The 10th edition of in-cosmetics Latin America was a success, showcasing the fair’s continued growth. A total of 7,498 visitors were counted, including 6,130 unique attendees, consisting of formulation, research and development (R&D) professionals, and marketing. These professionals attended the event to explore the latest products and portfolios from 230 exhibiting companies, both national and international, from countries like Uruguay, Chile, the United States, India, China, the United Kingdom, and more.

The exhibition area was also larger compared to 2023, with a 28% increase.

Highlights in Innovation and Sustainability

As is tradition, in-cosmetics Latin America became the stage for awards, which allowed industry professionals and brands to discover the event’s standout ingredients in an exclusive ceremony.

In the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award for functional ingredients, Givaudan’s Silk-iCare won the gold. Silver went to Seppic’s Solagum GM, and bronze to Lubrizol Life Science’s Carbopol® FusionS-20 polymer.

In the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards 2024 for active ingredients, Givaudan’s Neuroglow took first place. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ CycloRetin came in second, and Ashland always solving’s perfectyl biofunctional placed third.

“These recognitions demonstrate the value of investing in innovation. We focus on science, research, and development, dedicating ourselves to bringing new solutions to the market. This is the result of the hard work of our R&D team,” said André Genovez de Freitas, head of active beauty sales for Givaudan Latam, whose company won first place in both categories.

The Innovation Zone jury included Cleber Barros (Escola Vínia), Adriana Castañeda (Belcorp Colombia), Celso Martins Junior (Grandha), Emiro Khury (EK Consultores), Rafaela Moretti (Devintex), and Larissa Spehar (L’Occitane).

Sustainability and Other Innovations

New to in-cosmetics Latin America, the Sustainability Display Award 2024 recognized sustainable ingredients, with Wasabi Flavone by TriBeaute Connect Health and Beauty with Science taking the top prize among nine competing products. The evaluation was conducted by a panel that included Giulio Peron (Quintal Dermocosmetics), Luciana Amiralian (Phisalia Cosmetics), Iguatemi Costa (Natura Brasil), Alice Matos Xavier (L’Oréal), and Amarjit Sahota (Ecovia Intelligence).

In the ABIHPEC Innovation Award, organized by the Brazilian Association of the Personal Hygiene, Perfumery, and Cosmetics Industry (ABIHPEC), Innovasell Fine Ingredients & Actives won the gold, Provital Do Care took silver, and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics earned bronze. Alkativ and BASF were also honored at the ceremony.

“We recognize the importance of the Brazilian cosmetics industry, and these awards enhance everyone’s work, especially our company, as we won for the second year in a row, thanks to the efforts of our entire team,” said Selmo Araujo, CEO of Innovasell Fine Ingredients & Actives, after the award.

Other Highlights and Technologies

In the exhibition space, attendees could explore the latest launches and trends that reflect the current market focus on solutions that combine science and sustainability.

• BASF presented the Uvinul® TS Hydro sunscreen, which improves photoprotection and provides a more liquid texture, along with Mixy, a technology that aids in the formulation process of personalized products.
• Collormix introduced Yura Q, a natural alternative for producing white exfoliants, sourced from the Tagua seed of Ecuadorian palm trees, offering biodegradable, color-free exfoliation.
• The Lubrizol Corporation launched the Zenerity byotech ingredient, derived from Italian thermal sources, which helps neutralize skin inflammation and combat premature aging.
• Chemyunion‘s campaign, Rejuvelhecer, promoted healthy aging, showcasing powder and capsule shampoos.
• Stepan introduced a playful children’s cosmetics line, including jelly soap, crayon-like bath chalk, slime shampoo, and moldable conditioner.

The Innovation Tour, led by cosmetology professor Cleber Barros, highlighted these innovations for attendees.

On the topic of artificial intelligence, a key theme this year, the ABIHPEC Innovation Workshop featured panels on the role of AI in sustainability in the cosmetics industry, with participation from experts from Natura, Innova Beauty, and L’Oréal.

Other event spaces offered valuable content, including the Technical Seminars, featuring brand executives discussing ingredients and formulation techniques, and the Marketing Trends, which explored global trends in brand communication. The new Beauty Forward by Cosmetics and Toiletries Brasil presented the latest cosmetic trends and innovations.

