A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away… The Star Wars series tells the story of the Skywalker family, who are able to perceive and use “The Force”, which allows them to develop abilities such as telekinesis, clairvoyance and mind control, among others.

R2-D2 is one of the most famous robots in the world and one of the most peculiar characters in the series. We have seen it in 10 of the 11 Star Wars movies. R2-D2 stands for Second Generation Robotic Droid Series-2, according to a Star Wars encyclopaedia published after the film’s premiere. This robot’s function is technical, as it can repair any part of the ship, assist as a navigator and also provide valuable information on many probability data in the missions.

In 2024, we are seeing robots begin to take centre stage in many types of industries. I recently read an article published by the computerhoy.com portal which inspired me to write this column.

It was recently announced that humanoid robots have just signed a contract to work in BMW factories. This has been the first contract with humanoid robots in history. The article mentions that “the general purpose robot Figure 01 is 170 cm tall, has a payload capacity of about 20 kilos, weighs 60 kilos and has a range of up to 5 hours. It walks at a speed of 1.2 m/s. Its distinctive feature is that it does not work by programmed commands. It has a “ChatGPT” in its head, and thanks to artificial intelligence it is able to learn tasks, simply by watching explanatory videos”. The article also mentions that the robot can learn other activities on its own.

Robotics is also starting to set trends in cosmetics.

Last year, the magazine Cosmetics and Toiletries published an article on the subject, mentioning that AI and robots are helping to develop patents and beauty products. Some of the activities they can be programmed to do include preparing samples for hair fiber product efficacy analysis, as well as robots that wash, condition and dry hair to test formulations.

One application of AI is related to the optimisation of experimental designs for the development of make-up shades. The publication also mentions something very interesting: “robots do not replace jobs, but their function is to condense massive amounts of data to create consistency in samples and testing”.

Cobots = collaborative robots. Cobots are on the rise in medicine and cosmetics. The universal-robots.com portal indicates that: “As the life cycles of medical and cosmetic products shorten, collaborative automation brings agility to manufacturing. Robotic arms can be used to maximize production and ensure consistent quality, and can then be quickly redeployed for new product lines.

Cobots are used throughout the industry to manipulate machines and conveyor belts, assemble devices and products with precision, and package items in blisters, cartons or pallets. Cobots help you reduce the risk of human contamination in delicate processes and clean environments as they can be used for the handling and assembly of sterile products and medical devices or implants. Cobots can also free workers from material handling tasks in operations that can be risky because they generate a lot of dust, noise and high vibration, allowing them to move on to higher value tasks”.

The new R2-D2s at the service of cosmetics in 2024 are integrated with artificial intelligence to optimize beauty services. In some cities, we see, for example, robotic arms specialized in placing eyelashes and applying nail polish, achieving innovative designs in the nail-art trend. In this regard, the luxurylashacademy.com portal indicates that: “while artificial intelligence robots are advancing in the beauty industry, fears of being replaced by machines are alleviated by understanding that these technologies are designed to complement, not replace, the skills and artistry of lash artists. The beauty industry thrives on human creativity, and the personal touch that lash artists bring to their work is something that machines cannot replicate.”

In Star Wars, we saw that the Trade Federation was a transport and interstellar trade conglomerate during the last years of the Galactic Republic, so powerful that it had its own representatives in the Galactic Senate.

In 2024, we are seeing the potential contributions of the International Federation of Robotics (IFR) ifr.org/association to cosmetics. The website states that: “the International Federation of Robotics connects the world of robotics around the globe”, and its objectives include: “to promote the positive benefits of robots for productivity, competitiveness, economic growth and quality of work and life” and “to promote research, development, use and international co-operation in the entire field of robotics”, among others.

Surely, we will soon start to see partnerships between the industry, the cosmetics academy and this kind of organization to generate innovations never seen before in the pursuit of beauty.

In February 2024, we saw a surprising news story: we met a bipedal robot with muscle tissue that can walk, stop and turn. A team of Japanese researchers created a biohybrid robot, made mainly of silicone rubber and strips of skeletal muscle tissue cultured in the laboratory, that mimics human gait and works in water.

