into nutraceuticals but that’s less directly relevant). We’re FDA Registered and Inspected, and we ran over 70 completely custom clinical studies last year – many of which were for brands who you’ve already hosted. 

I founded VCS in 2018 as an “Alternative to the CRO (Clinical Research Organization) Status Quo” after having left two different laboratories over what I’ll call “unreconcilable ethical differences,” which proved to be extremely well founded. 

The owners of both companies have been in international news for fraud, and from my perspective, there is a very good reason.  I can tell you this, with 100% certainty. . . Skincare claims data that looks too good to be true is most definitely too good to be true!  That’s not to say that there aren’t highly effective products out there, but nothing is 100% effective 100% of the time.  This is a whole exciting topic in upon itself, and I’d be happy to chat more about it at a later time. 

Find out more about Validated Claim Support here

(Sponsored Content)

How does Catalynt align with the growing demand for sun protection and skincare innovation?

Catalynt supports personal care and cosmetics innovation by offering chemistries that help formulators meet performance, sensory, and regulatory demands.

From globally approved UV filters and multifunctional esters to preservatives, emulsifiers, and stabilizers, we provide the building blocks that enhance efficacy and elevate user experience.

As a woman-owned company with deep personal care expertise, we help brands stay agile and ahead by delivering quality ingredients, market intelligence, and nimble solutions that keep pace with consumer expectations for safety, sustainability, and skin health.

How are you addressing global chain instability and supply chain risks?

In a volatile world, Catalynt stands out for its proactive and transparent sourcing model. We maintain strategic relationships with vetted global producers and offer US-based stocking, custom blending, repackaging, and QC services to localize supply and reduce risk.

Our agile logistics team actively monitors tariffs, trade flows, and inventory positions, so customers can count on continuity. Whether managing REACH restrictions or port disruptions, we partner closely with personal care brands to anticipate challenges and create flexible pathways forward. Our goal is to help customers build resilience while navigating uncertainty.

What role does Catalynt play in the trend toward formulation flexibility and customization?

Catalynt enables flexibility by offering a curated portfolio of esters, emollients, thickeners, UV actives, and multifunctionals, along with secondary and tertiary sources already vetted and approved in collaboration with customer labs.

We provide rapid access to samples, technical data, and compliance documents to accelerate development timelines. For brands seeking differentiation, we also support custom blending and sourcing to meet unique performance or regulatory goals.

Our hands-on approach helps formulators bring innovative, inclusive products to market faster, with greater control and confidence.

Find out more about Catalynt here

About our Interviewee: Jennifer A.Calvery, Vice President of Marketing & Business Development, Catalynt

In her role, Jennifer unifies sales, business development, compliance, and tech by blending creativity with process thinking. As Director of Marketing & Business Development,  she crafts strategy, manages the brand, and drives growth through cross-functional collaboration, campaigns, and execution.

More about Jennifer A. Calvery

Feeling inspired

In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty, few terms have generated as much recent intrigue as exosomes.

Once limited to regenerative medicine, these nano-sized messengers derived from cellular processes have made their way from aesthetic clinics to one of the most discussed developments in skincare, promising to enhance skin longevity.

At this year’s in-cosmetics Global, several exhibitors notably unveiled exosome and exosome-like innovations, highlighting the growing momentum and diverse applications that are fascinating formulators and manufacturers.

Although exosomes offer advanced solutions, they remain widely misunderstood due to marketing ambiguity, regulatory grey areas and a lack of consumer education about what they truly are and how they work.

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are nanosized (30-150 nm), naturally occurring lipid-encased particles secreted by nearly all cell types in our body, including stem cells.

They are one of two primary types of extracellular vesicles (EVs), the other being ectosomes. Exosomes originate inside the cell and are released into the extracellular environment through exocytosis.

Once thought to be mere cellular debris, these vesicles carry biological material like proteins, lipids, growth factors and genetic material from one cell to another, altering the behaviour and fate of recipient cells.

They’re not living cells like stem cells but naturally function as delivery systems and are now understood to play a crucial role in intercellular communication by modulating immune responses, promoting recovery and regulating inflammation.

A single exosome can carry hundreds to thousands of unique combinations of material inside that reflect the identity and current state of its parent cell. As a result, its molecular payload varies and adapts to the cell’s environment, almost like a tailored response to the body’s needs.

