in-cosmetics Connect https://connect.in-cosmetics.com The in-cosmetics Group is the meeting point and learning hub for the personal care development community worldwide Thu, 21 Aug 2025 14:09:54 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/cropped-INCOS-Group_60x60_Logo-32x32.png in-cosmetics Connect https://connect.in-cosmetics.com 32 32 120263668 Driving the future of beauty science at in-cosmetics Asia 2025 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/driving-the-future-of-beauty-science-at-in-cosmetics-asia-2025/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/driving-the-future-of-beauty-science-at-in-cosmetics-asia-2025/#respond Thu, 21 Aug 2025 14:07:08 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23529 Where celebrity insights will meet breakthrough biotech innovations 21 AUGUST, Bangkok: in-cosmetics Asia, organised by RX, will unite more than 700 global and Asia Pacific suppliers for its most dynamic edition yet. The 2025 edition will create opportunities, insights and inspiration for APAC’s personal care community to develop and formulate products that meet evolving consumer […]

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Where celebrity insights will meet breakthrough biotech innovations

21 AUGUST, Bangkok: in-cosmetics Asia, organised by RX, will unite more than 700 global and Asia Pacific suppliers for its most dynamic edition yet. The 2025 edition will create opportunities, insights and inspiration for APAC’s personal care community to develop and formulate products that meet evolving consumer needs. Registration to attend is now live.

Taking place on 4-6 November at BITEC in Bangkok, Thailand, the event will seek to provide solutions to key challenges with the programme to revolve around themes of biotech, sustainability, consumer trends, halal, product multifunctionality, UV protection and well-ageing. With visitor registration currently up 37% compared to last year, the 16th edition promises to be the biggest and most vibrant in the show’s history.

As the Asia Pacific region continues to lead the global beauty and personal care market, accounting for almost 40% , in-cosmetics Asia stands as the region’s leading personal care ingredients platform for discovering the latest trends and scientific discoveries driving industry growth.

Insight, innovation, and regional perspectives

Across the three days, a line-up of keynote sessions will explore some of the most influential themes shaping the region. The Marketing Trends theatre, sponsored by BASF, will feature sessions from industry-leading figures from companies including Euromonitor, Kline, Mintel, and Amorepacific and more.

Celebrity star power will take centre stage with the session, ‘Celebrity Singer to Beauty Entrepreneur Journey!’ featuring Raisa Andriana, one of Indonesia’s most celebrated pop music artists with 37 million Instagram followers. Alongside Titania Fairuskha, together they co-founded Indonesia’s rising beauty brand, Raine Beauty. Andriana and Fairushkha will explore their journey which shaped a brand that fuses music, personal identity and minimalist elegance into a distinctive voice. The session will explore how Raine Beauty navigates formulation, storytelling, and community-building in a competitive market, highlighting the power of authenticity, passion, and pop culture in creating next-generation beauty brands that truly resonate with consumers across the Asia Pacific region.

The session, ‘Consumer Behaviour Shifts Across China, India, South-East Asia,’ will delve into the evolving consumer trends across the APAC region with insights from Florence Bernardin and Héloise Lefebvre du Prey, Owner and Project Manager, Asia Cosme Lab. They will discuss how beauty consumers are becoming more ingredient- and trend-savvy, seeking multifunctional products, and highlight key behaviour drivers across China, India, and Southeast Asia.

The Middle East’s beauty industry is one of the most buoyant and fast-evolving beauty markets in the world. Faiza Hussain, Director of The Skin Shrink and Head of Research and Product Innovation, NEX Skincare, will lead her session on‘Beauty in the Middle East – Formulating for the Middle Eastern Consumer,’ which will dive into fast-growing sector.

Michele Superchi, Global Vice President, and Suthini Tanangsnakooli, Forecast Editor at BEAUTYSTREAMS, will discover the advancing beauty landscape in: ‘The Future of Beauty: 2026 Trends Across Skincare, Haircare, Colour & Wellness.’ Meanwhile, KinShen Chan, Associate Director of Beauty and Personal Care Insights, Mintel APAC, will discuss ‘2026 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends,’ in a forward-looking session that will unpack emerging trends, disruptive technologies, and shifting consumer behaviours.

Other sessions will focus on advancing trends and emerging innovations, providing fresh perspectives and insight into what is next for the industry, including: ‘How Southeast Asia’s Youth are Redefining Beauty and who’s Winning their Hearts,’ and ‘From Seoul to Shelf: K-Beauty’s Impact on the Future of OTC Sunscreens & Regulatory Compliance.’ To see the full Marketing Trends Theatre programme, visit the website here.

Following its successful 2024 debut, the Conference in association with the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) will return to the event this year with an agenda set to cover Well-Ageing including clinical and biological insights. Full programme details will be released soon.

Ingredient knowledge and scientific advances

A series of Technical Seminars will offer highly advanced perspectives into new ingredients and technology from scientists and technical experts. Sessions from companies such as RADIANT Inc, ROELMI HPC, Oleon, DOW, Solabia Group, J. Rettenmaier & Söhne, will touch on topics such as anti-ageing, emulsions, SPF, fragrance ingredients and more.

Seminars will include: ‘Advancing Longevity: Innovative Approach for Healthy Ageing and Skin Vitality,’ by Oriane Le Roux from Solabia Group, addressing the growing focus on longevity and senescence. Dr. Carsten Dietz from Cosphatec GmbH will speak on ‘Hydrogenated Lecithins: Unlocking the Future of Skincare Innovation,’ showcasing how hydrogenated lecithins with high phosphatidylcholine content mimic the skin’s lipid barrier to enhance penetration, hydration, and bioavailability of actives.

Armin Ungerer, Deputy Head of Research and Development, J. Rettenmaier & Söhne, will lead the session, ‘Boosting SPF and Enhancing Formulations with Natural Ingredients,’ revealing how VIVAPUR® CS 9 FM and VIVAPUR® CS TEX Sun can transform suncare products.

Hands-on expertise

The interactive Formulation Lab sessions, supported by Personal Care Magazine, IKA, Shieling Laboratories, and Namsiang, offer R&D professionals a unique hands-on opportunity in a fully equipped lab on the show floor. Participants can work alongside peers from across Asia Pacific, taking part in sessions such as: ‘Next-Gen Lightweight Formulation: Calm, Protect, and Defend Against UV Rays and Exposomes,’ with Mie Lin Soong, Regional Technical Manager, Gattefossé SAS; ‘Explore Your Perfect Shade: Personalize Vitamin C Foundation with Hand-Mixed Colour Fitting,’ led by Kohei Anzai, Scientist, R&D Center, Nikko Chemicals; and ‘Synergistic Gel Pairing for Stable, Enhanced Formulas,’ with Gaelle Coestesquis, Formulation Manager APAC, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant.

The full 2025 Formulation Lab programme will be revealed soon.