This was just a glimpse of what took place at the 2024 edition. “It was a chance to see the technological and sustainable advancements made by companies from Latin America and beyond, reflecting the event’s role in driving the market forward with knowledge, updates, and new business opportunities. It was a success, showcasing the ten years of in-cosmetics Latin America,” concluded Ana Beatriz Elia, head of the event.

The 2025 edition is scheduled for September 23-24 at Expo Center Norte in São Paulo. Mark your calendars!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

It was just a few weeks before the start of in-cosmetics Latin America 2022 when we visited the FarmaMake group in São Paulo. Run by Flávia Rocha, the Brazilian beauty conglomerate consists of companies such as the traditional Farmaervas, TB Make, Tracta, and Mari Maria Makeup, among other well-known cosmetic brands in the Brazilian market.

On that day, we had some major items on the schedule: besides making the final arrangements for the group’s talks at in-cosmetics Latin America, we would personally interview Bruna Tavares, journalist, digital influencer (with over 5 million followers on her Instagram accounts), and founder of the cosmetics brand of the same name Bruna Tavares (BT), which is also part of the FarmaMake group. In this meeting, we officially invited Bruna to participate in in-cosmetics 2022, and she accepted.

To get to the group’s meeting room – a super cosy “instagrammable” environment – we crossed a long corridor with plenty of laboratories and different teams working on cosmetics research and development. In one of these laboratories, exclusive to the BT brand, the entrepreneur Bruna Tavares invests many hours of work, participating directly in the development phase of exclusive products for her brand. In 2022 alone, there will be 15 launchings and 69 new SKUs, besides BT’s entry in the skincare category with the Cherry Blossom line.

Before we started the interview, Bruna told us, giddy with excitement, that she recently volunteered to be a “citizen scientist” in NASA’s asteroid-hunting programme. “I have become an asteroid hunter. What we do is: we analyse images in search of significant asteroids and report back to Harvard. The other day, my captain said that she could analyse my images if I didn’t have the time. But I replied that she had no idea who I was. If I get into something like that, I take the bull by its horns. I start it off to save the planet – that’s the goal.” the entrepreneur teases.

The surprise we had at finding an “asteroid hunter” is just an appetiser of Bruna’s trajectory. She started in the beauty universe in 2009, when she graduated in journalism at PUC Campinas, in the countryside of São Paulo. She had a meteoric rise in the following years, with the creation of the blog “Pausa para Feminices”(“A break for femininities” in free translation from Brazilian Portuguese) and also the launching of her cosmetics brand in 2016. Nowadays, BT is known nationally and has an excellent performance, with a turnover that exceeds 30 million dollars per year.

When she graduated in journalism, Bruna took advantage of the knowledge she already had in blog creation – due to a project developed during her degree – and decided to invest in a blog with topics focused on culture, fashion and beauty, with the aim of networking. With time, she noticed the growth of the beauty section and led the blog to this area.

“I have always loved make-up. My mother loves red lipstick – she was a banker and used to go to work every day wearing this colour – it was her trademark. In addition, I also took up theatre from a young age, so make-up has always been a place of empowerment, self-esteem and art in my life.” the businesswoman explains.

Bruna started out writing make-up reviews and her blog grew at the same time as her career as a journalist. As a reporter and editor of well-known portals and magazines in Brazil, she got to know the press officers of all beauty brands. It was talking to one of them that turned her career around.

The journalist learned that the brand Tracta was doing an unprecedented project in Brazil with influencers. Tracta, a reference in the Brazilian cosmetics market with make-up and dermo-cosmetic facial treatment lines, is part of Farmaervas, a pioneer company in the development of natural products, present in the Brazilian market since 1940.

Tracta chose 12 bloggers to develop a lipstick to be launched in a unique collection. Bruna was invited at the last minute because one of the influencers dropped out. Between the invitation and the lipstick creation, there were just 2 weeks: “I didn’t have time to plan, but I managed to get a buzz going on my blog, and I involved my public in choosing the colour and the name for the lipstick. The post about my participation in the project had a record number of comments, so I thought I would have to create a different lipstick colour that would please this public because they would certainly be the ones who would buy the lipstick”, the businesswoman says.