Biohybrid robots will be protagonists in the near future in cosmetics by participating as “volunteers” in cosmetic efficacy tests. Thanks to their biohybrid composition, cosmetic testing robots will have a dermal and muscular composition similar to humans, so that companies will be able to test multiple products on the same individual, carrying out efficacy studies of active ingredients for skincare and pre-selection of formulas before starting final tests in humans.

Biomimetic robots are also an interesting concept because they imitate the shape and movement of living beings. These robots could be more efficient and adaptable to complex environments. Robots will be used to perform irritation, allergy and efficacy tests of cosmetic products quickly and efficiently. This will reduce the need for animal testing and contribute to a more ethical cosmetics industry.

Skin diagnosis is another interesting chapter in this trend. This year we will see how robots with AI will be able to diagnose skin problems and recommend personalized products for their treatment.

• Application of cosmetics: Robots will be able to apply cosmetics precisely and uniformly, even in hard-to-reach areas.
• Shopping experience: Robots will be used in cosmetics stores to help customers find the right products and offer personalized advice.
• Mega-personalization: Robots will be able to analyze the customer’s skin type, tone, specific needs and preferences through sensors, scanners and AI. With this information, they will be able to create personalized cosmetic products with exact ingredients and quantities for each person. This will allow for greater product effectiveness and a better customer experience.
• Augmented reality boom: Robots will be able to show customers how they would look with different cosmetic products from various categories before purchasing them. This will help them make more informed and confident purchasing decisions.

Robots could be used to develop new cosmetic ingredients with specific properties. In the area of ​​quality, robots can be used to perform more precise and efficient quality control of cosmetic products. On the other hand, robots could be used to create more personalized and effective marketing and advertising campaigns.

This is the way… robotics have the potential to revolutionize the cosmetics industry in 2024. Princess Leia would surely be surprised to see how robots can offer customers accurate diagnoses, personalized products, new forms of application, shopping experiences more personalized and more sustainable production. Robotic cosmetics is one of the great drivers of innovation in our industry this year.

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As we approach 2024, it is interesting to review what trends will impact the cosmetics industry. The global cosmetics market was worth close to U$343 billion in 2023 and has a projected CAGR of 5.2% for the period 2024-2032.

Overall, the coming year will be marked by an unprecedented rise of smart machines, such that Artificial Intelligence (AI) will become part of everyday life and virtually no industry will be alien to it. Climate change will continue to affect society and science will continue to put enormous efforts into studying it and how to control its consequences.

On the other hand, remote and hybrid work remains at high levels compared to the pre-pandemic, which means that many people feel increasingly lonely, which is why the World Health Organization announced an initiative to address what it calls the new global epidemic: loneliness. The WHO stated that this problem did not begin with the covid-19 pandemic, but that it did worsen to the extent that one in four adults experience social isolation. The WHO has also indicated that the greatest global health risk by 2030 will be depression, not obesity. For this reason, wellness concepts will be at the forefront of cosmetics by 2024. Here are some of the trends that I believe will be the key players for the coming year.

• Chatbots & Chatbeauty: Artificial Intelligence (AI) is advancing by leaps and bounds. This is why in 2024 we will see an unprecedented boom in the development of chatbots for all types of industries, which will allow instant and personalised attention. In our industry, we will see brands launch chatbots with catchy names that will be able to handle product, ingredient and technical queries from formulators. Very soon it will be a reality to interact with chatbots that will aid the cosmetic formulation process. Virtual avatars created to assist in the purchasing and technical support process will also be on the rise in 2024.

• Biocoating: The food industry is making great strides in the development of coatings made from environmentally friendly materials to wrap and protect products. The cosmetics industry is beginning to take inspiration from materials used in food protection to develop new packaging materials. Waste from the sugar cane industry and products obtained from micro-organisms and plant species are emerging as new sources of innovation.

