Trends in Colour Cosmetics

Tracking consumer trends in any category is like forecasting the weather: unpredictable and unreliable! Consumers move in mysterious ways today. While it’s always been true that for every trend there’s a counter trend, that’s never been truer than now!

Still, we continue to look for patterns, behavioural changes and indicators in many consumer categories that may tell us something about where beauty trends are headed.

Those of us who love tracking consumer behaviour will continue to do so. When we’re wrong, we hope no one notices!

What I’m reviewing here is not newly emerging. These directions have staying power and are, I believe, indicators worth exploring.

Colour Cosmetics + Skincare Ingredients

Makeup is increasingly linked to skincare. The demand for products that also demonstrate skin benefits like radiance, hydration, or UV and pollution protection are becoming essential. Foundation seems like the most logical place to start, but it doesn’t stop categories such as blush, brow gel and eye liner from jumping on board.
What we’re seeing is a creation of hybrid products that combine the artistry of makeup with the science of skin care.

Here are a few examples I believe are noteworthy:

Ciele Tint & PROTECT SPF 50+ Tinted Serum Foundation
Jones Road Miracle Balm All-Over Glow (this could also be added to the “Glow” list that follows)
Kosas Revealer Concealer
Chanel N°1 de Chanel Lip and Cheek Balm
Ilia Limitless Lash Mascara
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner
Valde Beauty Ritual Creamy Satin Lipstick
Kjaer Weis FeatherTouch Brow Gel

Glisten & Glow

While the pendulum may swing back and forth between radiant and matte, the fact remains, glowing skin is aspirational. Radiant skin looks healthier, younger, more energetic and vibrant. TikTok loves this category because of its powerful visual appeal and attraction.

The entries in this category are substantial. There are few brands without one. This is a random sampling.

RMS Beauty Luminizer The OG glow. It doesn’t get better than this!
Chanel Le Blanc Rosy Light Drops
Kosas Glow I.V. Vitamin-Infused Skin Illuminating Enhancer
Armani Beauty Fluid Sheer Glow Enhancer
Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter Sticks

Lash-Out with Colour! Coloured Mascara is having a moment!

Red, pink, yellow, purple, green or blue, lashes have never had such a rainbow of colors to choose from. Like hair color and nail lacquer, there is no limit on the color palette.
Pat McGrath Dark Star Colour Blitz Mascara: red, fuchsia, azure, jade
Kiko Milano Smart Colour Mascara: purple, emerald, bright blue, metallic burgundy
ColourPop BFF Volumizing Mascara: blue, red, green, purple, pink
Chanel Noir Allure: red, orange, lilac

Many brands have jumped in here: Chanel, Valde, Hermès, Fenty Beauty, Dries Van Noten, Hourglass, Dior, Kjaer Weis, Lush and Guerlain.
Anecdotal evidence from beauty influencers and consumer reviews suggests positive reception. Consumers appreciate the ability to reduce waste and often view refillable products as a luxury or premium option. However, I’m not hearing great reviews from suppliers on this topic. It can also be complicated for retailers, forcing them to carry additional inventory. From the few I’ve spoken with, sales are not robust.

As much as the concept feels like the right thing to do, carrying and displaying an expensive lipstick is part of our industry’s DNA. When the case starts to look shop-worn (and they all do after weeks or months in a bag), buying a refill to keep the original case out of landfill is probably unlikely.

The entire refill concept remains controversial. There are experts who say the refills only exacerbate the carbon footprint. The jury is still out.

Hot/Interesting Products

Milk MakeUp really scored on this one. Sticks are hot in all categories and their Cooling Water Jelly Sticks are playful, easy to use and very social media friendly. Lots of press and a quick sell-out!
Milk MakeUp Cooling Water Jelly Tint Sheer Lips & Cheek Stain

Lush Earth Naked Mascara launched last year with an interesting concept. A blend of butters and waxes are moulded into a solid form so no plastic packaging is required. The consumer wets one of the 3 brush choices (no plastic in the brush), twirls it inside the mascara “roll”, picks up the desired amount of product and applies it to lashes. It’s a new gesture that requires a bit of practice, but scores high for innovation.

For the colour crazy beauty consumer, there’s plenty of action and lots to choose from. New textures and delivery systems work their magic and adding a few skin friendly ingredients doesn’t hurt either.

Whether it’s for self-expression, confidence boosting, transformation, mental health “therapy” or just plain fun, there’s nothing that beats make up for a feel-good vibe!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

The wheels of market growth are revving in China, and they’re revving their engine toward sales that exceed 75 billion USD within the Beauty and Personal Care market by 2022. That’s according to a recent forecast by market research powerhouse, Euromonitor, who anticipate China enjoying an average year on year growth of 6.3%, from now until it reaches that 2022 destination.