Innovations from the show floor

Hangzhou Sartort Biopharma Co., Ltd, a Chinese ingredient supplier, will present a wide range of ingredients, including Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Nicotinamide, and Tretinoin. The company’s portfolio covers applications in moisturising, whitening, and soothing formulations. Italian ingredient developer, SAES Chemicals, which creates functional materials for cosmetic applications will showcase its ZeoSAES® range which produces high purity, texturising inorganic ingredients derived from engineered zeolites, designed for use in sensorial formulations.

BK Solutions and Specialities will present US FDA-certified Carbon Black Water-Based Dispersion, a high-purity pigment designed for vibrant, long-lasting cosmetic applications. Turkey-based KALE CARE CHEMICALS will demonstrate its speciality blends and micro and macro emulsions for personal care and home care. Exhibitors from the region including Namsiang Co.,Ltd., Vance Bioenergy, Daito Kasei, will be joined by companies from across the globe, such as CNP Life Sciences, Gustav Heess GmbH, Innovacos, Libra Speciality Chemicals, and many more.

New exhibitors to 2025 include Thai company Malee Applied Sciences, a manufacturer and distributor which will be exhibiting ORENIX®, a Thai extract derived from upcycling tangerines; Naulakha Essentials, a leading Indian manufacturer of melt & pour soap bases; and Melt&Marble, a Sweden-based biotechnology company developing the next generation of sustainable lipids and related molecules.

Showcasing the latest breakthrough ingredients

Sponsored by Mibelle AG Biochemistry, the Innovation Zone will feature more than 100 personal care ingredients launched within eight months of the event. The most anticipated area of in-cosmetics Asia, it attracts 76% of attendees eager to discover the industry’s latest innovations firsthand. Visitors can test prototypes from leading companies such as BASF, Cargill NV, Evonik, Rahn, EXSYMOL, and more. All ingredients in the Zone will be contenders for the in-cosmetics Asia Awards.

Where biotech meets beauty

A rising trend not just in the APAC region but globally, biotechnology is gaining significant traction with consumers and formulators alike. PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), exosomes, biomimicry and NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) are emerging as trending ingredients demonstrating the blend of natural resources and advanced science.

This year’s Spotlight on Biotech Beauty area, sponsored by BASF, will offer a dedicated area for innovations in biotech. Featuring formulated ingredients from leading exhibitors, the area invites visitors to experience the next generation of beauty innovations firsthand, from hyaluronic acid and exosome-based actives to lab-grown collagen and peptides. Exhibitors in this space will include Ichimaru Pharcos Co., ltd, Melt&Marble, Micro Powders, TriBeaute Inc., and more. All showcased prototypes will be entered into the Spotlight on Formulation Awards, with a dedicated Spotlight on Guide to help visitors navigate the innovations on display.

Industry expertise, insight and connections

New for 2025, in-cosmetics Asia will host Ask the Experts Networking Sessions, giving visitors the chance to connect with industry specialists in a relaxed, interactive setting. Taking place from 16:15 to 17:15 at the Award Ceremony area, attendees can visit desks covering formulation, product development, natural and organic sustainability, regulations and marketing. Experts include Dr Oliver Hofmann, in-cosmetics Asia’s Official Technical Advisor; Faiza Hussain, Director of The Skin Shrink and Head of Research at NEX Skincare; Amarjit Sahota, Founder of Ecovia Intelligence; and Dr Barbara Olioso, CEO of The Green Chemist Consultancy.

For more information, visit the ‘Ask the Experts’ page here.

9 Faces of the APAC beauty industry

Following its inaugural year in 2024, the 9 Faces of the APAC Beauty Industry 2025 Awards, supported by Personal Care Magazine, will recognise and celebrate the remarkable individuals driving innovation, creativity and success in the Asia Pacific cosmetic science industry. The initiative shines a well-deserved spotlight on the changemakers, and unsung heroes based in Asia Pacific whose contributions help advance the industry into a more scientific, sustainable and forward-thinking era.

Nine individuals will be selected by an expert judging panel, with the winners celebrated at the in-cosmetics Asia Awards. To nominate yourself or a colleague for free, visit the website here.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director of in-cosmetics Asia, said: “in-cosmetics Asia is a celebration of the personal care industry – a place where the region’s brightest minds, leading brands, and most innovative suppliers come together to share ideas and showcase advancements from across APAC and beyond.

For 2025, we are thrilled to deliver our biggest and most engaging edition yet, with visitor interest soaring, more than 700 global and Asia Pacific exhibitors, and exciting new areas such as the Spotlight on Biotech Beauty and a Marketing Trends Theatre that is more diverse than ever.“

We are also running a special hosted buyer and brand owner programme, introducing manufacturers from the region to the show as first-time visitors, ensuring fresh connections and business opportunities. From exclusive product launches to innovative education and unparalleled networking opportunities, this year’s event promises to set a new benchmark for innovation, collaboration and growth in the industry.”

in-cosmetics Asia 2025 will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), in Bangkok, Thailand, from 4-6 November 2025. The event will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s most comprehensive exhibition on manufacturing technologies, machinery, packaging, and ODM/OEM services for cosmetics and personal care. For more information and to register, visit the in-cosmetics Asia website here.

ENDS

Notes to editors:

For further information, please contact Olivia Evans or Kat Long on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

About RX
RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 41 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com

About RELX
RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

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How to choose the best active ingredients for your cosmetic formula https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/how-to-choose-the-best-active-ingredients-for-your-cosmetic-formula/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/how-to-choose-the-best-active-ingredients-for-your-cosmetic-formula/#respond Wed, 20 Aug 2025 09:38:14 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23522 Consumers, now more than ever, want personal care products that really deliver on their performance and promises. So how can you make sure you are choosing the best active for your cosmetic formulas? Read on to learn tips and tricks to get the required results by choosing the best active ingredients specific to your product […]

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Consumers, now more than ever, want personal care products that really deliver on their performance and promises. So how can you make sure you are choosing the best active for your cosmetic formulas?

Read on to learn tips and tricks to get the required results by choosing the best active ingredients specific to your product and cosmetic formula needs.

1. Review efficacy data of cosmetic actives carefully.

Cosmetic ingredient suppliers will usually provide detailed information showing how their active ingredients perform under certain conditions, which should include:

  • how much of the active ingredient was used to get the desired results;
  • how long it took to achieve those results;
  • how often product was applied;
  • the product form used to deliver the active ingredient.

You will need to review all of these items carefully when comparing different active ingredients and the relevance of the efficacy data to your desired use. For example, take particular note of:

  • how many applications per day or week are required to get the results: if you are formulating a once a week face mask, the results may not be relevant.
  • how much active was used: an active ingredient needed at 5%w/w to get similar results as an active used at 2%w/w may have formulation and cost implications making one active more desirable than another.
  • how long the results took to be obtained: usually the faster you can see the desired results, the better customer satisfaction and brand loyalty.
  • the type of formula the active was used in: if you are using the active in a gel-based serum, you may get very different results if the in vivo efficacy data was obtained from using an o/w cream.

Taking a critical look at these above considerations can help you identify which active ingredients have better suitability for your specific cosmetic formulation type and needs.

