Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors?

This article will look at some of the latest innovations in peptide technology and formulation to yield even better results for today’s discerning consumer. Not sure of the difference between peptides, proteins and collagen, or how they should be used in cosmetic formulas? Watch this video for some great background information and then learn more about the peptide innovations we’re seeing in the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #1: In silico and AI development

Research and development of cosmetic ingredients has utilized Artificial Intelligence (AI) and ‘in silico’ methods (meaning computer simulations or models) to generate peptide solutions like never before. Using AI and computer models, raw material suppliers like Lipotrue are creating optimized peptides, and combinations of peptides, to target specific enzymes and biomarkers to obtain their results.

Their latest launch, SP(AI)3 is turning heads by using such unique technology to create a hexapeptide that targets the 3 markers involved in sebum synthesis, pore size and inflammation for outstanding anti-acne results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #2: Cyclic peptides

Peptides are the combination of amino acids into – usually – chains. While still extremely small, these chains are typically linear and contain a specific subset of amino acids to yield a desired action. Cyclic peptides are a new technology used by cosmetic suppliers that sets these amino acids into a continuous ring, stabilised by hydrogen bonds, to give advanced activity, stability and efficacy.

An example of cyclic peptide formation aimed at counteracting the impact of wrinkle formation at various times in the day has been launched, again, by Lipotrue. Their material Poptide shows they are one of the key leaders in peptide innovations and technology for the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #3: Crystallisation

Peptides often come highly diluted in solutions to make them water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic formulas in the cool down stage of processing. Crystallisation, however, provides a super-concentrated powder form of the peptide that can easily be solubilized in a water loving solvent (like glycerin) and then added to formulas. Crystallisation involves taking a highly saturated solution where individual peptides come together and form a crystal-like concentrate.

Using patented crystallization techniques, Active Peptide Company have created their eye-catching blue GHK-Cu Copper Peptide powder, for advanced anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #4: Hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides

Peptides used in cosmetic formulas are either:

• tripeptides or hexapeptides that have been synthetically produced;
• extracts rich in certain peptides, where the efficacy of the extract can be directly traced back to the presence of the proteins/peptides present in the plant material; or
• hydrolysed proteins.

Of these, the use of hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides has been largely under-rated – until now. Hydrolysed proteins and hydrolysed silk are essentially the original protein broken down into peptide chains to make them small enough to be biomimetic with the skin and hair, and easy to incorporate into a cosmetic formula.

The original protein is far too large and insoluble to be of any use; but when it is in the hydrolysed form it can be delivered easily through personal care. In this form it provides the peptide building blocks that repair hair and skin and provide a protective, breathable film against further damage. The results are noticeable straight away, yet there is no residue.

Hydrolysed proteins are also highly substantive, meaning there are certain grades that are particularly resistant to wash off and have proven efficacy in rinse off cosmetic formulas. Don’t underestimate the power of these peptide sources – while not deep acting like tripeptides and hexapeptides, their activity at the surface of the skin or hair is incredibly important for barrier repair, maintenance and instantaneous results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #5: Multi-peptide combinations

Peptides are only needed in very small amount in cosmetic formulas, which is a good thing, because they are usually quite expensive. You only need a relatively small input of these materials to get great results, but they can add to the cost of a cosmetic formula quite significantly.

It is interesting to see that some of the more luxury brands, where performance is absolutely essential, are using combinations of peptides. They may describe their product as containing a peptide ‘cocktail’, or as a peptide ‘blend’, or even multi-peptide serum like in this example.

Consumers will readily pay more for a product with clinically proven efficacy, and these blended peptide formulas can often yield outstanding multi-faceted results from the tiny but effective peptide molecules they contain.

Keep up with peptide innovations in your cosmetic formulas…

While I’ve summarised the latest trends for you, it is up to you to speak directly with your suppliers and check out the Innovation Zone at your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition. You’ll always see the best and latest innovations there, and dozens of suppliers with peptide technology, and perhaps the next best thing, at these amazing events.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Several ingredient suppliers recently presented their latest innovations. Bitop introduced their active skincare ingredients from TikTok sensation Ectoin® natural to Glycoin® natural, Cosphatec discussed their Cosphaderm® Absolute ingredient whilst CLR showed how to refine skin texture and complexion with soft focus.