Fuelling China’s significant growth within the BPC market comes mostly down to sales of skincare products, but it’s the sale of colour cosmetics that presents itself as the most dynamic personal care category regarding value in 2017. Driving the demand for cosmetics with a visually more vibrant hue, it seems, is China’s younger generation, particularly woman born in the 1980s and 1990s. This more colourful demographic, it is thought, tends to pay more attention to their outer appearance, and therefore tend to consume more colour cosmetics. Image consciousness may seem like an obvious attribution to the boost in personal care products, but what may come as a surprise is the idea that the adoption of new technologies, such as AR (Augmented Reality), is also considered to have boosted BPC sales, in particular, colour beauty products.

If China’s year on year growth wasn’t enough to entice substantial global investment, its gross margin in the beauty and personal care industry might. According to a local consultancy, Insight & Info, the average gross margin of brand companies in the Chinese beauty and personal care industry is 60%-80%, meaning this booming market will undoubtedly create enormous demand and boundless opportunities for personal care ingredient suppliers the world over.

PCHi Show

The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show is China’s leading Sourcing Platform for the Global Personal Care Industry. As an innovation-led event, PCHi provides cosmetics, home and personal care manufacturers, ingredients suppliers, cosmetics packaging, machinery and product testing providers from all over the world with a quality platform for ingredients sourcing, gaining insight into global trends, conference, activities and networking with world-class experts.

PCHi2018 Facts & Figures

Exhibitors: 544

Visitors: 21,856

Total Show Area: 32,000 SQM

More information:  http://www.pchi-china.com/en/About-PCHi/Post-show-Report/

BEAUTSYTREAMS organised a special complimentary seminar at in-cosmetics Global on Tuesday April 17, 2018 at 3:15pm as BEAUTYSTREAMS Creative Director Michael Nolte presented Spring Summer 2019 Beauty Concepts. Taking you on the path from inspirational concepts to ingredients to final products, Spring Summer 2019 is about “Crossroads,” a period of observation and cogitation amid the rapid changes in today’s world. Explore two stories from this season and how to leverage them into successful ingredients and products.

BEAUTYSTREAMS is the only trend source dedicated to the beauty industry. Specializing in strategy and innovation, our content inspires marketing, product development, and consumer insight professionals worldwide. With a team of over 200 experts on 6 continents, BEAUTYSTREAMS provides targeted insights for the following sectors:
COLOR COSMETICS / HAIR CARE & COLOR / NAILS / SKIN CARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / MEN’S GROOMING / STRATEGY & CONSUMER INSIGHT / RETAIL / PACKAGING

For more information: contact@beautystreams.com
Or visit: www.beautystreams.com

Follow us on Instagram @beautystreams_official

AUTHOR: BEAUTYSTREAMS

in-cosmetics, together with global beauty industry reference BEAUTYSTREAMS, unveiled the 2020/21 KEY BEAUTY MACRO TRENDS at the in-cosmetics Global 2018 show in Amsterdam (April 17-19). Visitors were able to stop by the Make-up Bar to scan the smart reader and receive an email with our exclusive trend and product information. Connecting consumer movements to beauty implications, look for these trends sets to influence product development in the upcoming years:
#1: REALITY ZAPPING
#2: HYPER-SEGMENTATION
#3: TRANS-CATEGORY
#4: POWERED BY NATURE

BEAUTYSTREAMS is the only trend source dedicated to the beauty industry. Specializing in strategy and innovation, our content inspires marketing, product development, and consumer insight professionals worldwide. With a team of over 200 experts on 6 continents, BEAUTYSTREAMS provides targeted insights for the following sectors:
COLOR COSMETICS / HAIR CARE & COLOR / NAILS / SKIN CARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / MEN’S GROOMING / STRATEGY & CONSUMER INSIGHT / RETAIL / PACKAGING

For more information: contact@beautystreams.com
Or visit: www.beautystreams.com

Follow us on Instagram @beautystreams_official

AUTHOR: BEAUTYSTREAMS

Colour cosmetics is the fastest growing category in Beauty and Personal Care. Although North America led the sales of colour cosmetics in 2016, Asia Pacific is set to overtake North America as the largest market in the coming years.