2. Actives from different suppliers, even with the same INCI, can have very different results.

The efficacy data you obtain from your cosmetic ingredient supplier is very specific to their ingredient.

This means that if you source a cosmetic active from another supplier, even if it has the same INCI or chemical name, it may be a different molecular weight, or may have used different extraction or manufacturing methods and therefore give very different results.

When using efficacy data from a cosmetic ingredient supplier, make sure you are sourcing your ingredients from that same supplier. What may seem like the same material from a different supplier could give a totally different outcome; see some examples of how this may impact your formulation and selections in this video.

3. Check pH, temperature and method of addition.

The cosmetic ingredient supplier information should provide you with details of:

  • any charge incompatibilities, if relevant;
  • pH of stability for that ingredient in a finished product. Be careful – this may differ from the pH of the ingredient in its raw form and what is written in its technical data or MSDS;
  • how the active ingredient should be added; for example, if it should be added in the cool down phase or with heat, and if you need to use high or low shear processing to incorporate it into the formula;
  • any other incompatibilities; if relevant.

If you use a great active ingredient in an incompatible formula, add at the wrong temperature, use the wrong shear or have a final pH that is not compatible, the material simply won’t work.

If you have the choice of active ingredients where one has broader compatibilities than another, then that would typically be the better active to choose.

You may also need to use a sodium citrate buffer to help stabilise the final pH of a formula within a tight range. Watch this video which explains how to select the best active along with an example of stabilising an active using a sodium citate buffer.

4. Consider delivery and penetration.

It is important to make sure your active ingredients get to the site where they can provide the best results. For example:

  • oils and proteins provide the best results on the outer layers of the epidermis;
  • humectants not only enhance delivery of active ingredients to the mid-layers of the epidermis, but also provide their best results when there; and
  • very small molecular weight actives such as peptides will need to penetrate to the deeper layers of the epidermis to get the best results.

Make sure your cosmetic formulas incorporate penetration enhancers if deeper delivery is needed.

5. Understand how the active ingredients in cosmetic formulas work for best results.

When you understand how the active ingredients work, the depth of delivery they need, and their mode of action, you can make the best ingredient selections. This means making the best cosmetic ingredient selections for the whole formula, not just the active ingredients.

Functional ingredients like emulsifiers can support barrier protection, when chosen correctly. Osmolytes and amphiphilic formulas can enhance delivery. Which is needed for the actives you have chosen and the site of activity?

Understanding how your active ingredients work, along with their incompatibilities and site of activity, is fundamental in making the best choices for all ingredients in your cosmetic formulas. This is what ensures your final formula, and choice of actives, will have the best possible results.

When choosing the best active for your cosmetic formulas, make sure you read supplier data carefully and apply all the rules in this article to make the best active ingredient selection and get the best performance from your cosmetic formulas.

Happy formulating!


Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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Beauty and the Middle East https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/beauty-and-the-middle-east/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/beauty-and-the-middle-east/#respond Mon, 18 Aug 2025 14:15:26 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23517 A Skincare Revolution The Middle East is entering a skincare revolution. For product innovators, brands and everyone in between, a truly extraordinary opportunity is unfolding. This is a region where beauty has always been celebrated but now skincare is stepping into the spotlight it deserves, in a way that is reshaping the market and demanding […]

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A Skincare Revolution

The Middle East is entering a skincare revolution. For product innovators, brands and everyone in between, a truly extraordinary opportunity is unfolding.

This is a region where beauty has always been celebrated but now skincare is stepping into the spotlight it deserves, in a way that is reshaping the market and demanding innovation.

Despite a population of over 500 million, skincare in the Middle East has historically taken a back seat to dominating fragrance and makeup categories.

In comparison to the rest of the world, it still only accounts for 12–14% of the entire beauty market (Chalhoub Group, 2023). But that’s rapidly changing, with a 30% year-over-year increase (Euromonitor).

Why the Middle East and Why Now?

Let’s start with the numbers. According to Euromonitor, the Middle East beauty market is forecast to grow to $60 billion by the end of 2025.

Last year, the skincare market in the Middle East was valued at $6 billion, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6%. And this isn’t showing any signs of slowing down. The beauty market is driven by several united forces.

A demographic that’s one of the youngest and most beauty-conscious in the world, with over 60% of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) population under 30 and they are not just consuming, they are leading trends.

Digital acceleration and a high social media penetration rate of influencer culture, where TikTok, Instagram and YouTube are driving education and purchases.

Beauty content creators in the region now influence up to 80% of consumer purchase decisions in skincare (Chalhoub Group, 2023). Engagement isn’t just high, it’s conversion rich.

Economic strength and aspiration, thanks to rising disposable incomes and initiatives like Saudi Vision 2030, are fuelling demand for premium and masstige (mass, prestige) categories.

In countries like the UAE, over 80% of the population is expatriates; this diversity is also creating a demand for globally recognised brands that emphasise efficacy and regulatory standards.

This combination has created a skincare-first mindset that prioritises efficacy, inclusivity and cultural authenticity. Repurchasing is driven by performance, where consumers buy because a product speaks to them and then they buy again because it delivers.

Where past generations might have covered up skin concerns with full-coverage foundations, today’s digitally literate consumers are investing in skin longevity. Looking good is no longer just about aesthetics; it’s about self-respect, confidence and cultural pride.

Formulations are not just an afterthought; they are a well-timed response to this growing skincare consciousness.

The Middle Eastern Skincare Consumer

Here’s the thing: today’s Middle Eastern skincare consumer is intentional and well-informed. They’re not impulse buying based on brand hype alone, they research, cross-reference and share their experiences online.

Ingredient literacy is now mainstream and no longer a niche, with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and liquorice root extract among the most searched ingredients in Arabic-language content.

72% of young consumers actively seek science-backed skincare that addresses the region’s extreme climates and their harsh environmental realities, such as heat, humidity, sand, overexposure to air-conditioning and year‑round UV (index 9–12) exposure (Gen Z GCC Skincare Report, 2024).

Their top priorities are hydration, radiance and even skin tone. SPF, once neglected, is now a daily staple, particularly as awareness grows of long-term hyperpigmentation risks for sun-kissed melanin-rich complexions.

Social media doesn’t just inspire, it converts. Beauty creators and “skinfluencers” across the UAE and KSA are increasingly co-developing products with brands, bridging science and culture to accelerate market relevance.

And so, the skincare revolution here isn’t just about beauty trends; it’s about formulation relevance.

Formulating for Climate and Complexion

The Middle East represents a real opportunity for science-led, climate-adapted and heritage-rich skincare.

Consumers prefer lightweight and non-comedogenic formulations, inclusive of skin tones with higher melanin. There’s a rising demand for broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 that works seamlessly with traditional, modest clothing (abayas/ hijabs) without staining, showing how skincare integrates with lifestyle, not just skin type.

At the same time, traditional ingredients like rose water, oud oils, black seed, frankincense and camel milk are being rediscovered through a modern lens.