When were exosomes first discovered?

While extracellular vesicles (EVs) were studied as early as the 1950s, the term exosomes was first introduced in the 1980s during studies on reticulocytes (maturing red blood cells), where they were initially observed as vesicles facilitating the removal of obsolete cellular components.

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that immunological research in the US and Europe highlighted their regenerative role as key intercellular communicators.

This sparked interest in Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs)-derived exosomes (from bone marrow) which were shown to aid tissue repair, modulate inflammation and influence fibroblast activity.

By the mid-2010s, thanks to their progressive regulatory landscape South Korea emerged as a global leader in exosome research and development (R&D), particularly in post-laser care, microneedling and many K-beauty products like ampoules and serums.

Today, exosomes are bridging regenerative medicine and advanced skincare delivery systems for their ability to deliver functional molecules with targeted precision.

Where are exosomes sourced from?

Exosomes can be sourced from a diverse range of cells such as human, animal, plant, algae and bacteria cells.

In skincare, due to ethical considerations and regulations they are not extracted from live organisms but instead harvested from cell cultures, such as stem cell–conditioned media, freeze-dried vesicle fragment or plant tissue.

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), often derived from bone marrow, umbilical cord, or adipose tissue produce exosomes rich in growth factors and cytokines that promote skin regeneration.

Regulations in the UK, EU and US currently classify exosomes from these sources as biologicals or drugs if they contain human-derived material, restricting their use in skincare.

Plant-derived (e.g. grape, ginger), milk-derived or probiotic vesicles such as those from Lactobacillus spp. often considered lysates, are being marketed as phyto-exosomes, biosomes or nanoparticles to mimic exosome functions.

These offer more accessible, regulatory accepted, stable, halal and vegan-friendly options for formulators.

Market potential

The global exosomes skincare market is projected to grow from $417.8 million in 2025 to $809.5 million by 2032, with a CAGR of 9.9% (Coherent Market Insights).

This rapid expansion is being driven by consumer demand for regenerative, non-invasive skincare and major R&D investment in biotechnology with Asia-Pacific and North America leading market share.

Skincare science (and limitations)

Exosomes are being increasingly used in skin formulations for accelerating regeneration, supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and promoting collagen synthesis.

In most regulated markets, only non-viable, well characterised and highly purified sources often derived from fermentation or plant origin are permitted.

For formulators and manufacturers, working with exosomes offers exciting potential but also complexity.

Exosomes are highly sensitive to temperature, pH and oxidation making them unstable in conventional emulsions or serums unless stabilised and without proper extraction and delivery methods their benefits are often overestimated.

Many products may not contain viable or functional vesicles by the time they reach the skin. This also presents challenges in ensuring exosome viability throughout manufacturing and shelf life.

The lack of globally accepted standards makes it difficult to confirm presence, purity or dosage, raising concern over efficacy claims they are often marketed for.

To address these limitations alongside regulatory and ethical concerns, formulators are exploring exosome-like alternatives like technologies, synthetic vesicles or engineered peptides- designed to mimic the delivery function of natural exosomes without relying on biologically derived materials.

While not identical in structure or origin, these exosome-like ingredients aim to achieve similar goals; delivering active ingredients deeper into the skin and modulating cellular behaviour.

Importantly, these alternatives offer greater consistency, improved safety profiles and clearer regulatory pathways.

According to recent market data, plant-derived exosome-like products currently make up 39% of the category, largely due to their regulatory accessibility and consumer preference for ethical sourcing.

Marketing transparency

One of the biggest challenges facing exosome skincare is the widespread marketing ambiguity surrounding the term itself ‘exosome’.

Many consumers and even some brands don’t understand what exosomes truly are or confuse them with other technologies.

The term is often used loosely, often without clarifying the source, type or function of the vesicles included in the product.

In some cases, formulations may not contain intact or viable exosomes at all, only lysates, conditioned media or plant-derived mimetics and yet still carry the same regenerative claims.

Without clear labelling or scientific substantiation, consumers are left to navigate vague promises that often suggest stem cell benefits without regulatory backing.

This blurring of definitions dilutes credibility, misinforms users and undermines the truly advanced science behind authentic exosomes.