Watch Euromonitor as they uncover key insights in the colour cosmetics industry and discover opportunities in this fast-growing segment.

in-cosmetics Asia is the leading exhibition and conference in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok, Thailand in October/November and is focused on personal care raw materials and manufacturing – more info at http://www.asia.in-cosmetics.com

Speaker is Sunny Um, Research Analyst, Euromonitor International, more info at http://www.euromonitor.com/

At in-cosmetics Korea 2017, Sanchit Mendiratta, Partner at Happy Marketer, looked at “What Asia’s mobile-first market means for you” during the Marketing Trends & Regulations presentations.

For over 10 years, Sanchit Mendiratta has utilised his experience in digital analytics and technologies to help leading organisations drive digital excellence such as Standard Chartered, The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, National University of Singapore, Royal Brunei Airlines, and Tigerair, among others. He also shares his digital experience as a guest lecturer at the SP Jain School of Global Management, Singapore, and the Indian School of Business, Hyderabad.

In this presentation, Sanchit Mendiratta demonstrates how mobile across Asia-Pacific continues to rapidly grow and shows no sign of slowing, especially in the cosmetics industry.

This growth offers plenty of opportunities for cosmetics brands and companies to reach and engage consumers via mobile.

You’ll learn how this growth will impact the cosmetic industry in the region and how your company can capitalize on these opportunities.

More videos from Marketing Trends & Regulations at in-cosmetics Korea 2017 can be found at news.in-cosmetics.com.

Video taken at in-cosmetics Korea – the only exhibition in South Korea dedicated to personal care ingredients – 2017.  Register and learn more at korea.in-cosmetics.com.

Colour Cosmetics, the Fastest-Growing Category in Asia

As of 2016, colour cosmetics is the fastest-growing category among beauty products in Asia, registering 7% growth (current, fixed 2016 exchange rate). Despite the cooling economy in top sales markets China, Japan and South Korea, Asian consumers’ love and obsession for colour cosmetics continued to grow strong, thanks to the popularity of mass cosmetic brands in the region. Mass colour cosmetics grew strong at 8% CAGR from 2011 to 2016, eating up the market share of premium colour cosmetics, which grew by 4% CAGR for the same period. South Korean brands such as The Face Shop, Etude House and Innisfree fuelled the mass cosmetics boom by fulfilling Asian consumers’ need for self-indulgence and affordability through creative brand storytelling, eye-catching packaging, diverse product range and low price points.

India and China has been growing outstandingly from 2011 to 2016 at 21% CAGR and 11% CAGR respectively, boosted by its sheer size of consumer base and long-standing passion for make-up and beautification. Foundation/concealer contributed almost 60% of total colour cosmetics value sales in Asia, a proof that enhancing the skin complexion is the most fundamental make-up interest among Asian consumers. In the meantime, BB/CC cream registered the fastest growth at 25% CAGR for the past five years, riding on the K-beauty boom and its convenient compact-case packaging which provides an ease of use on-the-go and at home. In addition, BB cream is formulated with sunblock and hydrating serum elements by default, hence helps consumers skip a couple of steps in morning skin care regimen, which caters to busy urban consumers’ need for time-saving.

Megatrends: Ageing Consumers & Health Alignment

Developed markets in Asia such as Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong and Taiwan have already entered the “ageing societies” stage, whereby the over 40s population is bigger than younger age groups. This trend, derived from declining birth rate, increasing late marriages and stagnant local economy, led to the aged populations’ burning desire for maintaining “youth” and leading a healthy, glamorous life. In fact, the average gross income of Asian consumers aged 45 and above is over US$7,000 monthly, which translates to a significant purchase power. According to Euromonitor International’s 2016 Beauty Survey on the frequency of cosmetics use, women at age 45-59 showed a very similar frequency as women at age 15-44, which tells us women’s interest and efforts for make-up doesn’t fade away despite ageing. Global cosmetic brand Mac was quick to catch this trend and launched marketing campaigns by hiring Iris Apfel, an American fashion icon in her 90s, and Caitlyn Jenner, a transgender celebrity in her 60s as the brand ambassadors to stay relevant to wider age groups, beyond its usual young customers.

Consumers’ eagerness to maintain “youth” is also leading to the rise of hybrid cosmetics. Skincare-infused make-up products are increasingly available in the retail scene, catering to the sophisticated and educated consumers’ desire to enhance their skin even with their make-up on. Cosmetics formulated with anti-ageing, hydrating and hypoallergenic elements are now in the market, such as Studio 10 Hydralift Corrector, a concealer containing skin-perfecting ingredients like hydraulic acid, VMN Hypoallergenics lip products made without irritating waxes and parabens, Mary Kay’s mineral eye colour which contains vitamins to fight against wrinkle-causing free radicals, and so forth.