PROGRAMME:

Stop ‘skin inflammaging’ with a 100% natural multifunctional bioactive (Bitop)

Inflammaging has recently emerged as a pathway that correlates aging and age-related diseases with inflammation. In 2015, the World Health Organization World Report on Ageing and Health highlighted an urgent requirement for healthy ageing strategies.

Inflammaging refers to a progressive increase in chronic low-level inflammation that occurs naturally in the body as we get older. The main feature of the ageing process is a chronic progressive increase in the proinflammatory status, that was originally termed as “inflamm-aging”. The term “inflamm-aging” was first named by Franceschi et al. in 2000, and it is a new addition to the types of ageing studies. Skin-specific symptoms of chronic inflammation include wrinkles and crow’s feet, uneven tone and texture, and a slowdown of cells’ self-healing functions.

This seminar throws light upon the scientific process associated with inflammaging, the main causes of inflammaging and provides a ‘one-stop solution to inflammaging’ and the associated concerns.

WATCH ON-DEMAND

Antimicrobial product stabilisation by natural humectants (Cosphatec)

Cosphaderm® Absolute is a blend of three established humectant actives in optimally aligned concentrations.

Using Cosphaderm® Absolute helps to hydrate the skin and improve the skin’s barrier function while reducing the water activity of a formulation.

The lower the water activity of a formulation, the less antimicrobials need to be used for preservation.

WATCH ON-DEMAND

The never-ending quest for refined skin structure and even skin complexion (CLR)

One of our biggest challenges is to develop products which lead to refined skin structure and even coloration. Zooming out, we come to the recognition of the importance conspicuous pores as a main consumer concern. Astringents, however, have now shown to not be good enough.

Consumers need a real solution to their problem: products which act on all relevant biological pathways in the skin which lead to conspicuous and unsightly pores. Pore size is one aspect to address, but it essential to also take colour contrast between the pore and its surrounding, into consideration. Only with a holistic yet clearly goal-oriented approach, conspicuous pores can be reduced.

CLR Berlin developed CutiFine CLR, which was proven in both in vitro and placebo-controlled in vivo studies to perceivably reduce conspicuous pores. This presentation will address these studies, but also the importance of conspicuous pores for the consumer and the cosmetic industry.

• Skincare’s biggest challenge: Refined skin and even complexion
• One of the main consumer concerns: Conspicuous and unsightly pores
• Demand for holistic, but goal-oriented approaches for perceivable effects
• The key: Addressing pore size and colour contrast of pores

WATCH ON-DEMAND

11 April 2023: in-cosmetics Global came to a successful close in Barcelona, Spain on March 30, 2023. 10,799 unique attendees from all five continents, a 33% increase on last year, descended on the Fira Barcelona Gran Via for three days of immersive networking, sourcing and learning opportunities.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “We are delighted that in-cosmetics Global returned to such widespread, international support, once again demonstrating why it is the world’s leading personal care ingredients show. Innovation could be found in abundance across the halls of the Fira Barcelona Gran Via, while the high-level, international audience in attendance demonstrated not only the importance of networking and sourcing at the show, but the industry’s willingness to invest in the future of the cosmetics and personal care industry.”

An abundance of innovation

Returning after a seven-year hiatus from the Catalonia capital, in-cosmetics Global welcomed more than 900 leading personal care ingredient suppliers, from over 50 countries, looking to connect with manufacturers and brands on the lookout for the next big ingredient trend.

Further highlighting the international reach of the show, 72% of attendees joined the event from abroad – up from 57% in 2022 – from over 118 countries. 12% of the international delegation travelled from Asia Pacific – compared to 6% in 2022 – with visitors hailing from South Korea, China, India and Japan.

