A Skincare Revolution

The Middle East is entering a skincare revolution. For product innovators, brands and everyone in between, a truly extraordinary opportunity is unfolding.

This is a region where beauty has always been celebrated but now skincare is stepping into the spotlight it deserves, in a way that is reshaping the market and demanding innovation.

Despite a population of over 500 million, skincare in the Middle East has historically taken a back seat to dominating fragrance and makeup categories.

In comparison to the rest of the world, it still only accounts for 12–14% of the entire beauty market (Chalhoub Group, 2023). But that’s rapidly changing, with a 30% year-over-year increase (Euromonitor).

Why the Middle East and Why Now?

Let’s start with the numbers. According to Euromonitor, the Middle East beauty market is forecast to grow to $60 billion by the end of 2025.

Last year, the skincare market in the Middle East was valued at $6 billion, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6%. And this isn’t showing any signs of slowing down. The beauty market is driven by several united forces.

A demographic that’s one of the youngest and most beauty-conscious in the world, with over 60% of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) population under 30 and they are not just consuming, they are leading trends.

Digital acceleration and a high social media penetration rate of influencer culture, where TikTok, Instagram and YouTube are driving education and purchases.

Beauty content creators in the region now influence up to 80% of consumer purchase decisions in skincare (Chalhoub Group, 2023). Engagement isn’t just high, it’s conversion rich.

Economic strength and aspiration, thanks to rising disposable incomes and initiatives like Saudi Vision 2030, are fuelling demand for premium and masstige (mass, prestige) categories.

In countries like the UAE, over 80% of the population is expatriates; this diversity is also creating a demand for globally recognised brands that emphasise efficacy and regulatory standards.

This combination has created a skincare-first mindset that prioritises efficacy, inclusivity and cultural authenticity. Repurchasing is driven by performance, where consumers buy because a product speaks to them and then they buy again because it delivers.

Where past generations might have covered up skin concerns with full-coverage foundations, today’s digitally literate consumers are investing in skin longevity. Looking good is no longer just about aesthetics; it’s about self-respect, confidence and cultural pride.

Formulations are not just an afterthought; they are a well-timed response to this growing skincare consciousness.

The Middle Eastern Skincare Consumer

Here’s the thing: today’s Middle Eastern skincare consumer is intentional and well-informed. They’re not impulse buying based on brand hype alone, they research, cross-reference and share their experiences online.

Ingredient literacy is now mainstream and no longer a niche, with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and liquorice root extract among the most searched ingredients in Arabic-language content.

72% of young consumers actively seek science-backed skincare that addresses the region’s extreme climates and their harsh environmental realities, such as heat, humidity, sand, overexposure to air-conditioning and year‑round UV (index 9–12) exposure (Gen Z GCC Skincare Report, 2024).

Their top priorities are hydration, radiance and even skin tone. SPF, once neglected, is now a daily staple, particularly as awareness grows of long-term hyperpigmentation risks for sun-kissed melanin-rich complexions.

Social media doesn’t just inspire, it converts. Beauty creators and “skinfluencers” across the UAE and KSA are increasingly co-developing products with brands, bridging science and culture to accelerate market relevance.

And so, the skincare revolution here isn’t just about beauty trends; it’s about formulation relevance.

Formulating for Climate and Complexion

The Middle East represents a real opportunity for science-led, climate-adapted and heritage-rich skincare.

Consumers prefer lightweight and non-comedogenic formulations, inclusive of skin tones with higher melanin. There’s a rising demand for broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 that works seamlessly with traditional, modest clothing (abayas/ hijabs) without staining, showing how skincare integrates with lifestyle, not just skin type.

At the same time, traditional ingredients like rose water, oud oils, black seed, frankincense and camel milk are being rediscovered through a modern lens.

This heritage of ancestral wisdom, paired with advanced technologies, is where the Middle East could carve its unique path, not copying other global skincare trends, but building something new!

Formulations that offer multi-functionality, sensory appeal and cultural resonance are winning the loyalty of this new skincare consumer by aligning with their values and preferences.

Cultural & Science-backed Storytelling

If you’re eyeing the region, here’s the message: you can’t cut and paste your global strategy here. To localise, not just in language, but in relevance.

By customising approaches, marketing strategies and product offerings to align with the diverse preferences that each country and sometimes regions within a country have. Acknowledging unique cultural, economic and social influences on consumer behaviour rather than applying a one-size-fits-all strategy.

Formulating for the region’s extreme climate with lightweight, melanin-friendly textures (no white cast!), celebrating key Islamic and cultural dates like Eid and National Day and earning trust through science-backed education rather than empty claims.

While the Middle East is significantly influenced by the West, Arabic remains the dominant language. Going beyond translation by adapting content to local customs and sensitivities.

Collaborating with local creators and influencers is non-negotiable, as is agility in e-commerce and mall-driven retail, where trend-responsive launches prosper.

Brands that take this approach are already seeing growth across the biggest key players in the region (the UAE and KSA), both online and in-store.

Regulatory Essentials

The UAE and KSA are the two largest beauty markets in the Middle East, but their regulations and registration timelines differ significantly (3–6 months) depending on the category.

Halal certification is not obligatory, but it is a quick trust‑builder for the region. In the UAE, halal certification is voluntary, but halal-compliant formulations (alcohol-free, halal-sourced animal derivatives) are increasingly expected in mass and masstige segments.

Alcohol denatured for cosmetic purposes may be acceptable in the UAE, but in KSA (via GSO 1943:2016, SFDA), it is more strictly regulated. This attention to faith-based preferences demonstrates the utmost cultural respect and can significantly strengthen brand credibility in the market.

Bilingual labelling in Arabic and English is required, while advertising must stay culturally mindful (no nudity, limited skin exposure or use of explicit language).

A Skincare Renaissance

What’s happening in the Middle East is not a trend, but a seismic shift. Skincare is viewed as an investment in long-term skin health and has become a form of self-expression, wellness and cultural identity.

For formulators, innovators, manufacturers and brands, this is one of the most dynamic and innovation-ready beauty markets in the world.

If the past few years have shown us anything, it’s that the next big formulation opportunity is happening right here, in the Middle East.

Faiza Hussain will be speaking at in-cosmetics Asia about Beauty in the Middle East – Formulating for the Middle Eastern Consumer  on Wed 5 Nov, 12:30. To attend register for your free show badge here

For more Middle East insights and winning strategies in MENA (Middle East & North Africa) connect with Faiza on LinkedIn and at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, 2025.

References

• Chalhoub Group, 2023. Middle East beauty market insights. Chalhoub Group.
• Euromonitor International, 2024. Middle East beauty and skincare market report. Euromonitor.
• Gen Z GCC Skincare Report, 2024. Consumer skincare preferences in the Gulf Cooperation Council region.
• Saudi Food & Drug Authority (SFDA), 2016. GSO 1943:2016 – Cosmetic products safety regulations.
• BeautyMatter (in collaboration with Beautyworld Middle East), 2024. Middle East Beauty Market Report: Past, Present, Future.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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A formulator’s perspective

Let’s address the elephant in the lab: the skincare industry’s fixation on percentages is, at best, a wild oversimplification and at worst, what could be perceived as a marketing ploy that can undermine formulation science.