On the day of the creation in the lab, she presented the idea of making lipstick in neon coral colour, using the picture of a salmon fish as a reference. But she was very insecure when she saw that all the other bloggers had taken MAC lipsticks as references. Her colour was very complex, it took them a long time to get the shade and she went home feeling very unsettled. When her mother tried the lipstick, she said: “Bruna, I’ve never seen anything like it! Look how beautiful this colour looks on me”.

“My mother is very straight, so I felt that was a sign. I wanted that “WOW” feeling. To this day, when I develop a product, I go back to that place and seek that reaction from my mother. I always think about how the consumer will feel and react to a product: it has to be good enough to impact the customer, regardless of the campaign,” she explains.

Instead of receiving the commission in cash, Bruna asked for payment in lipsticks and started sending them to journalists and influencers as a business card and publicity. The lipstick was Tracta’s best seller and, in a short time, her blog skyrocketed from 4,000 hits a day to 40,000, which earned her new work partnerships, including with cosmetics giant Sephora.

At that time, what she earned from advertising on the blog was already higher than her salary as a journalist, but she still did not dare to leave the editorial room. In 2012, she developed a complete make-up line with Tracta, using the name of her blog “Pausa para Feminices”. In 2013, she stopped her work as a journalist and started to dedicate herself to creating new cosmetic lines and products, and in 2016 Bruna finally launched her brand, which bears her name.

Since then, BT has only grown. In 2019, it was already making 10 million reais and, in 2020, it launched the first line of foundations in Brazil with 30 different shades. Their success was so great that, in 3 days, they sold 200,000 units of the products, which helped the company grow 67% that year.

The line with 30 shades of foundation was a project that took more than 2 years to get off the ground. Even in such an ethnically diverse country, national brands only offered 9 to 10 shades of foundation. When Bruna noticed this gap in the market and the delay of products from abroad reaching the country, she decided to research and launch a national line that would better cater to the Brazilian consumer.

In 2021, a year of pandemic and crisis in the Brazilian and world market, the brand managed to grow 10%, reaching an annual turnover of more than 18 million dollars. In 2022, with a line that boasts 213 SKUs, Bruna Tavares’ BT projects to sell almost 6.5 million products and have revenue that will surpass the impressive $30 million mark, a 71% growth over the previous year.

At in-cosmetics Latin America 2022, Bruna took part in a panel on social media and influencers alongside founders of other beauty brands and representatives from TikTok’s beauty and personal care sector. At that time, she shared some moments of her inspiring story, highlighting the challenge of entering retail since, a few years ago, companies still did not understand how a brand with a blogger’s name could be successful. Only after partnering with Sephora did retailers open their doors to the brand.

At the in-cosmetics panel – which was packed – Bruna told the audience that product creations always come from market research and gaps. “We do the briefing based on the existing demand and deliver the needs to our lab. Nowadays, I already understand a lot more about the formulation, so we create together,” she explained.

When asked about BT’s next steps, Bruna Tavares makes no mystery: she tells us that soon the brand will present a new product that will offer different experiences to the consumer and talks about the brand’s internationalisation – which is already on its way. “I am constantly learning, and my challenge as a businesswoman now is to be able to think about the brand’s longevity without dehumanising it,” she concludes.

We end the interview by looking at an image of an asteroid that the businesswoman found for Nasa, named BTS003. We don’t know if she will find an asteroid of vital importance and save the planet, but we are sure that even the sky is no limit for Bruna. In this context involving space, Bruna Tavares is certainly a star that stands out in the constellation of brands and beauty business people in Brazil already, and soon she will also be known and recognised internationally.

Fly high, Bruna and BT! Our in-cosmetics community will always be watching you!

* BT’s turnover is in Brazilian reais. However, for this article, we have converted the figures into US dollars at the exchange rate of 13/10/2022

1 USD = 5.26021 BRL

From stardom to beauty universe. The Brazilian actress Cristiana Oliveira became famous after playing one of the most famous roles on Brazilian Television, Juma Marruá, in the first version of the soap opera Pantanal, in 1990, and nowadays she spends her time between acting and her cosmetic brands: D’Bianco Professional and C.O Cosméticos.