Regulatory concerns

Currently the most pressing issues surrounding exosome use in skincare is regulatory oversight or lack thereof.

To date, no cosmetic regulatory authority has formally approved human-derived exosomes, especially those from embryonic or foetal stem cells which are classified as biological medicinal products (biologics) or cell-based therapies and not cosmetics (skincare).

Without rigorous purification and documentation, their use in cosmetics is restricted and/ or prohibited across regions such as the UK, EU, US, Canada, South Korea, Japan and Australia.

What makes it even harder is the lack of quality standards as there’s currently no global benchmark for verifying exosome concentration, purity or functionality in skincare.

As a result, many products may list exosomes on the label without containing functionally active material or clearly specifying their source, type or purpose. Standardisation, origin traceability and transparent labelling are essential to build consumer trust and scientific credibility.

This is why formulators are turning to safer, more transparent options like plant- or probiotic-derived alternatives, which are easier to regulate and formulate.

Final thoughts

Exosomes are a fascinating breakthrough at the intersection of biology, biotechnology and skincare.

While they’ve shown therapeutic potential, exosomes are still largely in the research phase and most supporting evidence demonstrating their skin-related benefits are limited (lab-based cell culture) or animal model studies.

Human clinical trials (in-vivo) remain scarce, mostly investigating wound or scar healing, highlighting an opportunity for innovators to lead with science.

While true exosomes are still in regulatory limbo, exosome-like systems offer a promising alternative, particularly those that are more stable, scalable and aligned with consumer values.

Did you know that there will be a special focus on Biotech Beauty at in-cosmetics Asia this year?

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

References

Mendt, M., Kamerkar, S., & Alt, E. (2019). MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative therapy and beyond. Frontiers in Cell and Developmental Biology

Phinney, D.G., & Pittenger, M.F. (2017). MSC-derived exosomes for cell-free therapy. Molecular Therapy

Alcayaga-Miranda, F., Cuenca, J., & Khoury, M. (2017). Harnessing the immunomodulatory properties of MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative medicine applications. Stem Cell Research & Therapy

Pan, B.T., Teng, K., Wu, C., Adam, M. and Johnstone, R.M., 1985. Electron microscopic evidence for externalization of the transferrin receptor in vesicular form in sheep reticulocytes. Journal of Cell Biology, 101(3), pp.942–948. doi:10.1083/jcb.101.3.942

Caplan AI. Mesenchymal stem cells. J Orthop Res. 1991;9:641–650. doi: 10.1002/jor.1100090504

Harding CV, Heuser JE, Stahl PD. Exosomes: looking back three decades and into the future. J Cell Biol. 2013 Feb 18;200(4):367-71. doi: 10.1083/jcb.201212113. Erratum in: J Cell Biol. 2013 Apr 29;201(3):485. PMID: 23420870; PMCID: PMC3575527

Charbord P. Bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells: historical overview and concepts. Hum Gene Ther. 2010 Sep;21(9):1045-56. doi: 10.1089/hum.2010.115. PMID: 20565251; PMCID: PMC4823383

Woith, E.; Fuhrmann, G.; Melzig, M.F. Extracellular Vesicles—Connecting Kingdoms. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019, 20, 5695. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20225695

Bin Zhang, Mei Wang, Aihua Gong, Xu Zhang, Xiaodan Wu, Yanhua Zhu, Hui Shi, Lijun Wu, Wei Zhu, Hui Qian, Wenrong Xu, HucMSC-Exosome Mediated-Wnt4 Signaling Is Required for Cutaneous Wound Healing, Stem Cells, Volume 33, Issue 7, July 2015, Pages 2158–2168, https://doi.org/10.1002/stem.1771

Kim YJ, Yoo SM, Park HH, Lim HJ, Kim YL, Lee S, Seo KW, Kang KS. Exosomes derived from human umbilical cord blood mesenchymal stem cells stimulates rejuvenation of human skin. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2017 Nov 18;493(2):1102-1108. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2017.09.056

(Sponsored Content)

Catalynt is proudly certified as a woman-owned supplier—But what does that mean for the industry?

Catalynt Solutions is more than just a certified woman-owned supplier; it is a driving force in shaping the chemical industry through leadership, innovation, and advocacy. Megan Gluth’s role in the Alliance for Chemical Distribution (ACD) is a testament to this commitment, as she actively helps businesses navigate the increasing complexity and challenges of the industry.