For those of us in R&D, innovation and manufacturing, the real conversation should centre on how ingredients work together and not just how much is thrown into a formulation.

The allure of high numbers

In today’s digitally savvy skincare market, consumers and marketing teams are increasingly drawn to products boasting high percentages of active ingredients such as 10% niacinamide or 2% salicylic acid.

Vogue Business reported a 229% rise in ingredient-based searches like retinol and vitamin C.

This trend reflects a desire for transparency and efficacy. While this shift towards ingredient awareness is positive, consumers are keen on understanding skincare science.

Focusing only on percentages can be misleading, more isn’t always better (often riskier) and percentages alone rarely predict product performance or safety.

This is why ingredient percentages shouldn’t be the sole factor guiding formulation choices.

Consumer trends

A 2023 Mintel report found that 68% of UK skincare buyers actively seek percentage disclosures, a trend fuelled by social media.

Ingredient-focused searches in South Korea have also surged. Cosmetics Business reports a 168% increase in weekly searches for ‘Korean skincare’, driven largely by terms like kojic acid with buyers prioritise high percentages on labels.

While some brands disclose ingredient percentages to promote transparency, others may use this information as a marketing narrative by inflating numbers such as 20% vitamin C or 10% glycolic acid, even when those concentrations are unnecessary or unstable.

Clinical strength claims

Terms like clinical or medical-grade or 10% potency imply medical efficacy, yet most clinical studies cited by brands are in-house trials with questionable methodology. 78% of in-house studies lack placebo controls (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2023).

For instance, a “10% tranexamic acid” claim may reference a single-arm study (no placebo) on 30 participants, hardly robust evidence (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2022).

Yet independent research (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021) shows that tranexamic acid’s efficacy plateaus at 2–5% in topical formulations.

The greenwashing of percentages

There are brands which claim to be “clean” and are known to market “10% lactic acid” as “natural,” while omitting synthetic stabilisers that are essential for shelf life.

60% of “clean” brands use synthetic stabilisers (pentylene glycol) despite marketing claims, with environmental groups funded by organic brands also fueling this narrative (The Eco Well, 2023).

Regulatory realities (where % matters)

A higher concentration doesn’t always mean better results and can cause irritation.

There are many compliance steps brands must follow when sourcing raw materials, including obtaining certificates of analysis and safety data sheets, ingredient usage guidelines and conducting third-party safety assessments before a product can be sold.

The EU’s Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 governs cosmetic products with strict rules on ingredient limits and safety assessments, to ensure products sold to the market are safe to use on our skin.

For example, alpha-arbutin is limited to 2% and kojic acid at 1% in face products from April 2025 onward. These aren’t arbitrary numbers, data on skin tolerance, long-term exposure and cumulative risk back them.

Salicylic acid in the US is an over-the-counter (OTC) acne ingredient with a 2% FDA monograph limit (21 CFR 333.310).

South Korea’s KFDA regulations sets a 3% tranexamic acid limit for particular claims (Notification 2021-64).

These regulations highlight that the efficacy of an ingredient isn’t solely dependent on its concentration. Factors such as formulation, pH levels and ingredient synergy are key to a product’s performance.

More isn’t always better

The effectiveness of an active ingredient doesn’t necessarily increase with its concentration. Higher percentages can sometimes lead to skin irritation without providing additional benefits.

It’s essential to recognise that the optimal concentration varies depending on the ingredient and individual skin types.

The role of formulation

The percentage of ingredients is just one piece of the efficacy puzzle. The overall performance can depend on factors such as pH levels, delivery systems and the presence of complementary ingredients.

A well-formulated product considers these interactions to maximise benefits and minimise potential adverse effects.

The limits of penetration and bioavailability

A 10% active sounds impressive on a label, but if the formulation lacks the right method of delivering the ingredient into the skin, most of it will sit on the skin’s surface.

The International Journal of Pharmaceutics (2020) showed that some active ingredients require optimised delivery systems to achieve skin penetration.

Delivery systems with 0.3% retinol have shown to outperform 1% basic emulsions (Journal of Controlled Release 2021) with a reduced risk of irritation.

Again, non-delivery systems containing retinol in lower concentrations (0.25-0.5%) can still yield noticeable improvements in fine lines and pigmentation with minimal side effects.

pH and stability

For actives like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and vitamin C, pH is the critical factor and not just a percentage.

A 10% glycolic acid at pH 5 is practically inert, while a 5% formula at pH 3.5 delivers superior exfoliation.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is most effective at a pH below 3.5 and an oxidisable active, above 10% it is unstable.

Yet most brands omit pH disclosure, leaving consumers (and even retailers) none the wiser.

The EU’s Cosmetic Regulation (EC 1223/2009) requires pH data to exist in technical documents (though not public-facing), a loophole that is often misunderstood.

Also, there is no requirement to test/document pH in South Korean regulations unless product is classified as functional (e.g., whitening).

Synergy over strength

A well-formulated 2% salicylic acid with other ingredients outperforms a 4% salicylic acid toner because it leverages multi-mechanistic exfoliation.

Similarly, vitamin C works best when paired with other ingredients designed to stabilise the molecule and enhance antioxidant efficacy and prevent oxidation.

Niacinamide paired with barrier-repairing ingredients outperforms standalone 10% formulation.

Brand marketing often relies on isolated high-percentage actives (e.g., 10% niacinamide), but their minimalist formulations often lack the supporting ingredients needed for optimal performance.

A formulator’s quick guide

Delivery systems or advanced formulation methods

pH optimisation

Stabilisation

Synergistic pairing of ingredients

A call to action for the industry

As formulators and R&D leaders, we must push back against the percentage obsession by:

-Educating retailers and consumers on why 10% isn’t inherently better than 5%.
-Considering patents and delivery systems over isolated actives
-Third party substantiated claims and robust scientific evidence
-Demanding regulatory clarity on pH and stability claims.

The future of skincare isn’t in labels with percentages, it’s in intelligent formulation. Let’s lead with science, not marketing temptations.

While knowing the percentage of active ingredients can provide insight, it’s not the definitive measure of a product’s efficacy.

A thoughtful approach that considers formulation, ingredient synergy, robust scientific evidence and individual skin needs is crucial for achieving desired skincare outcomes. Remember, more isn’t always better, it’s about finding the right balance for your skin.

For more formulation insights, connect with me on LinkedIn and at in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul and in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, 2025. Let’s elevate the conversation beyond percentages.

References:

Vogue Business (2023), Ingredients before brands: The new beauty consumer priority?

Mintel (2023) Transparency trends in UK skincare buying habits.

Cosmetics & Toiletries (2023), Industry survey on clinical claims.

Cosmetics & Toiletries (2022), Tranexamic acid in skincare: Misused metrics.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021) Efficacy of topical tranexamic acid.

The Eco Well (2023) A critical look at the ‘clean’ beauty movement.

International Journal of Pharmaceutics (2020) Penetration enhancers in topical delivery.

British Journal of Dermatology (2020) Niacinamide: Efficacy in skin barrier support.

Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2005) Stabilisation of ascorbic acid with ferulic acid and vitamin E.

Journal of Controlled Release (2021) Liposomal retinol delivery in skincare.