It is not enough to star on television, in movies, in music, or on the internet, in recent years we have seen a movement of actresses, singers and digital influencers becoming entrepreneurs in the area of beauty.

Rihanna may be one of the most famous international examples of investment in the beauty market. Betting heavily on the cosmetic industry, one of the most known singers currently, she even took some time off of her career to dedicate exclusively to her brand. Fenty Beauty by Rihanna has added up more than 11 million followers on Instagram only, and it is an absolute sales success, having transformed the singer into a new beauty sector billionaire.

Before her, sisters Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian had also launched Kylie Cosmetics and KKW Beauty, respectively, and, following their lead, there came Haus Labs, by Lady Gaga, r.e.m beauty, by Ariana Grande, JLo Beauty by Jennifer Lopez, Rhode, by Hailey Bibier, amongst countless others.

Brazil is not far behind this trend, in the last couple of years, renowned names from the digital universe, such as Camila Coutinho, Julia Petit and Bruna Tavares, invested both time and effort to create their cosmetic brands, transferring their knowledge and reputation to their businesses.

We have interviewed exclusively the actress Cristiana Oliveira, who has also joined the cosmetics market recently. She welcomed us in a virtual meeting that was more than 2 hours long and, told us upfront that her inspiration for the beauty universe comes from observing her mother when she was still young.

“Since I was a teenager, I had always noticed that my mother was very careful with her hair and skin. My father was the chairman of a big company in the 60s and my parents used to travel a lot and participate in events which made my mother constantly worry about taking care of herself. She really liked to look after herself.” says Cristiana.

Following her mother’s example, the actress was always inspired to research cosmetic products. The exuberant hair, a trademark of the leading character Juma Marruá, played and immortalized by Cristiana in the first version of the soap opera Pantanal, has always received special attention from the actress, but it took 3 decades for an opportunity to invest in the cosmetics universe to arise and, coincidently, in the haircare sector.

In 2018, the actress was invited to become a partner in the brand devoted to hairdressers, D’Bianco Professional. “I said that I wanted to learn about [the products], try [them], but also send the products to friends, influencers, people I’m not so close to, so that they could give their honest opinion. After having 98% positive feedback, I accepted the invitation to join D’ Bianco as a business partner and director.”, explains Cristiana.

In 2019, the business partners created another brand, aimed at the end consumer this time around, called C.O Cosméticos, in reference to the actress’s initials. The C.O Cosméticos works with a door-to-door sales model and is also sold in stores specialising in cosmetics.

The news this month is that they are launching a vegan line, offering the market 9 products developed with oils from the Pantanal and inputs from other Brazilian biomes. “We had already launched a vegan micellar water that became a hit, and now we have developed this line”, says the actress and businesswoman.

The line with “Pantanal oils” is divided into 3 kits with shampoo, conditioner and hair mask each. The products for curls are made with Pequi oil, the products for hydration have Buriti oil in their formula and the post-chemical products were created with Pracaxi oil. Cristiana Oliveira was recently invited to be an ambassador of SOS Pantanal NGO, an organization whose mission is to disseminate and promote dialogue for a sustainable Pantanal. According to the actress, part of the income from the sale of these cosmetics will be donated to the NGO. During the launching, the products will be sold with a special box that on the side will display a summary regarding SOS Pantanal and a QR Code that will take the customer to the organization’s website.

The timing to talk about Brazilian biomes in the country couldn’t be better, since a remake of the Pantanal soap opera has just starred on Globo Television, 32 years after its original version – in the last week of March. Although Cristiana Oliveira is not cast in the new version, she says that if she’s at all worried about sustainability, animals and environmental preservation, it is all due to the experience and immersion she had in Pantanal in 1990.  “I also lived in Manaus for 4 months in 1991, while shooting my second soap opera, that went by the name Amazonia, and all this experience led me to volunteer and work with several conservation NGOs over the years,” tells us Cristiana.