Outlook by 2021

By 2021, colour cosmetics in Asia is expected to maintain its healthy growth at 5% CAGR, reaching US$22bn. Asia is projected to be growing the fastest, surpassing the current growth leaders Middle East and Latin America, as these two regions are experiencing political and economic turmoil while the beauty consumption in massive developing markets such as China and India will continue to grow strong at 9% CAGR by 2021.

Global beauty companies’ localization efforts, by establishing R&D centers in the region to study the local make-up traditions and habits, will also expose Asian consumers to a wider variety of product options in the long run. Manufacturers’ increasing jump into halal-certified cosmetics sector will expand the Asia’s colour cosmetics market even further, capturing the untapped Muslim consumers which is over 1 billion population in Asia. The strong demand and growth potential of halal beauty products in Asia is already proven, through the explosive success of the Indonesian halal-certified mass beauty brand Wardah, as well as the halal R&D investment by international beauty giants such as Loreal who already established its halal-certified production plant in Indonesia.

Special effects are taking centre stage when it comes to the lip category… but for daytime wear convenience is king

A matte lip in a bold or nude shade has been a staple ‘look’ for online make-up aficionados for the past few years. However, while brands such as Burberry (Liquid Lip Velvet) and Rimmel London (Stay Matte Liquid Lip Colour) are still investing in this eminently wearable trend, recent launch activity suggests the industry is having a bit more fun in the lip category with special effects coming to the fore.

Metallic and iridescent products, for example, are popping up on shelves, especially among mass-market labels. Barry M offers Matte Me Up Metallic Lip Kits, featuring paint and liner, in pink, berry and gold shades, while Sleek MakeUP launched Matte Me Metallic Lip Creams in three shades for a foil-like finish, unveiled as part of its iridescent Distorted Dreams collection.

Smashbox offers a subtler take on the metallic theme with the Be Legendary Liquid Metals and Pigment lip lacquer collection; the liquid lip gel is said to deliver rich, high-gloss colour while evenly dispersed pigments reflect light, creating a 3D, optically plump pout. Lime Crime and Ciaté likewise offer a theatrical twist to lips. The former has Diamond Crushers toppers in its line-up in a range of iridescent shades, claimed to make wearers lips “sparkle like a fairy on acid” when layered on top of a coloured lip product.

Ciaté’s newly launched Glitter Flip, on the other hand, is a range of glitter liquid lipsticks that switch effect on their own. According to the brand, when lips are pressed together they are transformed from a metallic matte liquid lipstick into a multi-dimensional glitter lip.

Indeed, ‘changing’ lip products are coming to the fore, including ones that switch hue once on the lips. Lipstick Queen recently added a new colour to its colour changing collection – Mornin’ Sunshine – a yellow bullet, which becomes a coral tone upon application, while the new Prism collection from value fashion retailer Primark also features colour changing lipsticks.

Looking at other trending effects, Smashbox is clearly banking on the Asian vogue for two-tone lips taking off in the West as it launched the Be Legendary Triple Tone Lipstick collection, which instantly adds an ombré effect to the lips.

This fashion for graded colour has also seen the rise of lip powders in France, with recent powder products from the likes of Dior (Le Rouge Gradient) and Tom Ford (Shade and Illuminate Lips) in prestige, and Artdeco (Hypnotic Blossom Matte Lip Powder) in mass.

And for maximum ‘wow’, 3INA launched Fluoro Lipgloss shades as part of its recent UV Collection, which doubtless will have adorned many a lip in festival dance tents this summer.

But it wasn’t all about impactful, Instagrammable lips… on a day-to-day basis convenience is king, and plenty of new lip products honoured women’s need to apply a single, portable product quickly and easily.

Hourglass Cosmetics’ GIRL Lip Stylo offers a fusion of lip balm, liner and lipstick in 20 shades and Stila recently introduced Color Balm Lipstick, formulated with plant-based emollients and peppermint oils to deliver the full pigment of a lipstick with the nourishment of a balm.

Also meeting consumer demand for multitaskers, Max Factor launched Colour Elixir Honey Lacquer, a three-in-one lacquer that offers the intense colour of a lipstick, the shine of a gloss and the soft feel of a balm.

Benefit, meanwhile, came up with the ultimate lip ‘life hack’ when it debuted they’re Real! Double The Lip, a liner and lipstick in one, which defines the lip line and fills in the lips with a complementing colour in a single gesture.

For those customers bold enough to embrace metallic, ombré or day-glo lips, our industry is providing ample options. However, underpinning changing trends for colours, effects and formulations is the need for quick, fuss-free application. As such, multitasking lip colour will never go out of fashion.