For many attendees, this represented the first international personal care event they’ve attended following three years of lockdowns and subsequent travel restrictions.

And, with an abundance of innovation on the show floor, attendees were keen to make the most of every minute at the show, with visitors returning for day two and three, driving repeat attendee numbers up to 20,902 – an almost 50% increase on 2022.

Among the innovations on display by this year’s exhibitors, the event’s premium sponsor, KSM-66 Ashwagandha, showcased its branded, full-spectrum ashwagandha extract. Produced using a unique proprietary extraction process based on ‘green chemistry’ principles, attendees were able to discover how the company holistically extracts all of the root essence while preserving its natural healing potency. The calming adaptogen is renowned for its calming, de-stressing properties, making it a popular ingredient for skincare formulations.

Across the show floor, natural cosmetic active ingredient manufacturer, NORMACTIVE launched its TRI-MEA natural, upcycled and biodegradable active ingredient that repairs and protects the hair shaft, completing the hair care puzzle by upgrading hair quality to a healthy state.

While Sensient Beauty, a developer of high-purity colours and surface treatments, revealed its Aloe Surface Treatment. Extracted and upcycled from discarded aloe leaves and infused with coconut oil, the treatment is 100% natural, hydrophobic, easy to disperse, has a high-pigment load and excellent spreadability.

Meanwhile, one year after announcing its first product launch at in-cosmetics Global in Paris, Global Bioenergies returned with its second launch: Isonaturane® 16 – a sixteen-carbon molecule that is widely used in cosmetics.

Ichimaru Pharcos launched its natural cosmetic ingredient, HyaluGuard to inhibit the degradation of hyaluronic acid (HA) in fibroblasts to reduce skin sagging and wrinkles, while Stephenson, continued the success of its solid format shampoo and body bars, with the launch of its Syndopal Solid Hair Conditioner (SHC) 600-MB, the only extruded solid conditioning base available on the personal care market.

Bringing its latest product launches to life in the form of an immersive fashion show, Ashland took attendees on a journey from crocus to coconuts, and rosewood to raspberries. The novel approach transformed the stand into a fashion runway, where models showcased visual representations of the company’s most vital, naturally derived, nature-friendly materials. This included its newest, dynamic biofunctional, Liftyl, which uses upcycled rosewood chips; Saffragyl, a biofunctional upcycled from crocus flowers; Phyteq, which is based on a raspberry ketone and a preservative potentiator; and Softhance conditioner, which harnesses the power of soy and glycerine to provide moisture retention.

Speaking about the event, Sandra Meister, Business & Relationship Manager, Mibelle Biochemistry, said: “in-cosmetics Global is the single most important show of the year due to the great opportunities it offers. We have been able to meet with all our distributors from over 50 countries, as well as connect with new customers. The quality of these contacts has been great, and it has been wonderful to see the show back in full swing.”

An international crowd-pleaser

Among the attractions at this year’s show, the event’s first-ever Indonesian Natural Ingredients Pavilion brought together seven unique suppliers of essential oils, aromas and plant extracts, including PT Aroma Atsiri Indonesia, Javagri, MB Plus Agro, PT Mignon Sista International, PT Merpati Mahardika, Pemalang Agro Wangi, and Rumah Atsiri Indonesia. The pavilion, one of nine at this year’s event, enabled attendees to easily connect with niche suppliers from specific regions, as well as bringing to life local Indonesian culture with a live Gamelan musical performance on day one of the show.

Demonstrating insights into the local Spanish market, Beauty Cluster – the largest Spanish cosmetics, perfumery, and personal care cluster in the country – led the event’s Spanish pavilion, bringing together seven Spanish suppliers, including Lluch Essence, IBSINA, EG Active Cosmetics, Global Fragrances Lab, Amita HC, Neftis Laboratorios, and Aitex.

Speaking about the relationship with Beauty Cluster, Roziani Zulkifli added: “The Spanish market will always be important to the global personal care and cosmetics community. Our relationship with Beauty Cluster brings together the country’s leading suppliers. It enables visitors interested in the local market to learn and seek business opportunities with Spanish suppliers.”