For the fans who miss the actress, she will soon be on the big screen with the movie Eco Loucos, and at the end of April, she will also release an autobiographical book, in which she tells her stories in search of self-esteem and her relationship with maturity. For those who would like to know more about Cristiana Oliveira’s businesswoman side, they can now take home a little bit of Pantanal in the haircare products that C.O Cosméticos produces.

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As curious as it may sound, I found inspiration to write this article thanks to a cup of coffee. I am Colombian and coffee has always been important to me. I like to look for coffees that are special, unique and now the trend in my country is the production of micro-batches, of select and high-quality varieties, which seek to generate experiences in consumers beyond taste. The Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia is an example of human adaptation to difficult geographical conditions where high altitude coffee growing developed in the middle of the Andes mountains and also in other areas. In this landscape, the human, family and generational efforts of coffee growers are combined, which led to Unesco declaring it a World Heritage Site in 2011.

It is gratifying to find, for example, in the high mountain areas of Quindío, coffees produced at high altitudes and which, due to metabolic adaptations of the plant, generate chocolatey, soft and elegant profiles in the coffee bean. I recently found a CBD-infused coffee that has a spectacular sensory profile with pistachio, herbal and nut flavours, moderate acidity, and releases herbal, lemongrass, and intense cannabis aromas. The contribution is 8 mg of CBD per gram of coffee. CBD definitely continues to generate very interesting trends.

The global CBD market was estimated at US$2.8 billion in 2020 and has a projection of US $3.5 billion by 2021. It has a projected CAGR of 21.2% from 2021 to 2028 to reach a projected value of US $13.4 billion in 2028.

Next, we are going to travel from the green mountains of Colombia to some of the current CBD trends.

Expansion of the legalization of cannabis and derivatives: This is a very interesting point for the cosmetic industry since several countries are making considerable progress in the regulation and legislation of these products.

Wellness and CBD: This is one of the most dynamic trends, as there are a wide variety of launches related to products for oral consumption such as capsules, gums, infusions, etc., that help people to obtain the best benefits in topics such as rest, well-being, relaxation, recovery, pain relief, anti-inflammatory and anti-stress action.

CBD Bath Bombs: We are seeing very exciting launches of bath bombs that help relieve redness and muscle pain thanks to the anti-inflammatory properties of CBD.

Food and drinks with CBD: The sale of these products has had a significant increase in recent years, we see new ideas in the launch of chocolates, gummies and infusions. The playful concept is key in this trend. Brands like Weed Claw, Hi FI hops and Oh Hi are big players in the sector.

CBD and intimate care: There are new publications and reports that indicate how CBD can enliven the sex life. We are seeing product innovations that help increase sensitivity, increase blood flow in the genital area, provide relaxation, and provide stimulating novel lubrication. This is interesting because there are companies that are setting trends with new concepts of massage oils, edible products, lubricants and erotic cosmetics.

CBD and scalp: New proposals to reduce itching and irritation of the scalp. In the coming months, we will see very interesting studies at congresses, fairs and specialized magazines on the properties of CBD in hair cosmetics.

CBD therapies for pets: This trend is very interesting, as CBD is gaining more and more ground in interesting products for dogs and cats. We find benefits such as analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects.

CBD tampons and suppositories: Help fight cramps, bloating and fatigue, common side effects during menstruation. We found proprietary products that mix CBD extracts with cocoa butter, safe to be used vaginally or anally. CBD tampons release a small amount that can be absorbed by the mucosa to help reduce uterine pain. Consumers mention that the benefits are perceived from 30 minutes.

Energy patch: Innovation is also showing us very interesting options in the patch format. We see patches with the energy boost claim, which have vitamins B12, D and CBD. We also find a variety of patches for the eye area with CBD that help relieve signs of fatigue and stress in this area.

Marshmallow: Explosive combination of chocolate-coated marshmallows enriched with CBD. Without a doubt, the mixture of chocolate and CBD is a great source of inspiration for new cosmetic concepts.

Eau de CBD: In perfumery, we see very interesting concepts such as products that have 150 mg of CBD and that are specially designed for people who have allergies and sensitivity to aromas.