Julia Wray is Editor of SPC magazine

Euromonitor International, will discuss more on colour cosmetics in a session ‘Identifying opportunities in colour cosmetics in Asia Pacific’ at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok on Tuesday 31 October at 2pm.

Spring Summer 2018 emerges with A New Grammar, which challenges and rethinks standard classifications.

Why the change?

There is a mood of discontent and unrest in the air. We are in a period of shifting powers. Even as globalism and technology are bringing us closer together, there is a fresh backlash of protectionism, nationalism, and racism. Modern life is whirling at an accelerated speed. For some, this breeds fear and exclusion, while others embrace connectivity to the contemporary world. We face the season with a new perspective, ready to accept and redefine lifestyle shifts in a new grammar. Grammar is the basic building block for language, a system for structuring communications.

This is reflected in an audacious color palette this season, tailored to all moods and tastes, reflecting these polarizing times.
From the cool glamour of an 80’s inspired palette of dark purples, magentas and red, to the uplifting warmth of Spiritual Oranges, girlish Kawaii Brights, and cool Air & Sea hues. As for neutrals, they’re anything but boring. Picking up on the genderless attitude in the air, Urban Camo takes a khaki direction as muted browns and grays convey an edgy sobriety. It’s a season of bold statements – a questioning and reshaping of the basic fundamentals for our today’s new world.

 To discover more trends, join us at in-cosmetics Latin America, booth C53.

Read our 60 second interview with ANGUS Chemical Company and find out what they will showcasing at in-cosmetics Global in London this year and what they think will be the next biggest trend in the cosmetics industry…

1) What will you be showcasing at in-cosmetics^® Global this year?

ANGUS Chemical Company will be highlighting the multifunctional benefits of our ULTRA PC portfolio of amino alcohols in several new and exciting VersaSTYLE personal care formulation prototypes. These formulation prototypes were developed by the ANGUS Personal Care application team in Paris, and utilize our proprietary AMP-ULTRA PC, AMPD ULTRA PC and TRIS AMINO ULTRA PC neutralizers. ANGUS’ globally compliant neutralizers optimize performance for a broad array of personal care and cosmetics applications, including:

• Hair care and styling – Excellent for hair gels, sprays and dyes, as superior alkalinizing agents, and are compatible with most fixative resins
• Color Cosmetics – Ideal for mascara, lipsticks and powders, plus perform great in hypoallergenic formulations
• Skin care – Preferred in wide array of skin care and eye care products, are ideal buffers and solubilizers, and have superior mildness for hypoallergenic formulations

2) What are you most looking forward to at in-cosmetics Global 2017?

The in-cosmetics Global event gives us the opportunity to educate the market on the performance benefits of incorporating our globally-compliant neutralizers into their product formulations. Our chemistries show better pH buffering properties and alcohol compatibility when compared to inorganic bases, and also demonstrate excellent color stability with low odor levels. In addition, ANGUS ULTRA PC-grade products offer universal cosmetic acceptability and are compliant with the most recent Cosmetics Directives on secondary amine and nitrosamine content of raw materials used in the manufacture of cosmetics and personal care products.

3) What are the greatest challenges currently facing the cosmetic industry?

The constant challenge for the cosmetics industry is meeting ever-changing consumer trends. Another notable challenge we see is that as demand for cosmetics keeps growing, especially in the Asia and Latin American markets, brand owners are faced with introducing new products to meet geographically distinct beauty identities and trends for both men and women. For example, hair products specific for Brazil, or color cosmetics and skin treatments specific for China. That’s why ANGUS has made significant investments in building out our capabilities and expertise in five regional Customer Application Centers (CAC) around the world. These centers bring technology and formulation expertise to a local level to provide the best solution for customers.

4) What do you believe will be the next big trend to gain traction?

Brand owners are increasingly looking for ingredients suppliers like ANGUS to better support their commitment to developing new formulations that meet the market trends and demands in regional markets. ANGUS recently reaffirmed our commitment to European customers by bringing together world-class technical services and regulatory expertise in a new Customer Application Center in Paris. Local and regional customers will be able to work side-by-side with ANGUS to expedite innovation that will bring new and exciting products to market. Whether it’s helping formulate away from traditional caustic or TEA systems with our gentle TRIS AMINO neutralizers, or providing full transparency in our fully integrated supply chain all the way back to raw materials, we are well-positioned to support our customers’ goals.

Matthieu Perdon, Regional Marketing Manager, Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA), ANGUS Chemical Company