• Hygiene boom: The global hygiene market was worth U$515 billion in 2022 and is projected to be worth U$727 billion by 2032 at an estimated CAGR of 3.9% during this period. In 2024 we will see a boom in hygiene products aligned with wellness benefits. Aromatherapy will therefore be a key player in the development of new concepts in this category. We will also see market opportunities for luxury brands in hygiene and new proposals in the great universe of inclusion and diversity. Mood boosting will be an important claim in this category.

• Retrobiology: This is one of the most fascinating trends for 2024. Permafrost is a permanently frozen layer of soil in very cold or glaciated regions, formed by a combination of soil, rock, sand and other minerals that remain bound by ice. In the uppermost layers, it contains large amounts of organic carbon and remains of animals and plants that have not fully decomposed due to low temperatures. Due to global warming, this layer is melting, exposing well-preserved, extinct animal and plant remains from thousands of years ago, as well as new species that were unknown to science. In October 2023 we witnessed an unprecedented scientific breakthrough: a group of scientists managed to awaken an animal that had been hibernating for 45,000 years. Cryptobiosis is a process that puts the metabolism of living extremophile organisms into suspension, so that they can remain dormant for hundreds of years. Therefore, we will see the development of cosmetic technology coming from new biological species, such as micro-organisms, bacteria, algae and ferments. The concept of inspiration from extinct species is already starting to become a reality in cosmetic products. In October 2023 we saw a disruptive launch from a beauty and biotech company that introduced a new fragrance brand consisting of six perfumes, each derived from the sequenced DNA of extinct flowers. The concept is to revive scents lost in time. So, in 2024 we will see innovations and claims related to cryptobiosis-like, cryptobiosis inspired and extinct-inspired.

• Robots in retail: The Analytics Insight portal made an interesting publication on this topic in November 2023. The aim is to improve the customer experience. The rise of robots in retail has several objectives, such as creating better automated payment systems, optimizing inventory management, providing customer assistance by helping to locate products and guidance, assisting in cleaning and maintenance of shops and retail spaces, providing personalized recommendations, optimizing virtual testing, among others.

• Food inspiration: Lab-synthesized foods are a reality and are just around the corner in 2024. Advances in this field and the application of 3D printing in food will enable new applications in the cosmetics industry, for example biosynthesized and vegan animal proteins, dairy and egg whites of microbial origin synthesized from proteins produced by strains of bacteria, yeast and other recombinant or genetically modified micro-organisms, in whose genetic material the genes responsible for the production of certain animal proteins and other biomolecules present in foods, such as casein and beta-lactoglobulin (whey protein), egg white ovalbumin or muscle myoglobin, have been inserted. One company recently announced that it uses genetically programmed strains of the Trichoderma reesei fungus to produce whey proteins to make its vegan dairy products and ice cream. We will also see a boom in fancy and healthy sweets and desserts.

• Hyper-shine: After a year of many economic, social, health and peace difficulties, consumers have a deep desire for peace of mind. Therefore, claims related to radiance, luminosity, gloss, shine, brightness and glitter will be on the rise in 2024. Shiny is the new black.

• Diversity & Inclusion: The cosmetics industry has a great challenge to be more inclusive and therefore, new market segments, in some cases niches, that were previously not served by the cosmetics industry will be protagonists. Beauty is a universal right and inclusion is a vast universe where cosmetics has many opportunities for innovation.

• Wellness-driven beauty: Predictions indicate that consumers are beginning to prioritize holistic lifestyles, which is why wellness is emerging as one of the most important sources of innovation for 2024, as people are better understanding that the balance of mind-brain connections is reflected in better skin condition and appearance. Self-care is the new player in cosmetics and is emerging as a new global macro-trend.

• Synthetic biology boom: It is defined as the synthesis of biomolecules or engineering of biological systems with new functions that are not found in nature. It is a discipline that, unlike biology, is not based on the study of living beings, but instead tries to redesign biological systems that already exist in nature. Synthetic biology creates new programmable organisms, that is, it creates on-demand microorganisms with specific functions. In 2024 we will see advances in biological circuits to control and regulate cellular behavior. This involves the creation of complex systems that imitate the logic and functionality of electronic circuits in living cells, which will allow the synthesis and discovery of new molecules and systems with very high anti-aging efficacy profiles.