CBD Honey: Organic honey enriched with 100 mg of CBD. The applications in desserts and confectionery are very interesting.

CBD Powder: In the market, we find new formats of CBD and derivatives in powder presentation that can be used in cosmetics. The solid cannabis trend is beginning to consolidate in several categories.

CBD massage candles: Interesting applications where the product is available without perfume or in different versions that include essential oils. In the instructions, it is mentioned that the candles should be left on for 20 minutes so that the soy wax has time to melt in order to be used in the massage.

CBD and men’s grooming: The great CBD trend also reaches men’s cosmetics. Recently the discographic producer DJ Khaled launched the Groomed x Blesswell line in Chicago, in the store, customers can enjoy free cleaning services, as well as purchase differentiated products such as a blue charcoal face mask, beard conditioner, moisturizers, scrubs, bath gels and shaving creams.

CBD Ice creams: California-based Angel Haus recently launched gourmet cannabis-infused ice cream. Its aim is to satisfy the most extravagant cravings of consumers.

Narcotic claims: The CBD boom is generating a trend in which we will see the decay of other substances and benefits for cosmetics and food. The regulatory path is long, but this is a market trend that represents great opportunities for innovation.

CBD Dispensers: Cultiva Wellness has launched a new machine in Miami a few months ago considered a smart sales and dispensing experience, designed to offer the most exclusive selection of CBD and wellness products that adapt to the lifestyle. It has several features to help adults get the products they need safely. With remote monitoring and operation, a contactless payment system, and blockchain technology to verify age, the next-generation dispenser makes hemp and CBD products more accessible.

CBD & Sports: the application of CBD in products for athletes, athletes and fans of a healthy lifestyle is a very interesting category. There are several products that show the benefits of CBD for people who practice CrossFit, Yoga and MMA and in general, for athletes who demand a lot from their bodies. We find gels for muscle aches, massage oils, creams for muscles and joints, sublingual drops that can contain up to 500 mg of CBD, balm, multivitamin products, lozenges to suck, tinctures, body creams, recovery creams and other formats that mark the pattern.

CBD is definitely setting trends in various categories and in the coming months we will continue to see very interesting innovations and proposals. Undoubtedly, thanks to the new regulatory advances there is a great opportunity in the market. The challenge is to develop innovative proposals that continue generating trends.

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Theme 1: CLEAN BEAUTY
Raw materials that put safety first

As the sustainable trend moves into the mainstream, consumers start to question the impact of ‘natural’ products on their health. CLEAN BEAUTY is not only defined by the level of sustainability, but also whether a product is safe for the consumer or not.

Ingredient lists will need to be transparent and each ingredient will need to be justified. If certain ingredients cannot be safely replaced by naturals, most consumers will choose their own safety over a negative environmental impact.

Theme 2: SENSORIALISM
Raw materials with visible, tangible, or fragrant effects

SENSORIALISM brings well-being moments to everyone’s home. While consumers spend more and more time in front of their screens, they are seeking real product experiences reconnecting them with their bodies. Tingling, warming, or cooling effects enhance the active benefits of products, while visible effect pigments used in skin care, personal care, and hair care add visual appeal to products. Scents add another dimension to the product experience for a truly 360° sensorial experience.

Theme 3: HYPERFORMANCE
Raw materials with quick and potent results

With increasingly product-savvy consumers, innovation and quality become more important than ever. HYPERFORMANCE highlights raw materials with powerful efficacy and premium claims. Consumers are looking for high-performance products with almost instant effects like filling, plumping, anti-aging, glow, etc. It’s no longer about marketing promise – today’s time-poor consumers want immediate and effective solutions.