This heritage of ancestral wisdom, paired with advanced technologies, is where the Middle East could carve its unique path, not copying other global skincare trends, but building something new!

Formulations that offer multi-functionality, sensory appeal and cultural resonance are winning the loyalty of this new skincare consumer by aligning with their values and preferences.

Cultural & Science-backed Storytelling

If you’re eyeing the region, here’s the message: you can’t cut and paste your global strategy here. To localise, not just in language, but in relevance.

By customising approaches, marketing strategies and product offerings to align with the diverse preferences that each country and sometimes regions within a country have. Acknowledging unique cultural, economic and social influences on consumer behaviour rather than applying a one-size-fits-all strategy.

Formulating for the region’s extreme climate with lightweight, melanin-friendly textures (no white cast!), celebrating key Islamic and cultural dates like Eid and National Day and earning trust through science-backed education rather than empty claims.

While the Middle East is significantly influenced by the West, Arabic remains the dominant language. Going beyond translation by adapting content to local customs and sensitivities.

Collaborating with local creators and influencers is non-negotiable, as is agility in e-commerce and mall-driven retail, where trend-responsive launches prosper.

Brands that take this approach are already seeing growth across the biggest key players in the region (the UAE and KSA), both online and in-store.

Regulatory Essentials

The UAE and KSA are the two largest beauty markets in the Middle East, but their regulations and registration timelines differ significantly (3–6 months) depending on the category.

Halal certification is not obligatory, but it is a quick trust‑builder for the region. In the UAE, halal certification is voluntary, but halal-compliant formulations (alcohol-free, halal-sourced animal derivatives) are increasingly expected in mass and masstige segments.

Alcohol denatured for cosmetic purposes may be acceptable in the UAE, but in KSA (via GSO 1943:2016, SFDA), it is more strictly regulated. This attention to faith-based preferences demonstrates the utmost cultural respect and can significantly strengthen brand credibility in the market.

Bilingual labelling in Arabic and English is required, while advertising must stay culturally mindful (no nudity, limited skin exposure or use of explicit language).

A Skincare Renaissance

What’s happening in the Middle East is not a trend, but a seismic shift. Skincare is viewed as an investment in long-term skin health and has become a form of self-expression, wellness and cultural identity.

For formulators, innovators, manufacturers and brands, this is one of the most dynamic and innovation-ready beauty markets in the world.

If the past few years have shown us anything, it’s that the next big formulation opportunity is happening right here, in the Middle East.

Faiza Hussain will be speaking at in-cosmetics Asia about Beauty in the Middle East – Formulating for the Middle Eastern Consumer  on Wed 5 Nov, 12:30. To attend register for your free show badge here

For more Middle East insights and winning strategies in MENA (Middle East & North Africa) connect with Faiza on LinkedIn and at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, 2025.

References

  • Chalhoub Group, 2023. Middle East beauty market insights. Chalhoub Group.
  • Euromonitor International, 2024. Middle East beauty and skincare market report. Euromonitor.
  • Gen Z GCC Skincare Report, 2024. Consumer skincare preferences in the Gulf Cooperation Council region.
  • Saudi Food & Drug Authority (SFDA), 2016. GSO 1943:2016 – Cosmetic products safety regulations.
  • BeautyMatter (in collaboration with Beautyworld Middle East), 2024. Middle East Beauty Market Report: Past, Present, Future.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

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Coming up https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/regions/virtual-events/calendar-of-events/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/regions/virtual-events/calendar-of-events/#respond Fri, 01 Aug 2025 07:56:00 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=9078 LAUNCHES, TRENDS AND MORE If you are keen to learn about the latest ingredient launches, formulation expertise or trends in personal care, check out our range of live events as well as live and on-demand webinars. Enjoy these face-to-face or in the comfort of your home, lab or office!   NEXT LIVE EVENTS COMING UP […]

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LAUNCHES, TRENDS AND MORE

If you are keen to learn about the latest ingredient launches, formulation expertise or trends in personal care, check out our range of live events as well as live and on-demand webinars. Enjoy these face-to-face or in the comfort of your home, lab or office!


 

NEXT LIVE EVENTS COMING UP

 

With events taking place around the world in 2024, take this opportunity to meet the personal care ingredient community face-to-face…

Dates:

 

Visit the portfolio website


WEBINARS ON-DEMAND

From the microbiome to cannabinoids, J-beauty ingredients or the joy of plumping, check out our wide range of on-demand webinars going back several years. 

View previous webinar sessions and tune in on-demand 

 

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in-cosmetics Asia set for record growth in 2025 with interest up 273% https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/in-cosmetics-asia-set-for-record-growth-in-2025-with-interest-up-273/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/in-cosmetics-asia-set-for-record-growth-in-2025-with-interest-up-273/#respond Sun, 27 Jul 2025 23:11:46 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23497 The agenda will spotlight biotech formulation challenges and consumer trends in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, is poised to deliver its biggest and most dynamic show to date as it returns to BITEC, Bangkok from 4-6 November 2025. This year’s event will play host to 80% of the world’s […]

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The agenda will spotlight biotech formulation challenges and consumer trends

in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, is poised to deliver its biggest and most dynamic show to date as it returns to BITEC, Bangkok from 4-6 November 2025.

This year’s event will play host to 80% of the world’s top 10 ingredient suppliers, including industry giants like BASF, Croda, Clariant, and Evonik. It is also expected to welcome 90% of the world’s top 10 cosmetic manufacturers, from L’Oréal and P&G to Kenvue and Unilever.

Now in its 16th year, in-cosmetics Asia has tripled in size since its launch, reflecting the growing demand among R&D professionals and formulators for ingredient solutions in the region.

The 2025 edition will feature over 700 exhibitors and welcome thousands of cosmetic scientists, manufacturers, brand owners, and product developers from across Asia Pacific and further afield. Based on the registration alert requests, overall demand for the show is already tracking 273% higher than at this stage in 2024.

Amid market volatility and regulatory shifts in the US, EU and China, global cosmetic brands are increasingly turning to Asia Pacific, with in-cosmetics Asia website traffic from the US, Russia and China up by 105%, 69% and 22%, respectively.

Up to 100 new exhibitors will be joining the event, with traffic to the website’s Exhibitor Directory up by 151% compared to last year; a clear sign of how eager personal care experts are to research and source the latest personal care ingredients.

in-cosmetics Asia 2025 continues to evolve alongside industry trends, with this year’s show placing a strong spotlight on:
• Personalisation and AI-powered beauty
• Shifting consumer behaviours across China, India and Southeast Asia
• Ethical cosmetics and sustainability: with marine-derived ingredients emerging as one of the most searched-for categories on the website.
• Product stability and efficacy: a core focus of this year’s Technical Seminar and Formulation Lab programmes.
• SPF and UV protection: with the latest advances in UV filters, formulation strategies and regional compliance challenges.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director at in-cosmetics Asia, said:

“This year marks an exciting turning point. As beauty brands navigate macroeconomic pressures and shifting consumer priorities, we have seen growing interest in APAC based on its agility, speed to market and endless demographic opportunities. in-cosmetics Asia 2025 will echo that momentum, not just in scale, but in how deeply we engage with the industry’s most pressing needs.