• Skin bioremediation: Research is currently exploring the ability of synthetic biology to develop products that aid in skin repair and regeneration, including the treatment of scars, wrinkles or even specific dermatological problems.

The trends for 2024 are very exciting and the cosmetics industry has always shown resilience, creativity and a lot of innovation, especially in difficult times. Understanding trends and consumer needs are key to innovation.

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During in-cosmetics Asia 2022, essential oils were the third most searched-for product category, with fragrance ingredients also figuring as a highly popular type of ingredient — sought-after by almost a third of visitors to the Bangkok show. Its popularity can in part be attributed to the “back to natural” trend we’re observing when looking at consumer behavior.

India’s Iconic Trademarks: Essential Oils

When it comes to the world of essential oils, India stands as a treasure trove of aromatic wonders. Among the suppliers in this thriving industry are Aromaaz International and Rakesh Sandal Industries.

Aromaaz International is renowned for its wholesale distribution of high-quality essential oils, catering to various industries.

On the other hand, Rakesh Sandal Industries has been a prominent manufacturer since 1972, offering a range of premium natural oils that are cherished for their purity and long shelf life. 

In an industry where fragrance and natural cosmetics intertwine, essential oils have become a trademark of the country. Some of the factors behind their recognition are the following:

• Rich tradition and history: India has a long history and deep-rooted tradition in the production and use of essential oils. The country is known for its expertise in traditional systems of medicine, such as Ayurveda, which extensively uses essential oils for their therapeutic benefits.

• Abundant botanical resources: India’s diverse and unique climate, along with its rich biodiversity, provides an abundance of botanical resources for essential oil production. The country is home to a wide variety of aromatic plants and herbs, many of which are used to extract essential oils. 

• International demand: Indian essential oils have gained recognition and popularity in the global market. Their reputation for quality, authenticity, and natural sourcing has attracted buyers from all over the world.

The association of essential oils with cultural heritage and traditions further enhances their recognition and value. These rituals are now finding their way into the Western world, with lots of brands adapting their formulations to have an Ayurvedic touch.

One specific ritual in India where essential oils are commonly used is the practice of aromatherapy in Ayurveda. They are utilized in various ways, such as in oil massages (known as Abhyanga) and in steam inhalation (known as Nasya).

In Nasya, a few drops of specific essential oils, such as eucalyptus or peppermint, are diluted in a carrier oil and applied to the nasal passages. This ritual is believed to clear the nasal passages, enhance respiratory health, and promote mental clarity. 

The Tangy Delights of Citrus Essential Oils

Linked to the abundant botanical resources available in India, the country is a significant producer of various citrus essential oils, including lime and orange. Incorporating these ingredients into your formulation can be done in a variety of ways.

Take, for example, facial cleansers and toners: adding a small amount of mandarin or lemon essential oil can offer astringent properties and help promote a clearer complexion. Or how about haircare products: provide a pleasant aroma and potential scalp benefits with orange essential oil.

It is important to note that citrus essential oils are photosensitive, meaning it can increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Therefore, always educate your end user on the usage of your products. As with any essential oil, it’s recommended to dilute citrus essential oils properly in any formulations for topical applications.

Nature calls: How Essential Oils Fit into the Natural Trend

To gain insight into the role of essential oils within the natural trend, we’ll need to dive into their origins. Essential oils are derived from plant extracts, embodying the pure and concentrated essence of the plant from which it is sourced. This inherent connection with the plant kingdom allows them to be labelled as “natural”, which is in line with the ongoing trend towards natural ingredients. 

The surging popularity of natural ingredients and products has brought about an increased demand for essential oils. However, this heightened demand might also lead to the potential proliferation of lower quality oils on the market, with numerous suppliers attempting to meet the growing needs, ensuring the authenticity and quality of essential oils becomes paramount.

Essencia, Swiss creator of natural perfumes and supplier of essential oils, distinguishes itself by prioritizing the delivery of only the highest quality products. To guarantee exceptional quality, Essencia combines in-house analytical quality checks with the expertise of their perfumers — or rather, their noses. Their commitment to quality and customer satisfaction is evident throughout their portfolio, which you can explore here. 