Industry leaders share thought-provoking insights

In addition to a packed show floor, the event’s seven dedicated conference theatres and labs offered attendees an enviable opportunity to get hands-on with the latest formulation techniques, gain exclusive access to the latest market intelligence, and find inspiration for new product innovations.

Opening the Marketing Trends Theatre, Conor Spicer, Senior Research Analyst – Beauty & Health, Euromonitor explored the transformation of haircare in the post-pandemic world. He detailed three notable trends and the drivers behind them, including ‘Less is More’ – a trend leading the way as a result of consumers being more selective with their haircare routines, driven by the impact of COVID-19 and subsequent inflationary pressures. They are becoming more selective, opting for fewer but higher quality items with attributes that focus on efficacy and multifunctionality.

The pandemic was also noted for its influence on the ‘Skinification of Hair,’ where an increased focus on health and safety has prompted the emergence of ‘skintellectuals’ who strive to better understand their skin and beauty needs. As a result, “skinification” within hair has grown in prominence, with more brands adopting skincare ingredients and formulations, with the scalp acting as an extension of the skin.

The final trend reflects the maturity of the hair care market and the importance of ‘Purpose over Profit,’ where value growth is often stimulated by premiumisation. Here, as consumer desire evolves, and the purchasing power of Gen Z increases, areas such as ingredient transparency and inclusivity are recognised as key opportunities for growth among brands.

The Marketing Trends Theatre also welcomed Emma Fishwick, Senior Account Manager, NPD Group who took attendees through the latest fragrance innovations. Highlighting the opportunities within the sector, she revealed that the fragrance market was in double-digit growth across Europe, with Spain peaking at 22%. Meanwhile, Italy (20%), Germany (17%), France (12%) and the UK (13%) all noted significant market increases. She noted that within the category, interest in refillable options grew by 23%, while gift sets saw a decline of 2%.

Technology was also a pertinent trend of interest, as covered by Adrià Martínez Noveleta, Strategic Project Manager, Beauty Cluster. He warned attendees that a ‘deep tech tsunami’ would follow, detailing how technology trends including Artificial Intelligence (AI), blockchain, and industry 5.0 (spanning automation, big data and cyber security) would enhance and personalise the customer experience, improve business opportunities and efficiency, and aid expansion into new markets. Highlighting the challenges from data privacy, legal and regulatory risks and the growing dependence on data, Adrià concluded that for success, the collaboration between brands and tech experts will be critical.

The topic of technology was also covered during this year’s popular R&D Tours, which saw hundreds of attendees join expert consultant, Rouah Al-Wakeel, as she guided participants to selected stands linked to three highly topical subjects: Microbiome, sponsored by Symrise; Skinification, sponsored by CODIF; and Biotech, sponsored by Michelle Biochemistry.

Putting ingredients under the microscope

Elsewhere on the show floor, a series of Technical Seminars offered inspiration for new product formulations, delivered by professionals from raw material suppliers, including Stephenson, Active Concepts, Solvay, Sharon Personal Care, LipoTrue, Univar Solutions, ROELMI HPC, and Innospec.

Dr Emmanuel Coste, Scientific Marketing Manager, EXSYMOL presented a technical seminar on the importance of body confidence, highlighting how the company’s new range of cosmetic active ingredients offer solutions for silhouette shaping, body firming and/or cellulite reduction while improving skin texture. Meanwhile, Rene Schmitz, Technical Sales & Marketing Manager, bitop shared insights on the company’s multifunctional bioactives: Ectoin® natural and Glycoin® natural, and why they are well placed to help brands formulate highly effective, “clean beauty” formulations, which meet the latest market and consumer trends.

Sustainability takes the lead

The newly expanded Sustainability Zone, sponsored by AAK and Farmforce, showcased the latest developments and achievements in sustainable beauty. Among the speakers headlining the educational programme within the Zone, Sami Selkälä, Founder and CEO, Innomost demonstrated how it is using upcycled birch for cosmetics, describing trees as the ‘ultimate choice for raw materials.’ She reflected on the nutrient-rich birch and its wide-ranging benefits, from improving preservation to offering antimicrobial, wound healing, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic qualities.