Almeman, A. A. (2024), Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 17, 1661–1685. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S453243

European Commission (2009), Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

U.S. Food & Drug Administration. (n.d.). 21 CFR 333.310: OTC acne treatments monograph.

Korea Food and Drug Administration (2021), KFDA Notification 2021-64: Whitening ingredient concentration limits.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Feeling inspired

In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty, few terms have generated as much recent intrigue as exosomes.

Once limited to regenerative medicine, these nano-sized messengers derived from cellular processes have made their way from aesthetic clinics to one of the most discussed developments in skincare, promising to enhance skin longevity.

At this year’s in-cosmetics Global, several exhibitors notably unveiled exosome and exosome-like innovations, highlighting the growing momentum and diverse applications that are fascinating formulators and manufacturers.

Although exosomes offer advanced solutions, they remain widely misunderstood due to marketing ambiguity, regulatory grey areas and a lack of consumer education about what they truly are and how they work.

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are nanosized (30-150 nm), naturally occurring lipid-encased particles secreted by nearly all cell types in our body, including stem cells.

They are one of two primary types of extracellular vesicles (EVs), the other being ectosomes. Exosomes originate inside the cell and are released into the extracellular environment through exocytosis.

Once thought to be mere cellular debris, these vesicles carry biological material like proteins, lipids, growth factors and genetic material from one cell to another, altering the behaviour and fate of recipient cells.

They’re not living cells like stem cells but naturally function as delivery systems and are now understood to play a crucial role in intercellular communication by modulating immune responses, promoting recovery and regulating inflammation.

A single exosome can carry hundreds to thousands of unique combinations of material inside that reflect the identity and current state of its parent cell. As a result, its molecular payload varies and adapts to the cell’s environment, almost like a tailored response to the body’s needs.

When were exosomes first discovered?

While extracellular vesicles (EVs) were studied as early as the 1950s, the term exosomes was first introduced in the 1980s during studies on reticulocytes (maturing red blood cells), where they were initially observed as vesicles facilitating the removal of obsolete cellular components.

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that immunological research in the US and Europe highlighted their regenerative role as key intercellular communicators.

This sparked interest in Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs)-derived exosomes (from bone marrow) which were shown to aid tissue repair, modulate inflammation and influence fibroblast activity.

By the mid-2010s, thanks to their progressive regulatory landscape South Korea emerged as a global leader in exosome research and development (R&D), particularly in post-laser care, microneedling and many K-beauty products like ampoules and serums.

Today, exosomes are bridging regenerative medicine and advanced skincare delivery systems for their ability to deliver functional molecules with targeted precision.

Where are exosomes sourced from?

Exosomes can be sourced from a diverse range of cells such as human, animal, plant, algae and bacteria cells.

In skincare, due to ethical considerations and regulations they are not extracted from live organisms but instead harvested from cell cultures, such as stem cell–conditioned media, freeze-dried vesicle fragment or plant tissue.

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), often derived from bone marrow, umbilical cord, or adipose tissue produce exosomes rich in growth factors and cytokines that promote skin regeneration.

Regulations in the UK, EU and US currently classify exosomes from these sources as biologicals or drugs if they contain human-derived material, restricting their use in skincare.

Plant-derived (e.g. grape, ginger), milk-derived or probiotic vesicles such as those from Lactobacillus spp. often considered lysates, are being marketed as phyto-exosomes, biosomes or nanoparticles to mimic exosome functions.

These offer more accessible, regulatory accepted, stable, halal and vegan-friendly options for formulators.

Market potential

The global exosomes skincare market is projected to grow from $417.8 million in 2025 to $809.5 million by 2032, with a CAGR of 9.9% (Coherent Market Insights).

This rapid expansion is being driven by consumer demand for regenerative, non-invasive skincare and major R&D investment in biotechnology with Asia-Pacific and North America leading market share.

Skincare science (and limitations)

Exosomes are being increasingly used in skin formulations for accelerating regeneration, supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and promoting collagen synthesis.

In most regulated markets, only non-viable, well characterised and highly purified sources often derived from fermentation or plant origin are permitted.

For formulators and manufacturers, working with exosomes offers exciting potential but also complexity.

Exosomes are highly sensitive to temperature, pH and oxidation making them unstable in conventional emulsions or serums unless stabilised and without proper extraction and delivery methods their benefits are often overestimated.

Many products may not contain viable or functional vesicles by the time they reach the skin. This also presents challenges in ensuring exosome viability throughout manufacturing and shelf life.

The lack of globally accepted standards makes it difficult to confirm presence, purity or dosage, raising concern over efficacy claims they are often marketed for.

To address these limitations alongside regulatory and ethical concerns, formulators are exploring exosome-like alternatives like technologies, synthetic vesicles or engineered peptides- designed to mimic the delivery function of natural exosomes without relying on biologically derived materials.

While not identical in structure or origin, these exosome-like ingredients aim to achieve similar goals; delivering active ingredients deeper into the skin and modulating cellular behaviour.

Importantly, these alternatives offer greater consistency, improved safety profiles and clearer regulatory pathways.

According to recent market data, plant-derived exosome-like products currently make up 39% of the category, largely due to their regulatory accessibility and consumer preference for ethical sourcing.

Marketing transparency

One of the biggest challenges facing exosome skincare is the widespread marketing ambiguity surrounding the term itself ‘exosome’.

Many consumers and even some brands don’t understand what exosomes truly are or confuse them with other technologies.

The term is often used loosely, often without clarifying the source, type or function of the vesicles included in the product.

In some cases, formulations may not contain intact or viable exosomes at all, only lysates, conditioned media or plant-derived mimetics and yet still carry the same regenerative claims.

Without clear labelling or scientific substantiation, consumers are left to navigate vague promises that often suggest stem cell benefits without regulatory backing.

This blurring of definitions dilutes credibility, misinforms users and undermines the truly advanced science behind authentic exosomes.

Regulatory concerns

Currently the most pressing issues surrounding exosome use in skincare is regulatory oversight or lack thereof.

To date, no cosmetic regulatory authority has formally approved human-derived exosomes, especially those from embryonic or foetal stem cells which are classified as biological medicinal products (biologics) or cell-based therapies and not cosmetics (skincare).

Without rigorous purification and documentation, their use in cosmetics is restricted and/ or prohibited across regions such as the UK, EU, US, Canada, South Korea, Japan and Australia.

What makes it even harder is the lack of quality standards as there’s currently no global benchmark for verifying exosome concentration, purity or functionality in skincare.

As a result, many products may list exosomes on the label without containing functionally active material or clearly specifying their source, type or purpose. Standardisation, origin traceability and transparent labelling are essential to build consumer trust and scientific credibility.

This is why formulators are turning to safer, more transparent options like plant- or probiotic-derived alternatives, which are easier to regulate and formulate.

Final thoughts

Exosomes are a fascinating breakthrough at the intersection of biology, biotechnology and skincare.

While they’ve shown therapeutic potential, exosomes are still largely in the research phase and most supporting evidence demonstrating their skin-related benefits are limited (lab-based cell culture) or animal model studies.

Human clinical trials (in-vivo) remain scarce, mostly investigating wound or scar healing, highlighting an opportunity for innovators to lead with science.

While true exosomes are still in regulatory limbo, exosome-like systems offer a promising alternative, particularly those that are more stable, scalable and aligned with consumer values.