“From the rise of biotech beauty to the growing demand for well-ageing solutions, we’re aligning our programme with the real challenges facing formulators today: matching consumer trends with R&D capabilities, efficacy, ingredient compatibility, UV protection and more. This year’s show will provide attendees a platform to innovate and advance with confidence. There’s much more to come, and we look forward to revealing what’s in store!”

in-cosmetics Asia will take place from 4-6 November 2025 at BITEC, Bangkok. It will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s leading manufacturing, packaging and OEM/ODM exhibition for personal care and dietary supplement products.

Visitor registration will open in early August. For more information, visit here.

ENDS
Notes to editors: For further information please contact Olivia Evans or Kat Long at the in-cosmetics press office on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

About RX
RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

About RELX
RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

 

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India & the Middle East: Charting a new path for green beauty https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/india-the-middle-east-charting-a-new-path-for-green-beauty/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/india-the-middle-east-charting-a-new-path-for-green-beauty/#respond Fri, 25 Jul 2025 22:55:09 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23484 In the race for cleaner, smarter beauty, a quiet revolution is unfolding – not in the laboratories of Paris or Seoul, but in the deserts of Riyadh and the fields of Kerala. As sustainability moves from trend to requirement, India and the Middle East are becoming powerful epicentres of raw material innovation. While the beauty […]

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In the race for cleaner, smarter beauty, a quiet revolution is unfolding – not in the laboratories of Paris or Seoul, but in the deserts of Riyadh and the fields of Kerala.

As sustainability moves from trend to requirement, India and the Middle East are becoming powerful epicentres of raw material innovation. While the beauty and personal care industry leans into conscious formulations and low-impact practices, these two regions are stepping up — not just as suppliers, but as creators of a new kind of chemistry.

A new frontier in sustainable beauty

Across the globe, beauty is redefining what innovation looks like. From Estée Lauder’s investments in biotech labs to L’Oréal’s Green Sciences roadmap, big beauty is no longer just about formulas, it’s about ecosystems that are future-ready.

While the West rushes to patent clean actives, regions like India and the Middle East are quietly building the future from the ground up: with laboratories, land, and legacy.

What is green chemistry?

At its core, green chemistry is a smarter way to build beauty —one that protects both your skin and the planet. It’s a framework that replaces wasteful, chemical-heavy methods for cleaner techniques like using natural ingredients, reusing leftover crops (like coffee or fruit peels), and using less energy in production.

For example, using plant-derived actives that break down naturally—like coconut-based surfactants or fermented botanicals—prevents pollution in water systems. Or by using ingredients made from food or farming by-products—like coffee grounds, fruit peels, or rice husk—that turn waste into high-performance skincare.

Rooted in region

From upcycled ingredients to low-energy extraction methods, green chemistry is no longer niche, it’s a necessity.

In India, ingredient labs are blending Ayurvedic knowledge with low-impact extraction methods to bring out the best in nature without environmental damage. Think botanical actives such as ashwagandha, moringa, and manjistha being stabilized for skin compatibility and long-term health, or saffron processed without solvents.

Meanwhile, start-ups in the UAE and Saudi Arabia are exploring waterless formulations, solar-powered processing units, and ingredients sourced from desert-resilient flora. These methods aren’t just efficient — they’re essential in regions where sustainability isn’t a luxury, it’s a necessity for longevity.

Tradition meets technology

India’s strength lies in its biodiversity and ancient wisdom. From turmeric to tulsi — once seen as folk remedies — traditional actives are now being clinically evaluated for anti-inflammatory, brightening, and barrier-repair properties. Labs are standardizing extracts to retain microbiome integrity and boost skin tolerance, giving traditional ingredients new appreciation in global markets.

In contrast, the Middle East’s superpower is survival. Native plants like desert date, ghaf tree, and prickly pear, are known for their ability to thrive in extreme heat. When formulated in skincare, they offer barrier repair, adaptive hydration, and antioxidant protection against oxidative stress and pollution.

Together, these ecosystems show how local biology can meet global beauty needs — not through extraction, but through existence across time.

Global eyes on local labs

The West is watching and taking notes. Global ingredient houses are increasingly investing in regional partnerships. DSM, BASF, and Croda have all made strategic moves in India and the GCC. They’re not just sourcing, they’re developing ingredients collaboratively.

Following this strategic shift, indie brands are also tapping into these regional ecosystems for ingredient authenticity, cultural resonance, lab access, and a rich sustainability story. In a world where greenwashing is rife, these partnerships are driving a wave of intentional innovation. This shift isn’t cosmetic, it’s foundational.

India and the Middle East are exemplifying what it means to build beauty at the root. Slow, not rushed. Green chemistry is no longer a Western ideal — it’s becoming a global standard, powered by local ecosystems that have always known how to adapt, evolve, and endure.

In these emerging hubs, what was once regional progress, is now a global signal.

References

L’Oréal Group (2021). L’Oréal’s Green Sciences: Roadmap toward more sustainable ingredients by 2030.
Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (2023). Estée Lauder expands R&D investments in sustainable biotech.
BASF (2022). BASF advances green chemistry with biodegradable and upcycled ingredients.
Croda International Plc (2023). Croda strengthens sustainability R&D with India-based innovation centres.
DSM-Firmenich (2023). DSM expands regional ingredient partnerships across the Middle East and India.
Vogue Business (2023). How apple peel found its way into your bathroom shelf: The rise of upcycled beauty.
Inolex (2023). Green chemistry for cosmetics: Designing safer, sustainable formulations.
Mintel (2023). Indian and GCC beauty trends: Ayurveda, desert botanicals, and climate-smart skincare


Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

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Validated Claim Support

(Sponsored Content)

In this exclusive interview, we caught up with Brian Ecclefield, the Founder of  Validated Claim Support, who shares his thoughts and insights into the testing market, harmoniziation and disruptive trends as well as a secret very few people know…

Sunscreen is exploding currently. Can you share some insights into what is going on in the field, especially with regards to testing and perhaps the role retailers and influencers are playing?

Exploding is a great adjective here, as that is exactly what sunscreen is doing at the moment.  There are numerous articles regarding underperforming sunscreens on the market, and social media is volatile with back and forth assertations and allegations.  

The global market has had a major push towards “Mineral Sunscreens” which means those which contain only Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  “Organic SPF Filters” have been somewhat vilified in a variety of markets due to their potential for degradation and interaction with the human body and the environment as a whole (as an easy example think “Reef Safe”).  

From a chemistry perspective, “Organic” or “Chemical” sunscreen filters are extremely effective and often backed by decades of bioavailability and safety studies at the global level.  Zinc and Titanium tend to have a fairly limited “efficacy range,” and only in the best formulations at extremely high quantities can the two ingredients successfully achieve water resistant SPF 50+ results. 