Catalynt’s leadership is exemplified by Megan’s historic position as the first woman on the ACD board, paving the way for greater diversity in industry governance. The company drives innovation by challenging the status quo and leveraging technology to enhance efficiency and transparency. Additionally, Meg is engaged in regulatory advocacy, lobbying for pro-business policies that foster growth and stability in the sector.

Leveraging its expertise in regulatory advocacy and active role in industry policy discussions, Catalynt has guided manufacturers through compliance hurdles by providing updated regulatory insights on restricted ingredients, recommending compliant alternatives, and facilitating supplier relationships to ensure long-term regulatory alignment.

As a result, manufacturers have successfully met compliance deadlines and avoided potential financial losses. Beyond regulatory guidance, Catalynt delivers tangible value to both customers and suppliers, offering high-quality ingredients, strategic market insights, and solutions that address evolving industry needs.

What sets Catalynt apart as a global supplier and manufacturer?

Catalynt operates at the intersection of distribution, sourcing, and manufacturing, combining global reach with localized expertise to navigate today’s increasingly complex supply chains. Here’s what distinguishes the company:

Multi-Region Sourcing Capabilities – With an extensive global supplier network, Catalynt ensures ingredient availability even when traditional supply routes face disruptions, mitigating risks for customers.

Regulatory Mastery – Whether navigating EU REACH, U.S. FDA regulations, or Asia-Pacific compliance standards, Catalynt provides fully vetted, compliant ingredients, ensuring seamless market entry.

Agility & Responsiveness – Catalynt quickly adapts to supply chain disruptions and regulatory changes, offering flexible, real-time solutions to meet customer demands.

By integrating these capabilities, Catalynt delivers a competitive edge to customers, ensuring reliability in an unpredictable marketplace. As an example, when manufacturing customers recently faced an ingredient shortage of a key ingredient used to stabilize their product, Catalynt provided alternative supply options that met both performance and regulatory requirements – as a result, the manufacturers avoided production delays, maintained consistent product availability, and strengthened their resistance to future disruptions.

How does Catalynt secure hard-to-source products and quality alternatives?

Catalynt’s strength lies in proactively identifying supply chain vulnerabilities and securing alternative solutions ahead of industry shortages.

One notable example is: Preservative Systems That Anticipate Regulatory Shifts.

1. Challenge: The EU’s scrutiny on phenoxyethanol meant many brands were caught off-guard, needing urgent preservative alternatives.
2. Solution: Catalynt partnered with suppliers offering multi-functional botanical extracts with antimicrobial properties, reducing the need for traditional preservatives.
3. Impact: Customers secured long-term stability in their formulations while aligning with consumer demand for “clean” beauty.

What are the emerging trends shaping the market in 2025 and beyond?

The personal care industry continues its evolution, driven by sustainability initiatives, regulatory tightening, and technological advancements. Based on Catalynt’s market intelligence, here are the most pressing trends:

(a) Regulations and technology
• The personal care industry must adapt to regulatory tightening, which continues to drive new technological innovations.
• Catalynt’s role: We are engaging directly with cosmetic chemists to support new product development by providing samples and documentation.

(b) Supply chain disruptions & regionalization
• Data Insight: According to the WTO, global chemical supply chains have experienced a 12% increase in lead times due to geopolitical instability and logistics bottlenecks.
• Industry Shift: Companies are shifting toward nearshoring and regional suppliers to reduce risks.
• Catalynt’s Role: We are proactively diversifying supply options to prevent disruptions before they happen.

(c) Sustainability & ethical sourcing
• Rising Demand for Carbon-Neutral Ingredients – Brands are moving toward biodegradable raw materials and requiring full carbon footprint transparency from suppliers.
• Ethical Palm Oil & Biotech Solutions – RSPO-certified ingredients are in higher demand, while biotech-derived actives (e.g., fermented ceramides, lab-grown collagen) are gaining traction.
• Catalynt’s Response: We are prioritizing partnerships with suppliers that provide verified ethical sourcing and carbon-neutral manufacturing.