Did you know that there will be a special focus on Biotech Beauty at in-cosmetics Asia this year?

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

References

Mendt, M., Kamerkar, S., & Alt, E. (2019). MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative therapy and beyond. Frontiers in Cell and Developmental Biology

Phinney, D.G., & Pittenger, M.F. (2017). MSC-derived exosomes for cell-free therapy. Molecular Therapy

Alcayaga-Miranda, F., Cuenca, J., & Khoury, M. (2017). Harnessing the immunomodulatory properties of MSC-derived exosomes for regenerative medicine applications. Stem Cell Research & Therapy

Pan, B.T., Teng, K., Wu, C., Adam, M. and Johnstone, R.M., 1985. Electron microscopic evidence for externalization of the transferrin receptor in vesicular form in sheep reticulocytes. Journal of Cell Biology, 101(3), pp.942–948. doi:10.1083/jcb.101.3.942

Caplan AI. Mesenchymal stem cells. J Orthop Res. 1991;9:641–650. doi: 10.1002/jor.1100090504

Harding CV, Heuser JE, Stahl PD. Exosomes: looking back three decades and into the future. J Cell Biol. 2013 Feb 18;200(4):367-71. doi: 10.1083/jcb.201212113. Erratum in: J Cell Biol. 2013 Apr 29;201(3):485. PMID: 23420870; PMCID: PMC3575527

Charbord P. Bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells: historical overview and concepts. Hum Gene Ther. 2010 Sep;21(9):1045-56. doi: 10.1089/hum.2010.115. PMID: 20565251; PMCID: PMC4823383

Woith, E.; Fuhrmann, G.; Melzig, M.F. Extracellular Vesicles—Connecting Kingdoms. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019, 20, 5695. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20225695

Bin Zhang, Mei Wang, Aihua Gong, Xu Zhang, Xiaodan Wu, Yanhua Zhu, Hui Shi, Lijun Wu, Wei Zhu, Hui Qian, Wenrong Xu, HucMSC-Exosome Mediated-Wnt4 Signaling Is Required for Cutaneous Wound Healing, Stem Cells, Volume 33, Issue 7, July 2015, Pages 2158–2168, https://doi.org/10.1002/stem.1771

Kim YJ, Yoo SM, Park HH, Lim HJ, Kim YL, Lee S, Seo KW, Kang KS. Exosomes derived from human umbilical cord blood mesenchymal stem cells stimulates rejuvenation of human skin. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2017 Nov 18;493(2):1102-1108. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2017.09.056

The global skincare market is embracing longevity-focused skincare, with some retailers worldwide introducing ‘slow-ageing’ corners. This shift signals a major move toward products that enhance skin function over time rather than offering temporary anti-ageing solutions. 

The beauty industry consistently looks to South Korea for the latest skincare innovations, and as a product innovator, I do too. As formulators and raw material manufacturers, we know that skincare breakthroughs don’t just happen overnight.  

Novel ingredients and innovative product formulations are usually the result of years of clinical research, clinical studies and consumer feedback. All in the pursuit of developing something truly remarkable that could become a household name. 

If you’ve been paying close attention to ingredient advancements and seen the buzz around salmon DNA injections, you’re already familiar with the latest star ingredient in K-beauty, ‘Polydeoxyribonucleotides’ (PDRNs). 

What started as a viral skin-boosting injectable, brands are now racing to integrate this DNA-derived regenerative ingredient into serums, creams and even sheet masks, quickly becoming a global sensation. 

What exactly is Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)?

PDRNs are low-molecular-weight DNA fragments commonly extracted from salmon or trout, clinically proven to stimulate fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells), enhance tissue repair and boost hydration levels deep within the skin (Shin et al., 2023).  

Molecularly, PDRN ranges from 50 to 1,500 kDa, meaning it’s small enough to trigger biological activity yet substantial enough to support long-term skin repair.  

PDRN activates A2A adenosine receptors, which regulate anti-inflammatory responses, promote cell growth and stimulate new blood vessel formation. This improves oxygen and nutrient delivery to the skin, key for skin longevity.  

PDRN’s origins: From regenerative medicine to beauty

PDRN originated in Italy in the early 1980s as a breakthrough in wound healing and regenerative medicine. 

It was first documented as an active component in human placenta extracts, used to treat radiation-induced skin lesions (radiodermatitis) and repair damaged tissue through a PDRN-rich ointment. 

By the 1990s and 2000s, clinical studies revealed PDRN as a bioactive mixture of short DNA fragment chain lengths between (50–2,000 base pairs), tiny DNA sequences that help the body repair and grow new cells. 

Research demonstrated that PDRN significantly stimulates fibroblast proliferation, leading to increased collagen production and accelerated wound recovery (Tonello et al., 1996).  

This led to the development of the first PDRN-based injectable tissue regenerating formulation, derived from placental extracts. 

However, due to ethical and supply limitations of human placenta, manufacturers turned to alternative sources, such as salmon DNA and microbial fermentation. 

From there, PDRN quickly transitioned into cosmetic dermatology, expanding across different industries and regions. 

Aesthetic clinical trials validated its effectiveness in improving skin elasticity, texture and fine wrinkles, securing its place as a regenerative cosmetic treatment. By the early 2010s, PDRN-based treatments became widely recognised as “skin boosters”. 

PDRN in skincare formulation

The adoption in dermatology clinics is especially notable in South Korea, a study by Kim et al. in 2023 reported that 88% considered PDRN-based skin boosters among the most in-demand injectable treatments. 

As K-Beauty continues to influence global skincare trends, PDRN is the next “must-have” ingredient, evolving from injectables to skincare.  

Leading K-Beauty brands are already incorporating PDRN into their formulations, with some shifting from salmon-derived sources to sustainable, bioengineered alternatives that maintain the same DNA profile if not better. 

Regulatory guidelines vary by region, with PDRN usage concentrations typically ranging from 0.1% to 2.0% in formulations. This opens up new opportunities for formulators and manufacturers to expand PDRN’s global reach. 

PDRN formulation considerations 

While PDRN works brilliantly as an injectable skin booster, incorporating it into skincare presents formulation challenges.  

Primarily due to molecular size and penetration, large molecular size makes skin penetration difficult, requiring advanced methods to improve bioavailability. As for stability concerns, PDRN is a nucleotide-based ingredient, requiring stabilisation to prevent degradation.  

Microneedling therapy has emerged as revolutionary, as studies show PDRN serums combined with microneedling improve absorption, skin density and elasticity. 

The industry is rapidly shifting toward plant-based and bioengineered PDRNs, offering sustainability without compromising efficacy. This reflects the fast-paced innovations emerging in the skincare industry. 

The future of PDRN in beauty  

PDRN’s journey from 1980s regenerative medicine to modern skincare formulations is a testament to the power of science-backed innovations in cosmetic science. 

With the right formulation and delivery, PDRN based skincare offers unparalleled benefits, enhancing hydration, improving texture and strengthening skin resilience. 

Once again, K-Beauty has transformed a regenerative innovation into a mainstream skincare breakthrough and as a formulator, I look forward to seeing how PDRN continues to evolve. 

The global demand of PDRN skincare proves one thing, consumers are prioritising scientifically backed, results-driven formulations. With its proven efficacy and rising popularity, PDRN is set to reshape longevity-focused skincare for years to come. 