Experience the essence yourself

Given the rich tradition, abundant botanical resources, and expertise in essential oil production, it’s no wonder that Indian essential oils have gained immense popularity over the years.

The journey through the world of essential oils unveils their remarkable potential in personal care formulations. They don’t just offer physical benefits, but also enhance the sensory experience, capturing the essence of nature within your personal care products.

Let these essential oils transport you to a realm where nature’s essence meets personal care, creating products that not only nourish the body but also uplift the spirit. Start your search for the right essential oils today!

Want to find out more about Indian essential oils? Take in the India Country Focus at in-cosmetics Asia 2023.

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With advances in technology, increased online access and the proliferation of ecommerce over the past decade, there has been a growing trend of personalisation — and not only in the cosmetics sector. High street and FMCG examples include Coca-Cola bottles with first names printed on them, and customisable NIKEiD trainers.

Covering a multitude of price points, some brands offer bespoke shampoo or fragrance formulas, and others allow customers to choose and personalise bath and body gifts.

US-based Function of Beauty was launched in October 2016 by an MIT graduate after raising $12 million through Y Combinator. The company now has a reported value of $110 million. Function of Beauty offers 12 billion different combinations of ingredients. So where to start? First you choose your hair profile: straight/wavy/curly/coily; fine/medium/coarse; dry/normal/oily. Then five “hair goals” like lengthen, or nourish roots. The next step is to settle on a scent, fragrance strength and colour, or lack of colour, and to add in a name for your formula, which will be printed on the bottle. The price tag is $36 for a set of 8-oz (227 ml) shampoo and 8-oz conditioner, or $46 for bottles double that size. A subscription service is available.

At the upper end of the scale, at £450, sits Floris London with the offer of bespoke fragrance development. This includes a two-hour appointment with a perfumer in the Mayfair flagship store to create a unique 100ml eau de parfum, presented in a custom-engraved bottle. The formulation is kept on the company’s private perfume ledger so it can be ordered again.

Button & Wilde, born in the UK in 2017, is a personalised bath and body gifting brand. The website guides the customer through a selection of products like body lotion, hand wash and shower cream, then fragrance and bottle shapes. The next step is creating a personalised label, either by uploading a photo or choosing from a selection of patterns, and then adding a message. Prices range from £8.99 for a tin of hand butter to £24.98 for a set of two 250ml products. Full, proud disclosure: Grain Creative, which has now become Leidar London, is responsible for the naming and branding of Button & Wilde.

There is certainly room for making it personal in cosmetics, and it will be interesting to see which innovations hit the market in the coming months.

Madelyn Postman is Managing Director of Leidar London and will speak in the Marketing Trends theatre on “Tiny bubbles: children’s toiletry brands today” at in-cosmetics Global on Wednesday 18 April from 17.15-18.00.

Earlier this year, both Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) were added to ECHA’s restricted substances list, contained in Annex XVII of REACH. Under Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35 – which was published on January 10th 2018 – D4 and D5 can no longer be placed on the market in wash-off cosmetic products in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% (by weight of either substance) after January 31st 2020.

What are D4 and D5?

D4 and D5 are cyclosiloxanes (which are basic members of the broad family of silicone materials) mainly used as monomers for silicone polymer production. D4 and D5 – along with Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) – are the three cyclosiloxanes in commercial production, and are odourless, colourless liquids, commonly used as intermediates or basic raw materials in the production of silicone rubbers, gels and resins.

In addition to this, they also have a direct use in a number of personal care products, including body lotions, hair styling aerosols, pressurized sprays and sun care spray products.

What is the restriction procedure?

A Member State, or ECHA (at the request of the European Commission) can begin the restriction procedure if they are concerned that a substance poses an unacceptable risk to human health or the environment.

This intention to prepare a restriction proposal is published in the registry of intentions, and a dossier proposing the restriction must be prepared in accordance with Annex XV of REACH and submitted to ECHA within 12 months of the intention being made. The dossier contains background information such as the identity of the substance and justifications for the proposed restrictions.