Find out more about Catalynt here

About our Interviewee: Chris Karber, Vice President of Sales, Catalynt

As Vice President of Sales, Chris’s role is to lead and empower Catalynt’s national sales team by providing them with the tools, strategy, and support needed to drive growth. Chris focuses on optimizing sales processes, strengthening customer relationships, and ensuring that his team is equipped to deliver exceptional value to customers and suppliers.
More about Chris Karber.

(Sponsored article)

Lignin, a naturally abundant polyphenolic compound and key component of plant cell walls, is largely underutilized. Despite its proven powerful properties, it’s primarily relegated to low-value industrial applications or burned for energy, often as a byproduct of cellulose and paper pulp production

Ligopure Base, a natural SPF-Booster

Lignin is emerging as a safer, biodegradable SPF booster for sunscreens and personal care products. Its potential to reduce reliance on synthetic cosmetic ingredients is significant, yet raw lignin is unsuitable for cosmetic applications.

Lignopure recognized this potential and developed a patented particle technology to process lignin and unlocking its cosmetic functionality. This breakthrough resulted in Lignopure Base, the first non-nano lignin powder specifically designed for cosmetic formulations, boasting the highest lignin concentration on the market.

Sourced from clean, sustainable plants and processed with our patented technology, each LignoBase variant retains lignin’s unique polyphenolic structure, delivering key benefits: enhanced SPF, free radical protection, and potent antioxidant activity. Our bio-innovative line offers three distinct ingredients derived from birch trees, pine trees, and wheat straw, providing diverse options for formulators.

Lignopure Base’s mechanisms of SPF boosting effect

After demonstrating the SPF-boosting properties of lignin, many questions arise regarding the mechanisms behind its effectiveness. Based on Lignopure Base’s unique chemical and physical characteristics, we can identify four key mechanisms that may explain how it enhances SPF.

Photostabilization of BMDBM

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), a prevalent UVA filter, is prone to UV-induced instability, diminishing its protective efficacy and generating harmful byproducts. Specifically, its interaction with oxygen produces singlet oxygen, a reactive species that induces oxidative stress and cellular damage. This process further degrades BMDBM, reducing its UVA absorbance and increasing the risk of sun-related skin damage.

While quenchers can mitigate BMDBM’s photodegradation, they themselves can degrade, potentially releasing harmful byproducts. Lignopure Base offers a superior, natural solution by leveraging lignin’s complex phenolic polymer with diverse functional groups, including phenolic hydroxyl, carboxylic, carbonyl, and methoxyl. These groups effectively neutralize singlet oxygen, a primary driver of BMDBM degradation. Consequently, Lignopure Base acts as a natural stabilizer, significantly enhancing BMDBM’s photostability and boosting the overall protective efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Synergetic effect between lignin and UV filters 

J-aggregation, the stacking of aromatic rings in lignin and UV filters like OMC, leverages attractive forces between electron-rich and electron-deficient regions. This stacking forms larger structures that significantly alter UV light absorption.

This process lowers the energy required for the π-π* transition, crucial for UV absorption, and creates an extended conjugated system. Consequently, the UV absorption spectrum shifts to longer wavelengths—a spectral redshift. This broadened absorption spectrum allows the material to capture a wider range of UV radiation, enhancing sunscreen effectiveness.

Light scattering effect

The use of light-scattering particles to boost UV protection in sunscreens is a well-known approach, and Lignopure’s innovative micron sized lignin particles excel in this area. The non-nano lignin particles effectively scatter light, and when incorporated into sunscreens, its scattering effect increases the optical path length of UV radiation, ensuring that the light is more likely to interact with dissolved or dispersed UV filter molecules before reaching the skin, thereby enhancing the UV protection.

Film forming capacities

Sunscreen efficacy hinges on both the UV filter system’s absorption properties and its uniform distribution on the skin. Given the skin’s uneven surface, sunscreens that form a consistent film provide superior UV protection compared to those lacking this property. This uniformity directly impacts both in-vivo and in-vitro SPF values. Therefore, enhancing UV filter homogeneity on the skin is crucial for optimal performance.

Film-forming compounds are essential in sunscreen formulations to achieve this uniform distribution and boost SPF. During lignin extraction, residual cellulose often remains bound to the polyphenol structure, naturally imparting film-forming capabilities to the lignin extract. The amount of cellulose residue is directly influenced by the lignin extraction process.