That said, they seem to be the two ingredients that find their way into the newest formulations, particularly within the US Market which has extremely limited filter choices due to FDA (over) regulation of the space.

With so much regulatory scrutiny and consumer skepticism, what does the future hold for cosmetic claims? Global harmonization in claims acceptability?

The market at large is currently “adapting” to push the boundaries of these “mineral” filters as far as possible, and that is often being done with “SPF Boosters” such as Butyloctyl Salicylate (BOS).

SPF Boosters are “quasi-regulated” and they do not have to appear in the “Active Ingredients” section of a sunscreen’s label despite the fact that they have a clear and direct impact upon the final SPF (the same formula with and without BOS will have a higher SPF once the BOS is added). 

Until regulatory can catch up with the “booster trend” consumers need to stay wary of “100% Mineral” SPF Label Claims, as they may be misleading since there are non mineral ingredients impacting the formula.  Chemically, BOS is very similar to Octisalate, which is an approved SPF active ingredient in most markets.

Regulatory needs to make decisions as to “inactive ingredients that are impacting the formulations performance” (which sounds to me like the definition of an “Active Ingredient!!!!!”). 

Unfortunately this will likely not be done in a “harmonized” manner as you have noted.  The EU and the US tend to go their own ways on Sunscreen and Cosmetic Regulation, and for a while with the MoCRA initiative in the US it looked like we could have moved towards some harmonization, however the current administration is in the process of “doing something serious” at the FDA. 

I think a good place to start would be “action” in the local regulatory zones which is decisive and complete.  As an example – ISO is working towards new international standards for hybrid in vivo/in vitro SPF results.  This would be a huge boon for consumer safety and testing ethics as participants would be receiving 95% or more of a reduction in delivered radiation during the efficacy/performance tests.  
 

In your opinion, what disruptive trends or technology in efficacy will render today’s methodology obsolete five or ten years down the line? 

I just mentioned the “Hybrid SPF Testing” element, which is fully known as Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy or HDRS.  Without getting into the deep science, this method will allow a much faster and safer SPF evaluation that doesn’t require directly sunburning the participants.  

This method is going to absolutely revolutionise clinical testing and claims, as for the first time it directly combines both in vivo UVB considerations as well as combining the reflectance technique which will provide insights that can’t be recognized through changes of the skin alone.  

This new method could* lead to the harmonization that you alluded to in question 3 – if we can get a formal, adopted, and approved method through ISO and FDA it will revolutionise the industry, making these tests faster and more efficient.  It will take away a lot of the variables that make the current test models so difficult, as there is no longer going to be a “subjective” assessment of the redness in the skin.  

Sunscreen testing will be utterly revolutionised – and it will actually become a much easier test to implement.  This will open up the competition and allow more players to compete in a healthy manner within the extremely niche claims and efficacy space, and it will also allow brands to conduct more of their own internal preliminary pilot research.


Can you share a secret about cosmetic testing very few people know?

Suncreen testing involves actively dosing people with UV radiation to a point where you illicit a redness response on the skin of the back.  Dumbing that down – it requires lightly sunburning 10 (and often more) people at a time.

These people also have to have a fair complexion, so sunscreen testing in upon itself is often only done on light skinned individuals.  If you see a product with an SPF that says it was “tested on all skintypes” it is definitely not talking about Fitzpatrick types, at least as far as the direct SPF efficacy is concerned.

A related one based on the above – “tested on all skintypes” OR “suitable for all skintypes” can actually mean 2 very different things.  It can mean that a product is tested on all of the Fitzpatrick skintypes, with Skintype I being the lightest and Skintype VI being the darkest, but it can also mean it is tested on a population where at least some of the individuals identify as “oily, dry, and/or combination skin.” 
 
This is a very common claim, and it’s  just about impossible to determine what categorization of “skin types” that the brand is referring to regarding the specific product data without having the test results in hand.


About our Interviewee: Brian Ecclefield, Founder, Validated Claim Support

Brian Ecclefield

Brian has spent the last 17 years custom developing in vivo clinical studies to help international brands build their personal care and cosmetic product portfolios. 

In 2018, he founded Validated Claim Support in the Testing, Inspection, Certification, and Compliance (TICC) space as an alternative to the “CRO Status Quo,” offering an ethical, transparent, and technologically secured solution for the modern Personal Care manufacturer.

Brian is heavily involved with consumer education and protection as it pertains to product label claims.  He has helped poke holes in misguided marketing language as an Expert Witness for cosmetic ingredients. 

By ensuring that end users gain a better understanding about what cosmetic and personal care claims actually mean and the value of doing studies the right way, Brian hopes to help make skincare clinical testing more transparent and CROs more accountable – leaving the industry a safer place for everyone.


Validated specializes in 4 main types of clinical testing to support claims:

  • Expert Objective Clinical Grading
  • Subjective User Perception
  • Biophysical Instrumentation
  • Clinical Before and After Photography

Onto the product/service we provide:

Validated Claim Support is a Skincare Clinical Testing Laboratory that conducts in-vivo (consumer/human) studies to determine how well products work.  We are decidedly “clinically” focused – we don’t do stand alone at home consumer perception studies, and our expertise is measurable endpoints – think clinical studies where participants, not @ home user consumer perception.

We conduct Expert Grading of visible changes in the skin and hair, biophysical instrumentation for things like hydration via electroconductivity, skin firmness and elasticity, surface sebum content, skin colour, skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and a wide range of other endpoint as well.

We test skincare, medical devices, OTC level ingredients, and a wide range of cosmetics (we also get into nutraceuticals but that’s less directly relevant). We’re FDA Registered and Inspected, and we ran over 70 completely custom clinical studies last year – many of which were for brands who you’ve already hosted. 

I founded VCS in 2018 as an “Alternative to the CRO (Clinical Research Organization) Status Quo” after having left two different laboratories over what I’ll call “unreconcilable ethical differences,” which proved to be extremely well founded. 

The owners of both companies have been in international news for fraud, and from my perspective, there is a very good reason.  I can tell you this, with 100% certainty. . . Skincare claims data that looks too good to be true is most definitely too good to be true!  That’s not to say that there aren’t highly effective products out there, but nothing is 100% effective 100% of the time.  This is a whole exciting topic in upon itself, and I’d be happy to chat more about it at a later time. 

Find out more about Validated Claim Support here

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The microbiome – latest cosmetic advances https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-microbiome-latest-cosmetic-advances-2/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-microbiome-latest-cosmetic-advances-2/#respond Fri, 25 Jul 2025 08:59:00 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23456 Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products. As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin. This blog will look at some of the more recent […]

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Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products. As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin.

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical!

Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

Kannabia Sense (Vyrtus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy with speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!


Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

 

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The biology of beauty: How skin longevity and biological hallmarks are shaping the next-gen of skincare products https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/the-biology-of-beauty-how-skin-longevity-and-biological-hallmarks-are-shaping-the-next-gen-of-skincare-products/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/the-biology-of-beauty-how-skin-longevity-and-biological-hallmarks-are-shaping-the-next-gen-of-skincare-products/#respond Wed, 23 Jul 2025 10:54:32 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23402 Skin longevity has shifted from a cosmetic goal to a scientifically grounded pursuit, propelled by advances in ageing biology and biotechnology. This article integrates recent scientific findings, including the expanded hallmarks of ageing, with global industry trends present at this year’s in-cosmetics Global to update the understanding of skin longevity in 2025, after examining intrinsic […]

The post The biology of beauty: How skin longevity and biological hallmarks are shaping the next-gen of skincare products first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>
Skin longevity has shifted from a cosmetic goal to a scientifically grounded pursuit, propelled by advances in ageing biology and biotechnology.

This article integrates recent scientific findings, including the expanded hallmarks of ageing, with global industry trends present at this year’s in-cosmetics Global to update the understanding of skin longevity in 2025, after examining intrinsic and extrinsic ageing factors, cellular and molecular mechanisms, and innovations in active ingredients.

Emphasizing a shift from anti-ageing to healthy ageing and resilience, this review shows how targeting biological hallmarks can transform skincare toward sustainable skin health.

Biological foundations of skin aging

Skin ageing is a multifactorial process influenced by intrinsic (genetic, cellular, and molecular) and extrinsic (environmental) factors. Intrinsic ageing involves accumulating cellular damage and declining regenerative capacity, while extrinsic ageing stems mainly from UV radiation (photoaging), pollution, and oxidative stress.

The concept of skin longevity, prolonging skin health and function rather than merely reversing visible signs of ageing, has become a global trend in the cosmetics industry in 2025.

This paradigm shift aligns with advances in the biology of aging, particularly the identification and expansion of the “Hallmarks of aging”, which provide a mechanistic blueprint to target ageing at its roots. This article integrates new scientific findings and industry innovations, offering a holistic and biologically informed roadmap for next-gen skincare products.

From theory to skincare applications: Active ingredients lead the innovation wave

The Cosmetics industry’s momentum was showcased at in-cosmetics Global 2025, where the most promising longevity-focused innovations were recognized.

Solabia Group earned the Gold Award in the Innovation Zone for its green biotechnology-derived “pro-longevity” ingredient, which demonstrated strong scientific backing. The Spanish ingredient manufacturer, Vytrus Biotech followed with a Silver Award for a 100% natural active inspired by “Fasting for skin longevity”, designed to boost cellular repair and regeneration.

These groundbreaking developments illustrate how biotechnology and molecular biology, inspired by natural mechanisms, are setting a new standard in active ingredients designed for long-term skin health, targeting these hallmarks:

  • Biotech-derived actives: Compounds inspired by natural longevity mechanisms, such as fasting-mimicking molecules, enhance repair and regeneration.
  • Antioxidants and mitochondrial support: Ingredients reduce oxidative stress and improve mitochondrial function.
  • Senolytics and senomorphics: Emerging actives selectively eliminate or modulate senescent cells.
  • Epigenetic modulators: Compounds restore youthful gene expression.
  • Proteostasis enhancers: Molecules improve protein folding and degradation.

The expanded “Hallmarks of Ageing”

Advances in ageing research, particularly the “Hallmarks of Ageing”, significantly deepen our understanding of skin aging, identifying twelve interconnected hallmarks that define ageing at the molecular level.

The Hallmarks of ageing refer to biological changes that occur in our skin over time as we age:

  1. Genomic instability: DNA damage impairs cell function and promotes senescence.
  2. Telomere attrition: Telomere shortening limits cell replication.
  3. Epigenetic alterations: Dysregulated gene expression affects skin cell identity.
  4. Loss of proteostasis: Impaired protein folding and clearance disrupts cell health.
  5. Deregulated nutrient sensing: Altered metabolism affects skin cells.
  6. Mitochondrial dysfunction: Declining mitochondrial efficiency increases ROS and reduces energy.
  7. Cellular senescence: Senescent cells secrete inflammatory factors that accelerate aging.
  8. Stem cell exhaustion: Depletion of skin stem cells limits regeneration.
  9. Altered intercellular communication: Disrupted signaling impairs tissue homeostasis.
  10. Chronic inflammation (inflammaging): Persistent low-grade inflammation damages skin.
  11. Disabled macroautophagy: Reduced autophagy limits cellular renewal.
  12. Dysbiosis: Microbiome imbalance affects the skin barrier and immunity.

These interconnected hallmarks collectively undermine skin integrity and function. Each hallmark meets three criteria: it increases with normal ageing, experimental modulation affects ageing rates, and targeted intervention can slow or reverse age-related decline.

Recent research has expanded the universe of ageing hallmarks, providing a mechanistic blueprint for understanding and targeting the root causes of ageing at the cellular and tissue levels, and has expanded the list from 12 to 16, with four additional hallmarks:

  1. Mechanical ageing: This refers to the wear and tear the skin undergoes from repetitive facial movements, gravity, and loss of structural integrity over time, as collagen and elastin fibers degrade, the skin becomes less able to resist mechanical stress. This contributes to wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of firmness.
  2. Disruption of the Circadian rhythm: Disrupted rhythms (due to ageing, poor sleep, or night-shift work) can impair DNA repair, barrier function, and antioxidant defences, making skin more vulnerable to damage.
  3. Skin-brain axis: Stress, anxiety, and neurological ageing can affect skin inflammation, barrier function, and wound healing, and can accelerate skin ageing, showing how mental health and ageing are deeply connected.
  4. Extracellular Matrix degradation: Ageing leads to an imbalance between ECM synthesis and degradation, primarily driven by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are enzymes activated by UV exposure and oxidative stress.

Shifting the storytelling: From anti-ageing to pro-longevity

In 2025, skin longevity has emerged as the most influential trend shaping the cosmetics industry. With an increasing demand for science-backed, well-ageing solutions, active ingredient manufacturers are prioritizing longevity-focused innovations that address biological ageing at its roots.

These next-generation ingredients aim to slow down the ageing process by targeting cellular and molecular damage while protecting the skin from environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution, blue light, and infrared radiation.

Marketing is moving from anti-ageing, implying reversal, to pro-ageing and pro-longevity claims, focusing on maintaining skin health and resilience. This approach embraces ageing as natural and emphasizes:

  • Protection against environmental damage.
  • Enhancing intrinsic repair and regeneration.
  • Maintaining skin barrier integrity and microbiome balance.
  • Supporting metabolic and immune homeostasis.

This holistic perspective meets consumer demand for sustainable, science-backed skincare promoting long-term well-being.

Future directions: Personalized and evidence-based products

The fusion of ageing biology and cosmetic science is redefining skin longevity as an achievable, science-based goal.

By targeting interconnected biological hallmarks with advanced biotechnologies is redefining what’s possible in skin longevity, and adopting healthy ageing narratives positions skincare to enhance appearance and sustain skin health and resilience.

This updated framework guides researchers, formulators, NPD, and marketers toward advancing skin longevity in 2025 and beyond.


Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The biology of beauty: How skin longevity and biological hallmarks are shaping the next-gen of skincare products first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/the-biology-of-beauty-how-skin-longevity-and-biological-hallmarks-are-shaping-the-next-gen-of-skincare-products/feed/ 0 23402 What is new in inclusion and diversity https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/what-is-new-in-inclusion-and-diversity/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/what-is-new-in-inclusion-and-diversity/#respond Tue, 01 Jul 2025 12:47:34 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23379 Recent reports indicate that inclusive beauty brands are experiencing growth rates 1.5 times faster than less inclusive brands, indicating a strong market preference for diversity and inclusion. These have ceased to be promotional labels and have become essential pillars of structural change in beauty, fashion, and cosmetics. While the representation of different skin tones, sizes, […]

The post What is new in inclusion and diversity first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> Recent reports indicate that inclusive beauty brands are experiencing growth rates 1.5 times faster than less inclusive brands, indicating a strong market preference for diversity and inclusion. These have ceased to be promotional labels and have become essential pillars of structural change in beauty, fashion, and cosmetics. While the representation of different skin tones, sizes, and genders has gained ground in the last decade, new emerging trends go far beyond the conventional. We are heading toward a future where neurodivergence, molecular personalization, cyborg aesthetics, and multisensory inclusion will redefine what it means to be truly inclusive. Below, we look at some of the most interesting trends in our industry.

 

Neurodiversity in product and experience design: One of the most disruptive trends in 2025 is the emergence of products designed for neurodivergent people, that is, people who may have autism, ADHD, dyslexia, or sensory hypersensitivity. According to an April 2025 article in Vogue, luxury brands are developing cosmetic lines with fragrance-free formulas, applicators with very soft tactile stimulus, and textures specially designed to avoid sensory overload. We will also see this trend in the shopping experience: quiet environments, physical stores with non-intrusive lighting, and apps with simplified navigation. Inclusive design is no longer limited to physical accessibility but extends to the cognitive and emotional world.

 

Biochemical diversity: A few years ago, we experienced the boom in genderless makeup. Now, the trend is toward cosmetics designed explicitly for diverse hormonal profiles. According to a recent May 2025 issue of Business of Fashion, brands are launching products tailored to the hormonal variations present in transgender and non-binary people, which requires a deep understanding of the context and biochemical needs of the skin in these cases.

 

Multisensory inclusion – texture, sound, and sensory accessibility: Multisensory beauty represents a massive opportunity for innovation in our industry. A recent Allure publication indicates that the future cosmetics will look good and be designed to generate tactile and sonic sensations tailored to different sensitivities. We see very interesting examples in the market, such as lipsticks with low-frequency vibrations for people with hypoesthesia or brushes that generate a tactile buzz to guide people with visual impairments. Even eyeshadow palettes are being created that emit sounds when touched, helping to identify shades through hearing.

 

Cyborg aestheticism and transhumanist inclusion: On the fringes of inclusion, trends are developing that might seem bizarre but are gaining followers among diverse communities, such as queer and transhumanist. According to a Vogue publication from April this year, designers like Hyeon Lim in South Korea and collectives like MetaFlesh in Berlin are exploring makeup designed for robotic prosthetics, artificial skin, or electronic surfaces. In the market, we are seeing the fusion of technologies from other industries with cosmetics, such as the integration of LED circuits, microdevices that react to emotions, and body temperature-activated makeup to create new cosmetic concepts.

 

Black Dandyism: Aesthetic and Cultural Reclamation. Black dandyism has re-emerged as a powerful expression of identity and cultural resistance. This movement, which combines classic elegance with the self-affirmation of Blackness, was the central theme of the 2025 Met Gala, titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”. Designers and artists have reinterpreted this aesthetic, highlighting the importance of representation and diversity in contemporary fashion. This trend is inspiring new cosmetic concepts.

 

Transition cosmetics: An emerging but profoundly relevant trend is that of products that accompany transition processes, not only gender transitions, but also climate and age transitions. The cosmetics industry faces an enormous challenge: elucidating the key biochemical and physiological mechanisms in these transition processes. We will surely see technologies launch with concepts aligned with this trend at upcoming trade shows like In-Cosmetics. We will also see scientific publications on new biochemical mechanisms and their role in transition processes.

 

Adaptive cosmetics for functional diversity: With the evolution of assistive robotics and bioengineering, some brands are creating makeup and personal care products specifically designed for people with paralysis, muscular dystrophy, or amputations. This includes adaptive packaging that opens with one hand, long-lasting formulas that resist prosthetics or mechanical friction, and automated application systems. The focus is on maximizing consumer autonomy and dignity.

 

Biometric Personalization: New devices are on the market that instantly analyze pH, moisture, sebum levels, and microbiome, allowing consumers to receive a hyper-personalized product in record time. There are also new 3D makeup printers for home use, capable of generating products with precise levels of coverage, texture, and pigmentation, based on each user’s preferences, regardless of skin color, gender, or medical condition.

 

Rainbow washing is a practice in which companies or brands use the colors or symbols of LGBTIQ+ pride (rainbow) superficially and without a real commitment to the community. It’s a marketing strategy to appear inclusive and progressive, but it’s not usually accompanied by internal actions or policies that support diversity and inclusion. The cosmetics industry can be considered one of the most inclusive in the world, and companies must carefully design their strategies to avoid rainbow washing, as it can lead to a loss of consumer trust and damage to brands’ reputations.

 

Inclusivity and consistency: Brands must be genuine and consistent in supporting the LGBTQ+ community and other groups, not limited to specific campaigns during Pride Month. They need to reach out to the community and understand their needs and communication styles.

 

Climate inclusivity and geographic diversity: Climate change also influences the inclusive approach to beauty. Some brands are developing products adapted to extreme conditions such as tropical humidity, desert drought, high altitudes, etc. This allows for true geographic inclusion, integrating the specific needs of people living outside the traditional urban centers of the cosmetics market. This trend gives visibility to populations not usually considered in the product design.

 

Radical Inclusion: An interesting article in The New York Times, from February 2025, indicates that some companies are abandoning traditional parameters of “universal beauty” and instead are implementing radical inclusion policies that may involve eliminating recruitment filters that may favor certain aesthetic features, creating campaigns starring people with facial deformities, vitiligo, paralysis, or visible tattoos, and offering makeup lines designed for those who apply makeup with one hand or have limited mobility, to name a few examples.

 

The inclusion of tomorrow will be personalized, collaborative, neurodiverse, biochemical, transhumanist, multisensory, and radically plural. In 2025, new trends not only expand the meaning of beauty but also transform the cosmetics industry into a space of ethical innovation, radical empathy, and authentic representation. From neurodiversity to multisensory design, these trends are not just promises of the future but acts of justice that reshape the present. Brands that understand that inclusion is not a strategy, but a responsibility, will lead an era where every skin, every body, and every story has a place. Beauty is a universal right.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post What is new in inclusion and diversity first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/what-is-new-in-inclusion-and-diversity/feed/ 0 23379