The skin care category is one of the most interesting in cosmetics and it is also one of my great passions. According to the Researchandmarkets portal, the global market for anti-aging products had an estimated value of US$164 billion in 2020 and has a projection of US$236 billion by 2027 with a CAGR of 5.3% in this period.

Within the category, anti-wrinkle products present an estimated CAGR of 5.7% in the same period with an estimated market value of US$19.1 billion by 2027. Depigmenting products have a projected CAGR of 4.1% for the next 7 years. The skin care market has always represented a great innovation opportunity for the cosmetics industry and if we talk about trends in the category, we could write many pages and columns about it.

For this reason, below, we are going to see some of the most interesting current trends in this field and in the coming months we will do more columns about it.

Robotic skin: In June we learned about this very interesting new. A team of researchers in Japan used human skin to encase a robot’s finger. The goal is for the robots to have an increasingly human appearance and thus improve the efficiency in the exchange of information and generate more sympathy. The findings were surprising.

The living skin fit the artificial limb perfectly, and like real wounds, it had the ability to bounce back from a cut. Last year it was reported that Sophia, the world’s most famous humanoid robot, auctioned off her first digital artwork as an NFT. “I hope that people like my work and that humans and I can collaborate in new and exciting ways forward,” Sophia said in her study with a flat voice and a silver-coloured dress.

Let’s just imagine when we will see the news that for the first time a robot designed a perfume or a cosmetic emulsion. In the near future, humanoids will be key to the development of skin care, they will help us discover and develop new sensory effects in formulations, they will also be very useful in predicting efficacy and developing new claims, such as robot- friendly, tested on robots, formulated by robots…

In marketing and positioning activities we will also see androids, cyborgs and robots in skin care. Just imagine R2-D2 developing products for Princess Leia. Bender, Astroboy, Terminator, Robocop, Johnny 5, Cylos, Data and Marvin, among others, will be great allies in brand positioning and advertising campaigns. Surely George Lucas will have a great ally in skin care in future films. Robotic beauty is the new black.

Healthy aging: In a recent article, the Colombian magazine Semana, indicated that with the aim of improving the quality of life of older adults and of the people who intervene in their environment, such as family members and caregivers, the Decade of Healthy Aging has been established, which began in 2021 and will continue until 2030. Aging is a natural process that the body goes through and that everyone lives in a different way, depending on their lifestyle, diet, particular health condition and the contexts in which persons have been throughout their life. Cosmetics is a great ally in well-being and that is why this year we are seeing so many related innovations.

From Benjamin Button to a new anti-aging theory: We were all moved by the film The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, which tells the story of a man who would be born with the body of an 80-year-old person and who over time becomes younger. Well, in June of this year, very interesting news were published, as a group of scientists managed to reverse aging in mice. Researchers at the molecular laboratory at Harvard University have succeeded in converting an adult cell into a stem cell in rodents. The team’s goal is to do the same with humans. This project has been led by David Sinclair. In a 2020 publication it was shown how old mice with poor eyesight and damaged retinas were suddenly able to see again. For this reason, we will soon see new Benjamin Button-like biochemical mechanisms for skin care in scientific publications, magazines and congresses.

Lunar agriculture: “It’s a small pot of earth, but a big step for space agriculture.” This interesting finding was published in May in the journal Communications Biology. For the first time, scientists have grown plants in a few grams of lunar soil collected decades ago by astronauts in the Apollo program. The plant used was Arabidopsis thaliana, chosen because it grows easily and, above all, because its genetic code is already known. This finding fuels the hope that one day plants can be grown directly on the moon. The cosmetic industry will find a great opportunity for innovation in these new findings, since the composition of lunar soil can produce interesting adaptogenic conditions for the search and synthesis of new metabolites with great benefits for skin care.

130 years: In May 2022, the Spanish newspaper El País published an article in which Corina Amor, an immunologist, says: “Increasing the duration of human life to 130 years is reasonable.” She presented a revolutionary doctoral thesis that proposed an experimental therapy to eliminate the cells responsible for aging and cancer. In youth, the human body’s defences are capable of destroying these damaged cells, called senescent cells, but as life goes on, the immune system cannot cope and they accumulate. Amor’s team, led by American biologist Scott Lowe, devised a strategy to extract white blood cells, or T-lymphocytes, from the patient and reengineer them in the laboratory to destroy senescent cells. His proof of concept, in mice, was published two years ago in the journal Nature. In a few years, we will see new biochemical mechanisms in skin care products inspired by these findings.

Pre-ageing: The pandemic has taught us that prevention is the new norm and that is why many of the technological innovations that we are seeing in skin care are focused on the concept of preventing the signs of aging and the effects on the skin of new routines and customs we have in the post-pandemic world. Pre-aging (2021) comes after the pro-aging (2017) and anti-aging (80s) trends.

 Skinimalism: This trend has two nuances. In the first place, we are seeing how facial routines tend to be simpler and, on the other hand, we are also seeing how formulations are also beginning to have fewer and more effective ingredients.

Are you ready to imagine the future of skincare? Well, we invite you to give your comments on this exciting topic!

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Did you know that among busy lactating mothers and menopausal women there is an incredible bond of similar hair, face, and body skin concerns? It is the unspoken sisterhood of post-partum and post-menopausal women! And – the potential for new product development in these areas is exponential!

These groupings of women can relate to each other’s struggles and are seeking solutions to their common nettlesome matters. You may be surprised to learn that many of these shared concerns are not limited to just the face. A lot of similarities go on “down below” too!

Part of the changes are due to hormonal adjustments through the body and part are due to the life changing situation itself. Either way, below are a few interesting facts that the beauty industry can tune into and provide products to address these shared hormonal needs.

Cha-cha-cha-changes!

For women, pregnancy, and menopause can put their skin through the wringer. These hormonal changes affect collagen production which is essential for skin plumpness and elasticity. Pigment changes can make the face and parts of the body darker in colour. And a confused skin bouncing between being very dry and parched in some areas, then suddenly oily and acne flared overnight can be daunting.

Add hair changes and other body part concerns to the mix and one ends up a with a massive list of confusion on where and what to address first.

First, let’s start with similar skin conditions of the face that both post-partum and post-menopause can bring on:

• Dryness, flakiness, and itching
• Hyperpigmentation
• Acne breakouts

Second, the skin on the body has similar concerns as listed above and additional concerns as listed below:

• Connective tissue loss
• Loss of elasticity
• Loss of firmness

Third, hair changes:

• Post pregnancy can cause hair loss or a change of hair texture. For example, naturally curly hair can go straight in sections of the head and vice versa.
• Post menopause can cause hair loss as well, particularly on the top and crown of the head.

Fourth, down below (vulva/vaginal) experiences similar changes too. Did you know that women suffer from the same vaginal dryness during stages of breastfeeding as postmenopausal women? These symptoms are related to oestrogen levels. The lack of oestrogen in women’s bodies after menopause and during breastfeeding can provoke vaginal dryness. For menopausal women, this dryness is generally identified as “atrophic vaginitis.”

• Vaginal dryness is a common side effect of nursing and it is completely normal.
• Vulva dryness, burning, itching, soreness, and pain may be experienced in both life stages.
• Women who experience atrophic changes post menopause may experience symptoms including vaginal dryness and irritation, as well as increased susceptibility to vulvovaginal trauma, vulval dermatitis, and lichen sclerosis.

Where are her purchasing interests?

According to Business Wire  the global postpartum products market size is expected to reach USD 3.44 billion by 2028 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 6.4% from 2021 to 2028. However, these products include items outside of formulated personal care applications. At this writing, there is limited market research that breaks down the personal care products she’d like to purchase. Mom and baby brands do exist, however, a deep dive into her more personal needs would be helpful.

Concerning postmenopausal women, The Benchmarking Company surveyed 2,023 U.S. women about their menopausal changes; how they’re seeking relief, which beauty brands are speaking their language by offering products that work for them, and what they want next from brands.

Below are excerpts from their research:

The Role of the Raw Material Supplier

What can suppliers do to help companies develop formulas that keep skin in optimum shape as women transition through these life stages?

1. Research the physiological changes that both demographics experience during these changes. As an industry, and even in the medical field, there is limited research to the specific needs of the body changes as they relate to personal care items that women desire. This is a perfect white space for further exploration!

   There are common skin concerns that happen in the post-partum and post-menopausal stages of life. It is important to know how women’s bodies function and what is normal, as well as what is not, in order to live as healthy a life as possible.

   Note: Not all treatments are created equal. As in all cases, it is important to consult with a dermatologist about skin concerns. Suppliers aligning with dermatologists and obstetrician/gynaecologist or menopause specialists collaboratively can be a new frontier for our industry!

2. Introduce raw materials for manufacturers and beauty product companies to incorporate technologies and ingredients into formulas to address the changes happening to their customer’s skin. It is a fantastic way to support women of all ages.
   
   
3. Educate your customer. Suppliers can help clients design formulas to keep skin in optimum shape as they plough through these stages of life. Be ready for these big life transitions with advice and products that clients can understand and trust.

Need help on where to extend your mom-care or menopausal care brand?

Mothers and post-menopausal women want results for their changing skin. Building awareness and embracing opportunities in these fast-growing markets for personal care products for postpartum or postmenopausal women is essential.

BeautyEdge LLC can help ensure your product and marketing strategies align with the latest research. Partner with BeautyEdge, we can help you identify and capitalize on the growth potential of this market segment today!

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

Compromised skin and related care ingredients topped Cosmetics & Toiletries’ trending key search terms in 2021. This underscores a major area of interest for product developers—who, in turn, are responding to consumer needs. Example searches ranged from ingredients for milder cleansers, e.g., laureth-4, cocamidopropyl betaine and lauric acid, to hydrating materials such as pentylene glycol and glycerin.

Searches relevant to skin defence also climbed, e.g., skin detox, pollution and the microbiome, alongside those for skin repair and restoration: butters and oils, avocado, sunflower, moringa, cannabis, collagen, shea, humectant, hyaluronic acid, retinol, peptide, arnica, ceramides…

This validates the shift our industry has felt in recent years. Fortune Business Insights projects the larger skin care market will climb from $100.13 billion in 2021 to $145.82 billion in 2028 (a CAGR of 5.52%),1 attributing this rise to a market return to pre-pandemic levels as well as demand for creams, lotions and powders that nourish and improve the quality and health of the skin. [1]

Dermocosmetics, in particular, Prescient and Strategic Intelligence reports, were valued at $57.0 billion in 2020 and are projected to grow at a CAGR of 7.3% during 2020-2030. The source points to surging purchasing power of consumers as one driver, as well as an increased inclination toward spending on appearance, the increasing prevalence of skin diseases, and even the rising number of dermocosmetic conferences. [2]

In relation, iHealthcare Analyst, Inc.,3 reports the global market for dermatology products, both diagnostic and therapeutic, is expected to attain $27.8 billion by 2027, growing at a steady CAGR of 3.1% from 2021. This rise will be driven by the increasing incidence of acute and chronic skin disorders and higher skin and subcutaneous diseases worldwide. More specifically, according to the firm, chronic and acute skin diseases such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, squamous cell carcinoma, eczema, dermatitis and pruritus are reported as major health concerns worldwide and account for a large portion of health care associated financial burden. These conditions affect between 30% and 70% of individuals globally, with even higher rates in at-risk subpopulations. [3]

In early January 2021, Larissa Jensen of NPD noted that 2020 sales of natural skin care were, for the first time, eclipsed by clinical skin care, which has “now become the largest brand type in skin care.”4 In the same article, Lisa Holmes of Euromonitor stated that “just as demand for clean and safe skin care formulations has risen, so have preferences for medically backed and clinically proven brands, which are deeply rooted in efficacy and science-backed results.”[4]

These market indicators point a new beauty consumer who is using skin care for medicinal purposes. Indeed, a story on Medline [5] observed that consumer skin care trends could impact clinical skin care treatments—the U.S. pharmacy retailer CVS reported a few years ago that 70% of its pharmacists are asked about skin care every day. Clearly, there are limitations on what a “cosmetic” product can claim (or do) but consumers are taking us into Terra nullius (unclaimed territory). We’ll need to watch our step.

References

1. https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/skin-care-market-102544
2. https://www.psmarketresearch.com/market-analysis/dermacosmetics-market
3. https://www.ihealthcareanalyst.com/dermatology-diagnostics-therapeutics-market-2020-rising-acute-chronic-skin-disorders/
4. https://www.gcimagazine.com/business/rd/ingredients/Skin-Care-2021-573877411.html
5. https://www.medline.com/strategies/skin-health/consumer-skin-care-trends-influence-patients-skin-care/

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter! https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/subscribe-to-in-cosmetics-connect/The post ‘Medicinal’ skincare first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/medicinal-skin-care-written-by-rachel-l-grabenhofer-managing-scientific-editor-cosmetics-toiletries/feed/ 0 17033 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/skincare/can-premium-natural-skincare-compete-with-conventional-skincare/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/skincare/can-premium-natural-skincare-compete-with-conventional-skincare/#respond Mon, 10 Sep 2018 12:25:09 +0000 http://new-incos-news.bitnamiapp.com/?p=6143 By Stacey Fraser, Nature’s Blueprint Consultancy Services   In a word, yes. I’ve been working in the natural skincare world for over 15 years and in that time, we have gone from a small range of “natural” ingredients to some of the most, high end, sophisticated functional and efficacy proven actives available.  It is an […]

Evolution of K-Beauty

Korean consumers enjoy novelty and seeking out new products for better benefits and results. According to Mintel, consumers in their 20s and 30s are the most vibrant group who adopt and spread new trends while actively engaging with brands.

The Korean beauty routine is famous for its many and elaborate steps based around adding multiple layers for perfect dewy-looking skin. “Chok chok” is the term used to describe a radiant glowing complexion that is the goal of Korean consumers, especially those in their teens and 20s. Like all Korean inventions, it is changing and becoming multi-faceted. “In addition to dewy skin, consumers pay attention to a healthy skin barrier as well as good oil and water balance in the skin, which gives a glow from within,” comments Sharon Kwek, senior innovation and insights analyst (beauty & personal care), Mintel, who notes that consumers increasingly think that their skin has become more sensitive and look for safe and simple solutions in skincare.

Mintel identifies the most recent K-Beauty skincare trends:

• Oil serums: these serum-like facial oils have a watery and lightweight texture and absorb quickly while locking in moisture without leaving a sticky residue. Used instead of serums, they come in varying formats, such as on-the-go mists, or mixed into foundation to increase natural glow. An example is Laneige Water Bank Double Layering Oil.
• Tone up creams: Mintel introduced this concept with physical examples at in-cosmetics Global London, 2017. Tone up creams give an instant whitening effect on the skin and are popular with young Korean and Chinese consumers. Used to give a “no make-up” look, the current launches have pink hues to brighten the complexion, such as A’Pieu Baby Tone Up Cream.
• Cica Creams: These products use centella asiatica, a medicinal herb used in treating and healing wounds. The soothing and moisturizing gel-type balm is good for sensitive skin, such as Innisfree Bija Cica Balm.
• Peeling pads: Gentle exfoliation is an integral part of Korean’s regular skincare routine and products such as serums and toners include gentle exfoliating ingredients like AHA, BHA and PHA. Apart from serums and toners, pad formats are becoming more popular, such as BRTC Multi-Vital Peeling Pad.

Focus on Japanese beauty

Japan has suffered from an economic downturn, aging population and market saturation causing the beauty market to stagnate. Yet, Japan is the most developed and advanced beauty market in Asia with a steady stream of innovation coming from Japanese companies. Areas that global beauty companies should keep a close watch on include senior beauty, time saving products and protection beauty.

However, Japanese beauty has been outshone by K-beauty and pushed out of the spotlight by the never-ending stream of new textures, formats and packaging concepts emanating from the hyperactive Korean beauty industry. “That’s unfair, because anyone lucky enough to go to beauty stores in Japan are wowed by highly effective innovative skincare, haircare and colour cosmetics,” argues Vivienne Rudd, director of global innovation and insight, beauty & personal care, Mintel. She has noted the emergence of J-beauty, calling it “a confident, expressive form of beauty that blends technical expertise, traditional ingredients with a sense of fun and experimentation.” She adds: “If I’m looking for cleansing products, and, above all, haircare products that offer something new and interesting, Japan is where I look first.”

For many years, Japan has been going through extensive segmentation, so is more fragmented than any other beauty market, including South Korea. “Japanese consumers have sophisticated attitudes towards beauty, but they tend to stick to the products they are satisfied with or that have been popular for a while,” comments Jane Jang, senior beauty analyst, Mintel. Japanese consumers are therefore less likely to jump on every new trend and it takes them time to try and adopt new product formats.

Japanese beauty brands are therefore more circumspect in their launch programmes as they are not under the same pressure to churn out new products at highly competitive price points, points out Rudd. However, this is not to say that Japan does not innovate: probiotic skincare first started in Japan and Yakult, best known for its probiotic drinks, has been selling prestige probiotic facial skincare for years. Other ground-breaking beauty innovations that started in Japan include hair treatments with camellia oils, and make-up for women in their 50s and 60s from Kanebo’s Chicca and Shiseido’s Prior.

Japanese skincare routines have been changing from the lengthy ones in the past towards shorter, more focused regimes comprising only the essential steps with multi-functional benefits. Jang describes the average evening routine, which includes double cleansing (make-up remover and face wash), toner (called lotion in Japan), serum and moisturizer, with the addition of a sheet mask once or twice a week. “New extreme all-in-one products help create a very simple routine of cleansing and moisturizing,” she says, citing Senka Perfect Gel Night, combining lotion, emulsion, serum, cream and pack in one.

Beyond Korea and Japan

Korea and Japan are by no means the only Asian countries making waves in beauty. Thailand has a vibrant beauty business with local brands that meet the demands of its consumers. These include the leading cosmetic brand Mistine, which is heavily marketed; Namu Life, best known for its snail white cream and Gla Nature, made from Asian herbs and essential oils.

My Beauty Diary masks are huge in Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia, among others, where there is a strong culture of local brands. For example, in Taiwan, celebrities, bloggers and dermatologists create their own lines in partnership with locally manufactured brands.

Mintel presented at the Marketing Trends presentations at in-cosmetics Global, 17-19 April 2018.
For more Martketing Trends presentations, visit in-cosmetics Global

Fuelling China’s significant growth within the BPC market comes mostly down to sales of skincare products, but it’s the sale of colour cosmetics that presents itself as the most dynamic personal care category regarding value in 2017. Driving the demand for cosmetics with a visually more vibrant hue, it seems, is China’s younger generation, particularly woman born in the 1980s and 1990s. This more colourful demographic, it is thought, tends to pay more attention to their outer appearance, and therefore tend to consume more colour cosmetics. Image consciousness may seem like an obvious attribution to the boost in personal care products, but what may come as a surprise is the idea that the adoption of new technologies, such as AR (Augmented Reality), is also considered to have boosted BPC sales, in particular, colour beauty products.

If China’s year on year growth wasn’t enough to entice substantial global investment, its gross margin in the beauty and personal care industry might. According to a local consultancy, Insight & Info, the average gross margin of brand companies in the Chinese beauty and personal care industry is 60%-80%, meaning this booming market will undoubtedly create enormous demand and boundless opportunities for personal care ingredient suppliers the world over.

PCHi Show

The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show is China’s leading Sourcing Platform for the Global Personal Care Industry. As an innovation-led event, PCHi provides cosmetics, home and personal care manufacturers, ingredients suppliers, cosmetics packaging, machinery and product testing providers from all over the world with a quality platform for ingredients sourcing, gaining insight into global trends, conference, activities and networking with world-class experts.

PCHi2018 Facts & Figures

Exhibitors: 544

Visitors: 21,856

Total Show Area: 32,000 SQM

More information:  http://www.pchi-china.com/en/About-PCHi/Post-show-Report/The post Skincare and Colour Cosmetics: the gateway to China’s booming beauty and personal care market first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/gateway-to-the-booming-us75-billion-chinese-beauty-and-personal-care-market/feed/ 0 5737 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/skincare/spotlight-on-facial-masks-video/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/skincare/spotlight-on-facial-masks-video/#respond Mon, 30 Apr 2018 09:54:42 +0000 http://new-incos-news.bitnamiapp.com/?p=5647 The multitude of facial masks in the market today is massive and shows no signs of slowing down. As manufacturers continue to innovate, the market is expected to grow even further. Facial masks in any form have become an integral part of consumers’ regular skincare routines because of its ability to offer consumers different skincare […]

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