The post Three macro movements for ‘Spotlight On’ Area first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/three-macro-movements-for-spotlight-on-area/feed/ 0 6075 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/the-importance-of-sensorial-analysis-in-product-development/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/the-importance-of-sensorial-analysis-in-product-development/#respond Mon, 03 Sep 2018 15:36:29 +0000 http://new-incos-news.bitnamiapp.com/?p=6044 Cleber Barros – Technical Researcher, Vinia  The sensorial question in cosmetic product development is an important theme that deserves attention because it determines the success of your formulation and brings more consumers to your brand. Sensory is as important a question as performance. ‘Sensorial’ can be understood as a characteristic that allows a connection between […]

Verónica Celdrán, Tecnocosmetics

Permanent hair colouring or oxidation accounts for more than 80% of the market sales of hair colouration. It is called permanent because the colour obtained remains inside the hair and can only be removed from it by a discolouration process. It is also known as oxidation colouration since its application and color development requires mixing with an oxidising agent, formulated with hydrogen peroxide.

The substrate on which the hair colouration is applied is the surface of the hair called the cuticle. The cuticle consists of several layers of hard, keratinised cells, one on top of the other, that line the inside of the hair called the cortex, therefore fulfilling the function of barrier to the entry of substances. The cells of the cuticle are separated from each other by a lipoprotein structure called cell membrane complex (CMC). This complex is the main way of entering the cortex of those substances of a molecular size less than or equal to six angstroms, such as water molecules, hydrogen peroxide, ammonia and oxidation dyes.

This type of coloration has components in its formulation that are essential for the formation of colour in the hair:

• Oxidation dyes: primary intermediates and couplers
• An alkalising agent, for example, ammonia
• A base or support, generally an emulsion, that contains the basic components of an emulsion, a solvent, antioxidants and a sequestrant.

An oxidising agent is also needed, which is external to the formulation of the capillary dye, the most used being hydrogen peroxide in cream or emulsion. The oxidant and the dye are mixed, and this mixture is immediately applied to the hair for colour development. The principle of the chemistry of colour formation is based on the oxidation of the primary intermediate dyes, which are aromatic amines, and their subsequent reaction or coupling with the dye couplers, obtaining larger coloured molecules that are insolubilised in the cortex of the hair, staying there held.

 Verónica Celdrán will lead a presentation on colour formation mechanism during the application of a hair dye oxidation on Wednesday 19th September, 13:30-16:00, at the Marketing Trends Theatre at in-cosmetics Latin America.

 The post Colour formation mechanism during the application of a hair dye oxidation first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/latin-america/colour-formation-mechanism-during-the-application-of-a-hair-dye-oxidation/feed/ 0 6034 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/as-the-microbiome-takes-a-beauty-focus-scalp-care-can-take-note/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/as-the-microbiome-takes-a-beauty-focus-scalp-care-can-take-note/#respond Thu, 23 Aug 2018 17:16:49 +0000 http://new-incos-news.bitnamiapp.com/?p=5980 Andrew McDougall, Global Haircare Analyst, Mintel Products that maintain healthy skin flora are in the spotlight and can address a multitude of scalp and hair issues. This means that an opportunity is opening up for hair brands to take a microbiome approach in order to specifically address scalp health concerns, help consumers to diagnose their […]

Some of the best product innovation you’ll see today comes as a direct result of businesses looking outside of their industries and into neighbouring ones. For the beauty and healthcare industries, that increasingly means the food sector.

The food and beverage and beauty worlds are colliding like never before – driven by new consumer needs including total wellness, a desire for peak mental state and the ability to detox from everyday stress. Fragrance, skin and personal care brands can all benefit from this convergence, with food ingredients and scent playing a key role.

We’ve seen power greens transform from food through to the skin, for example, while overlooked sources such as algae are being harvested to formulate new nutrient-rich and long-lasting product lines. Such developments demonstrate how food-based ingredients can deliver results beyond their most obvious uses. Many of these versatile ingredients are also highly sustainable, helping brands to tap into the green movement that the beauty industry is entering.

When it comes to packaging those products, brands can also gain inspiration and guidance from the food industry. We’re all familiar with the saying you ‘eat with your eyes’ first and this is something the food industry has been exploring at great length, through both product and pack, and it is an approach that beauty brands should also consider.

Food and drink ingredients are enabling revolutionary product development cross-industry and it’s vital that beauty and healthcare brands do not ignore the opportunity.

Andrea Bisker will lead a presentation on the Future of Flavour and opportunities for your brand on Thursday 20 September, 16:30-17:15, at the Marketing Trends Theatre at visit in-cosmetics Latin America.