The dossier is then made publicly available for consultation, where stakeholders can provide comments on the restriction on the ECHA website. After this, ECHA’s Committee for Risk Assessment (RAC) and Committee for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) will give their respective opinions, before the European Commission makes its final decision.

Once the restriction has been adopted, manufacturers, importers, distributors, downstream users and retailers must comply.

Why are D4 and D5 restricted?

In April 2015, the UK submitted a dossier to ECHA, proposing to restrict D4 and D5 in wash-off cosmetic products. This was assessed by the RAC in March 2016, who concluded in its opinion that D4 meets the criteria in Annex XIII of REACH to be identified as a PBT (persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic) substance and as a vPvB (very persistent and very bioaccumulative) substance, and that D5 fulfils the criteria to be identified as a vPvB substance.

Due to concerns that D4 and D5 may have the potential to accumulate in the environment and cause unpredictable and irreversible long-term effects, in June 2016 the RAC and SEAC agreed with the UK’s proposal to restrict D4 and D5 in wash-off personal care products. In addition to this, the SEAC recommended to defer the application of the restriction for 24 months to allow stakeholders to take necessary compliance measures.

This restriction comes into force on January 31st 2020, applies to ‘cosmetic products’ as defined in Article 2(1)(a) of EC Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetics that – under normal conditions of use – are washed off with water after application.

Potential further restrictions

At present, D4 and D5 are not restricted in other products. However, ECHA is currently working on a further proposal to restrict D4, D5 and D6 in leave on personal care products and other consumer/professional products, such as dry cleaning products, waxes and polishes, and other washing and cleaning products. In addition to this, a proposal has been made to also restrict D6 in wash-off cosmetic products.

An intention to prepare a restriction proposal has been published in the registry of restriction intentions, and the proposal is expected to be submitted in January 2019.

If these proposals are adopted, D6 will join D4 and D5 and will no longer be placed on the market in wash-off cosmetic products in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1%, and leave on personal care products and other consumer/professional products containing D4, D5 and D6 in concentrations equal to or greater than 0.1% shall not be placed on the market.

Industry has expressed strong objections to these additional restrictions.

This article was supplied by UL Prospector.

The core essence of digital transformation is to leverage technology, processes, people & culture to improve the customer experience across their entire journey. This is especially true in businesses like cosmetics & skin care that have both online & offline retail presence. In Asia, where a generation has skipped the desktop experience and is known to bemobile first, chatbots and mobile chat-apps like WeChat, LINE, Whatsapp, Kakao are evolutionizing how brands can create awareness, drive engagement and consideration, facilitate transactions and payments as well as provide customer service.

In this session, Prantik will share a framework supported by regional and global case studies that you can refer to holistically embrace and integrate mobile to improve your customer’s experience and drive profitable growth in your business.

in-cosmetics Asia is the leading exhibition and conference in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok, Thailand in October/November and is focused on personal care raw materials and manufacturing – more info at http://www.asia.in-cosmetics.com

Speaker is Prantik Mazumdar, Managing Partner, Happy Marketer, more info at https://www.happymarketer.com/

Miss. Rouah Al-Wakeel, Independent Consultant

in-cosmetics Global will launch two exclusive tours for R&D professionals when it lands in Amsterdam this April – ‘Biotechnology Actives’ and ‘The Future of Anti-Ageing. Leading technical consultant and cosmetic chemist Rouah Al-Wakeel will lead the tours.

Why are biotechnology actives on the menu for the R&D tours?

Biotechnology offers the opportunity to develop new products and make materials that would otherwise come from undesirable or unsustainable sources…. all this is achieved without giving up the ambition of having a greener earth and better economy. Biotechnology has become increasingly important to the cosmetic industry, even invaluable. We have been able to use biotechnology as a tool for discovery and for developing new materials and for manufacturing – including ingredients which can help to delay the ageing process. For example, fermentation is enzymes bio-transforming fruits, plants and herbs using yeast to help generate new, naturally derived and more sustainable ingredients. Essentially this is the foundation of synthetic biology, which is the future of our industry.

What impact are these types of ingredients having on formulations?