Conclusion

Lignopure Base’s SPF-boosting mechanisms, supported by comprehensive in-vivo and in-vitro testing, establish its potential as a superior natural alternative for cosmetics. This upcycled, bio-based ingredient line enhances SPF levels while prioritizing human health and environmental safety.

From multifunctional makeup and skincare to tinted suncare and SPF-enhanced haircare, Lignopure Base is the ideal ingredient for consumers seeking effective UVA and UVB protection without compromising their commitment to sustainability.

(Sponsored Content)

At Gaia Tech, our mission is to transform agrifood byproducts into high-value ingredients. In collaboration with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors, we address the growing demand for sustainable and effective raw materials in the cosmetic industry.

From Research to Market: Gaia Tech’s Approach to Industry Challenges

Initially, we developed a methodology to transform olive oil production sidestreams into high quality ingredients:

• Phenoliva Active: Derived from olive pomace, this antioxidant extract is rich in hydroxytyrosol, a bioactive compound known for its anti-aging or soothing properties. Comprehensive testing has been conducted on its composition, toxicology, and stability, including final formulation examples. Clinical studies are currently ongoing and data is available upon request.
• Phenoliva CleanChar: An activated olive biochar initially developed as a detoxifying agent for face masks, the powder has since gained interest as a pigment. Compositional and toxicology data is available, as well as formulation examples like beauty mask and mascara.

One of the significant challenges in promoting upcycled ingredients is ensuring they match the performance of conventional materials. For Phenoliva Active, overcoming the hurdles of color and odor standards was crucial. We are tackling these challenges using advanced filtration and encapsulation technologies to optimize these organoleptic properties. In the process of refining and customizing ingredients, various industry partners have underscored our ability to meet high-performance benchmarks, and praised Gaia Tech’s antioxidant technology as “the best they have tested so far”.

Upcycling Innovation: A Proven Process Tailored to Cosmetics

Building on our proven process to develop upcycled ingredients – from sourcing raw materials and conducting compositional analysis, to pilot production trials and forecasting production capacity – we expand this approach to other valuables sources of natural ingredients like apple pomace or grape marc. We offer two types of collaborations to partners:

• Upcycled Ingredients: The olive-based ingredients are available in small quantities.
• Development Services: Ready to partner up to bring innovative ingredients to the market.

We already started looking into a number of local and international sidestreams for new ingredients. Let us know what function you are looking for to develop innovations.

Looking Ahead: A Suitable Partner For Upcycled Ingredients

Gaia Tech provides expertise in raw material sourcing, chemical extraction and analysis, prototype production and formulation, engineering design and upscale preparation. With fully equipped laboratories and state-of-the-art pilot production facilities in Bern and Monaco, we are uniquely positioned to collaborate with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors seeking to expand their upcycled ingredient and product portfolios.

Are you curious about the ingredients we are working on and their transformative effects on final products? Visit us at In-Cosmetics booth 12C07, explore our offerings at www.gaiatech.ch, or reach out directly at hello@gaiatech.ch.

About the Authors:

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla Phd

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla earned a PhD in Environmental and Bioanalytical Chemistry. As a Senior Scientist with 10+ years of experience, she is specializing in chemical analysis and extraction. She is also experienced in formulating personal care products.

Samuel Bühlmann

Samuel Bühlmann holds a Master’s degree in Business Information Systems and has a track record of working with startups across various sectors. In 2023, he joined Gaia Tech as a co-founder, where he currently leads the communication and business development initiatives.

We caught up with Enrique Jambrina, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer at In Silico Discovery to find out more about their approach, benefits for end users and future trends

In-Silico Discovery is one of these trailblazing start-ups that designs cosmetic actives with computational techniques – can you tell us more about the company’s DNA?

The people behind ISD are really the engine that made this company a reality.

José María García Antón, the founder, is a well-known entrepreneur known for efficiently translating scientific research into marketed products (i.e.: Lipotec, LipoTrue  The Deep Blue Sea Enterprise, PrimaDerm, etc).

He was the first one to think of  taking advantage of the knowledge developed by pharmaceutical companies when approaching a disease through a specific protein or mechanism of action, and the possibilities that applying those technologies could offer for the cosmetic and biotechnological fields.