References: 

Thellung, S., Florio, T., Maragliano, A., Cattarini, G., & Schettini, G. (1999). Polydeoxyribonucleotides enhance the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts: Involvement of A₂ purinergic receptor subtypes. Life Sciences, 64(18), 1661–1674. 

Nguyen TH, Wang SL, Nguyen VB. Recent advances on polydeoxyribonucleotide extraction and its novel application in cosmeceuticals. Int J Biol Macromol. 2024 Dec;282(Pt 3):137051. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.137051. Epub 2024 Oct 30. PMID: 39486723. 

European Patent Office (2022) Cosmetic composition and method for lightening the skin. Patent No. EP3964577NWA1.   

Muratore O, Pesce Schito A, Cattarini G, Tonoli EL, Gianoglio S, Schiappacasse S, Felli L, Picchetta F, Schito GC. Evaluation of the trophic effect of human placental polydeoxyribonucleotide on human knee skin fibroblasts in primary culture. Cell Mol Life Sci. 1997 Mar;53(3):279-85. doi: 10.1007/pl00000605. PMID: 9104493; PMCID: PMC11147285. 

Shin SM, Baek EJ, Kim KH, Kim KJ, Park EJ. Polydeoxyribonucleotide exerts opposing effects on ERK activity in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Mol Med Rep. 2023 Aug;28(2):148. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2023.13035. Epub 2023 Jun 23. PMID: 37350391; PMCID: PMC10308489. 

Kim, B.J., Lee, S.Y., & Park, J.H. (2023). A survey on the cosmetic use of injectable polynucleotide: The pattern of practice among Korean dermatologists. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(3), 123-130. 

Squadrito F, Bitto A, Irrera N, Pizzino G, Pallio G, Minutoli L, Altavilla D. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN. Front Pharmacol. 2017 Apr 26;8:224. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2017.00224. Erratum in: Front Pharmacol. 2022 Nov 21;13:1073510. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2022.1073510. PMID: 28491036; PMCID: PMC5405115. 

Rho NK, Han KH, Cho M, Kim HS. A survey on the cosmetic use of injectable polynucleotide: The pattern of practice among Korean Dermatologists. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1243-1252. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16125. Epub 2023 Dec 13. PMID: 38093498.

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In an era marked by heightened emotional stress and environmental pressures, prioritising wellness and self-care has become an essential part of daily life.

In fact, 80% of global consumers now prioritise health as a lifestyle, with wellness-driven products increasingly being incorporated into self-care routines (Global Wellness Institute, 2023).

This shift is also reshaping the beauty industry, as wellness becomes a shared priority in skincare. Moving beyond products that focus solely on external appearance but addressing both external and internal stressors in the pursuit of longevity.

Wellness isn’t being recognised as just a passing trend, it’s becoming a lifestyle. 62% of consumers now seek skincare products that not only improve their appearance but also enhance emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023).

This growing demand for products that deliver both physical and mental health benefits together has led to the rise of wellness-driven skincare, which is pushing the boundaries of beauty and wellness.

Wellness-driven skincare is expected to dominate the market, reaching $200 billion by 2030 as consumers prioritise their overall health (Statista, 2023).

While regional regulations traditionally define skincare (under cosmetics) as products aimed solely at improving the physical appearance of the skin, this view is evolving, especially with technological advancements and ingredient efficacy.

Consumers are actively looking for solutions that go beyond just the surface of their skin. They want products that align with mindful, self-care rituals that support overall well-being and deliver internal benefits.

As a result, this beauty-wellness intersection is transforming the industry and formulators have new opportunities to innovate and meet this evolving demand.

The growing understanding of how ingredients affect skin function, including stress-induced skin concerns and the mind-skin connection, is pushing formulations beyond the surface. Wellness-driven skincare is creating new avenues for formulators to explore.

The science behind the mind-skin connection

The mind-skin connection is more than just a buzzword, it’s scientifically studied. Chronic stress triggers the release of cortisol, a hormone that disrupts the skin barrier function, increases inflammation and accelerates ageing by breaking down collagen (Chen & Lyga, 2014).

A 2022 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that stress-induced cortisol can lead to dryness, sensitivity and even conditions like acne and eczema.

This growing understanding of how emotions impact skin health is driving demand for products that address both external and internal stressors.

For example, neurocosmetic ingredients like peptides have been shown to reduce stress-induced skin tension, offering a dual-action approach to skincare (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019).

Market momentum: By the numbers

The global wellness industry is valued at $5.6 trillion (2023), growing at a 10% CAGR, with skincare as a major driver (Global Wellness Institute).

Consumers now look for skincare products that also improve emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023), while adaptogen-infused product launches have seen significant growth in recent years, reflecting the rising demand (In-cosmetics Global, 2023).

In the Asia-Pacific region, where wellness-driven skincare is particularly popular, the market is projected to grow at an 8.5% CAGR through 2030 (Statista, 2023).

South Korean brands are leading the charge with products that combine hydration, anti-ageing and stress-relieving benefits.

Regulatory considerations

As the demand for wellness-driven skincare grows, brands must balance innovation with compliance as regulatory compliance becomes increasingly important.

Claims like “stress-relieving” or “mood-boosting” must be substantiated, pushing formulators and manufacturers to invest in clinical trials and comply with regulations like EU 655/2013 to avoid being classified as medicinal products.

Furthermore, aligning with ISO 16128 standards for natural origin claims is essential for building consumer trust and meeting sustainability expectations.

The feel-good factor: Self-care as empowerment

Modern consumers view skincare as a form of self-care, a daily act of mindfulness, promoting both skin health and emotional balance.

For formulators, this means understanding the growing mind-skin connection and pairing ingredients with calming or energising properties with tactile textures in their formulations.

This shift is creating new opportunities to innovate and aligns with the “emotional beauty” trend, where 74% of beauty consumers prefer “skin wellness” products over traditional anti-ageing claims (BeautyMatter, 2024).

Star ingredients in wellness skincare formulations

As wellness becomes a key driver in skincare, ingredients like adaptogens, neurocosmetics and aromatherapeutic ingredients are taking center stage. These ingredients help the skin respond to environmental and emotional stressors, which are increasingly linked to skin concerns.

Adaptogens

Already becoming a global stress-busting powerhouse, adaptogens are ingredients that help the skin adapt to stress, reduce inflammation and support long-term resilience.

In skincare, adaptogenic ingredients like Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) and Rhodiola Rosea are gaining popularity, with clinical evidence supporting their anti-inflammatory and oxidative damage-reducing properties (Panossian et al., 2021).

EU regulations (EC No 1223/2009) ensuring efficacy claims like “calming” or “resilience-boosting” are substantiated with robust clinical evidence. This reinforces consumer trust and ensures compliance with regional regulatory standards.

Neurocosmetics

Neurocosmetics aim to improve skin health while also enhancing emotional balance, relaxation and mental well-being through sensory experiences. These multifunctional ingredients interact with the skin’s sensory receptors, which can positively affect mood and reduce stress levels.

Neurocosmetics can trigger a positive response in the brain while supporting skin health, creating an essential part of wellness skincare.

For example, peptides can help reduce stress-induced tension, while Cannabidiol (CBD) is known for its skin-calming properties (Baswan et al., 2020).

Aromatherapeutic ingredients

Mood-enhancing essential oils like chamomile extract and lavender oil provide aromatherapeutic benefits, reducing anxiety and promoting relaxation.

These ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into skincare (within recommended dermal limits) to boost mental health through sensual olfactory stimulation and enhancing the overall self-care experience.

The Future is Ingredients Bridging the Gap Offering Both Skincare and Wellness Benefits

The future of skincare is undoubtedly intertwined with wellness, with the growing mind-skin connection becoming a central focus for formulators and manufacturers.

As science and consumer demands evolve, the industry has an exciting opportunity to innovate, creating products that go beyond surface-level beauty and address overall health and well-being.

References:

Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169.

Baswan SM, Klosner AE, Glynn K, Rajgopal A, Malik K, Yim S, Stern N. Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Dec 8;13:927-942. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S286411. PMID: 33335413; PMCID: PMC7736837.

Panossian AG, Efferth T, Shikov AN, Pozharitskaya ON, Kuchta K, Mukherjee PK, Banerjee S, Heinrich M, Wu W, Guo DA, Wagner H. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress- and aging-related diseases. Med Res Rev. 2021 Jan;41(1):630-703. doi: 10.1002/med.21743. Epub 2020 Oct 25. PMID: 33103257; PMCID: PMC7756641.

Truong VL, Jeong WS. Red ginseng (Panax ginseng Meyer) oil: A comprehensive review of extraction technologies, chemical composition, health benefits, molecular mechanisms, and safety. J Ginseng Res. 2022 Mar;46(2):214-224. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2021.12.006. Epub 2021 Dec 17. PMID: 35509821; PMCID: PMC9058829.

Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066.

Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702. PMID: 34451799; PMCID: PMC8400021.

Ebrahimi H, Mardani A, Basirinezhad MH, Hamidzadeh A, Eskandari F. The effects of Lavender and Chamomile essential oil inhalation aromatherapy on depression, anxiety and stress in older community-dwelling people: A randomized controlled trial. Explore (NY). 2022 May-Jun;18(3):272-278. doi: 10.1016/j.explore.2020.12.012. Epub 2021 Jan 9. PMID: 33454232.

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The start of the year presents an opportunity for the cosmetics and personal care industry to reflect on past innovations, identify new gaps and cultivate fresh ideas.

Product innovation refers to developing new or significantly improved products to meet market demands, address existing problems or create entirely new markets.

According to the Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report (2023), global sales in this sector are projected to reach $937.1 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.7%.

It is a critical driver of business growth and competitive advantage, where consumer preferences and scientific and technological advancements are constantly evolving.

Yet, as consumer preferences continue to evolve, product innovations must also adapt – not only to meet these demands but also to address the pressing challenges of rapid innovation cycles, product oversaturation, consumer fatigue and the environmental toll of overconsumption.

Multi-functional Products

The skincare sector in particular is witnessing a key transition towards multi-functional products favouring efficacy and substantiation, efficiency over complexity, driven by busy lifestyles and a desire to reduce environmental impact.
Multi-functional products are developed to address multiple concerns and/or provide multiple benefits within a single formulation. Examples include:

• A moisturiser that hydrates, brightens and protects against UV damage.
• A serum that combines anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.
• A cleanser with exfoliating and moisturising capabilities.

Why It Matters in Skincare

• Efficiency: Saves time by reducing the number of steps in a routine.
• Convenience: Combines multiple benefits in one product.
• Sustainability: Reduces overconsumption, packaging waste and resource usage.

These products are reshaping product innovation and influencing purchasing behaviours by offering thoughtful and purposeful solutions.

According to Credence Research (2023), the global market for functional cosmetics, including multi-functional skincare, is projected to grow to $68.1 billion by 2032, reflecting a CAGR of 3.06%. Similarly, the hybrid makeup market, which includes products offering skincare benefits alongside cosmetic functions, is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1% by 2030 (Grand View Research, 2023).

Despite the rapid pace of product launches, these figures underscore a notable consumer shift – people want fewer products that do more. For formulators and manufacturers, there is a clear opportunity to drive innovation by developing impactful products that withstand the test of time. Incorporating compatible ingredients into a single formulation demonstrates how multi-functional solutions can deliver both efficacy and convenience.

Challenges in Rethinking Innovation

While the advantages of multi-functional products are obvious, they present both opportunities and challenges for formulators and manufacturers, requiring careful consideration of various factors:

• Ingredient Compatibility

Combining multiple active ingredients into one stable and effective formulation is a complex task, requiring pH balancing and delivery optimisation to maintain stability and efficacy.

• Consumer Expectations

Consumers have raised the bar for communication and are digitally informed, they expect content that is fast, relevant and authentically will keep them engaged and coming back for more. Formulators and manufacturers alike are encouraged to communicate the science behind their multi-functional products, avoiding unsubstantiated claims.

• Advanced Technologies

Delivery systems can enhance the performance of combined actives. These systems ensure that each active ingredient retains its potency and targets the skin effectively.

• Sustainability

True innovation also means considering the entire product lifecycle. From sourcing sustainable raw materials to incorporating eco-friendly packaging, every step should reflect a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Despite these challenges, several strategies can help formulators and manufacturers deliver impactful innovations.

Solutions: Key Elements for Success

1. Synergistic Ingredient Combinations

Successful multi-functional products rely on synergistic ingredient pairings.

For example:

• Niacinamide and Peptides: Working together, these ingredients boost the skin’s barrier function and support skin longevity.
• Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: This combination delivers intense hydration and reinforces the skin’s natural barrier, effectively addressing dryness.

2. Advanced Delivery Systems

Technological advancements can allow formulators to combine ingredients delivering protective benefits without compromising stability. They allow formulators to use fewer raw materials with higher yields, minimising environmental impact while maximising product effectiveness.

3. Sustainability at the Core

Brands can reduce their environmental footprint by utilising refillable packaging to minimise waste and incorporating biodegradable materials into both packaging and product design. This approach has the potential to lower raw material usage, shipping costs and development expenses by streamlining ingredient selection and considering the entire product lifecycle of a product from its foundation.

Marketing Opportunities

• Ingredient combinations such as exfoliating acids and antioxidants demonstrate the growing demand for multi-functional products by refining pores, brightening skin and providing hydration. A single formulation can also tackle elasticity, pigmentation and overall skin health, making it even more appealing to consumers.

• Target demographics like millennials make up a significant proportion of the population in many countries around the world and prioritise products with substantiated claims and long-term benefits.

Rethinking product innovation is an essential strategy for staying competitive in today’s cosmetic and personal care landscape. Multi-functional, multi-tasking skincare offers a clear pathway to address consumer demands for simplicity, efficacy and sustainability while reducing environmental impact.

By adopting advanced technologies or methods of delivery, prioritising sustainability and focusing on ingredient synergy, formulators and manufacturers can shape a future where innovation aligns with values.

Now is the perfect moment to rethink product innovation that resonates with consumers and redefines industry standards.

References:

1. Credence Research. (2023). Functional Cosmetics Market Growth.
2. Grand View Research. (2023). Hybrid Makeup Market Report.
3. Harris Williams. (2023). Consumer Spending Trends in Beauty.
4. Ainapure, A. (2023). Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report

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Halal cosmetics represent a burgeoning niche in the beauty industry, driven by ethical and permissible production principles under Islamic law and specifically aimed at Muslim consumers.

The demand for Halal cosmetics is driven by a growing global Muslim population, with over 2 billion and representing almost 28.7% of the world’s population.

This represents a vast, untapped market in many countries. Euromonitor identifies Halal cosmetics as targeting one of the fastest-growing consumer groups worldwide.

The global Halal cosmetics market was valued at $42.39 billion in 2023 and is expected to reach $47.76 billion in 2024. By 2032, it is projected to grow significantly to approximately $115.03 billion. Exhibiting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 11.61%. In 2023, Asia Pacific dominated the market with a substantial market share of 64.87%.

Understanding Halal

The term “Halal” means “permissible” in Arabic and is used to designate products and practices under Islamic law. While commonly associated with food and drink, the concept of Halal also extends to cosmetics and personal care products.

Halal cosmetics are formulated without prohibited (Haram) ingredients derived from sources such as pork or alcohol, adhering to specific ethical and cleanliness requirements throughout their production, packaging, labelling, distribution and logistics processes.

This comprehensive approach ensures that from the initial stages of ingredient sourcing to the final sale of the product, the full product life cycle complies with Halal standards. By maintaining this systematic adherence, Halal cosmetics uphold their integrity and fulfil religious standards throughout the entirety of their supply chain.

According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2023/2024, Muslim consumers spent about $2.29 trillion in 2022 across various sectors, including cosmetics. This growing demand highlights the opportunity for brands and manufacturers to cater to one of the fastest-growing consumer markets globally.

As more consumers seek products that align with their ethical and religious beliefs, the market for Halal cosmetics expands, offering several opportunities:

• Market Expansion: Halal certification opens doors to markets in Muslim-majority countries and among Muslim consumers worldwide, providing a significant opportunity for growth in the cosmetics industry.

• Consumer Trust and Loyalty: Halal certification builds trust and loyalty among Muslim consumers who prioritise adherence to their religious principles. This trust can translate into brand loyalty and increased market share.

• Ethical Appeal: Halal cosmetics appeal to a broader audience beyond Muslim consumers, including those who prioritise ethical and quality beauty products.

The rigorous standards for purity and ethical sourcing resonate with conscientious consumers globally.

Regulatory Requirements

Regulatory requirements for Halal cosmetics vary by region but generally follow a comprehensive certification process covering all aspects of the product lifecycle from sourcing to distribution.

There are approximately 57 global certification agencies authorised to certify products according to Halal cosmetics standards. Certification bodies, such as the Islamic Services of America (ISA) and other local and international entities, rigorously review ingredients and inspect production facilities to ensure compliance with Halal standards.

In countries with significant Muslim populations, such as Indonesia and Malaysia, regulations are particularly stringent. Since 2019, Indonesia has introduced mandatory Halal certification and labelling rules, which have set a precedent and opened new channels for market growth. The Department of Islamic Development Malaysia (JAKIM) is a prominent certifying body within Malaysia ensuring cosmetic products meet Halal standards.

Certification ensures that products meet the required standards of purity, safety and ethical sourcing. Key elements considered during certification include:

• Ingredient Sourcing: Ingredients must not come from prohibited (Haram) sources. For example, Halal standards strictly prohibit pork and its derivatives. Animal-derived ingredients must originate from animals slaughtered according to Islamic traditions, which involve the draining of blood to eliminate toxins and potential diseases.

• Manufacturing Process: The entire production process must be free from contamination with prohibited substances. This includes ensuring that manufacturing equipment and storage facilities are not used for both Halal and non-Halal products without proper cleaning procedures.

• Packaging and Labelling: Products must be clearly labelled as Halal, often including certifications from recognised Halal certification bodies. Halal labelling in cosmetics extends beyond the controversial “free from” category, which includes claims such as “free from alcohol” or “free from pork products.” This transparency helps Muslim consumers make informed choices.

Adhering to Halal cosmetic standards ensures compliance with regulations in Muslim-majority countries, facilitating smoother market entry and operations. Offering Halal-certified products can differentiate brands in a crowded marketplace, appealing to conscious consumers seeking high standards of quality and ethics.

Implementation in Formulations

Implementing Halal standards in cosmetic formulations requires careful selection and sourcing of ingredients. Here are key considerations:

• Prohibited Ingredients: Alcohol and pork-derived ingredients are strictly prohibited. Even incidental contact with these substances during manufacturing is not allowed.

• Permissible Animal-derived Ingredients: Ingredients such as Lanolin and beeswax are permissible if sourced ethically. Other animal-derived ingredients such as gelatine, collagen and keratin are acceptable only if the animals were slaughtered according to Islamic traditions.

• Microbiological Ingredients: Ingredients like Hyaluronic acid, derived from microbial fermentation, are accepted under specific conditions. Manufacturers must ensure these processes do not involve prohibited substances or derivatives of pork and alcohol.

As the Halal cosmetics market continues to grow, it offers significant opportunities for brands and manufacturers to innovate and strengthen consumer trust and loyalty. These products not only satisfy the religious obligations of Muslim consumers but also align with the increasing demand for ethical choices, positioning them well for global expansion.

With Asia Pacific leading the market in 2023 with a dominant 64.87% share and a robust compound annual growth rate of 11.61%, the future looks promising for Halal cosmetics to continue their upward trajectory in the beauty industry.

References:

1. ISA Halal. (2023). A glimpse into the global Halal industry 2023. Retrieved from https://www.isahalal.com/news-events/blog/glimpse-global-halal-industry-2023

2. DinarStandard. (2024). 2024 global Halal market trends: Highlights from DinarStandard report. Retrieved from https://www.halaltimes.com/2024-global-halal-market-trends-highlights-from-dinarstandards-report/

3. Alzeer, J., & Hadeed, K. A. (2021). “Ethical and hygiene aspects of Halal food.” Trends in Food Science & Technology, 113, 208-216.

4. Golnaz, R., Zainalabidin, M., Nasir Shamsudin, M., & Mad Nasir, S. (2010). “Non-Muslims’ awareness of Halal principles and related food products in Malaysia.” International Food Research Journal, 17(3), 667-674.

5. Husain, R., Ghani, N. I. A., & Zainuddin, N. F. (2017). “Halal cosmetics: A review on ingredients, production, and certification.” Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(1), 1-13.

6. Wilson, J. A., & Liu, J. (2011). “The challenges of Islamic branding: navigating emotions and Halal.” Journal of Islamic Marketing, 2(1), 28-42.

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Whoever said beauty is only skin deep has never heard of Neurocosmetics. The link between the skin and mind is one of the biggest trends in beauty and personal care right now.

Neurocosmetics refers to a specialised category of skincare products that are designed to interact with the skin’s nervous system. A ground-breaking approach to skincare formulations that focuses on the intricate relationship between the skin and the brain often referred to as the “skin-brain axis”.

The skin is not just a waterproof barrier that protects our body from harmful environmental factors and microbial invasions, it also functions to regulate our body temperature. It is one of the body’s largest organs with its own immune system and a vast network of nerve cells that communicate directly with your brain and can sense and respond to various triggers.

As a sensory and protective organ, it is capable of feeling touch, pain, heat, and cold. This is possible because of its dense network of nerves consisting of different types of receptors and nerve fibres located within the dermis. The skin senses various stimuli and transmits this sensory information to the brain for processing.

Neurocosmetics transcend beyond the traditional role of improving skin appearance that targets just superficial issues like wrinkles or dehydration. They enhance the longevity of skin health and well-being by using specific ingredients that influence the neural receptors in the skin.

These receptors detect different triggers like temperature, pressure and pain, creating sensations such as cooling, warming or relief from discomfort. Sensory ingredients can trigger pleasurable sensory experiences (cooling and warming) impacting both the skin’s sensory perception and the product’s perceived efficacy.

When these products activate skin receptors, they can modulate skin cell functions and directly affect nerve endings. This changes how neurotransmitters, the brain’s chemical messengers are released.

Special neuron cells in the skin can become activated by stress or irritation, releasing neurotransmitters (chemicals) that alter the skin’s appearance and texture. This can impair the skin’s barrier function and affect our mood by causing stress through the release of hormones such as cortisol.

Cell-communicating ingredients are versatile, actively working to reduce inflammation and relax expression muscles, which contributes to smoother skin and balanced cortisol levels.

Neuropeptides are specialised molecules that are biomimetic and can mimic the natural processes in the body, like those that calm down nerve signals. Other ingredients can interact with nerve endings in the skin, influencing cellular activities such as collagen production and skin barrier enhancement.

Engaging the senses through the smell and feel of a product can have a positive impact on the nervous system and well-being. Tactile and olfactory ingredients can influence the texture and scent of products and play significant roles in the sensory impact of Neurocosmetics, influencing stress levels and trigger positive emotions through olfactory stimulation.

A multi-sensory experience can feature calming aromatherapeutic scents or a skincare routine to contribute to a more relaxed and positive feeling, hence improving mood. This interaction is mediated by several mechanisms, including neurological, immunological and hormonal pathways.

Neurocosmetic ingredients can modulate essential chemicals in the skin in a way that is similar to the body’s natural brain chemicals. This can help to prolong the life of skin cells and mitigate the skin’s response to stress and inflammation. These ingredients interact with neurotransmitters in the skin, which makes them more active by influencing the nervous system.

As a result of this, they provide anti-ageing benefits by penetrating the skin barrier and working on the surface. For instance, a moisturiser might contain ingredients such as peptides, adaptogens or probiotics that can reduce inflammation, calm the skin and reduce the sensation of discomfort or stress, a common nuance experienced by menopausal skin.

The field of Neurocosmetics is expanding as scientific research and innovative technologies progress and consumer interest in skin health solutions grows. Ingredient selection is key in Neurocosmetics and there are numerous ways to incorporate them into a formulation.

The physiological effects of Neurocosmetic formulas with emotional potential to affect human skin sensory neuron activity, aligns with the wellness movement and positions it at the forefront of innovation in the beauty industry.

References

1. Slominski A, Wortsman J. Neuroendocrinology of the skin. Endocr Rev. 2000 Oct;21(5):457-87. doi: 10.1210/edrv.21.5.0410. Erratum in: Endocr Rev 2002 Jun;23(3):364. PMID: 11041445.
2. Martins AM, Ascenso A, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. The Brain-Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells. 2020 Mar 26;9(4):796. doi: 10.3390/cells9040796. PMID: 32224981; PMCID: PMC7226493.
3. Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
4. Dayan N. Skin Aging Handbook [Electronic Resource] : An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development / Edited by Nava Dayan. William Andrew; 2008.

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Skincare has become a monumental movement as one of the beauty industry’s most dynamic categories, with all generations being a part of it.

It offers a diverse range of products from moisturisers and cleansers to serums, toners and masks, with a wide array of ingredients to meet different skin needs and goals. At its core, the primary purpose of skincare is to support the health, integrity and appearance of our skin.

To ensure the safety, efficacy and accurate labelling of skincare products, regional regulations are established so that we can make informed decisions about their uses and benefits. Some regulations, particularly those defining skincare (under cosmetics) as products that work only superficially, may not reflect our current understanding of ingredient functionality and innovative formulation capabilities.

Underpinned by robust science, skincare involves understanding the skin’s layered structure and its various functions.

Our skin is one of the largest, yet complex organs, that primarily acts as a very good selective and protective barrier against external aggressors like UV rays and pollution, maintaining it against infection, while regulating body temperature and retaining hydration.

Skincare science involves a thorough understanding of skin physiology and the interaction of ingredients with the skin and each other. Ingredients are selected to address specific concerns and their effectiveness is influenced by their formulation and how they are absorbed by the skin, as some active ingredients work at the cellular level to enhance skin function.

The formulation process involves selecting and combining ingredients, optimising pH levels and balancing actives for stability and effectiveness.

Ingredient compatibility is key to a product’s effectiveness and stability testing is vital to prevent unwanted reactions. This can be based on clinical research, whether ingredients are synthetic or naturally derived.

The idea that natural is inherently safer is a misconception. Yes, natural ingredients can be safe and are lovely to work with BUT rather than assuming safety, the same safety regulations we apply to synthetic materials should also be applied to the natural ones, including natural skincare.

The effectiveness of skincare is largely determined by how ingredients interact with the outermost layer of the skin.

We often hear that higher concentrations of ingredients guarantee better performance or deeper penetration. Some ingredients are designed to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, but this requires a thorough understanding of the skin’s structure, specifically the stratum corneum which is the main obstacle of skin penetration.

Skincare is supposed to work on the surface, but emphasises how well it works with the skin’s surface to give us desired results because that’s what skincare is supposed to do.

The penetration of ingredients depends on their physicochemical properties and the technologies introduced at a formulation level.

The molecular size and structure of ingredients determine their ability to penetrate the skin. Advanced technologies and delivery systems are used to enhance absorption. There are rules for penetration, such as having a molecular weight under 500 Daltons and a specific partition coefficient.

Some ingredients are formulated to reach cells to stimulate collagen production and target fibroblasts. However, many ingredients serve us better when they act on the skins surface and are not supposed to penetrate deeply.

Penetration is not always desirable, as some potential sensitisers could cause adverse reactions or granulomas. The compatibility of ingredients is key to the overall effectiveness of a skincare product.

Some ingredients may enhance or inhibit the efficacy of others, making it essential to understand their interactions. Stability testing ensures that no undesirable reactions occur when ingredients are mixed in a formulation.

The stability of ingredients also ensures they remain at full efficacy when reacting with the skin’s surface to the delivery into the skin to where it can really make a difference.

Clinical trials, involving human volunteers under dermatologically controlled conditions, using various instrumental tools with advanced capabilities assess the safety and efficacy of skincare products. They provide data on hydration, texture, elasticity and overall skin improvement.

These trials, along with scientific research and testing, support the claims made by skincare products and provide valuable insights into their performance, ensuring they deliver the promised benefits without adverse effects.

These studies also help determine the safety and efficacy of ingredients and formulations with the skin.

Understanding the science behind skincare is empowering, beyond ingredient lists and concentrations, claim substantiation and clinical evidence reinforces skincare efficacy.

This knowledge paves the way for an informed and discerning approach to skincare, one that nurtures and celebrates our skin’s natural abilities.

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