They allow us to create more intelligent formulations with enhanced efficacies and an increased awareness of sustainable, ecologically friendly approaches to personal care. Far more of today’s cosmetic actives are biotechnologically derived than when I started as a formulator. Just think of recent trends such as stem cells, algae extracts and peptides – all these exciting ingredients are traced back to biotechnology.

What benefits do they offer formulators, brands and consumers?

Formulators are asked to meet a list of requirements, specifications and functions for new product development or for improving existing products on the market. By using biotechnology, the industry now has a plethora of actives available, which cover the broad range of required efficacies. There have never been so many options available to the formulator, we are spoilt for choice. This enables us to be creative in terms of the finished products we produce and the brand concepts we create.

Are there any examples we could cite?

Mibelle developed the PhytoCellTec technology, which allows the cultivation of plant stem cells rich in epigenetic factors that have been shown to protect skin stem cells and slow the effects of ageing and thus are used in anti-ageing products. Mibelle have been leaders in biotechnology and personal care for years and have a wonderful portfolio of innovative ingredients you can expect to see at in-cosmetics Global in April.

What types of innovations are impacting the anti-ageing sector (types of ingredients, functions, benefits, etc.)?

One of the important discoveries is the human microbiome. The microbial communities that live in harmony with us on our bodies can now be ”described and watched” through techniques such as next generation DNA-sequencing. These techniques are bringing us a new understanding of the effects of imbalances in skin’s microbiota and how these microbial communities interplay with actives and products. This is expected to have a huge impact on formulations generally but because of the interest in anti-ageing, we expect to see the microbiome playing a big role in maintaining youthful skin. Our knowledge of the efficacy of natural ingredients has increased and this is having a big impact on anti-ageing. Natural actives such as those found in the salicylate family, which have potencies similar to retinol are now available to formulators. Also, a huge range of exciting anti-ageing peptides have been developed, many of which will be launched and showcased at in-cosmetics Global.

Do these innovations portend any significant changes in how anti-ageing is addressed?

Yes, I think consumers are now more aware and interested in the science behind the ageing process. They appreciate that the microbiome is having an effect and are contemplating the changes occurring at the surface of the skin, so rather than wanting a quick-fix to make them look younger, they are now looking for something toactually slow down the process whilst having long-term anti-ageing benefits in addition to instant results. This means we must continually create products to meet these growing expectations.

Are there any examples we could cite?

Expect to see some brilliant innovations launched at in-cosmetics Global in April, the peptides in particular will not disappoint.

How would you describe the state of innovation in the beauty and personal care world at the moment?

Fast paced, exciting and vibrant. There is so much potential in terms of the type of ingredients being created with thanks to biotechnology, which means there are many new products on the horizon for consumers.

What are the biggest opportunities presented by the latest innovations?

Due to next generation sequencing, we can see what is happening on the surface of the skin in real time. We can now see more readily the effects of environmental factors and how different ingredients and products behave on the skin and with different skin types. If we want to go even further, we can determine this on the skin of different individuals, which can lead to a more bespoke type of skin care. In addition to this, we can use biotechnology to enhance the performance of active ingredients thus increasing the efficacy of the finished product.

What are the key challenges?

The scientific world is moving at breath-taking speed and I feel the key challenges are ”education and sharing”. Exciting developments such as smart phones that have revolutionised our lives only exist because experts from different disciplines shared and applied their discoveries. in-cosmetics Global is a melting pot of experts, ideas and materials… another challenge is to take these experts out of the comfort of their labs and offices and into this “melting pot”.

What are the regulatory considerations?

Consumer safety is of the utmost importance; all new ingredients undergo thorough safety checks and assessments including the challenge test, which requires all formulas to quickly kill any added microbes. When these formulas are applied to skin they very probably disrupt the healthy skin microbiota.

Should regulators be revisiting the current requirements?

We need safe products and healthy skin, so maybe new techniques such as next generation sequencing (which showed us the microbiome) should now become part of the way we ensure products are safe.