Addressing how brands can connect with the eco-conscious shopper and achieve sustainability without greenwashing, Phil Verey, Managing Director, Provenance spoke about the importance of future-proofing sustainability marketing and how to avoid greenwashing with simple, jargon-free information at the point of sale. He highlighted how, with nearly 80% of beauty shoppers expressing doubts on whether to trust the industry’s sustainability claims, transparency is key in communicating a brand’s positive impact.

Elsewhere, Eric Leroy, Global Marketing Director, Beauty Care and Caroline Mabille, Global Marketing Manager Beauty Cleansing Solutions, Solvay demonstrated the sustainable attributes of fermentation techniques, while Jordi Ayats, Marketing Manager, ALGAKTIV detailed how the company’s state-of-the-art biotechnology is harnessing the power of microalgae to create vegan active ingredients for skincare.

Sophie Moisden, Global Marketing Director, Cargill NV, said: “The past three days have been a real success as we have launched new products and upgraded our sustainability value proposition. Our highlight of the show was our talk at the Sustainability Zone theatre where it was fantastic to see over 70 people come and join the discussion on putting sustainability into action. It isn’t easy to be sustainable, however, seeing brands and companies eager to learn and play their part is inspiring.”

Also making its debut at the show was in-cosmetics Discover, the brand new in-cosmetics digital initiative powered by Covalo. This state-of-the-art ingredients search engine allows users to browse and match a voluminous number of ingredients by certification, performance claims, chemical groups and applications. The Discover team of consultants were also on hand to share market insights into what formulators are searching for on the platform. A case in point is actives currently generating 3 times more searches than any other function, which proves how brands and formulators are responding to a growing audience of end users keen on efficacious and science-backed ingredients.

Finally, the popular Formulation Lab® returned, sponsored by Brenntag, to offer formulators and R&D specialists a carefully curated, practical programme that explored the very latest formulation techniques. From lipsticks and repairing hairsprays, to mineral sunscreens and scalp and hair masks, delegates were invited to formulate live on the show floor, with guidance from ingredient suppliers including Brenntag, Innospec, IMCD France, Ashland, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH and Evonik.

While formulators and R&D specialists were hands-on in the Formulation Lab®, the show’s immersive product areas enabled visitors to get up close and personal with the latest ingredients.

From the newest ingredients to hit the market in the Innovation Zone, invigorating sensations in the Sensory Bar, and the most innovative pigments and hues at the Make-Up Bar, visitors were inundated with opportunities to test, try, and discover ingredients to inspire the next product formulation.

Across the show’s interactive product displays, attendees actively collected product information through the digital Colleqt QR service – which enabled visitors to collect product information using their default camera app – generating more than 50,000 leads for participating exhibitors.

These popular show features also formed the entries in this year’s in-cosmetics Global Awards. In what was a record-breaking year, the awards attracted more than 250 entries, with exhibitors and visitors coming together to celebrate the industry’s most forward-thinking suppliers.

Closing the first day of the show, the winners of the Innovation Zone: Active and Functional Ingredient Awards, Green Ingredient Award, Rising Star Award and Sensory and Make-Up Bar Awards were all announced at a highly anticipated in-person ceremony. The full list of this year’s winners is available here.

Following two award wins – Silver in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient – Functional Category for its Aristoflex Eco T, and Gold in the Green Ingredient category for its Rootness Awake, Thomas Lukowicz – Technical Key Account Manager, Clariant said: “We’re very proud to win these awards because it fulfils our purpose as a brand. We started ten years ago and it’s very challenging as a company to bring something new to the market which combines biodegradability and high performance, so we’re extremely happy to be recognised and rewarded for our efforts.”

in-cosmetics Global returns to Paris, France from 16-18 April 2024.  Register your interest to attend now.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS