Cosmetics are broadly defined as products to visibly improve or protect the skin, so when it comes to using the term ‘preventative skincare’, it should not be taken lightly.

Yet there are some types of cosmetics that can be considered preventative, or at least, able to combat damage effectively. Let’s take a closer look at what they are, their key ingredients, and how they can support a claim of preventative skincare.

1. Sunscreen formulas

Undoubtedly, the number one preventative skincare product has to be sunscreen. Using sunscreen regularly can help prevent all types of skin damage, from drying out and burning, through to premature ageing and skin cancer.

Sunscreens are treated differently to standard skincare products when it comes to regulations; in some regions of the world they are considered drugs (USA and Canada) or therapeutic (Australia), while in the EU they are considered cosmetics but additional directions and claims can be made with the intention to protect the consumer and provide preventative skincare.

When formulating sunscreens, there are 3 key things you need to remember to get started:

1. you will need to use appropriate UV filters to obtain broad spectrum protection. This means using both UVA and UVB filters – the UVA filters must provide at least one third of the stated SPF claim.

2. check regulatory limits of sunscreen filters specific to the country that you are formulating for; this means you will generally need to use a combination of UV filters to achieve the desired broad spectrum and UVA:UVB performance.

3. depending on how much oil soluble UV filters are used, you may need to formulate a water in oil emulsion to ensure suitable stability and spreading, which contributes to achieving the best SPF rating and performance.

Watch tips on how to formulate SPF50+ sunscreen formulas.

2. Botox like peptides

Another preventative type of cosmetic formula is one that can help reduce expression-induced muscular contractions that would normally contribute to wrinkles. One of the most effective class of cosmetic ingredients that can provide this functionality is peptides with a botox-like activity. Learn more about peptides, proteins and collagen in cosmetic formulas here.

Peptides with this activity tend to mimic the peptides which are normally produced by the body to prohibit muscular contractions. By providing these mimics, the cosmetic product can help reduce the number and depth of these expression lines, and thereby ‘prevent’ the formation of deep wrinkles.

Delivery is especially important with these botox-like peptides – they are extremely small but need to travel a comparably huge distance through the epidermis. Watch our video on cosmetic absorption by the skin to see how difficult this delivery can be; and then watch how to increase cosmetic penetration to the required delivery sites.

3. Whitening and brightening actives

There are a lot of complexion brightening actives available, ranging from vitamin B3 and C through to a multitude of plant extracts and even certain types of peptides. Speak with your suppliers to see what options they can provide.

While sunscreen can help prevent the entire melanin production reaction from happening, brightening actives can be considered a type of ‘preventative’ skincare ingredients because they use one or more pathways to inhibit, or prevent, the activity of melanocytes such as:

1. neutralizing reactive oxidants

2. inhibit tyrosinase activity

3. inhibit melanocyte dendricity and/or

4. block the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes

4. Antioxidants

Antioxidants can be considered preventative skincare because they quench free radicals before they are able to cause damage to our skin. Some of the key antioxidants you should be incorporating into your formulas for this preventative effect include:

• Mixed tocopherols – undoubtedly one of the most widely used and known antioxidants found in a vast range of cosmetic formulas to not only protect the formula from oxidative changes, but also the skin. Just remember, when formulating, the acetate form will protect the skin but not the formula, so if you need to improve the stability of your cosmetic formula with anti-oxidant protection, always use the pure tocopherol form.

• Vitamin C – another widely known antioxidant, it can also brighten the skin. Vitamin C can be a lot trickier to formulate with, given its many incompatibilities (depending on the specific form used) and its relatively low shelf life. Make sure you formulate with vitamin C carefully to get the desired results, watch this video for tips.

• Ferulic acid is another antioxidant with brightening skin benefits and is especially useful in after-sun products.

• Resveratrol, ectoin and a host of other antioxidant herbal extracts – speak with your suppliers for materials with potent antioxidant activity for the skin.

Just remember: antioxidants that help stop free-radical damage in the skin don’t necessarily have any antioxidant activity to help lengthen the shelf life of your cosmetic formula. Only a few materials such as mixed tocopherols, alpha-tocopherol and resin-like rosemary extract can provide formula specific benefits.

5. Humectants and barrier protection

Humectants are the unsung hero of a cosmetic formulation; they provide suppleness and hydration to the skin without greasiness and can give an instant plumping and smoothing effect on application.

Barrier protection from ordinary lipids or specific film formers can also help hold water in the skin by significantly lowering and in some cases, almost preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The combined effect of humectants with barrier protection helps keep moisture in the skin, an essential element to keep it healthy and looking great.

Preventative skincare is not a marketing term that can be bandied about; but when promoting sunscreens, botox like activity, whitening, antioxidant and TEWL protection, it is definitely a claim you can imply with caution.

These types of cosmetic products, and the ingredients used in their formulation, are the best defence against undesirable cosmetic effects, and even skin damage, for what is the closest thing we can consider as preventative skincare.

Remember to speak with your suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to formulate ‘preventative skincare’ with confidence.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Men in South Korea spend more on skincare per person than men anywhere else in the world.*

Male skincare in South Korea

South Korea is the world’s 10^th largest beauty market*, whilst men in South Korea spend more on skincare per person than their peers anywhere else in the world**. Driven by cultural norms and societal expectations, the segment is also boosted by the phenomenal marketing creativity of Korean brands.

Let’s find out more…

Culture and society

Confucian values associate a well-groomed appearance with professionalism but also success and respect. In South Korea, men’s skincare is normalised and men are indeed encouraged to adopt comprehensive skincare routines from hydration to gentle exfoliation and double cleansing.

With the influence of K-pop idols, actors, as well as influencers, projecting a flawless, youthful aesthetic male skincare is a must. Celebrities in South Korea, from Song Hye Kyo, a notable ambassador for Laneige and Sulwhasoo and Park Seo Joon, who is known for promoting brands like TIRTIR regularly endorse skincare and makeup products, making it socially acceptable for men.

Market and Industry Innovations

As a global leader in the skincare industry, South Korea is known for its advanced research and development and continuously innovates with progressive formulations, multi-functional products, and high-performance ingredients tailored to diverse skin concerns. According to Euromonitor International, the top five skincare concerns for men in South Korea are blemishes/ acne prone, followed by wrinkles, fine lines, acne pits and finally, blackheads.

From oil-controlling moisturizers to brightening serums, and lightweight sunscreens that suit male skin, which is generally thicker and more prone to excess sebum production, brands in Korea cater specifically to men by offering gender-targeted solutions.

The plethora of specialized products, combined with powerful marketing campaigns has powered sales of skincare among South Korean men. In fact, as the world’s foremost consumers per-capita of skincare products, Korean men spend four times more than Denmark, which is in second-place, according to Euromonitor International.

A daily skincare routine

Around the world, male skincare routines are often minimal. But in South Korea, men typically follow multi-step regimens. The routine incorporates cleansers, toners, serums, essences, moisturizers, and sunscreens. Sheet masks and anti-ageing treatments are also in regular use. Interestingly, these routines are instilled from a young age, which means that skincare is perceived as a necessary part of daily life rather than an occasional luxury.

The impact of technology and retail experience

E-commerce as well as tech-driven beauty solutions have also played a major part in Korean men’s increased spending on skincare. From AI-driven skin analysis to personalized skincare recommendations, and virtual consultations, men are offered tailored solutions for their skin concerns. Plus, South Korea’s vibrant retail environment enhances the skincare shopping experience. From immersive store layouts to free samples, and in-store skin assessments, skincare is both engaging and accessible to all.

Conclusion

Driven by necessity, K-beauty’s societal impact and aspiration, South Korea has successfully integrated skincare into daily life for men. For personal care creators, this market provides   invaluable insights into new product development, unique marketing strategies but also the future of male skincare across the world.

*Source: Euromonitor International
**Source: The BBC

To discover more about the Korean market and its opportunities, visit in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul on 2-4 July 2025.

As the name suggests, it means ageing well, rather than trying to turn back the clock or strive for unrealistic ideals. As we age, our skin thins, collagen production slows, cell turnover reduces and skin sags or forms wrinkles in places we wish it wouldn’t.

Stepping away from the societal demands to always look young, well-ageing is a concept that means you look great for your age – at any age – rather than try to claw back the sands of time. So how do you formulate for the well-ageing consumer? And what are they looking for in their skincare regimes?

Well-ageing cosmetic ingredients

The well-ageing consumer is looking for cosmetic ingredients that nurture their skin and protect it from further damage. They want to look good for their age – whether that be 45 or 75 – so want some firming, an emphasis on plumping, but most of all nutrients to restore vibrancy.

Key ingredients to achieve the results the well-ageing consumer is looking includes:

Humectants for instant suppleness. Humectants also have an osmolytic effect, and can help carry actives to the mid layers of the epidermis. Ingredients with this effect can be as simple as glycerin or propanediol, but also include advanced humectant ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA and betaine.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) gives the skin vibrancy and helps combat UV and pollution damage.

Actives with specific restorative activity against UV light and pollution, as these can increase ageing but are sometimes partly unavoidable. Learn about actives that are ideal to restore the skin after sun exposure here.

Peptides to support collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides are biomimetic with the skin and in the right delivery system, can reach deep into the epidermis to give dramatic results. See how effective peptides can be in your well-ageing formulas.

Retinol alternatives to support cell turnover without the risk of irritation. Learn more about retinol alternatives and how they can be a fantastic addition to your cosmetic formulas where skin renewal is an important result for your consumer.

Formulating well-ageing skincare

One of the core principles of well-ageing is to boost vibrancy, and the best way to do that is to protect against trans-epidermal water loss. Water-in-oil (w/o) formulas are ideal to provide a breathable lipid shield to hold moisture in the skin, and by doing so, making it appear more nourished and hydrated, and ensure it remains that way.

One of the problems with traditional w/o formulas is that they can feel greasy, being a majority oil phase. The older your consumer, the more desirable extra lipids may be; otherwise look for clever formulation aids such as Bentone gels (Elementis) that enable you to formulate w/o creams and lotions with as little as 20-25% oil phase.

You can also use light skin feel lipids and silicones to make the end product a sensory delight rather than a greasy slick. Watch how easy you can create a w/o cream using the Bentone gels, especially since they are cold processable!

Serums are also a popular item that fit the well-ageing category. The well-ageing consumer wants the moisture protective benefits of a w/o cream or lotion, but they may also seek out specific spot-treatment type serums, such as:

Anti-ageing serums: packed with actives for a more instant and targeted anti-ageing effect; for example, around the eyes.

Hyperpigmentation serums: to target specific areas of hyperpigmentation on the cheeks or forehead.

Anti-eye bag serums: using actives that specifically target the skin under the eye, to firm and revitalize this specific hard-to-remedy area.

You may have other serum concepts to target specific well-ageing needs. Find out how to formulate serums and then add your chosen actives to suit your specific well-ageing consumer needs!

Why well-ageing is a great trend to follow

Consumers eventually tire of trying to be something they’re not. While anti-ageing may be the core focus of Caucasians and Hispanics from their mid-30s (and Asians and African-Caribbean skin types from their mid-40s), there comes a time when consumers just want to love the skin they’re in.

If you’re not sure of the skin differences, learn how skin ages by different ethnic skin types here. Once they’ve tried and tested various anti-ageing routines for 10-15 years, these consumers will move way from trying to fight the hands of time and instead want a more wholistic approach to the skin they have, and the age they are. It’s about acceptance that ageing is inevitable, but one can look happy, healthy and vibrant at any point in life, rather than chasing an impossible reversal.

Well-ageing is all about boosting the wellness of the skin, combating previous (and ongoing) damage, and supporting natural moisture protection to restore a healthful skin glow.

Speak with your suppliers about their well-ageing actives, and those mentioned in this article, as well as targeted actives to support the well-ageing movement.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Well-ageing: the new approach to anti-ageing skincare first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/well-ageing-the-new-approach-to-anti-ageing-skincare/feed/ 0 23124 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-blue-beauty-infatuation-marine-players-leading-the-way/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-blue-beauty-infatuation-marine-players-leading-the-way/#respond Mon, 31 Mar 2025 11:00:23 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23018 By: Covalo Team  Exploring the power of the ocean Beneath the shimmering surface of the vast oceans lies a treasure trove of transformative potential. In recent years, marine ingredients have emerged as an exciting frontier in beauty and wellness, sparking a movement that experts are calling “blue beauty“ – redefining how we think about skincare, sustainability, […]