For more information about the in-cosmetics Global R&D tours, please visit: http://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/

Last year’s in-cosmetics Formulation Summit was an undeniable success by any event standards. More than 150 cosmetic chemists and R&D professionals attended the two-day conference which saw leading global experts look in depth at the concept of ‘biotransforming beauty – formulating with nature’, examining the importance of the microbiome in formulating new personal care products.

Throughout the Summit, there was huge interest from the delegates in the various sessions presented, and many questions were asked, discussed and answered. In fact, it was the most engaged and interactive Formulation Summit yet, with many delegates contributing their opinions to audience-wide polls throughout the two days through new app Sli.do. Through this medium, delegates were also able to ask questions, resulting in a true debate-style conference.

However, as always with such highly topical industry events, time was limited, and it was not possible for our speakers to respond to everyone. So, since the Summit, we have gathered together as many unanswered questions as we could, and put these to our experts. They have very kindly responded to all relevant questions with as much information as possible. Below are details of the ten sessions that received follow-up questions. To access the Q&As, please click on the relevant title below. We do hope that you find this information useful.

The 2018 in-cosmetics Formulation Summit will take place on the 24th & 25th of October 2018, for further information, please visit www.in-cosmeticssummit.com

Day 1 – BIOTRANSFORMING BEAUTY

Q&A – Alessandro Mendes, Innovation Director, Natura
Bio based cosmetics – Science creating value to sustainable ingredients

Q&A – Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London
Revealing the skin microbiota

Dr. Lawrence Davies, Senior Microbiologist Perfectus Biomed
Biofilms and their importance in skin ecology

Q&A – Dr. Cécile Clavaud, Research Engineer, Open Research
Keeping scalp microbiota in check

Q&A – Keedon Park, CEO, Incospharm Corporation
Intracellular ‘housekeeping’ – Autophagy the new approach to anti-ageing

Q&A – Kit Wallen-Russell, Director, Pavane Research Centre and Nick Wallen, Co-Creator, JooMoo
A close look at preservatives, prebiotics and probiotics for a healthy microbiome

Day 2 – FORMULATING WITH NATURE

Q&A – Margo Marrone, Co-Founder, The Organic Pharmacy
Using key biotransformed cosmetic ingredients

Q&A – Prof. Ian W. Hamley, Diamond Professor of Physical Chemistry, University of Reading
Peptides/Enzymes to the rescue

Q&A – Mark Dorfman, Biomimicry Chemist, Biomimicry 3.8
Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation

Q&A – David Delport, Global Head of Education, REN Clean Skincare
Bio-protection from polluting nanoparticles

At in-cosmetics Korea 2017, Nikola Matic, Director at Kline, presented “The cosmetic ingredients market – USA & Europe vs Asia” during the Marketing Trends & Regulations presentations.

USA and Europe remain the largest global markets for cosmetic ingredients and while other countries may be regarded as trend setters, Western markets are still essential from a business perspective. While the markets are maturing, they still offer many opportunities in many niches.

Nikola Matic gives an overview of the market for personal care ingredients in both Europe and the USA, looking at both sides of the business: ingredients and finished products. Key differences with Asian markets will also be underlined.

At in-cosmetics Korea 2017, Belinda Carli, Director at the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS), looked at “The present and future of customization” during the Marketing Trends & Regulations presentations.

Belinda Carli is the Director of Institute of Personal Care Science, leaders in on-line Internationally Recognized Training for Cosmetic Formulation and Regulatory Affairs. Belinda provides training to all levels of industry, from Beginners through to Advanced Diplomas both on-site and via distance. She specializes in training on innovative and compliant product developments.

Customization is a rapidly growing trend that Personal Care companies need to embrace! Belinda Carli discusses some of the key features in this presentation including customisable bases with optional actives, how to customize color or scent, how apps can play a big part in your customized offerings etc. Watch this presentation to find out how to add customization to your product offerings so that you don’t get left behind.

More videos from Marketing Trends & Regulations at in-cosmetics Korea 2017 can be found at news.in-cosmetics.com.

Video taken at in-cosmetics Korea – the only exhibition in South Korea dedicated to personal care ingredients – 2017.  Register and learn more at korea.in-cosmetics.com.