Around this original concept he has been able to gather people with experience in the cosmetic field, in the creation of biotechnology-based start-ups, in pharma project design and execution, and, in computational drug discovery and design – the latter being possible through a solid technological partnership with Nostrum Biodiscovery.

As a brand-new company, the technological advances in the field of computer science offer us the possibility to efficiently identify new active molecules through virtual screening and de novo design without the need to run costly experiments.

In Silico Discovery (ISD) was then founded with the objective of developing a target-based computational approach for the efficient discovery of new potential actives with application in the cosmetic and biotechnological areas.

What makes In-Silico Discovery’s offering so unique?

We have built our own portfolio following a target-based approach. We have a strong interest in modulating the activity of the different cell types found in the epidermis (Merkel, Langerhans, melanocytes and keratinocytes) as well as in the communication between the nerve endings and these cells.

We have focused our first set of targets on the keratinocytes stem cell population present in the basal cell layer, which has been described as decreasing during ageing.

With this objective in mind, we have navigated through scientific literature to identify targets (proteins) which would have a role in controlling the functionality of this cell population, mainly through their proliferation and barrier functions.

Those selected targets are then modelled in-silico and analysed in the search for possible binding sites where our new molecules will be directed, potentially affecting its conformation and then its function.

The collaboration with Nostrum Biodiscovery gives us access to a series of proprietary algorithms such as PELEplat, pyDock and  ED/MD Suite Simulation as well as their knowledge around ligand-protein interactions.

There are a few companies that offer computational services, but we are unique in offering our own selection of actives selected with proprietary in-silico tools, algorithms and molecule virtual libraries.

What are the key benefits for end users?

This in-silico approach focused on a specific target protein offers a highly efficient method in the early stages of active ingredients identification, speeding up discovery and avoiding the use of precious experimental resources, which can be focused on key experiments.

This methodology also provides a strong scientific hypothesis about the mechanism of action for these new cosmetic actives.

From our own experience, the projects can take 3 to 6 months depending on the target and the strategy followed which could be based in the identification of small peptides as binders of the protein of interest or the design of a novel small protein that will mimic the function of the original target, and which is easier to obtain than the original one.

Before starting any of our projects we perform a patent search to guarantee a significant level of freedom to operate. Lastly, our clients will find a list of novel molecules selected by the most advanced in-silico algorithms predicting their binding properties, ready to be synthesized, tested, and incorporated in their formulations.

Our findings and the strategy followed to identify those actives are protected by Trade Secret offering the end-users the possibility to fulfil a patent.

What does the future look like for In-Silico Discovery? What future trends can you predict in the world of cosmetic actives design?  

Over the past few years, there has been an exponential increase in the knowledge of the mechanisms and genes involved in the ageing process and their implication in the origin and progression of different diseases such as oncology, inflammation, and neurodegeneration.

This interest has been echoed in the creation of new scientific journals (i.e.: Nature Aging), and the creation of companies like Altos Labs, focused on cellular rejuvenation programming.

Keeping a broad point of view when designing future cosmetic formulations will then be critical in order to apply those findings from other scientific areas into the cosmetic sector.

Topics such as senescence, autophagy, or mitochondria health are already of interest in the maintenance of skin homeostasis and such processes could be influenced by specific proteins whose functions we will be able to modulate.

On the other hand, the continuous and fascinating developments in the AI and machine learning fields, such as the design of de novo proteins, or the combination of different activities in just one molecule, will offer new and exciting ways to identify new actives in a very effective manner.

It will also continue to offer a new perspective on the modulation of those signalling pathways essential for skin health.

Find out more about In-Silico Discovery

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BROWSE SHOWSThe post Designing cosmetic actives – the in-silico approach first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/designing-cosmetic-actives-the-in-silico-approach/feed/ 0 19278 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/europe/it-is-time-to-redefine-anti-aging/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/europe/it-is-time-to-redefine-anti-aging/#respond Fri, 10 Mar 2023 17:24:54 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=19206 Sponsored – by Active Concepts Tap into an innovative approach to neurocosmetics and upcycling. Say goodbye to outdated notions and make way for a new era where wrinkles are no longer ‘imperfections’ but rather stories of our journey! The ability of the senses to help shoppers create long-lasting emotional and memory-based experiences is what gives […]